Hammond trim sliding table saw

[Sam Beagle]

Went to a really cool auction today. Picked up some nice massive tool cabinets for housing machinist tools. For pennies. No one wanted to move them I guess. Then I also picked up 2 Hammond trim-o-saw. There both like new condition and work perfect. I paid 30 a piece for them. There a small sliding table saw for the printing industry. They have a great set up for repeatable cuts. Can anyone else tell me anything about them. Thanks. Sam

[David Kumm]

356893356894356895356896 There is quite a cult following for the little Hammond Sliders. I think machinejunkie.com has a bunch of Hammond threads as does owwm.org. Mine is a later G100 with the steel ways. There are a couple of earlier versions, G4 with cast iron ways but a cool art deco base look. The ruler is in pica units which i have changed over. They run slow at about 2700 rpm so you need to swap pulley to about 6.25 if you can fit it into the guard. I remade mine for a larger pulley and adjust using a vfd. I also ground the casting to allow for an 8.25" Forrest WW1. There are threads about modifying the arbor but I'd just bore out the blade and screw holes. You only need a couple of blades. The Hammond only crosscuts at 90 but does it very well. I have about 7 sliding saws and the Hammond gets used as much as any. Great for furniture work. I also made a crosscut box to fit over the existing one with a stop so I can crosscut up to about 36" x17". They typically go in good condition for 350-600 so you did well. There are lots of accessories and you will find examples on the web. Dave356897356898356899

[Edwin Santos]

Congrats man. You got an amazing deal for $30 each especially if they are clean. I have been jonesing for a Hammond trim-o-saw for a while. The artisan woodworkers who have them all seem to say they couldn't live without them.

[Sam Beagle]

David. Great info. Are these saws 3 phase.

[David Kumm]

Some are single phase but I always prefer three phase. A vfd is easy to add and you can adjust speed. Still needs a larger pulley though. Dave

[Keith Weber]

Sam, my computer must be acting up. I can't see the pictures of said massive tool cabinets!

[Sam Beagle]

I've tried adding pics. I just can't do it. I would be happy to send them to anyone to post.

[Jim Becker]

That is a very kewel and useful machine! Nice find!

[Larry Edgerton]

Cool. I almost pulled the trigger on one last year, but am space challenged just now so passed. Would be a handy bugger I'm sure.

[Sam Beagle]

Everything will be home tmrw morning. I will send pics to a trusty guy on here who was nice enough to post my last pics for me

[Larry Copas]

My Hammond

356964

With my shop built quadrant accurate to better than 1/10 degree.

356965

I also modified it for an 8 1/2" blade, and dust collection. For such a small saw it has an awesome crosscutting capacity of 24" if set up proper. Out weighs my Unisaw and takes up 1/4 the floor space. Its a keeper.

[Dave Cav]

You really, really stole those saws. I have been keeping my eyes open for one for years.

[Frank Drew]

I have about 7 sliding saws ...]

?!?!?!?!? David, there's probably a support group in your area to help you with your woodworking machinery buying addiction! :)

[David Kumm]

?!?!?!?!? David, there's probably a support group in your area to help you with your woodworking machinery buying addiction! :)


There's no cure for dumb. Dave

[Chris Hachet]

That is a very kewel and useful machine! Nice find!


Indeed...very impressed with this!

[Sam Beagle]

Well I got them home today and found that they are both 3 phase. David-- can you tell me all about your VFD. My lathe has one, but where do I buy one and how to set it up. Thanks. Sam

[Malcolm McLeod]

Well I got them home today and found that they are both 3 phase. David-- can you tell me all about your VFD. My lathe has one, but where do I buy one and how to set it up. Thanks. Sam

Dan did a very good job outlining his VFD install here recently (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?250653-How-I-put-a-VFD-on-a-drill-press-for-no-more-belt-changes).

[John McClanahan]

I have one, too. Thats my avitar.


John

[Sam Beagle]

My question is more along set up and even hook up of the VFD

[John McClanahan]

I replaced the huge heavy 3 ph. motor with a 3/4 hp 3450 rpm motor that runs on 120 volts. It spins a 7 1/4" blade at about 4400 rpms with plenty of power.


John

[David Kumm]

You can easily replace the motor and pulley but I like the old large frame cast iron motors. I would run the two hot legs to the motor box and then into the existing toggle switch- it should be a three pole and you can just use two. From the toggle you go to the vfd so it has a shut off to power it on and off. From the vfd you go back to the motor with the three legs and ground and connect directly to the motor leads. You can get more advanced if you want the vfd start stop to be remotely located. I just used an enclosure without a door to keep the saw dust out and use the buttons on the unit. It is the buttons on the vfd that control the saw. the toggle just fires up the vfd. I would recommend an additional brake resistor for the vfd so you can stop the blade quickly. A regular vfd will be overpowered by the mass of the blade and fault if you adjust the stop time too short. the additional braking capability only costs about $50 and is worth it. Dave

[Sam Beagle]

David. Excellent. Thank you. Yea I like the idea of keeping the big heavy motor for weight and stability of the saw. Can you tell me what brand VFD you got and where

[David Kumm]

I had an old one from somewhere. Factorymation and driveswarehouse get good reviews over at owwm.org and you can specify the brake resistor. You can check prices online. Jack Forsberg over on canadianwoodworking. com also sells vfds. I have his email if you pm me. Dave

[Larry Copas]

I have a flock of VFD's in the shop along with a RPC. Either a Teco FM50 or an Automation Direct would work fine.

IMO you won't gain anything with a VFD other than added complexity and something else to fail. My Hammond has a single phase Baldor 1 1/2 HP 3450 motor which makes it easy to get the proper SFPM on the blade. Used single phase quality motors in the 3/4 to 1 1/2 hp range can be had for less than $50.

[David Kumm]

If you find a cheap single phase motor, go for it. The existing switch can be used. Just save the old motor so you can sell it with the machine later. Original usually increases the price. If I were replacing with a 3450 rpm, I'd go 2 hp as it will have the same torque as the existing 1750 1 hp on the saw now. That will handle hardwood to about 2" just fine. I would not want less though. Bogging down a saw never goes well. Dave

[Sam Beagle]

If I was to replace the motor. Please give me what frame motor I should buy. I'm looking on eBay. I typed in 3/4 3450 motor. What exactly should I get.

[David Kumm]

You are unlikely to find an exact fit for the mounting but look at the frame size on the existing motor. If post 1964 it will be a current designation. frame nomenaclature changed in 1952 and 1964. 3/4 hp is too small. As I posted earlier, it will take a 2 hp 3450 rpm motor to equal the 1 hp 1750 you have now. No reason to go smaller. Dave

PS. the motor swap is easier long term but not necessarily cheaper or easier up front. The new motor needs to have the same shaft diameter and length to accomodate the existing double pulleys. If not, you are shanging them and the belts. A vfd costs less than $200 including the brake resistor. I doubt you can do a motor swap for that unless you get really lucky. Shipping alone for a motor and sheaves adds costs.

[Jim Becker]

Even with having a full sized sliding saw, I could see grabbing one of these if I stumbled on one at the "right price" to keep tucked in the shop for quick utility. It seems fairly compact and is presumably accurate.

[John McClanahan]

At the time that saw was new, V belts didn't have the strength that they have today. You can run 1 1/2 HP with a single belt, so you don't have to keep the double sheave pulley.

I used a piece of plywood to make a motor mount adaptor mockup. It worked well enough I painted it and left it on. Never a problem with it or the single belt.


John

[John McClanahan]

Here are a couple of pictures of my motor swap. Also a shot of how I mount 7 1/4" saw blades. If you don't countersink the screws and raise the blade too high, you will break the screw heads off on the bottom of the table.


John

[David Kumm]

John, you are correct that the double sheave is not necessary. You should get a blade properly bored and the screws countersunk though. Not doing so relies on the weakest point of the screw to hold with little backing. The three screw set up is all ready running faster than it's design and not seating the screws has to reduce their shear strength. Dave

[John McClanahan]

The screws are countersunk, just not quite flush on this utility blade. The screw heads are a bit thicker than this blade.


John

[Bill Webster]

How is this miter gauge working out? Are there any limitations with this design that are a problem?

[jack forsberg]

great saws for 90 deg work on small parts . those one are the best printer saws . Crazy Pete over at Machine junkie is the world guru on the Hamond converted to woodworking http://www.machinejunkie.com/