Table saw safety

[Tom Andersen]

Hi guys,

Before using your table saw to rip or cross-cut, most of us inspect the wood for faults that potentially could be risky. What do you look for?

Here's what I can think of:

*Boards warped more than 1/4" (not good for ripping)
*Cupped boards (to be turned downwards)
*Boards that have split, with a potential for wedging a loose piece on the back of the circular blade
*Boards that are not straight on the fence side

What have I forgotten?

I never do free-hand ripping without the fence. How about you guys?

Regards
Tom

[Gerry Rhodes]

"I never do free-hand ripping without the fence. How about you guys?"

Never.

[Richard Wolf]

Make sure you are not cutting into a loose knot. Got me twice. I'm a slow learner.

Richard

[Steve Clardy]

Watch for irregular grain that can pinch a sawblade. Use a splitter.
I use Micro-jigs splitters.
I just installed the double splitter yesterday. Very nice. My compliments go to Henry from Micro-jig.
I usually run a single splitter, but since most of my sawing is 1" or below in thickness, I'm going to run the double splitter as much as I can.

Steve

[Andrew Ault]

Steve,

What is the double splitter?

I have one of their splitters and I like it.

Also, I would not like to lose my Grr-rippers. I just bought a second one on sale at Rockler because I'm tired of using the one I have in one hand and "something else" in the other. I appreciate the way it maintains an open kerf, controls the cut-off and keeps my hands the heck away from spinning carbide. So, Tom, I guess I would say that one way to make using the tablesaw safer is to use these.

- Andy

[Steve Clardy]

Steve,

What is the double splitter?

I have one of their splitters and I like it.

Also, I would not like to lose my Grr-rippers. I just bought a second one on sale at Rockler because I'm tired of using the one I have in one hand and "something else" in the other. I appreciate the way it maintains an open kerf, controls the cut-off and keeps my hands the heck away from spinning carbide. So, Tom, I guess I would say that one way to make using the tablesaw safer is to use these.

- Andy

Heres pic of it installed.

It really helps when end cutting plywood.





http://www.microjig.com/

[Andrew Ault]

Some rules I follow when using the tablesaw:

The blade must be sharp and clean.
The saw must be aligned.
Always maintain control. Do not execute a cut without fully understanding it and planning the operation. Use a good stance and think through what could go wrong.
Do not use the fence during crosscut operations without a stop block.
Push the workpiece past the blade.
Wear eye protection.
When it is safer, use a device such as a push stick to move the workpiece through the cut. For me, this often means a Grr-ripper.
When practical, use featherboards. For me, this usually means Grip Tite magnetic feather boards.
Use a splitter or riving knife.What else should be on that list?

One thing I'm going to do in the next month is make a folding outfeed table for my saw. I think that this will improve the safety of cuts for me.

[Dino Makropoulos]

What else should be on that list? .

Hmm.: :confused:

[Ian Barley]

... When it is safer, use a device such as a push stick to move the workpiece through the cut. For me, this often means a Grr-ripper....
What else should be on that list?


As I see it this line should read

It is safer to use a device such as a push stick....... Always!!

[Scott Parks]

Hmm.: :confused:

EZ?:confused::D

[Dino Makropoulos]

EZ?:confused::D

That was the last thing...:rolleyes:
We need to finish the list first.
No more this vs that for me anymore.
Just the complete list. :D

[Dino Makropoulos]

As I see it this line should read

It is safer to use a device such as a push stick....... Always!!

Ian.
I think Andrew is right here.
Some times, slowing down to get the push stick can be more dangerous than
not using the push stick at all.

The best way is to grab the push stick before you start cutting.
But some time is dangerous to hold the push stick and try to cut the wood until you can use it.
And you better make sure you don't apply to much pressure on the push stick. You know what may happen if the push stick brakes or if the blade grabs the push stick.
I think is better to use a slider as much as you can.
Or at least use a feeder. I run a factory and cabinet shop years ago.
I don't remember having any tool without a feeder or without a slider.
The most dangerous tool at the factory was my small portable table saw.

....I'm getting better on spelling. "no errors found" Hmm:eek:
...easy guys.;)

[Dino Makropoulos]

Hi guys,

Before using your table saw to rip or cross-cut, most of us inspect the wood for faults that potentially could be risky. What do you look for?

Here's what I can think of:

*Boards warped more than 1/4" (not good for ripping)
*Cupped boards (to be turned downwards)
*Boards that have split, with a potential for wedging a loose piece on the back of the circular blade
*Boards that are not straight on the fence side

What have I forgotten?

I never do free-hand ripping without the fence. How about you guys?

Regards
Tom

The use of a zero clearance throat plate.
anti-kickback pawls.
and don't forget to...toe out your fence.

This is from Charles at Freud.
""This is logic behind why I recommend toeing the fence. I don't espouse "angling" the fence, merely allowing for variance by setting for a toe out that is equal to half of the tolerance you are able to hold. This will decrease the odds of having a toed in fence which we all agree is bad."

Charles M
Freud America, Inc."

[Scott Donley]

How about, don't set the beer can on the table, and don't open it till your done.

[Andrew Ault]

As I see it this line should read

It is safer to use a device such as a push stick....... Always!!

You may be right. I do not always use a pushstick. Sometimes when cutting panels I do not as my hands are nowhere near the blade. Usually, though, I do.

[Tom Andersen]

Ian.
I don't remember having any tool without a feeder or without a slider.



Sorry for my ignorance. What's a feeder and what's a slider?

If a feeder is a sacrifice board to get the board you are ripping through the machine, how do you then feed the feeder?

What do you guys think of adding a shorter wooden fence on the side of the real fence and ending near the middle of the saw blade? That way, no pinching can take place?

[Andrew Ault]

Hmm.: :confused:
You're killin' me, Dino. :)


The use of a zero clearance throat plate.
anti-kickback pawls.
and don't forget to...toe out your fence.
I almost always use a zero-clearance throat plate. I've always thought of it as a quality of cut issue, but I can see the safety value since small pieces of wood would not get trapped.

I can't stand using the anti-kick pawls. I guess it is safer, but they get in the way for me and prevent the use of the Grr-ripper. When growing up, that device was always in a pile of sawdust under the saw. I think what I really don't like is the blade cover that comes with the standard anti-kickback device. I have no idea how to work around that thing. Clearly, I am out of step on this.

Toeing the fence out slightly is sound. Of course, it cannot be toed in at all, so ensuring that in operation the tolerance of the fence never allows it to be toed in during operation...very important.


How about, don't set the beer can on the table, and don't open it till your done.
For sure. I went shooting with friends Saturday and we stopped for cold refreshment afterwards. I knew, as soon as I tasted that fine micro beer, that I would not be doing any woodwork that day.:(

[Andrew Ault]

What's a feeder and what's a slider?

I think this is a reference to a power feeder - a device with a motor that pushes stock throught the cut. A slider is like on high-end euro saws - a sliding table.


What do you guys think of adding a shorter wooden fence on the side of the real fence and ending near the middle of the saw blade? That way, no pinching can take place?

If I understand what you mean, I think that even with a shortened fence, if it were toed in, the stock would still be forced into the back of the blade. I think that it is still important to ensure that the fence geometry is correct.

- Andy

[Ian Barley]

...And you better make sure you don't apply to much pressure on the push stick. You know what may happen if the push stick brakes or if the blade grabs the push stick.
Dino - All my push sticks are 3/4" Oak so not particularly prone to snapping and are also configured such that the force which I am applying takes a path that , if suddenly extended, would pass over the blade. And of course because my blade is sharp and clean I avoid having to apply excessive force anyway.


I think is better to use a slider as much as you can.
Or at least use a feeder. I run a factory...
I agree it is better to use a $X000 slider or a $X00 feeder but they cost more than a $0 pushstick.

In the meantime, on the basis that most of the guys here are not running factories, the habitual use of a pushstick seems to me to be a significant safety benefit. I agree that there are some occasions where it is not necessary but there are almost none where it is detrimental.

[Dino Makropoulos]

In the meantime, on the basis that most of the guys here are not running factories, the habitual use of a pushstick seems to me to be a significant safety benefit. I agree that there are some occasions where it is not necessary but there are almost none where it is detrimental.

Yes. I agree with you about the use of the push stick.
The right push stick with the right pressure and knowing that all other (above) safety facts are in place.

And here is the most important item on the list.
A kill switch.
Most of the power tool accidents are from (power) kids playing with...power tools.

Keep the list going.

[Byron Trantham]

About a year ago I got "push stick 101" shoved down my throat! I hadn't been using them all that much. What did it cost me; two digits that don't work as well as they used to. I was lucky both cuts were relatively minor but did cause some permanent damage to my thumb and index finger! Both cuts could have been avoided by using a push stick. I now have one glued to my hand!:D I also now use a splitter - religiously! Oh and feather boards have their place as well. I have two of the magnetic ones and though I hate setting them up [the magnets really hold], I use them more now and have found the effort worth it.

IMHO, YOU are the best safety device going! No aid will keep you from getting hurt if you are not paying attention. About a month ago I experienced my first kick back cutting a 30" square piece of 1/4" plywood! I wasn't paying attention to the cut and the plywood caught the blade and it was sent back at blinding speed and hit the top of my left hand. The impact was severe enough to knock my watch off and make a shallow cut on the top of my wrist. Not much damage again, mostly bruised. The next day I was black an blue from my elbow to my finger tips! This could have been avoided by watching more closely what I was doing.