New Laguna lathe

[Greg Parrish]

Received my new 18/36 today. OMG it is so much better than the Nova Comet, and I know that isn't a fair comparison, but it is amazing the difference in experience the extra power makes. I have some fine tuning to do on the layout, location, etc but it's a start. I'll be building a sand box for it and probably raising it up a little too.

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72/p2252099485-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s12/v171/p2252099510-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v111/p2252099555-4.jpg


First bowl bowl knocked out on it. Need to go back and smooth the inside a little but I got tired and had to call it quits for the night.

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s12/v173/p2252100572-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v89/p2252100543-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s12/v171/p2252100523-4.jpg

[Vince Welch]

Congrads Greg! Nice lathe!
Vince

[Steve Mathews]

Congrats on the new and very nice lathe! Nice first work on it too. I'm jealous.

[Adam Petersen]

Congrats Greg! She's a beaut. I really like the control panel on these lathes. I wish mine had controls like that. Nice looking bowl too.

[John Keeton]

Greg, you are going to enjoy the Laguna! IMO, it is the best value on the market today.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks guys. Love it so far. Will have to get a new chuck soon though as the little G3 is a little undersized for these bigger pieces.



Greg, you are going to enjoy the Laguna! IMO, it is the best value on the market today.

John, I know it's a lot to ask but would you mind sharing some pictures of your sand box drawer setup? The one on your review helps but is pretty small and hard to see well. Also, did you make any adjustment or settings on the delta box? I can't find anything about it in the lathe manual but it does have switches on it so I wasn't sure. Thank you!

here is how mine came out of the box
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v4/p2252097190-4.jpg

[daryl moses]

Great looking Lathe Greg, i'm sure your going to love it.
Good job on the bowl, looks like it will be a stunner when you finish it. Looks like spalted Sycamore????

[Tom Brouillette]

I've been eyeballing the Laguna too. You talked about raising it a little...what is the spindle height? I'm 6'4", and I had to jack up my Nova 1624 to a comfortable height.

[David Delo]

I've been eyeballing the Laguna too. You talked about raising it a little...what is the spindle height? I'm 6'4", and I had to jack up my Nova 1624 to a comfortable height.

Had a chance to actually see one over at Rockler last week. I'm same height as you and that's the first thing that jumped out at me. Had to double and triple check it was completely assembled. Way to short for me unless it gets elevated. Didn't like the placement of the tailstock lock lever with the comparator casting installed. Looked like it could be a knuckle buster. However, really liked the headstock taper and very much liked the tool rest cam lock. Wish my PM had that, very nice feature. Pretty nice lathe with everything needed to do anything you want at an attractive price point, just to short for me. YMMV

[Greg Parrish]

Great looking Lathe Greg, i'm sure your going to love it.
Good job on the bowl, looks like it will be a stunner when you finish it. Looks like spalted Sycamore????
thanks. Yes. It's spalted red sycamore. I really like the way this turns. Wish I had a bunch of sycamore trees. :)


I've been eyeballing the Laguna too. You talked about raising it a little...what is the spindle height? I'm 6'4", and I had to jack up my Nova 1624 to a comfortable height.
I will go measure but it's too low for me too. I'm 6'1" and feel like I have to hunch over too much. I'm going to raise mine.


Had a chance to actually see one over at Rockler last week. I'm same height as you and that's the first thing that jumped out at me. Had to double and triple check it was completely assembled. Way to short for me unless it gets elevated. Didn't like the placement of the tailstock lock lever with the comparator casting installed. Looked like it could be a knuckle buster. However, really liked the headstock taper and very much liked the tool rest cam lock. Wish my PM had that, very nice feature. Pretty nice lathe with everything needed to do anything you want at an attractive price point, just to short for me. YMMV
I agree. I wanted the PM3520B but just couldn't justify the price point at nearly $2K more. Even 9 year old used ones were nearly $1K more. Doesn't make sense to me. If I were going to spend $4k, why not go ahead and get a serious lathe or a robust lathe. Heck you can probably find a oneway 24 used not far off that price range. Anyway, my preference would have been the PM but my budget said no. LOL

[Dave Carey]

Greg,
Congratulations. I'm moving in a couple of months and have promised myself a new lathe with the Laguna as the frontrunner for some of the reasons you mention as well as John's earlier review. I'm 6'1" as well and thought it might be a little low. Will be very interested in your adjustments to raise the lathe and build the sand box if you're willing to keep us posted. Oh yeah, like the bowl too! Happy turning. Dave

[daryl moses]

thanks. Yes. It's spalted red sycamore. I really like the way this turns. Wish I had a bunch of sycamore trees. :)
I love turning Sycamore as well, i've found it "behaves" quite well. I have a Sycamore on the ground now that hopefully will spalt.
I'd gladly load you up if your within driving distance.
The vase on the right is Sycamore, [no spalting] that I did last year. One on the left is Ambrosia Maple.

[Stefano Bastianelli]

The spindle is at 41.5".
Be sure the model in the stores has the pegs installed at the bottom; if raised they give you 2 inches more.

[Greg Parrish]

I love turning Sycamore as well, i've found it "behaves" quite well. I have a Sycamore on the ground now that hopefully will spalt.
I'd gladly load you up if your within driving distance.
The vase on the right is Sycamore, [no spalting] that I did last year. One on the left is Ambrosia Maple.

those are awesome Daryl. Would love a truck load of sycamore but a little far for me being down in Florida. Thanks for the offer though. :)

[John K Jordan]

I love turning Sycamore as well, i've found it "behaves" quite well. I have a Sycamore on the ground now that hopefully will spalt.
I'd gladly load you up if your within driving distance.


Since Greg is too far away, I guess it's up to me to come after his Sycamore. :) I think you are just over an hour down the road. I have well over 100 species of wood in my shop but only a couple of small pieces of sycamore so I've never really given it a fair try.

Most of my turning is spindles and small boxes and things so if you mostly do larger things I probably don't have much to trade unless you could use some ebony or something for finials. I do have a HUGE quantity of big green white oak and hickory logs awaiting my sawmill or my firewood pile, if any of that would be useful. Also some logs of eastern red cedar. I have some small walnut logs and need to cut a maple and probably a big cherry when I get the time. Do any of those interest you?

Nice vessels, BTW.

JKJ

[daryl moses]

Since Greg is too far away, I guess it's up to me to come after his Sycamore. :) I think you are just over an hour down the road. I have well over 100 species of wood in my shop but only a couple of small pieces of sycamore so I've never really given it a fair try.

Most of my turning is spindles and small boxes and things so if you mostly do larger things I probably don't have much to trade unless you could use some ebony or something for finials. I do have a HUGE quantity of big green white oak and hickory logs awaiting my sawmill or my firewood pile, if any of that would be useful. Also some logs of eastern red cedar. I have some small walnut logs and need to cut a maple and probably a big cherry when I get the time. Do any of those interest you?

Nice vessels, BTW.

JKJ
John, your welcome to come by and get all the Sycamore you want. I accidentally knocked one down last year while felling a diseased White Oak. I have several more here on the property some of which need to come down. You don't need to trade anything, I have trees falling all of the time, so I always have something to turn.
Give me a shout sometime!

[John Keeton]

John, I know it's a lot to ask but would you mind sharing some pictures of your sand box drawer setup? The one on your review helps but is pretty small and hard to see well. Also, did you make any adjustment or settings on the delta box? I can't find anything about it in the lathe manual but it does have switches on it so I wasn't sure. Thank you!

here is how mine came out of the box
Greg, you have seen my thread I just posted on the ballast box, but I failed to comment on the VFD. I did not make any changes in the setup - way beyond my skill level!!

[Greg Parrish]

Greg, you have seen my thread I just posted on the ballast box, but I failed to comment on the VFD. I did not make any changes in the setup - way beyond my skill level!!


Thanks. Me neither. :)

i did did go ahead and order a supernova2 with adapter. Figured since I already have 3 or 4 jaws it made most sense, even if I also pick up another jaw down the road. This just gets me something larger than the G3 that I can use now for reasonably lower investment.

[Van Huskey]

While not cheap at $299 Laguna does have 3" riser blocks for the 18/36.

[Greg Parrish]

While not cheap at $299 Laguna does have 3" riser blocks for the 18/36.

$269 on sale but pricey shipping. I'm looking to go another route but need to get my placement and desired height figured out first. I'm trying to keep it compatible with the table saw since plywood will have to skim over the lathe bed.

[Adam Petersen]

My 1624 was too low too. I'm 5'11" (& 3/4! :rolleyes:). I went a cheapo route and just cut off 2 x 4 about 6" and then applied 80 grit stick on sandpaper to the bottom. For my lathe, I used to be able to slide it around on my slick garage floor with ease. It's a bear to move now just by adding that sandpaper. I used to get upper, middle back pain after turning for awhile, gave me headaches. When I raised it that 1.5" the pain mostly went away. I also feel that I have better tool control. So, in conclusion, if you feel it's too low, don't wait too long to raise it as it'll make the experience much more pleasurable for you (YMMV).

[Thomas Canfield]

[QUOTE=Greg Parrish;2673285]Received my new 18/36 today. OMG it is so much better than the Nova Comet, and I know that isn't a fair comparison, but it is amazing the difference in experience the extra power makes. I have some fine tuning to do on the layout, location, etc but it's a start. I'll be building a sand box for it and probably raising it up a little too.

Congratulations. You did not say what you are doing with your Nova Comet. I have a Powermatic 3520B and the Nova Comet. The little Comet is great to take for class and also for small items, buffing, and letting friends use to learn. I don't let beginners use my Powermatic but rather learn on the lower power and Comet. I also keep waiting for your post of a bottom without the recess, but nice bowl. Sycamore is good wood to work.

[Greg Parrish]

[QUOTE=Greg Parrish;2673285]Received my new 18/36 today. OMG it is so much better than the Nova Comet, and I know that isn't a fair comparison, but it is amazing the difference in experience the extra power makes. I have some fine tuning to do on the layout, location, etc but it's a start. I'll be building a sand box for it and probably raising it up a little too.

Congratulations. You did not say what you are doing with your Nova Comet. I have a Powermatic 3520B and the Nova Comet. The little Comet is great to take for class and also for small items, buffing, and letting friends use to learn. I don't let beginners use my Powermatic but rather learn on the lower power and Comet. I also keep waiting for your post of a bottom without the recess, but nice bowl. Sycamore is good wood to work.

I haven't figured out an easy way without a vacuum chuck which I don't have on these bigger items. Not sure how to turn the bowl around to contour the bottom.

the nova is going to get sold to help offset the Laguna cost and to clear up space for another tool that needs a home.

[Greg Parrish]

Unfortunately while running the lathe in reverse the factory face plate damaged my spindle threads. I tightened the face plate and tightened both set screws. looks like the set screws were turned backwards over the thread. Not sure if this means something is faulty, or if it's par for the course and I need to live with it. Never had this issue on my comet though.

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23/p2253117588-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v58/p2253118506-4.jpg

[John Keeton]

Greg, your Comet does not have the torque the Laguna has, nor did you probably run a heavy faceplate on it. I NEVER use the set screws in chucks or faceplate. Just don't need the risk. You still have enough threads, so you should be fine. Just use a file to dress the damage.

[Greg Parrish]

Greg, your Comet does not have the torque the Laguna has, nor did you probably run a heavy faceplate on it. I NEVER use the set screws in chucks or faceplate. Just don't need the risk. You still have enough threads, so you should be fine. Just use a file to dress the damage.

Thanks John. I did start cleaning it up with a file to make it usable again.

So you still use reverse but don't use set screws? Just tighten the faceplate with the included handle/bar. Never had one unthread while turning or sanding in reverse?

[John K Jordan]

Thanks John. I did start cleaning it up with a file to make it usable again. So you still use reverse but don't use set screws? Just tighten the faceplate with the included handle/bar. Never had one unthread while turning or sanding in reverse?

Like John Keeton, I don't use the set screws. I don't do a lot of large bowls but I have turned them in reverse on occasion (and sanded, of course) and have never once had a chuck unthread in the years I've been turning. When I install the chuck, I always do it the same way: thread the chuck on by hand then give the chuck a sharp twist with my hand at the last 1/8-1/4 turn. This puts the chuck on firmly and it always needs the spanner wrench to remove it. (I NEVER mount or remove a chuck with the key as I've seen other do. I don't like the stress it puts on the components.)

Note that some lathe spindles are machined so there is a flat with no threads where the set screws would bear. You could do that with yours with a file or a small hand held grinder. I can imagine the hesitation to grind on the spindle on a new lathe but at the moment the thread in that area doesn't look like it's earning its keep. :)

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

Not to be an alarmist and I'm by no means an expert but while reading my lathe manual I found that lathe spindles are usually hardened. Based on the discoloration of your spindle where the set screw was rubbing it looks like some of its hardness was affected unnecessarily. Regardless, a set screw shouldn't damage the threads that way. I don't think it should've happened with a hardened spindle. Maybe the manufacturer will replace it under warranty.

[Greg Parrish]

Not to be an alarmist and I'm by no means an expert but while reading my lathe manual I found that lathe spindles are usually hardened. Based on the discoloration of your spindle where the set screw was rubbing it looks like some of its hardness was affected unnecessarily. Regardless, a set screw shouldn't damage the threads that way. I don't think it should've happened with a hardened spindle. Maybe the manufacturer will replace it under warranty.

Interesting point. I'll give them a call on Monday to discuss. You can certainly see the discoloration. I only ran the lathe in reverse for a few minutes to see if the tear out I was getting might have been due to grain direction/orientation. Tried the cut on the right side of the lathe which didn't help the tear out but apparently that little bit of friction caused the face plate to start unscrewing. Normally I only sand in reverse though.

remember where you saw it? I just skimmed the manual and didn't find any mention of the spindle material or hardening/hardness. Thanks.

[John K Jordan]

remember where you saw it? I just skimmed the manual and didn't find any mention of the spindle material or hardening/hardness. Thanks.

From the Robust lathe sheet about all of their lathes: Spindle: The spindle is pre-hardened 4140 Chrome Moly alloy with an 1 1/4"-8 spindle nose drilled and readily equipped for vacuum. There is a groove for a safety set screw and a #2 Morse taper. A metric spindle, threaded 33 x 3.5 is also available on most models.

Note the groove machined specifically for the safety set screw to eliminate the problem.

Robust lathes are in fact considered on the high-end of quality. Your manufacturer should be able to tell you how yours is supposed to be made.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

Just FYI.....most lathes from China do not have hardened spindles these days.

[Greg Parrish]

Just FYI.....most lathes from China do not have hardened spindles these days.

Guess that's one of the things the extra $5k would have gotten me. LOL. One day though.....................

ill still call Laguna to see what they have to say. Who knows they may offer to replace it anyway. Worth a 5 minute call.

[Steve Mathews]

Greg - Sorry but I didn't see your question about the spindle hardness reference until just now. I should have stated that I was referring to my Oneway manual. But that doesn't mean Laguna shouldn't have taken the same care in manufacturing their spindles. You appear to have a good quality machine and probably paid a good amount for it. As such I would not expect a spindle thread to be damaged by a set screw as shown in your picture. I would remind Laguna that if they refuse to correct the problem and try to shift the responsibility your way that they should've cautioned in their manual that the spindle threads could be damaged because they were not hardened. Based on what I've read it's more customary that lathe spindles be hardened than not. Also, what little I've read about Laguna's customer service it seems very good. I would definitely give them an opportunity to make good on that reputation. It would also be great if you would let us know what they decide. Future Laguna customers may want to know.

[Greg Parrish]

Greg - Sorry but I didn't see your question about the spindle hardness reference until just now. I should have stated that I was referring to my Oneway manual. But that doesn't mean Laguna shouldn't have taken the same care in manufacturing their spindles. You appear to have a good quality machine and probably paid a good amount for it. As such I would not expect a spindle thread to be damaged by a set screw as shown in your picture. I would remind Laguna that if they refuse to correct the problem and try to shift the responsibility your way that they should've cautioned in their manual that the spindle threads could be damaged because they were not hardened. Based on what I've read it's more customary that lathe spindles be hardened than not. Also, what little I've read about Laguna's customer service it seems very good. I would definitely give them an opportunity to make good on that reputation. It would also be great if you would let us know what they decide. Future Laguna customers may want to know.

good points. Will let you know what comes out of the call.

[david privett]

is there a reason that someone has not developed a spindle that has the option of using a jam nut on the backside of whatever attachment you are running to lock things in place in reverse ?

[Thomas Canfield]

Gregg - Check out using a jam chuck with rubber or leather pad and live center to hold bowl/turning to reshape the majority of bottom down to a small nub to remove with chisel. It works well for a tenon with dimple in center and one of the reasons that I almost always use a tenon. The dimple also helps line up with vacuum chuck if you later get one. I do not like to use a force jam chuck to fully support piece since it only works on a true round piece and I turn too many natural edge pieces and hollow forms.

A friend bought a early model Laguna like yours and did similar damage to drive threads. He bought a die from automotive parts store for less than $20 to clean threads, and loaned it to me to clean my 3520B where I damaged it turning a crazy piece in reverse since I could not get on back side of lathe to get proper tool insertion. Lots of new things to look forward to.

[Greg Parrish]

Gregg - Check out using a jam chuck with rubber or leather pad and live center to hold bowl/turning to reshape the majority of bottom down to a small nub to remove with chisel. It works well for a tenon with dimple in center and one of the reasons that I almost always use a tenon. The dimple also helps line up with vacuum chuck if you later get one. I do not like to use a force jam chuck to fully support piece since it only works on a true round piece and I turn too many natural edge pieces and hollow forms.

A friend bought a early model Laguna like yours and did similar damage to drive threads. He bought a die from automotive parts store for less than $20 to clean threads, and loaned it to me to clean my 3520B where I damaged it turning a crazy piece in reverse since I could not get on back side of lathe to get proper tool insertion. Lots of new things to look forward to.


Never imagined finding an affordable die or thread restorer in 1.25". Will have to check that out but will still check with Laguna tomorrow. If they do replace then win, win. If not then I have to fix and maintain anyway.

Im going to pick up some 4x3 rectangular steel in 3/8 or 1/4 tomorrow to make some risers. I really can't see paying $269 on sale for the cast iron ones

[Jeffrey J Smith]

You might want to replace the set screws with brass tips ones - available at McMaster - Carr, for one place. I had a similar incident on my old Jet 1642. Replaced the set screws on all my chucks and faceplates. It's only a couple bucks for a bag full. The spindles on all Jets are not hardened. I'd be surprised if any of the Asian imports have hardened spindles these days.

The brass tips are softer than the steel spindlethreads and will usually deform before taking out the threads. You can get set screws with either brass or nylon tips.

[John Keeton]

Greg, I just took another look at your spindle image. The Laguna spindle has approx. 7 threads, which is what you have. The flat area behind the threads is factory, so the only "damage" you have is some damage to one thread and perhaps a portion of another. I think it is easily repairable and you will never notice the partial loss of that thread. It certainly isn't worth any effort to replace the spindle in my opinion. I doubt Laguna would agree to do anything as all the lathes I have owned do not have hardened threads. As others have said, I doubt any of the Asian made lathes for the past decade or so have hardened spindles.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

To add to John Keeton’s reply which I do totally agree with, the groove on the spindle is to have the set screws go down into, and hold the chuck from unscrewing, the blue color showing has to be from the screws or some other material, not from the heat of a spinning/slipping material, if you ever again want to use the set screws, make sure they are tightened down well, and even then you better take very light cuts in reverse direction, these screw can hold only so much, certainly not like in the normal forward direction :)

Oh one more thing, make sure the setscrews do go down into the groove of your spindle, and not onto the threaded part, as there is no standard for those grooves on the spindles or chuck setscrew hole placements.

[Greg Parrish]

Greg, I just took another look at your spindle image. The Laguna spindle has approx. 7 threads, which is what you have. The flat area behind the threads is factory, so the only "damage" you have is some damage to one thread and perhaps a portion of another. I think it is easily repairable and you will never notice the partial loss of that thread. It certainly isn't worth any effort to replace the spindle in my opinion. I doubt Laguna would agree to do anything as all the lathes I have owned do not have hardened threads. As others have said, I doubt any of the Asian made lathes for the past decade or so have hardened spindles.


John, so yours has that one flattened thread closest to the headstock also?.

Thanks.

[Steve Mathews]

The responses following the OPs mention of the spindle damage have been informative and surprising. A factory faceplate was used when the damage occurred so the set screw should've aligned with the spindle groove, assuming of course the faceplate was fully seated. The depth of the scoring on the spindle clearly shows that the setscrew was fully engaged. Why there are 2 parallel grooves in the spindle made by the set screw is a mystery through. Based on the depth of the scoring it seems logical that a lot of heat was generated resulting in the bluing shown. As for the damaged threads I'm not sure how that could've happened that high up on the crown if the setscrew was fully engaged in the groove. Perhaps it occurred after the setscrew sufficiently wore away or it happened afterwards when the setscrew wasn't fully engaged. Based on Greg's comments I don't see anything that he did wrong and shouldn't have to settle for what resulted. I agree that installing a new spindle would be a hassle and possibly more trouble than it's worth but that could easily be remedied by swapping out a complete headstock, which I believe the manufacturer should do.

Now the surprising. I had no idea that any manufacturer of a lathe would use a non hardened spindle. I have 2 lathes, one for woodturning and another for metalwork. Both have hardened spindles. I didn't choose either one on that basis but just assumed that it would be required because of the lateral stresses involved and the constant changing of chucks, etc. Why we let manufacturers get away with inferior quality totally baffles me.

[John K Jordan]

...The depth of the scoring on the spindle clearly shows that the setscrew was fully engaged. Why there are 2 parallel grooves in the spindle made by the set screw is a mystery through.

Based on the depth of the scoring it seems logical that a lot of heat was generated resulting in the bluing shown. As for the damaged threads I'm not sure how that could've happened that high up on the crown if the setscrew was fully engaged in the groove...


It is fun to analyze from the two photos but it is difficult to do so thoroughly without the parts actually in hand for close inspection. It would be easy to misinterpret the measurements and angles due to lighting and distortion from the camera lens.

If the bluing is actually from this incident it is conceivable the set screw could have generated the heat as it was dragged (2 revolutions?) around the spindle land until it crashed into the thread. It could have turned a bit to loosen or tighten as it moved.

The play built into all the lathe spindles I've seen would allow the faceplate to tilt a bit relative to the spindle axis once it broke away from the seat, compounding the variability of the forces. The deep gauling on the second photo running parallel to the thread could have been aided by that tilt or the set screw turning to tighten or loosen. I can imagine the set screw being turned a bit counter clockwise shortening it as it ran up the side of the thread. Did it remain intact or break from the impact? Was there just one set screw?

Regardless, I agree the spindle should still function acceptably unless it was bent from the the incident. Whether I pursued a free replacement would depend on if I thought something I did wrong caused the incident. If it was my lathe and if I planned to use set screws with any particular faceplate or a chuck I would make one small modification: mount the faceplate and mark the location of where the set screw bears on the spindle land. Then make a flat in the land for the set screw, perhaps with a file or Dremel. (Make sure the set screw is still long enough afterward.) Make other flats as needed for other faceplates or chucks.

If I often turned heavy things in reverse I would consider drilling and tapping to provide for a second set screw. (For a really massive lathe a locking pin/bolt might be appropriate!)

Was the faceplate properly seated on the spindle? I would inspect each faceplate (and any chucks) to make sure they do in fact seat properly. Some chuck manuals recommend inspecting the chuck threads for burrs or chips which can prevent complete seating.

From a Teknatool manual on mounting a chuck with to a lathe:

...Make sure the chuck is screwed to lathe thread properly -a good check is to see whether
it screws home on the spindle the same as another lathe fixture such as a faceplate.

POOR FIT OF CHUCK TO LATHE SPINDLE CREATES A SERIOUS HAZARD WHERE
CHUCK COULD DISLODGE FROM LATHE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE CHUCK UNLESS
THE CHUCK US CORRECTLY FITTED TO LATHE SPINDLE.

JKJ

[Greg Parrish]

Contacted Laguna who issued a case number, asked for pictures, serial number and proof of purchase and said they would get back to me. Will keep you guys posted on what they say.

for the additional pics I took, not much better detail I'm afraid, you can look at txbonds.zenfolio.com under my workshop folder. They are the last photos in that folder.

in this case the factory face plate has 2 set screws and I seated it with the provided handle bar.

[Mike Goetzke]

Greg - looking at your spindle photos it also looks like your lead thread is "boogered" up too. The marks from the set screws do look strange. You might expect the galled material to be in the loosening direction of the reverse turning but the galling is toward the headstock.


All - I'm not the most experienced turner but what reasons would there be to turn in reverse? I can see sanding but not for basic operations.

Thanks,

Mike

[daryl moses]

All - I'm not the most experienced turner but what reasons would there be to turn in reverse?
I've turned in reverse a few times doing hollow-forms. You can see the inside better.

[Greg Parrish]

Had a call with laguna. Nice enough interaction.

No new spindle/headstock. They are providing me a new faceplate with new set screws.

They also offered to mail me a thread restorer die to use and mail back but I'll just get my own to keep.

Lastly they insisted the spindle is hardened. They said initial part of first and last row of threads are thinner and more prone to damage. They indicated to tighten the set screws tighter and without saying it they implied not to turn in reverse, only sand when in reverse.

Don't know if really hardened or not. So, no worse off after call than before but getting a spare face plate out of it. Will get a thread restorer die and move on with life. ;)

[Mike Goetzke]

I've turned in reverse a few times doing hollow-forms. You can see the inside better.

Can't you just turn forward and stand behind the lathe?

[daryl moses]

Can't you just turn forward and stand behind the lathe?
If I wanted to reach across the bed ways and a spinning chunk of wood to turn the lathe on and off I could. I prefer not to do that as it would be dangerous.
Some lathes have a "remote" on-off switch, mine does not.

[Eugene Dixon]

I believe I would chase the threads on the old face plate...just to be sure.

[John K Jordan]

...what reasons would there be to turn in reverse? I can see sanding but not for basic operations.


Mike, I can't speak for others but I occasionally turn in reverse when working on the inside of a bowl or other face turning. Rather than lean over and peer into the cavity I can see the other side well to make cuts with a bowl gouge. I don't do this for fine scraping to smooth tool marks since I do that by feel.

Occasionally it's been handy to cut some kind of recess without turning the tool around and holding the handle over the far side of the late. I can't walk around and turn from the other side since I keep my lathes up against walls.

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

Had a call with laguna. Nice enough interaction.

No new spindle/headstock. They are providing me a new faceplate with new set screws.

They also offered to mail me a thread restorer die to use and mail back but I'll just get my own to keep.

Lastly they insisted the spindle is hardened. They said initial part of first and last row of threads are thinner and more prone to damage. They indicated to tighten the set screws tighter and without saying it they implied not to turn in reverse, only sand when in reverse.

Don't know if really hardened or not. So, no worse off after call than before but getting a spare face plate out of it. Will get a thread restorer die and move on with life. ;)
It sounds like you're satisfied with the outcome so I'll spare further comment. But if you're curious about the spindle there is a simple test to get a rough idea of its hardness using a standard metal file. Basically just use the corner of a sharp metal file on a piece of steel. A file gliding over the surface will indicate relative hardness. Not so much if it digs in and cuts the metal. You can try it on one of your high speed steel turning tools and comparing it with a piece of cold rolled steel to get an idea of how it works. This will relate to how well or easy it will be to restore your spindle threads.

[John Keeton]

I can assure you that the spindle threads on the Laguna are not hardened. When mine was new, it had a rough edge on the first thread that did not affect functionality, but was enough to catch ones skin or clothing. I dressed the thread easily with a file.

[Roger Chandler]

I can assure you that the spindle threads on the Laguna are not hardened. When mine was new, it had a rough edge on the first thread that did not affect functionality, but was enough to catch ones skin or clothing. I dressed the thread easily with a file.Yeah, those sales people don't always know the full details as well as the owners know. They are pushing sales and have to be a little familiar with a wide array of machines. On more than one occassion, I got incorrect info from a sales guy at Laguna back a few years ago, when I was considering one of their lathe models.

[Greg Parrish]

Spent all weekend reconfiguring garage shop layout. Got the lathe positioned after moving it about 20 times. Started making a weight box and will add some drawers on top. Right now I've add around 450 lbs to the lathe though. 6 X 50 lb bags of pool filter sand, a used set of f350 camper steel hitch rails, the short biesemeyer rail set from my table saw, and the wood needed for box construction. I lowered the box nearer the floor to drop the center of gravity too. Approaching the 900 to 1,000 pound range so it's not going anywhere.

Ran a new drop off the Oneida with 6" pipe and 6" flex. Used another Lee valley blast gate.

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v57/p2263801413-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v125/p2263801219-4.jpg

[John Keeton]

Looks great, Greg! My only concern would be small objects rolling under the lathe and being hard to retrieve, or being difficult to clean under the lathe. I might be inclined to put a piece of trim on that would extend the box to the floor.

[Greg Parrish]

Looks great, Greg! My only concern would be small objects rolling under the lathe and being hard to retrieve, or being difficult to clean under the lathe. I might be inclined to put a piece of trim on that would extend the box to the floor.


Thanks. I left it about 2.5 inches above the floor so it could be cleaned under with my electric blower. Also forgot to mention that I made up and installed some 1/4" steel 3.5x3.5 steel tubing risers to get the spindle height up to a comfortable height

i added those silly looking side feet onto the box for a central support but I'm thinking it wasn't needed. May end up removing the, and I have been thinking about adding a nice strip of trim on top and bottom to dress it up a bit. :)

[Steve Mathews]

Nice upgrades and job well done!

[Greg Parrish]

Kind of silly but cobbled this together from scraps and pieces around the shop
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v103/p2264873658-4.jpg

Sliding inside support allows reach to change with a set pin
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v47/p2265313696-4.jpg
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s9/v94/p2265314003-4.jpg

Simple clip pulls chain together enough for it to retain its grip on the 6" flex hose. Chain makes it easily height adjustable by changing which links are in the top hook.
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v168/p2265314241-4.jpg

So it looks funny but seems to be pretty functional so far at holding the hose end right in place. Won't do much for catching the large chips around my feet though.
http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v137/p2265314615-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v53/p2265361137-4.jpg

http://txbonds.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v109/p2265361274-4.jpg

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Like John Keeton, I don't use the set screws. I don't do a lot of large bowls but I have turned them in reverse on occasion (and sanded, of course) and have never once had a chuck unthread in the years I've been turning. When I install the chuck, I always do it the same way: thread the chuck on by hand then give the chuck a sharp twist with my hand at the last 1/8-1/4 turn. This puts the chuck on firmly and it always needs the spanner wrench to remove it. (I NEVER mount or remove a chuck with the key as I've seen other do. I don't like the stress it puts on the components.)

Note that some lathe spindles are machined so there is a flat with no threads where the set screws would bear. You could do that with yours with a file or a small hand held grinder. I can imagine the hesitation to grind on the spindle on a new lathe but at the moment the thread in that area doesn't look like it's earning its keep. :)

JKJ

I still seem to have troubles when my Nova Galaxi brakes to a stop sometime. I did find some brass tipped set screws at MSCDirect (and complete brass set screws in metric on EBAY, but you'll have to wait for a small packet from China! I think the brass tipped screws should be safe for the threads but keep my Oneway chuck from unwinding when I stop.

[Allan Ferguson]

I had up graded my nova 1624. I turned off the brake function because it would stop rapidly sending a heavy bowl and chuck flying.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

I had up graded my nova 1624. I turned off the brake function because it would stop rapidly sending a heavy bowl and chuck flying.
I'll have to look into that!