Bandsaw for roughing bowls

[Bill Jobe]

What is a good solid bandsaw at a reasonable price that would serve me well with my g0766? I'm guessing the 22" swing would require a bigger saw than an 18"swing lathe?

I've been made aware by a reputable member that a bandsaw is pretty much a nessesity and I'm willing to pay a fair price to get one that will not disappoint.
Thanks.

Still no power. Going nuts waiting. My son-in-law recommended a 12ga. reel to mount to the ceiling. Amazon.com got it herein 2 days with free shipping. I think that's pretty impressive. My lathe arrived in 2 days, also. I found Grizzly also great to deal with. Very freindly folks.

[Bob Bouis]

I know you asked about bandsaws, but chainsaws are much better for preparing large blanks. Just my opinion, of course, but it's a lot easier to move a chainsaw than a 200+lb piece of wood.

[Ralph Lindberg]

I've been very happy with my Grizzly 14 inch industrial. It can swing a blank 26 inches around by 9-1/2 thick. So if your bandsaw was the power I'm going to guess it would be fine.

But just a few points to consider: If you are sawing green wood the blade is very important. I use the Highland Hardware Woodturners blade (I'd have to go look to see who they get it from). It's a 3tpi, 3/8inch wide, .032 inch wide with a high set to the teeth. Makes cutting green wood easy.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Then there is Robo's (Reed's) chain-saw chop saw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JCwwCxkROw

[Bill Jobe]

Well, Bob, that's what I was thinking. BuT after talking to a highly qualified lathe woodworker I got to thinking he was right.
I sort of see both sides. While bandsaw would do a much better job....closer to round, it would require dust removal. On the other hand a saw would not render the perfect shape without a lot of cutting, having to use it outside would reduce dust in my workshop. And be cheaper.

I'm torn between the two and would greately appreciate more opinions. Thank you.

[Bob Bouis]

The bandsaw is better for cutting small blanks that you intend to dry all the way, for spindles or small boxes. The bandsaw is for conserving wood and for making square cuts. For bowls, especially big ones, you're going to be turning them when they're green. Green wood cuts very easily. It's very easy to true up a chainsaw-cut bowl. Super duper easy.

On the other hand, green wood is very heavy. It cuts poorly on the bandsaw and is hard to maneuver. It's harder to cut it in a circle than it is to true up an octagon on the lathe. Also the biggest complication when turning green bowls is imbalance. This is especially true for natural edge and irregularly shaped blanks. You can balance any blank easily with a chainsaw, while it's next to impossible to do it with a bandsaw.

Not to mention that the chainsaw is cheaper to buy, cheaper to keep running, cuts faster, sharpens easier, and is probably safer for this application.

[Bob Bouis]

Not the best pictures, but a (partial) illustration of what I'm talking about. Can you do that with a bandsaw? Why would you even want to?

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[Bill Jobe]

Anyone use an electric chainsaw, whether it be corded or cordless?
Are the cordless saws as useful as they might seem to be or (if going electric) is corded best until competition refines the cordless. I found one that was 80 volts seems it would be handy for both truing a blank and for that often seen piece of a log along the fense line that I gotta have.
The 80 volt recharges in 30 minutes. Sure would be nice if one could charge it with the truck battery, whether it be via accessory plug or by power inverter.

[Bill Jobe]

Not the best pictures, but a (partial) illustration of what I'm talking about. Can you do that with a bandsaw? Why would you even want to?

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I don't know. I have no experience with either. That's why I'm asking those who are most likely familiar with both.

[Bill Jobe]

Well, now with 22" swing I want to go as big as I can.

[Ernest Roy]

I would suggest having both a good chainsaw and a good bandsaw at your disposal to help you prepare your turning blanks. I for one would feel hamstrung with only one of these tools.
Enjoy your new lathe

[Bob Bouis]

I have used both. The 80v chainsaw is handy (and quiet, when that matters). It's nice for making small tweaks such as to make something fit on the lathe when it wasn't quite cut right. It's actually fairly powerful and can (eventually) make just about any cut, but the battery lacks the endurance to make long rip cuts on big pieces of wood. It will literally get just one or two cuts in a big log before the juice runs out.

Overall, though electric saws generally lack the rigidity, power and durability for this kind of work. They're made for occasional, light duty use. You really want a more solid, powerful saw for cutting big pieces of wood, making straight cuts, rip cuts, etc.

[Don Frank]

I built a robohippy chainsaw chop saw and highly recommend his plans. I have a Dolmar (makita) electric chainsaw for inside work which I also recommend. I also have a 14" delta bandsaw which has 11.5" of clearance for cutting bowl blanks round. It was grossly underpowered and I stepped it up with a 3hp 220v motor from harbor freight. I have not regretted that. It will power thru a thick green blank with ease. I could not justify a high dollar bandsaw since cutting bowl blanks is the main duty of it here. So far so good.

[Don Jarvie]

As for a chainsaw a 20 inch gas model is the way to go. Electric won't have enough power. I have a 16 inch and it's a hair to small for bigger blanks.

[Bob Bouis]

Just look at those pictures and try to imagine how you would do it with a bandsaw.

You start with a log that's 24" long and 24" in diameter. You would need a chainsaw to cut it in the first place. How else do you get it? Even assuming someone just gave it to you, what do you do with it then? The log weighs 200lbs. How do you cut it on a bandsaw? Assuming you have a $5000 bandsaw that can make a 24" cut, you still have to pick it up, set it on a table where you have 10" in front of the blade, so the log wants to fall off, and push it straight through from one end to the other, keeping it perfectly straight the whole time. Then it wants to fall off the back, where, again, you don't have enough table to hold it. Basically impossible. Then you have to repeat that cut to get a flat bottom so you can cut out your circle. The piece only weighs 100lbs for this cut but it's only half a log and won't stand up on its own, so you have to hold it against the fence and push it through on edge. Also impossible. Then you have to cut it into a circle, but any blade that can cut a 24" log won't cut curves, even on a 20" blank. So you have to change the blade. And then you're left with a bowl blank that's cut from a "D" shaped log, so it's got far more material on two sides than the others. Can you cut that off with the bandsaw? Not any way that I know of. So you will have to do a lot of work to rough that out, especially since it's imbalanced and will limit the RPMs you can turn it at. The whole time you'll be showered with sap and wet shavings.

To cut large bowl blanks, the best thing is a large, professional quality gas chainsaw with at least a 24" bar.

ETA:

While that is a somewhat exaggerated example, it holds for most larger bowls. An 18" wide, 18" long cherry log weighs 137lbs according to the calculator. You just can't cut that on a bandsaw.

Also, for chainsaws, bowl cutting is not a normal application. There's basically two ways to make the "rip" cut to cut the log in half for bowl blanks. One is to cut it top down, which doesn't really work -- it's slow, hard to cut accurately, and requires a powerful saw and a super sharp chain. "Noodling" or cutting along the length of the log requires a longer bar and a larger case and more powerful motor that can push the shavings through without clogging the saw. Smaller chainsaws just don't do it well.

[Prashun Patel]

Following up on Bob's conclusion:

I would only get a bandsaw if you want to speed up the processing of 12" logs or smaller. If you want this, then I would get one with 12" resaw capacity.

[Brian Kent]

I have wrecked many bandsaw blades over the years trying to cut across a log. It rolls the log and destroys the blade. That cut needs a chainsaw. I use a gas chainsaw and 12" cut bandsaw. I agree that handling a much bigger blank on a bandsaw would be pretty challenging.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I have the 16" Grizzley with the two hp motor and really like it, but I turn quite a few bowls over 20" and don't even try to lift a 75lb block of wood onto the saw table. My Makita 14 amp chainsaw has served me well. Using a plywood template can get it pretty close to round. The small numbs turn off easily. You can trim off bark and cut some of the endgrain bark area with it mounted on the lathe. Just lock the spindle and don't let the saw hit any part of the lathe.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

What is a good solid bandsaw at a reasonable price that would serve me well with my g0766? I'm guessing the 22" swing would require a bigger saw than an 18"swing lathe?
Anyone have a used one for sale.
I've been made aware by a reputable member that a bandsaw is pretty much a nessesity and I'm willing to pay a fair price to get one that will not disappoint.
Thanks.

Still no power. Going nuts waiting. My son-in-law recommended a 12ga. reel to mount to the ceiling. Amazon.com got it herein 2 days with free shipping. I think that's pretty impressive. My lathe arrived in 2 days, also. I found Grizzly also great to deal with. Very freindly folks.

Bill a bandsaw is good for smaller bowl blanks, not for 20” blocks of wood, trying to move and rotate a large heavy and often rough piece of wood to have this thin blade cut it nice and round just won’t work, even if you have a large bandsaw with the large enough table to handle the size and weight, you can use it for smaller or thinner platter and bowl blanks, that does work with the right wet wood band for that on the saw.

I have a 14” no-name Delta clone that I use for smaller pieces of wood, like for 13 inches or smaller, and it works just fine for that, just do not try to saw through round pieces of wood, very dangerous, cut into two lengthwise first, I also have a 16” US made Poulan-Pro electric chainsaw for use in the shop, you don’t want to use a gas chainsaw inside, andI have a larger Stihl chainsaw for logging and sawing and slabbing part logs wherever I find the wood and outside my shop, another low cost chainsaw that is a backup if/when my chainsaw gets stuck (never happens :rolleyes:).

Here are a couple of pictures that show and give you a better idea of what is involved, here’s the electric Chainsaw on a block with a thick layer of shavings, as I do rough my blanks a quickly as possible and after that remove the shavings.
That is my bandsaw, I still have that saw works just fine for smaller pieces, as we were about to move to a new place things were being packed and set where there was place.
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Here I have a stack off smaller Sugar Maple blanks, ready to be sealed and rough turned as soon as possible a good chainsaw is really needed if you want to process your wood, like these Manitoba Maple logs with some burl in it, slabbing them into platter and bowl blanks.

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Yes trying to manhandle very large blanks is not easy, use the right equipment for it, chainsaws and bandsaws do not work for every size as is the case with turning tools as well.

After having turned for some 60 years I do have some experience, even if I say so myself :)

The picture with the bowls is from my previous place, I now have more bowls and a larger shop and storage.
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[Geoff Crimmins]

What is your budget for a bandsaw? I know you said a "reasonable price," but that could mean different things to different people. If you want to buy a new bandsaw, then Grizzly 17" and 19" and Rikon 18" saws seem to be popular in their price range. If you're willing to pay more for a better saw then you could consider the Grizzly 17" (g0636x) and 19" Ultimate saws, and the Italian-made Minimax or Laguna HD saws. Stihl makes the the most powerful electric chainsaw, but it costs about $500. I've heard good things about the Makita electric, and Oregon has a fairly new electric chainsaw at a very competitive price. You also might consider how large of pieces you'll actually want to turn. It's somewhat difficult to find 22" diameter pieces of wood (at least where I live), and even more difficult to figure out how to transport something that heavy to your shop. If you're turning bowls or hollow forms, rather than platters, you'll then have to figure out how to lift the blank onto your lathe. I have a friend who likes to turn large pieces, and he has a hoist over his lathe to lift the blanks onto the lathe. I'm not trying to discourage you from turning large pieces, just pointing out that there are some extra challenges in turning pieces that big.

--Geoff

[John K Jordan]

Bill,

I use both a chain saw and a band saw to prepare blanks. I process a lot of turning blanks, some for spindles, some for boxes, vessels, and bowls.

If setting up for woodturning I would get 1) a lathe, 2) some tools, 3) a sharpening system, 4) a bandsaw. In that order.

I have an 18" Rikon bandsaw and I use 1/2" x 3 TPI blades. It will cut up to 12-1/2" thick. Before I got this saw I used a 14" Delta with a riser block for the same thing, but more slowly.
I use gas powered Stihl saws away from the shop and an electric Stihl outside the shop and inside the shop.

BTW, never ever ever ever try to cut a round log section on the bandsaw positioned as if it could roll into the blade. That is, never cut this way without supporting the log section with wedges, clamps, or some other way to keep it from rolling. If it rolls into the blade you will likely destroy the blade, possibly damage the saw, and perhaps get hurt.

If the log section is less than 12" in length I stand it on end on the bandsaw table, and cut through the pith.

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If the log section is greater than 12" in length but 12" or less in diameter I draw a line down the side, set the log on its side, and rip down the middle.

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If the log section is larger in diameter I cut down through the middle with the chain saw.

Once the section is divided into two halves I put it on the bandsaw and cut it up to suit me. I can handle a piece up to 24" in diameter (12" radius.) If the half is very heavy or long I get some help to lift and help support it since I am elderly and feeble.

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Since I have learned there is more to life than big bowls I cut a lot of non-bowl blanks. These I let dry, sometimes for many years, before turning them. They make great presents for woodturner friends as well and having a huge supply on hand makes it very easy to donate a lot of wood to some turning programs we support and to our annual turning club wood auction. (I was auctioneer again this year. We brought in over $1600 for a variety of club programs.)

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If I have a bunch of blanks to make I use my WoodMizer sawmill to help. The WoodMizer is a great bandsaw but that's a different story. This friend brought a truckload of log pieces and went home to turn bowls.

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BTW, I recommend exploring all kinds of turning, not just bowls, bowls, and bigger bowls. If you get into the trap of always wanting to turn to the maximum capacity of your lathe you might find yourself soon wanting a bigger lathe. Where does it end?

JKJ

[Reed Gray]

Well, Ralph put up my Chainsaw Chopsaw video clip. Getting a big bandsaw to cut up log sections does work, but getting thing worth while will cost you. I have 2 bandsaws. A small PM with a 3/4 hp motor that only cuts 6 inches high and is perfect for rounding out blanks. My big bandsaw is a Laguna 16HD which can cut 16 inches high and has a 4.5 hp motor on it. It is great for ripping blanks with parallel sides (note, blade is 1 1/4 inch with teeth at 3/4 inch apart, which is what most of the bandsaw mills use). Since I made the chainsaw chopsaw, I seldom use the Laguna for prepping bowl blanks. Depends on where you want to spend your money. The chainsaw chopsaw cuts blanks flat enough that you can put them on the bandsaw to cut them round without worrying about it tipping and bending/breaking the blade. Some times I wish my small bandsaw had more cutting height. If you are going for 12 vertical cutting height, I would consider a 1 hp motor to be kind of minimal, but it would do the job.

robo hippy

[John K Jordan]

Well, Ralph put up my Chainsaw Chopsaw video clip. ...

Very nice design. If I turned a lot of big bowls I'd make one tomorrow.

JKJ

[Jay Mullins]

Bill, I used the gas saws for many years and cut a lot of trees. I've had a few electric saws and have found that when my chain properly sharpened I have cut air dried oak, locust and many other logs that people have told me I couldn't do with an electric saw. The secret is not to push the saw, let it cut and it will do the job. They are cheaper, much quieter and easier on my old back ( age 72 ). when they go bad, toss them. My current saw cost $29.95 on sale at Aldi's, I took the 14 inch bar off and replaced it with an 18 inch one.

Jay

[Bill Jobe]

What is your budget for a bandsaw? I know you said a "reasonable price," but that could mean different things to different people. If you want to buy a new bandsaw, then Grizzly 17" and 19" and Rikon 18" saws seem to be popular in their price range. If you're willing to pay more for a better saw then you could consider the Grizzly 17" (g0636x) and 19" Ultimate saws, and the Italian-made Minimax or Laguna HD saws. Stihl makes the the most powerful electric chainsaw, but it costs about $500. I've heard good things about the Makita electric, and Oregon has a fairly new electric chainsaw at a very competitive price. You also might consider how large of pieces you'll actually want to turn. It's somewhat difficult to find 22" diameter pieces of wood (at least where I live), and even more difficult to figure out how to transport something that heavy to your shop. If you're turning bowls or hollow forms, rather than platters, you'll then have to figure out how to lift the blank onto your lathe. I have a friend who likes to turn large pieces, and he has a hoist over his lathe to lift the blanks onto the lathe. I'm not trying to discourage you from turning large pieces, just pointing out that there are some extra challenges in turning pieces that big.

--Geoff

Yes, I've got a hoist that I've not yet hung. With 2 very weak shoulders it would be imposible to load anything requiring the 22" swing of the 0766....aside from platters. I want to make BIG bowls, kinda like Jethro on the Beverly Hillbillies would eat breakfast from.

[John K Jordan]

Bill, I used the gas saws for many years and cut a lot of trees. I've had a few electric saws and have found that when my chain properly sharpened I have cut air dried oak, locust and many other logs that people have told me I couldn't do with an electric saw....

I also find an electric a very healthy saw. Perhaps those who say it's not have not used a quality saw. Two things: One, I have an electric sharpener and keep the chain sharp. Two, I use a corded saw that plugs into the 110v AC line. Perhaps the cordless saws are different, I don't know. Mine is a Stihl, can't remember when I bought it, maybe 8-10 years ago.

Advantages to the electric: instant on/off, no mixing fuel, doesn't run out of fuel (do have to fill the oil tank), no fumes, no fire hazard indoors, light weight, never a problem starting, can use it inside the shop, very quiet. Disadvantage: needs a LONG extension cord to take it into the woods.

JKJ

[Bill Jobe]

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.
I have a small gas saw now. We'll see how things go.
John, I'm sure you're right about bowl, bowls and more bowls, but I've been using a 10" swing mini since I got into turning and I guess I just have to get the big bowl thing out of my head so I can move on. My best friend wants me to make his urn, and that's a lot of pressure at this stage. I want to learn as much as I can as soon as I can. The mini has been very restrictive so this Grizzly is like Christmas morning to a kid.
But right now I gotta get that son-in-law over here and get power to my 0766 !!!

[Bill Jobe]

Advantages to the electric: instant on/off, no mixing fuel, doesn't run out of fuel (do have to fill the oil tank), no fumes, no fire hazard indoors, light weight, never a problem starting, can use it inside the shop, very quiet. Disadvantage: needs a LONG extension cord to take it into the woods.

JKJ


John, I almost choked to death laughing at your last comment.

[Marc Sitkin]

I'd suggest that you stick to a chainsaw for greenwood. You could know off the corners as shown in the photos quite easily, without the danger of the blank rolling and possibly snapping your bandsaw blade, and maybe causing injury. Turning a big blank of green wood on a lathe of that size should go fairly quickly and easily. It's probably faster than trying to cut a perfect blank on a bandsaw.

Lyle Jameison has a good video on youtube that describes the process to make it fairly comfortable.

[Reed Gray]

Oh, to add to what I said about cutting logs up on the big bandsaw, the table on the bandsaw is always way too small. You can make jigs to keep the log upright, but you at least need an added on outfeed table. If you get a square enough cut on the round, then you can stand it on end and rip. That does make for long shavings that clod up your bandsaw. I talk about that one on my 'bandsaw dust ports do not suck' video. I used to just rip the logs down the center/pith, take them to the bandsaw and lay flat surface down so I could square up the end. Then stand it on that end and rip bowl blanks.

robo hippy

[Bill Jobe]

Anyone with firsthand experience with this saw?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200638948_200638948

[Gary Baler]

Got into this discussion too late, but here goes anyway. In regards to chain saws, I have a Stihl MS290 with a 20" bar. I also have a neighbor who not only doesn't like me, but doesn't like the sound of a chain saw. I was forced to buy an electric. A good and knowledgeable friend said to get the top end Stihl electric . I believe it is the me250. It is a great saw. A bit pricey at about $600 but cheaper than moving. I cut a lot of bigger wood with it. Am currently working with some ash from a 30" trunk. This saw cuts as strong as my gas operated, is lighter, doesn't require gas, and my neighbor still doesn't like me, but he can't complain about me any more.

[Prashun Patel]

Gary,
That is great information. I have previously had the prejudice that electrics cannot compare to gas powered.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Anyone with firsthand experience with this saw?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200638948_200638948

Not that model, but I've good experience with that brand

[Bill Blasic]

In the past I did a review of electric chainsaws. The Makita is a decent saw for $250 but the Stihl 250 electric at $500 is way more than twice the saw as the Makita. The Stihl uses the same chains as the Stihl gas saws and has more than enough power to cut anything I've tried. The Makita and others use a much smaller chain which compared to the Stihl get dull so much faster. As a test I was cutting a super hard Plum burl, two of the four only made it about 2 inches before they would not cut. The Makita made it about four inches or so before it would no longer cut. The Stihl cut completely through the whole eighteen or twenty inches of it and believe it or not I'm still cutting with that same chain. I still have the Makita and the Stihl and although the Makita is a decent saw for the money there is nothing that can compare to the Stihl.