can this chisel handle be saved?

[Jerry Olexa]

Have a Barton chisel I'm restoring and the handle has issues,,,Wood is solid but there is a major crack,,See pics....Handle appears to be held in with a pin of some sort? And the crack on one side has a bit of the wood gone as the crack progressed...I'd like to restore the handle in place w/o having to deal with the removal and pin..Then I have issue of filling gap on one side.....Your advice/suggestions will help me decide...Can always turn new handle but I have several others waiting in line before this...Your thoughts? Thanks

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[Mike Henderson]

I'd replace it, Jerry. It'll be a lot of work to try to close and fill the crack - maybe more work than making a new handle.

Mike

[lowell holmes]

I've made similar handles with saws, spoke shave and sand paper. I would get a piece of hard maple to make a new handle.

I would start by making a hexagonal or octagonal blank. Then shape it with a spoke shave and or draw knife.

Have a go at it, you will enjoy the task.

[Jim Koepke]

It looks like the pin wouldn't be difficult to remove. My choice would be to get rid of the pin before it cuts my hand.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Pack the crack with an epoxy, add a bit of scrap onto both the missing area and the epoxy......Clamp things up nice and tight, let it sit for a day or two......then shape the filler piece to match, and call it done. Use it a few times, the oils in your hands will colour the patched piece, and may even hide the repair. Worth a try.....BEFORE more drastic measure are taken. Hmmm....might even take a whopping 10 minutes of "work" to do? Try this fix first, have time, right?

[Jerry Olexa]

Pack the crack with an epoxy, add a bit of scrap onto both the missing area and the epoxy......Clamp things up nice and tight, let it sit for a day or two......then shape the filler piece to match, and call it done. Use it a few times, the oils in your hands will colour the patched piece, and may even hide the repair. Worth a try.....BEFORE more drastic measure are taken. Hmmm....might even take a whopping 10 minutes of "work" to do? Try this fix first, have time, right?

Good idea worth trying before the lathe,,,What is your reco regarding brand/type of epoxy for repair like this? Thank you Steve

[steven c newman]

Whatever type works with wood, and can be slipped into the cracked area, and then clamped up, before it sets up. Maybe use a couple toothpicks, the kind with the flattened end?

[John C Cox]

You have a couple options.

The reality depends on whether it's going to be a user or a collector.

99% chance the cotter pin is not original. Probably installed by a well meaning owner when the hand kept falling off instead of using a dab of shellac.

1. Leave it be. Collector value is higher unmolested.
2. Make a new handle. Jettison the pin.
3. Epoxy is your friend - fill the crack with 5 minute epoxy. Sand, polish, and be on your way
4. Saw out the crack and splint it with a rectangular piece of wood and Titebond 1. Don't hammer a wedge in or you will split it.

Pick your poison.

[Jerry Olexa]

All good ideas..I'll pick my poison in AM..Thanks you all.

[lowell holmes]

I would make a new handle as I stated earlier. Keep the old handle in case your concerned about collector values. This approach will give you both values.

I personally never worry about collector values. A tool that works is my concern.

[Jim Koepke]

1. Leave it be. Collector value is higher unmolested.

Me thinks the collector value of this particular chisel, handle combination is toast. That is unless there is a rare edition where chisels were made with cotter pins to prevent handle slippage.

If being collectable makes one of my tools unusable, it is likely to be sold in order to buy one that isn't collectable. Some of my tools may be collectable, but they must also be usable.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Methinks that "Just making a new handle..." might be even more work, than just fixing the crack and putting the chisel back to work. Keep It Simple......

If the handle can be repaired, then why bother to make a new one? Other than to show off handle making skills? The moment the chisel was drilled for the pin, it became nothing more ( or less) than a user.

[Pat Barry]

I've glued up more than one old wood handle that was split in half with a crack. Never thought of trying to make a new handle.

[Jim Koepke]

Methinks that "Just making a new handle..." might be even more work, than just fixing the crack and putting the chisel back to work. Keep It Simple......

If the handle can be repaired, then why bother to make a new one? Other than to show off handle making skills? The moment the chisel was drilled for the pin, it became nothing more ( or less) than a user.

That handle looks like it would take more time to repair than it would take to turn a new one. This of course requires a lathe which I believe the OP does have. Even with a good repair seasonal movement can make a split like that uncomfortable in use.

jtk

[Pat Barry]

That handle looks like it would take more time to repair than it would take to turn a new one. This of course requires a lathe which I believe the OP does have. Even with a good repair seasonal movement can make a split like that uncomfortable in use.

jtk
Bit of a reach to think seasonal movement will lead to issues with a repaired chisel handle.

[lowell holmes]

There is another string about making chisel handles. There is a post showing chisel handles made without a lathe.

[Jim Koepke]

Bit of a reach to think seasonal movement will lead to issues with a repaired chisel handle.

It happens with repaired plane totes. Wood moves, epoxy doesn't.

Besides, with a lathe, turning a new handle is likely less work with better results.

jtk

[bridger berdel]

I've made plenty of tool handles. I let needed handles pile up until there are enough of them to be worth setting up for it, then crank out a bunch. Simple handles like chisels take maybe 10 - 15 minutes each tops, including shellac.

[Pat Barry]

It happens with repaired plane totes. Wood moves, epoxy doesn't.

Besides, with a lathe, turning a new handle is likely less work with better results.

jtk
Sure thing Jim - for the thickness of a glue line the difference is maybe a nanometer or so.

[lowell holmes]

Come on Jerry, just make a new handle. You will be proud of it. I've made several chisel handles and I do not have a lathe.

[steven c newman]

Fellow on that auction site sells chisel handles all the time.....

I HAVE a lathe, just too much trouble to set it up to turn a handle.....ONE handle doesn't take all that long to turn, just the set up time to get a blank ready to turn, and hope one has the right wood, and long enough to turn..
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handle for a P.S & W 7/8" corner chisel...

[Jerry Olexa]

You guys are right...Last week I turned 10-12 new chisel handles (my first attempt..), See pics I posted in another thread..
I was just thinking I'd test the epoxy method before going back to the lathe....Here's pics:

356961356962356963

[lowell holmes]

You guys are right...Last week I turned 10-12 new chisel handles (my first attempt..), See pics I posted in another thread..
I was just thinking I'd test the epoxy method before going back to the lathe....Here's pics:



356961356962356963


By all means, test the epoxy. :rolleyes:

[John C Cox]

I think your handles look pretty darned good.

The #1 biggest thing for me is the feel in your hand. Does the old handle feel good in your hand. To me that original doesn't look all that comfortable. Looks more like a file handle...

[Phil Mueller]

Very well done, Jerry!