Red Oak Bowl

[Prashun Patel]

I think I've said this before, but I love the way turned red and white oak show off the ray flecks. The circular pattern manifests in a way that is not possible with flat work.

This was finished in BLO and lacquer.

[John Keeton]

Nice form, challenging piece and well done!!

[Prashun Patel]

More and more, I find the easy part, the turning. The most challenging part is by FAR the sanding.
However, John Jordan has given me a breakthrough: The card scraper. I'll post pix later, but I have even found an easy way to sharpen them.

Normal card scrapers will work, but it's even easier to use an old hand saw blade. I used a 'Sharksaw' blade which is pretty flexible. I used tin snips to rough out a shape, then used the bench grinder to shape and file the edge. I do not roll a burr with a burnisher, or polish the edge; I use the same cbn wheel that I sharpen my turning tools on. This creates enough of an edge to last for a minute or two on the lathe. Next, I put the lathe on reverse, remove the tool rest, and place the edge on the top of the turning. With a little practice, you can get great, wispy shavings, which remove tearout, and smooth undulations in the surface. With the lathe spinning in reverse, there is no risk of the tool being caught and thrown at you. Scrapers are used at a raking angle, so there is no risk of a catch. When it gets dull, just touch it up on the grinder again.

I HAVE used them on the inside of the bowl, but I can't recommend that for safety reasons.

[Roger Chandler]

Nice work Prashun! The growth rings almost give it a spiral effect on the sides. Asthetically speaking, I think it would benefit from being a bit thinner.....say no more than 3/8" thick on the walls. That is almost a calabash form......but the inside walls do not parallel the outside walls. Nice form as it is, and I agree with your medullary ray fleck comment.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, Roger. In general I aim for thinner, consistent walls. However, I've made this particular type of form a couple times now. I like the heft and weight.

I think my eye is different from others when it comes to turned forms. I don't always find thinner forms appropriate or pleasing, and I don't always find the need for the inside and outside to follow the exact same curve.

last, I LOVE FEET!

[Adam Petersen]

Very nice Prashun. I really like the form and I personally like the thickness of the walls. To each their own right? I think it gives it a weight that conveys the oak well. I love the patterns the wood shows. I'm very interested in the scraping technique you speak of. Looking forward to that post.

[Prashun Patel]

Here's a sycamore platter I'm working on. The scraper works best when it makes minimal contact with the surface along it's length. This can be achieved by using a convex scraper, flexing the blade, or positioning it at a skew angle to the surface. You have to play with the presentation angle to get it to cut.

I didn't get the wispiest of shavings on this one, so it's not the best example. But you get the idea.

The nice thing about this is that it works well when finish turning the outside, if there has been slight movement. Whereas a gouge can skip and cause vibration, the scraper follows (better) those undulations because you are not referencing off the steady rest.

[Dave Fritz]

Darn I love that. Love oak, love the form and attention to detail and IMO a thin oak form is an oxymoron.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Love the form! I have no idea what kind of steel the saw blade is made out of but am concerned that you might ruin your CBN wheel - which they warn to use only on HSS.

[Prashun Patel]

I didn't realize that, Steve. I am using an old saw blade. I will use a mill file or my other wheels on the scraper. Thanks.

[Steve Schlumpf]

You bet! Thanks for the scraper images. I have yet to try using a handheld for finishing a form and what you showed sure gives some good results. Should be just the ticket on some of my larger forms - anything that can save sanding time is a GREAT idea!