Just a Pine Bedside table project

[steven c newman]

Well, short vacation from projects came to an end. Single Brain Cell Sketch Up has come up with a plan! Right now, there is a folding TV Tray beside MY side of the bed......needs to be gotten rid of. Maybe build a Shaker STYLE table?

Tastes would be for a hardwood, like Oak, Walnut, or Cherry......Budget say...Pine. Those that follow along with this project are free to use whatever lumber they want.

Went to the Blue Borg today, spent my "limit" of $20 and change in the pocket. A 1 x 4 x 8', a 1x 8 x 8', and a 2 x 4 x 8'.......tried to get the best of the racks.....took awhile. Military ID got me a 10% discount, too!


Took a bit of work to get 8' long items down the steps into the Dungeon Shop.....just making the three turns from the back door to the basement door took some doing. ( Just can't sit still, when there's lumber to be cut...)

Laid the 1 x8 on the bench, and a nearby bench.....not much room down here. Laid out for a few 27" long pieces. Had a gap between a couple of them, nasty area full of knots. A Skil 6-1/2" circular saw did the cuts....my crosscut handsaw is out for a sharpening. Laid the three planks onto the bench.....a bit too wide, as I needed just 17" in width......resawed one of the planks, mainly to get rid of a couple bad knots, anyway.....Placed that into the leg vise..
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And ran the jointer along both edges. Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7. Made a lot of nice curlies..
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Since I was "running the jointer", might as well do the two wide bodies, too...
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laid them all out again, on a couple pipe clamps...17" wide. Just about what I needed.

Hate pipe clamps, they roll over when you don't want them to, boards do not slide well on the pipes. One was having "issues" and needed a pair of visegrips to keep the end from just sliding away...block of wood and a mallet to flatten things down onto the clamps, long enough to get the middle clamp in place..
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Had to find enough room to put all of this together.....left side is in the air, held up by a block in front, and the mitre box station in the rear.

Will let this mess sit overnight.....sitting here peeling dried glue off of me. Legs for this table are to be tapered....best way to do that is with a plane, or two...anyone want to try their hand? I need to resaw the leg blanks down, first. Tapers are on the two inside faces of the legs. Aprons? I have that 1 x 4 for those....with enough left over for MAYBE a narrow drawer? Supposed to be fun....we'll see. Stay tuned to this..Batty Channel:eek:

[steven c newman]

Ok, this might take more than one reply, here goes..
Got the blank for the top out of the clamps this afternoon.....decided to trim the ends square, for now. Crosscut saw is still out being sharpened, something else was needed
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Set up a straight edge. marked a pair of lines, one was the cut line, the other was set back to account for the distance between the saw blade, and the saw's foot. Ran the saw..
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Hey, that saw IS a vintage one. Set up and repeat for the other end.
Next, a long plane was run around, to level the top a bit..
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A Type 10 Stanley #6c. Worked on the top's faces, trying to decide which will show. Got out a smooth plane for a bit of detail work..
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Millers Falls No. 9.....had a slight ridge in that spot....had. Set this top aside, will need to plane it again..later.
Set up the mitre box
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I had a 2 x 4 to cut into leg blanks....
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The saw itself was one I just had sharpened up. Nice smooth cuts..

Will stop here, and carry on in the next reply....

[steven c newman]

As there is a lot more that got done today....

Set up the resaw jig on the bandsaw ( I am not hand ripping all of these) Ran three blanks through..
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Blanks are 25" long, and about 1-1/2" square..now. I ripped three blanks down into legs,,, because I wanted an extra just in case an "AH....S..." should happen. I picked the four best ones..
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Motley looking bunch? I set them up with the knotty ends as the tops of the legs, leaving clear lumber from there down A square made a line across all four at the same time, with the ends flush.
Next, I set up to taper one side of a leg. Down at the foot end, I made for a 3/4" wide toe. Drew a straight line from there up to the "Knotty Line"
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Everything to the right of that line will be leaving..
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A #5 cambered jack plane did the rough work, working from the toe back towards the top line. ( line is on the bench side, needed to make sure I had enough clearance)
Once I got as close to the line all the way along it, I switched to a longer plane....
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Full length strokes, until the line was gone, and a full shaving appeared. Rotate the blank, remark a new line, repeat the above steps. That little block on the side of the bench is to support the far end of the blank..
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Hopefully, I get a leg like this each time. Doesn't take all that long, either. I also have to keep track of which sides get tapered, as they also will get a mortise for the aprons.
Monday in the Shop? Just can't resist...futile, isn't?
Stay tuned, I might get a table made yet. Just a change of pace from making boxes...

[steven c newman]

Well, maybe after Lunch has had a chance to settle in.....I might get to the shop. There will be at least one drawer. Trying to decide IF it will be on the end, or the side. Aprons may get widened to more than the 3-1/2" ones I have now. Maybe involving a glue up? Will have to measure how long the top's square section is.

There is NO written plan involved here, nothing on paper even......yet. Not sure about adding a breadboard edge......maybe, maybe not? Won't be a very wide one, IF I do them.....~1" wide?

This might take longer than a week to build, hope I don't bore anybody....

[daryl moses]

Not bored at all Steven, I enjoy all of your builds and look forward to more.

[steven c newman]

Well, the Boss decided she wanted to go to Menards today, to price a few items she wants.....honey-do things...while there, I picked out a couple 1 x 6 x 6'....same price as a 12'er just easier to carry in the van...

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There is a pair of 1 x 6 x 6' standing up back there.
More plane work, as I had the other three legs to taper....made a BIG mess of shavings..
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Igor being on "Vacay" I guess I'll sweep this up. The fourth leg's tapers needed to be checked against the other three leg's tapers.....hate when I taper the wrong faces of a leg....finally got all four legs done, taper wise...
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Set them on the bench, with that scrap holding things up. All tapers are to the inside.
Used the #358 Mitre Box to cut some aprons..
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The shorter one will be the end, and there are two long aprons, a second "short apron" will be a drawer front.
Debating on adding a narrow (1"?) bread board edge to the top. Top is 3/4" x 17" x 26-1/4" .

Maybe tomorrow, I can start the mortise and tenon stuff....stay tuned..

[steven c newman]

Tried to work on the tenons today, as I usually do those first. easier to chop out a matching mortise that way.

5-1/2" wide apron is a bit too wide for a tenon
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Came in about 3/4" from each edge..
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And thought about using the Wards 78 to cut the tenons..
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For some reason, it would NOT hold settings, depth stop and fence wanted to move. Wound up setting the Stanley #358 Mitre Box up, with depth stops..after a complete fail by the handsaw/ shoulder plane route....
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Hungry plane, kept cutting too deep. Had to recut a new Long Side Apron,, as the tenon went way too thin. Not a total loss, I can recycle that into the drawer front..
Wanted a little extra to the bottom edges of the aprons
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Since the bead cutter was still in the Stanley 45,,,I had to reset the fence. Used the set of holes so the fence was below the cutter, and set it as close to the cutter as I could.
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Had to keep dragging all of these shavings out....got a nice bead right at the bottom edge
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This is on the recut apron. Before the tenon was done. If I get a tear out, the cut off tenon will remove it.
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Set out one apron and one leg. The apron to lay out for a matching mortise.
Next chapter, coming up....stay tuned

[steven c newman]

Ok, Mortises for that apron. Nice part about these tapered legs, the side opposite from a mortise is straight, makes things easier to clamp down to the bench

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Got out a few of the usual suspects, and laid out where to chop..
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Tarced from the tenon that will go here. Since this is the "1st" mortise I am doing, marked it as #1, and made a mark on the "inside" of the apron, to show which end goes here.
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Mortise chisel ( New Haven Edge Tool Co. 1/4") a wide paring chisel, and that home made "gooseneck" 1/4" chisel to clean out the bottom. Dry fit, to see how much deeper to chop.

Finally got that to match up. Got out the next leg, and repeat the Mortise work. When #2 was done, decided to just go ahead and glue it up..
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3 pipe clamps.....will let this set a while, then I can set it aside, and work on the other assembly.

Later, I can figure out which end will get a drawer, and which will get the apron. No rush....stay tuned

[Scott Archi]

Steven these threads are helpful to those will minimal experience. Thank you for sharing.

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

+1 to what Scott and Daryl have written.

Thanks,

Stew

[steven c newman]

And thank you, Gentlemen

Ok, snuck back down to the shop a bit ago.....removed the clamps. The thought WAS to do only that, and go back upstairs.....didn't work out that way

By the time I had headed back up the steps:

I had laid out and chopped Mortise #3 and fitted the apron to it.

Before that, I had run the Stanley 45 bead cutter a bit more, once I figured a way to do these things..
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Took a couple tries....outside corners of each leg will get this detail
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goes well with the bead along the apron.
I also got mortise #4 laid out, but that was it for the night
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Also, a better look at the "Usual Suspects"
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The 1" wide chisel is back there, somewhere.
When I was talking about setting the depth stops on the 358 Mitre Box?
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That little brass "collar" sets how far down the guides can go...a look at the mitre box?
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The saw had just got back from the sharpening service....not a bad "little" saw...

Stay tuned...

[steven c newman]

Have errands to run this morning.....might find a wee bit of time later today, to play in the shop some more. Need to work out how the drawer will fit, and build the runners for it. Will try to split/saw/whatever a top edge and a bottom edge from the drawer's front. maybe a hidden compartment at the back of the drawer?

No plans, all in a Single Brain Cell Sketch Up I use......maybe I might jot a set of figures down, on a scrap of paper....just having fun, playing in my shop..

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Very cool. I love the bead. I just got the Veritas small plow and am anxious for my next project that can use a bead. I've been thinking the Roubo bench build may see some beads on the legs. (yes, it's still happening- been stagnant between my many travels and being father to a just-turned-4-year-old.)

Since I built a boat with fir, I have really fallen in love with pine. I used to hate the stuff, mainly because my experience with pine before that was home depot construction grade stuff, and I foolishly thought that was what all pine looked like!

[george wilson]

I might mention,possibly for future work,for those who care,in the 18th. C.,beads on furniture had sharp bottomed beads. The flat bottomed ones came in the 19th. C..

It is possible that flat bottom beads were used on architecture in the 18th. C., such as on the bottom edge of siding. We don't really know about that application,as far as I know.

We used to just grind the flat off of 19th. C. plane blades,leaving a sharp edge in the bead if we wanted to make authentic beads on things we made,such as music stands,etc..

[steven c newman]

Ok, let's stop right here for a moment.......

This little Project is to sit right beside MY side of the bed. Never meant to be a Museum Piece, or High Style Art works. It is just a table, folks. I am building this on a tight, SMALL budget.....and NOT trying to duplicate 18th century table designs. It MIGHT be in the Shaker STYLE, with touches I added. Not a direct copy. Weren't the Shakers in the 19th Century?

It will get a coat or two of the Infamous Witch's Brew, as that will get close to a "Pumpkin Pine" flavour that matches most of the rest of the house's tables.

There will be a drawer on one end, nothing fancy, just a box that slides in and out. Not sure what knob it will have, yet.

Now, IF anyone wants to build along and try a table like this, fine. They can even use what ever wood they chose.

Just a simple, little bedside table.....might get it done by Easter, maybe....

[george wilson]

I just gave you a bit of information that you might remember if you choose someday to make an authentic piece. Or if others who read this might want to.

Curious how you reject every bit of help anyone tries to offer you. But you are not the only one on this forum. Someone else may wnt to use the bit of info on a project in the future.

[Pat Barry]

I just gave you a bit of information that you might remember if you choose someday to make an authentic piece. Or if others who read this might want to.

Curious how you reject every bit of help anyone tries to offer you. But you are not the only one on this forum. Someone else may wnt to use the bit of info on a project in the future.
What do you mean "choose someday to make an authentic piece"? What in gods name isn't authentic about steven's project? One thing that can be learned is that unsolicited advice is really never welcome. I used to know someone who thought he was an authority and took it upon himself to give a lot of unsolicited advice - he was never respected.

[steven c newman]

Well, got a bad burger at Burger King today, paying the price. Kind of cuts into my shop time...
Decided to try out a larger Mortise chisel, as the mortise was 3/8" wide..
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On the right, a nice BIG Witherby 3/8" mortise chisel...didn't do too badly...Had another knot to chop through about halfway down... Finally got the tenon to fit, decided to glue Side #2 up..
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And set it way out of the way, until tomorrow. laid out for the back/non-drawer end on Side #1, after deciding which end to put it on. Then a bit of work for a drawer front..
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Crosscut to length to match the other end piece, then..
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Bandsaw to rip these two sections. And there is the drawer front. Top rail will get a dovetail, the bottom rail a tenon...
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Then plane away the saw marks from the bandsaw. I also planed the front to do the same..
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Millers Falls No.11 seemed about the right size for the job....then some layout work, again..
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Then about the third trip to the bathroom, decided that was quite enough for one day.
Teaser?
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That wide tail will do to cover the bottom's groove, don't want the groove to show.

Maybe tomorrow, IF I get to feeling better, and less GROUCHY, I might play around in the shop a bit longer...Stay tuned...

[James Pallas]

Nice going Steven. I like the bead on the legs.
Jim

[steven c newman]

Mail arrived a bit ago..package for the Stanley #45! The bolt and the spur has arrived! may go and install it after a bit.

Errands to run today.....might even go and doing some "trading" at a place.....will report back what I found.....

Hope a Mr. Gumption waits a while, before he finds me.....places to go, people to see, things to do.....

Need to bead the other two legs, before I can change out the cutter.....then drawer bottom grooves can be cut....we'll see how the rest of the day goes..

[george wilson]

Pat,I'm sorry that you don't know what an authentic piece is. I meant an authentic 18th. C. piece. I mentioned that in the original post I made about beading. I suppose that you do not consider me an authority after 40 years in a large museum. I learned a huge amount of information while there.

I certainly do not mind getting unsolicited advise MYSELF, as long as it is CORRECT advice. That is how you advance your work.Ignore and dismiss everything you are offered, and you can work for 50 years and be no better than when you started.

I was given unsolicited advice that it is correct practice to leave a space behind commas. I have used that bit of advice. I never took typing in school myself. That's one instance when I have taken correct advice. There are many others.


However do not worry your head. I will not waste another word giving Newman or you any more advise, requested or not. It has just been a waste of time on my part.

[steven c newman]

Will you two find a room somewhere...

Trading has been done, straight up trade, no cash involved. A Craftsman #4( with the grooved sides) and a BLUE Made in England #4 by Stanley...were traded off for these two #4 sized planes..
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The Stanley Made in England is now a #4c, and is black in colour, the "other" plane is a Millers Falls No. 9 Might take a day to rehab both of these?

[Phil Mueller]

George, I took your comment as insight...a point of interest, and I appreciate it.

By the way, leave one space after a comma, two spaces after a period (or any other end of sentence punctuation mark - !?"). Journalism major :rolleyes:

[Pat Barry]

Pat,I'm sorry that you don't know what an authentic piece is. I meant an authentic 18th. C. piece. I mentioned that in the original post I made about beading. I suppose that you do not consider me an authority after 40 years in a large museum. I learned a huge amount of information while there.

I certainly do not mind getting unsolicited advise MYSELF, as long as it is CORRECT advice. That is how you advance your work.Ignore and dismiss everything you are offered, and you can work for 50 years and be no better than when you started.

I was given unsolicited advice that it is correct practice to leave a space behind commas. I have used that bit of advice. I never took typing in school myself. That's one instance when I have taken correct advice. There are many others.


However do not worry your head. I will not waste another word giving Newman or you any more advise, requested or not. It has just been a waste of time on my part.
Thank you.

[george wilson]

Thanks,Phil.

[steven c newman]

Spent a bit of time cleaning the planes up, might do a different post about that...

Side #2 is out of the clamps, and the corner bead ran to match those on side #1 Stacked aside

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Ok, after that last attempt, I tried again on half blind dovetails
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Did these first.....PITA to do, anyway. Some of the sockets weren't deep enough, worked on that as i fitted the sides
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Now, I have done these before, but always with a jig and a corded router.....never have done these by hand, until this project

Got ( somehow) both sides fitted to the drawer front. Then sized a couple "backs"
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Sides are18" long, the one "Back" will be at 12" from the front, and a second "Back" will be out at the end. Drawer bottom will got the full length. To access this hidden compartment, you'll have to slide the drawer all the way out.
Teaser on the planes..
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Stanley "Made in England" #4c, Japanning is black. Lateral lever does have "STANLEY" stamped into it
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Millers Falls No. 9 Might be a Type 3?
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Haven't started on the irons, chipbreakers, or the soles....yet. maybe after this table is done....
BTW: that Price tag that was on the Stanley? $45....sheesh. Maybe for the Millers Falls, but.....

Need to switch out the cutters on the Stanley #45, need drawer bottom grooves milled, and a few rebates/dados made. maybe sometime later next week, I might get to assemble the entire table, and build the runners for the drawer to slide on.

Just another day in the Dungeon Shop..stay tuned for more woodworking stuff...

[steven c newman]

Was told I HAD to wake up early this morning ( BEFORE 9 am!) only to find out it was an April Fools thingy.....

Debating this morning.....rehab two planes, or....build a drawer? IF Andrew shows up today, I may have to fix a chair.....

Research at the Millers Falls Home Page/ type study: The No.9 I traded a Craftsman #4 for? Type 4. !955 era. The Craftsman?
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Except for the last one had a gray PAINTED Lever cap, to go along with that groove sides feature...
Fair trade, right?

Haven't research the Stanley "Made in Englad" #4c ..yet. I could look up the model number cast behind the frog, and see how old it is. Might be older than the Blue one I traded off for it...
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Replacement adjuster wheel, oEM was an ugly plastic one
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And, while the new #4c has Black Japanning, the old #4 was a
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Bright BLUE. Again..fair trade?
So, what to do for today......rehab, do something "Groovy" or maybe wait on a chair to show up.....

[steven c newman]

Ok, back to woodworking (already have one of the new planes rehabbed..) so, where was I..
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Think I left off here, with both sides done, including the beads on the legs. So, today was both a rehab a plane day and a drawer build day.....leave the plane thing for somewhere else..
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Reset the Stanley 45 to plough a few grooves..
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Ran all three grooves, and then sized the two drawer backs to fit. Height wise, I needed to rip a little off the top..
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Then plane the saw marks off..
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I could also cut a piece of plywood to make a drawer bottom.....had to use that same plane to joint a couple ragged edges on the plywood.
Time to glue the drawer up?
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Not exactly...needed a dado 12" from the front, and a rebate out on the end. Kind of hard to fence the 45. Used the 358 Mitre box to cut the sides of the dados and rebates. A bit of chisel work to get below the surface far enough for the 45 to follow across....once you get a little into the wood, the 45 will just follow that wall..
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Not too bad? Ok, both drawer sides are done, NOW I can glue this thing up..
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Sitting there, in the forest of clamps, is a drawer with a secret...

[steven c newman]

Okay, the Stanley, Made In England No. 4c..aka G12-004 is about ready for prime time
Bottom is cleaned up
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One side was very rough..
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About as good as I can get it.....lever cap had rust measels, had to remove the plated nickle as the rust was everywhere under it..had to refill the logo
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I let the red enamel cure a day, come back and polish it off the "STANLEY" so it will show...
Oh, about that drawer's secret

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If you pull the drawer out the "normal" 12" length it looks like a normal drawer. You'd have to pull the drawer all the way out, to access the hidden compartment in the back...
Letting the drawer set overnight. maybe take the clamps off in the morning? Debating about a knob for the drawer.....will come up with something later....

Once I can clear the bench off, I can chop a few more mortises, and two dovetail sockets. need to get the sides and ends joined up, so I can build the drawer runners. There will be a kicker to keep the drawer from tipping down. a corner blocks to attach the top with. getting about halfway to the finish line, now....stay tuned.

Should I start a different thread about those two "new" handplanes?
Still need to work on the Type 4 Millers Falls No. 9.....sometime..

[steven c newman]

Got the second plane done, and a bit of woodworking done as well...
Had to take the drawer out of the clamps this morning. Then I cleaned things up....the front was bowed a bit, now it is flat.
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Maybe, if I keep practizing on these things, I might get good at them...
Set the drawer aside. Had mortises to chop...a pair of long ones the house the back end of the base..
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And the other long mortise at least had a smaller knot.
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Dry fitted..
Had a pair of smaller mortises too..
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To house the lower rail under the drawer
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Dry fit. This one was easier, then the second little mortise..
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Yep, another knot. These four mortises were then test fitted up..
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Which leaves the two "fancy" ones at the top of the front legs...stay tuned..BRB

[steven c newman]

Ok, I'm baaaack! Laid out for a fancy joint at the top of the front legs..
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So, another "1/2 blind" dovetail? Getting better at these, and used a saw, too
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Then a couple chisels to remove the waste in the socket. Couple of test fits for each end of the top rail..
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Ah one and ah
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Knob to the left? I found that dog holes are great for keeping chisels from rolling off the bench. That one is the home-made Gooseneck chisel.

decided to at least try to dry fit the entire mess, just to see how much of a b..ear this is going to be during a glue up..
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yep, going to be a bear to clamp. and will need a diagonal one to pull things into square, if need be..

I also tried the drawer in it's opening,,,it fits. Will have to raise the runners the drawer will slide on a little bit, to even the gaps all around. It will also prevent wear and tear on the bottom rail of the opening.

So, if you hear enough cussing going on to make a Marine blush, you'll know a glue up is in the works....stay tuned..
Oh BTW..that plane I rehabbed this morning?
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Even made shavings..
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Millers Fall No.9, Type 4...last of the "Good" ones....

[steven c newman]

Yes, there was a lot of cussing going on in the shop....Glue and clamps..
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But...the diagonals match! tried the drawer...NOPE! Hmmmm, Jumbo Jack to plane the sides of the drawer...and I had to countersink the screws a bit further down....drawer finally slid right in.
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Maybe tomorrow, I can cobble some corner blocks up.....set into dovetails into the tops of the aprons.....More 1/2 blind dovetail work...
I think I have had quite enough fun, for one day...:rolleyes:

[steven c newman]

Might wander down to the shop today, and maybe remove the clamps? Rethinking the corner blocks, maybe just glue and screws....KISS sort of thing..

The piece of pine I WAS going to use as a breadboard edge...warpped.....need to cut another, and install it. Maybe I can work on the top, today.....normally, shop is closed on Mondays....we'll see.

[James Pallas]

I still like the beads. A bit jealous tho, you have a better shop broom then I do. The tools look about the same.:)
Jim

[steven c newman]

Happen to have a Shop Cat to keep pests out of the shop...as well..

Ok, base is out of the clamps, corner blocks and a kicker installed..
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Guides, runners and a stop block added to the insides for the drawer..
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Corner blocks have been drilled for slots
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Corners of the top have been rounded...
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The square, non-beaded corners of the legs have been rounded with a spokeshave
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Sat the top onto the bench, "good" side down. Set a "reveal" all around of 1-1/8" from the edge of the top, to the aprons
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Drawer front needed planed flat..
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And a home made knob was installed..
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Sooo, stay tuned, have a little bit more to show off..

[steven c newman]

Top is secured with screws, no glue
357567Doesn't matter with the center line screws, but the screws in the corner blocks need to allow the top to move.
While the table was on the bench, I got out the brush and can for the Infamous Witch's Brew..
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first coat on the undersides, the legs, and the aprons...left the edges alone, as I needed a way to set this up on it's feet..
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Took this picture, because IF I back up to show the entire table, the glare wipes out the top..
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I think this will just have to do...for now. at least until the "Brew" cures/dries....and I thought the shop was closed for the day....:rolleyes:

[James Pallas]

Got it figured out. Shop closed on Monday, Steven arises at 12:01 AM and gets after it. Nice work.
Jim

[steven c newman]

Now the shop can sit, while I wait on the finish to dry...time to see what other projects I can attempt to do...Single Brain Cell Sketch Up will have to be brought back on....

[steven c newman]

Went out and bought a small can of Poly Gloss for the table, and a pair of brushes. Maybe tomorrow, I can try a coat of the Poly.....

Have a little bit leftover from this build. Wood cost was just under $30. Finish bought today was almost $7......not cheap, just Frugal. I had priced some White Oak.....about 3x what the "White wood" cost me...ouch! 4/4 x 8" x 8' = $29.00 and change....I'd have needed 3 of them. Plus some Pine or Poplar for the inside stuff...

[Stew Denton]

Steven,

Nicely done. Looking forward to see the final product after the poly is on it.

Stew

[Randal Blair]

I've already picked up some great tips in this thread - nice work! And good detailed pics.
consider me subscribed to this one.

[steven c newman]

Waiting on the second coat of Poly Gloss to dry , right now.....may post a finished Project photo or two here.....

[steven c newman]

Second coat has dried, and been rubbed down. Took the table outside, to get a bit better lighting..
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Stupid tree shadows....grr
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Afraid these aren't angled dovetails, just simple halfblind by hand dovetails..
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Front view
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Side view, and..
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The end that will go up against the bedroom wall...
Been a fun little project...

[Michael J Evans]

Looks good, Steven

[steven c newman]

Thanks to all that have watched $30 worth of white Pine be turned into something useful, hope you enjoyed the journey.

Not sure WHAT the next project will be. Do have a small amount of "leftovers" to practize on....will take a little time off, to maintain the tools, and think of what I could build next.....