Plane choice for a beginner?

[Scott Archi]

So I sold some of my sharpening stones (about $600 worth) and am wanting to invest some of that in a hand plane or two. My dad is letting me borrow his Stanley block plane which I am getting on well with. I want to say it's about 7" long so not a tiny plane. I was making shavings last night 0.0015" thick on hard wood.

I don't do much work at all as I'm just getting started and don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a veritas. I could but I'd rather not as I'm not a professional.

I've pondered buying off eBay and "fettling" as you gents say. While kind of appealing I'd rather have brand new. I've gone the buy vintage before with other hobbies before and it's fun but a boat load of work sometimes.

I'm not sure which plane to buy. A #5 jack has been reccomended a lot reading through threads but I have a tiny workshop (will find the measurements, but it's in a one bedroom apartment so I can't bust out a #7 jointer on an 8' board) and don't have room to do large projects.

A #5 may be too large for my needs. While interested in furniture making I don't know where to start. A #4 sounds like it'll be good but not for taking off lots of material like a jack could. If i want to start with some pretty ugly stock and would need a scrub too and then would a #4 be enough to true it up?

I was also looking.at the veritas chisel plane in lieu of a rabbet/router plane.

Trouble is I don't know exactly what I would need...

Suggestions?

[Chris Hachet]

So I sold some of my sharpening stones (about $600 worth) and am wanting to invest some of that in a hand plane or two. My dad is letting me borrow his Stanley block plane which I am getting on well with. I want to say it's about 7" long so not a tiny plane. I was making shavings last night 0.0015" thick on hard wood.

I don't do much work at all as I'm just getting started and don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a veritas. I could but I'd rather not as I'm not a professional.

I've pondered buying off eBay and "fettling" as you gents say. While kind of appealing I'd rather have brand new. I've gone the buy vintage before with other hobbies before and it's fun but a boat load of work sometimes.

I'm not sure which plane to buy. A #5 jack has been reccomended a lot reading through threads but I have a tiny workshop (will find the measurements, but it's in a one bedroom apartment so I can't bust out a #7 jointer on an 8' board) and don't have room to do large projects.

A #5 may be too large for my needs. While interested in furniture making I don't know where to start. A #4 sounds like it'll be good but not for taking off lots of material like a jack could. If i want to start with some pretty ugly stock and would need a scrub too and then would a #4 be enough to true it up?

I was also looking.at the veritas chisel plane in lieu of a rabbet/router plane.

Trouble is I don't know exactly what I would need...

Suggestions?Start with a #4 or #5 Veritas with the PMV-11 blade. I would get one with a chip breaker.

That is if you are going new. My best education was in trying to make a crappy #4 work, was able to figure out all of the things that can go wrong with a plane. After dealing with that, I now know how to tune my better planes.

[Hasin Haroon]

Hi Scott,

It sounds like you don't have too much space to store many tools, and want a good all round plane. I would suggest a Veritas low angle jack. It's well worth the money, and as a jack plane is sized to be able to hog out waste, smooth and joint. In the future, if you find yourself progressing your neander ways further, you can add a couple blades that will make it easier to shoot end grain and smooth difficult woods. With a $600 budget you will still have more than half left over for more tools.

Otherwise I would recommend going the old tool route - you can easily get yourself a smoother, a jack and a jointer for that much money. You do need to be prepared to fix the tools up, which, while not difficult, does take a little bit of experience to do well. If you don't want to waste much time fixing up tools, this probably isn't the route for you.

As for the chisel planes etc., my suggestion would be to get a couple chisels instead, a 1/4", a 3/8" and 1/2" - they are a lot more versatile and can be used for a variety of tasks.

[Chris Hachet]

Hi Scott,

It sounds like you don't have too much space to store many tools, and want a good all round plane. I would suggest a Veritas low angle jack. It's well worth the money, and as a jack plane is sized to be able to hog out waste, smooth and joint. In the future, if you find yourself progressing your neander ways further, you can add a couple blades that will make it easier to shoot end grain and smooth difficult woods. With a $600 budget you will still have more than half left over for more tools.

Otherwise I would recommend going the old tool route - you can easily get yourself a smoother, a jack and a jointer for that much money. You do need to be prepared to fix the tools up, which, while not difficult, does take a little bit of experience to do well. If you don't want to waste much time fixing up tools, this probably isn't the route for you.

As for the chisel planes etc., my suggestion would be to get a couple chisels instead, a 1/4", a 3/8" and 1/2" - they are a lot more versatile and can be used for a variety of tasks.One does not need a ton of chisels to do good woodworking, you will find yourself using the same few chisels all of the time. 20 percent of my chisels do 90 percent of my work.

[Prashun Patel]

"Trouble is I don't know exactly what I would need... "

I know what you need: a project. The need should precede the tool. The risk of doing it the other way is ending up with a chisel plane that you may never use besides to try it out the first time you open the box.

In general, I would argue that it's best to start with the smoothing planes and work up to the jacks and jointers. The reason is that smoothing - while not easy - is straight forward. you know when you have succeeded, and you know immediately if you have failed. For jointing and flattening, you need to do a lot more diagnosis with each stroke to figure out if you are doing it correctly. Also, the general milling planes require a lot more physical effort and work holding acumen (IMHO). It can be discouraging to mill a board especially when with each drop of sweat you're thinking, "I could just do this with a power jointer / planer in 1/100'th the time". But with a smoother, the payoff is an arguably better surface than sanding, with much less dust, and time. So the payoff is bigger. Good smoothers in the vintage market are also abundant and affordable.

That being said, I still think you should first pick a project. A good small wall cabinet or box is a perfect hand plane project (I went through a couple this past fall). Pick your wood wisely.

My 2 cents.

[Hasin Haroon]

Absolutely Chris. I have too many chisels, but I find I go back to my three standbys, the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" for most work. I do like having wider chisels to clean up mortises but I could definitely do without.

[Rob Luter]

If you have to pick two, go with a #4 bench plane and a low angle block plane. They will take care of 90% of what you need to do.

[Chris Hachet]

Absolutely Chris. I have too many chisels, but I find I go back to my three standbys, the 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" for most work. I do like having wider chisels to clean up mortises but I could definitely do without.I have too many as well, but when I need larger or odd sized ones, I really need them. Nice to have a tool and not need it than need it and not have it...I also like having a few spares so i do not have to stop and re sharpen in the middle of working on something.

[bridger berdel]

A #4 size sounds like what you need. You'll have a hard time finding anything new outside of the "premium" brands worth having, but there are several reputable dealers online from whom you can buy a fettled vintage user. Get 3 sets of blade/chipbreaker for it and set them up with 3 different cambers.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Scott,

As others have mentioned, it is best to choose your projects before choosing your tools.

With both Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen the resale value is close to the cost of new. If you do not like a choice it can be resold without the lesson costing a lot.

A chisel plane is a very specialized tool most people do quite well with out ever owning.

The #5 size plane is often referred to as a jack plane. That is in reference to "Jack of all trades." It can be used like a jointer, a smoother, a try plane or a scrub plane. Some of those configurations might require a different blade. Blades and chip breakers are relatively cheap. A minimum of two blades would have one with a little radius for a scrub blade and then one with a closer to square profile for all the other needs. A fresh sharpening before smoothing would produce a good surface.

Paul Sellers is often quoted as saying a #4 can do it all. Again, different blades for different modes would be the easy way to go from scrub to smoother.

Jointing an edge with a #4 or #5 would take a bit more care than if you were using a #7, but that is how things get done in a smaller shop.

For a smaller jack plane the #5-1/4 is my preferred plane.

A rabbet plane is a useful plane to have but the work can often be done with a more versatile plow plane.

A router plane can be handy if one is making shelves or cabinets requiring a lot of dado work. This can also be done with a chisel which can be faster in some cases.

jtk

[Chris Hachet]

A #4 size sounds like what you need. You'll have a hard time finding anything new outside of the "premium" brands worth having, but there are several reputable dealers online from whom you can buy a fettled vintage user. Get 3 sets of blade/chipbreaker for it and set them up with 3 different cambers.Even then, sometimes Wood Craft runs sales on their #4. Dollar for dollar, not a bad plane for a beginner. At the same time, no where near as nice as the Veritas and Lie Nielsen planes.

[Barney Markunas]

You've set yourself a bit of a challenge if you don't want to fettle an older plane and you don't want to invest in a Veritas (I am assuming Clifton and Lee Valley would also fall into the "arm and a leg" category). There is very rarely a free lunch. You can save money but have to spend some time, or save some effort and buy something that is pretty much good to go.

What are you building? The advice you've received about let your project dictate your purchase makes complete sense. I would suggest buying one good new plane and become friends with it. If your project is smaller (say some sort of box) opt for a smoother (equivalent to a Stanley No. 3 or a 4). If it is larger then consider going to a 4 or 5 (or maybe a 51/4 though those tend to carry a bit of a price premium). A reasonable case can be made for both bevel up and bevel down. You can successfully cover an awful lot of ground with a jack plane (maybe with a spare blade or two) and a low angle block plane.

How are you holding your work? That is an issue you will want to resolve if you have any hope of being successful with a plane.

Good luck with your purchase.

[andy bessette]

Start with a low angle block plane with adjustable throat, a jack plane plus a small rabbeting plane.

Buy quality, used planes, not brand new or vintage.

[Dave Parkis]

Dollar for dollar, I don't think you can beat vintage tools. There are several folks here (myself included) that sell tools that have had the fettling done when sold. You can get get a good #4, #5, and and a low angle block plane approximately $125 plus shipping. IMHO this beats buying blind from eBay sellers. As others have suggested, you should let the type of work you want to do dictate the tools you buy. Good luck!!

[allen long]

If you can find a good deal on a No. 3 get it. It will serve nearly as well as a number for smoothing. I love using my No.3

[Barney Markunas]

My apologies for my accidental redundancy. I managed to type Lee Valley when I should have typed Lie-Nielsen when I was referring to the well made current plane options. The OP's reference to Veritas already touched the Lee Valley base.

[andy bessette]

Generally it would be wise to avoid buying vintage tools that have been refurbished by amateur tool refurbishers/re-sellers. If you really must have vintage tools, then do your own due diligence and buy quality/condition. Or refurbish them yourself, once you have become informed.

[Chris Hachet]

Dollar for dollar, I don't think you can beat vintage tools. There are several folks here (myself included) that sell tools that have had the fettling done when sold. You can get get a good #4, #5, and and a low angle block plane approximately $125 plus shipping. IMHO this beats buying blind from eBay sellers. As others have suggested, you should let the type of work you want to do dictate the tools you buy. Good luck!!Agree on finding a well fettled plane....

[steven c newman]

Might ask Chris where he got his refurbished planes at......as I have 6+ years of doing such work.

#3 or #4? Hand size would determine that. Start with the $5 Jack Plane.....a #3, or #4 Smooth plane, and you already have a block plane. Brand new, ready to go out of the box? There is a fellow on here that pushes the WoodRiver line of planes...

As for my own USERS..
356772
All I use are Stanleys and Millers Falls made planes From a few #3 sized planes, up to a couple of those #7 planes. There are THREE Low Angle Block planes in the top row. One is a Stanley( that empty slot shows it IS in use) and a pair of Millers falls.

#5s can be had cheaply enough, that instead of buying a bunch of blades, and messing around with setting each blade, I simply have a #5 for each job. Why stop to change out a blade and reset things back up, when I can merely set one jack plane down, and pick up the next one I need. The #7 is nice for long length boards..but if the board are shorter than the plane, it becomes a PITA to use. I can use the length of plane to suit a job.....from the #7 down to the 11" long #5-1/4plane. All depends on the size of the work I am doing. At one time, I did have a #8 Jointer....was too big for my shop....in fact, I have a Stanley 31, about the same size as a #8 that I rarely use.

Chisel plane? Build one, all you need is a block of wood and a decent sized chisel, or a spare plane iron.

I still have a standing offer: Send any plane(s) to my shop, I will refurbish them back to like new, and send them back as fast as I can. Cost is only for postage both ways, as I will reuse the shipping box they came in.

[Hasin Haroon]

That's a very generous offer, OP, this might be your best bet....I've had a few planes that needed quite a few hours work to get set up!

[Mark Fisher]

Get a decent Stanley #5 and #4 (or #3) from a dealer or an Ebayer with experience with used planes. They aren't that expensive and it sounds like you can flatten and sharpen so I think you are set. You can probably get 8-10 good used planes for the price of a LN. That said, LN is pretty sweet. I'm sure Veritas is nice too.

[Allen Jordan]

When starting out, I think getting one good plane is better than being frustrated trying to fettle an old plane. It will give you a good feeling of how a quality plane works, letting you do good work with less experience. Then restoring becomes a process of trying to get old planes to the same level.

[steven c newman]

Usual myth.......getting a ready to go high end plane to start out will teach the beginner...NOTHING. Except to open a fancy box. Which anyone can already do.

[Chris Hachet]

That's a very generous offer, OP, this might be your best bet....I've had a few planes that needed quite a few hours work to get set up!Planes that have been through Stevens hands work very well.I have two number fours, a number five, a number seven and a number six he has helped me with. The man has a very, very good knowledge of planes.

[Scott Archi]

All good advice. I'm trying to figure out what applies to me as I'm getting pointed in a few different directions.

[andy bessette]

Be patient and your woodworking will tell you which plane you need. Watch for deals on quality tools, so you can make the most of your budget.

[Matthew Hills]

Usual myth.......getting a ready to go high end plane to start out will teach the beginner...NOTHING. Except to open a fancy box. Which anyone can already do.
The goal is to help establish a point of reference for subsequent acquisitions/refurbs.
There are other ways to do this -- if you have someone local with a set of well-tuned planes, or if there is some crazy-generous guy on forum who offers to tune your refurbs...

But either way, there will still be some learning you have to do yourself...

The planes I use the most:
1970's stanley #5 beater, with heavily-cambered Hock blade -- I love how well this works for flattening
old stanley #7 (Hock blade, minimal camber) -- flattening
LN #4 -- smoothing. Like it; works well.
I've also got a LV LAJ with flat blade for shooting and edge jointing.

Matt

[Chris Hachet]

The goal is to help establish a point of reference for subsequent acquisitions/refurbs.
There are other ways to do this -- if you have someone local with a set of well-tuned planes, or if there is some crazy-generous guy on forum who offers to tune your refurbs...

But either way, there will still be some learning you have to do yourself...

The planes I use the most:
1970's stanley #5 beater, with heavily-cambered Hock blade -- I love how well this works for flattening
old stanley #7 (Hock blade, minimal camber) -- flattening
LN #4 -- smoothing. Like it; works well.
I've also got a LV LAJ with flat blade for shooting and edge jointing.

MattMy #5 Beater is a 1920's type 13 Stanley with a Hock blade, it is a wonderful plane that I have used for 30 years. This brings up one more good point-You have both new and older planes in your collection. The OP should try both the old stuff and the new stuff before buying a bunch of tools. They have a distinctly different feel in use and he may prefer one over the other, or prefer (as you and I do) to have both.

In terms of the actual work it accomplishes, I would not want to trade my $12 (in 1980's) #5 for a New Lie Nielsen #5. For general purpose work, it is lighter and more nimble and more like driving a sports car than driving a truck when it is on the bench making shavings...ymmv...

[Prashun Patel]

Usual myth.......getting a ready to go high end plane to start out will teach the beginner...NOTHING. Except to open a fancy box. Which anyone can already do.

With due respect to your experience, I disagree with this statement. I learned a good deal from my Veritas and LN's. I learned how effortlessly a plane can and should work. That knowledge gave me valuable points of reference for all the parts of a plane.

I will say, though, that this has paled in comparison to being able to take an in-person class. Having someone diagnose your set up and efforts was priceless to learning how to plane properly (as if I'm doing it properly now...).

[Chris Hachet]

With due respect to your experience, I disagree with this statement. I learned a good deal from my Veritas and LN's. I learned how effortlessly a plane can and should work. That knowledge gave me valuable points of reference for all the parts of a plane.

I will say, though, that this has paled in comparison to being able to take an in-person class. Having someone diagnose your set up and efforts was priceless to learning how to plane properly (as if I'm doing it properly now...).

..and we need to be careful not to make this seem like an overly complicated process. The best thing the Op can do is get a plane and start working scrap wood. he will figure it out with a little bit of persistence.

That being said, taking classes was one of the best things I did for my wood working. I remember little things from classes I took almost 30 years ago, and it is still pushing me forward in my woodworking.

[steven c newman]

Anyone passing through my area is more than welcomed to stop in, and try both their NIB plane AND and plane or three older than I am. Be glad to show them HOW to set their plane up and how to use it.

Since I doubt a Brand new plane also has a "How-to" manual packed in the box with it......who will be there to show them how? One can read all they want, here and other places, but once the plane is in their hands?

At least with a rehabbed, set up old plane, the learning curve isn't quite so steep.

Have also noticed...placing a new, thicker blade in an older plane as a "cure-all" for not actually set the plane up right.......more actual trouble than the $ is worth. Set up the plane the way it was designed to work.
Note: All of the Millers Falls planes in my shop still have their original irons...and not one has ever "chattered"
356799356800
A #14,#11, #9, and the #8 ( stanley sizes: #5, #5-1/4, #4 and #3) can't find a better set.

[John C Cox]

So Scott....

Let's ask an important question before we go on too far down the road.

Whats your hobby? Do you want a hobby of rehabbing old planes or do you want a hobby of doing woodwork.

Neither of these is a wrong answer... But it's good to be honest with yourself.

So.. Assuming you have valid reasons not wanting to get into rehabbing old rust... Trust me - you have not made a bad decision here. I spent probably the better part of a year fettling old rust before I came to my senses and realized I was not actually doing any woodworking.

Knowing all that - here's is where I would go...

Decide on which sort of woodwork projects interest you. Use that as a driver for your tool purchases...

If you decide you really like bowl or pen turning - there's not much use for a plane until you start getting into the fancy segmented turnings.
Chip carving - nope.. I wouldn't start with any planes.
Chairs - block plane or spoke shave.
If you decide you are more interested in small boxes - a block plane is a good place to start.
Musical instruments - block plane
Inlay work - block plane or scraper plane.
Tables and larger boxes - probably a #4 and #5

Next - decide your budget. You can drop a huge amount of $$$$ on tools before you really know what you want/need.

Brand wise - new... New production Stanley has been pretty decent stuff for me. They are probably the best value for their cost.. And you can get in the door pretty cheap.

Next - Woodcraft's wood river. Also generally a very good value for the price. They are flatter and have better adjusters than the Stanley's.

Next up - Clifton, Lie Nielsen, and Veritas. Very good stuff. Very well made. Generally nothing needed except for adjustments and sharpening the iron.

Thanks

[Simon MacGowen]

Since you have a block plane and aren't sure what projects you would be doing, I recommend just one plane (plus one spare blade or two):

The Veritas Low Angle Jack - http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=49708&cat=1,41182,41186,49708

If your budget is an issue and can't follow the best approach to buying tools (Buy the best you can afford), go for a LAJ from a cheaper source.

Why LAJ?

It can do all planing jobs from jointing. flattening, smoothing, shooting and even scrubbing (with a heavy cambered blade because it is low angle). When handling difficult grain, use a high angle blade and that is where the spare blade comes in. It is a jack of all trades and it will be used more than most other planes if you're into furniture building.

Each plane user has their favorites and mine is the LAJ. It is no longer much used as a shooter as I have got the shooting plane as a gift.

Not all LAJs are made the same and you must examine different brands to see what features you want most. After using three different of them for an extended period of time (that was before Wood River's time), I settled with the Veritas which also offers second-to-none customer service.

Simon

[Scott Archi]

So Scott....

Let's ask an important question before we go on too far down the road.

Whats your hobby? Do you want a hobby of rehabbing old planes or do you want a hobby of doing woodwork.

Neither of these is a wrong answer... But it's good to be honest with yourself.

So.. Assuming you have valid reasons not wanting to get into rehabbing old rust... Trust me - you have not made a bad decision here. I spent probably the better part of a year fettling old rust before I came to my senses and realized I was not actually doing any woodworking.

Knowing all that - here's is where I would go...

Decide on which sort of woodwork projects interest you. Use that as a driver for your tool purchases...

If you decide you really like bowl or pen turning - there's not much use for a plane until you start getting into the fancy segmented turnings.
Chip carving - nope.. I wouldn't start with any planes.
Chairs - block plane or spoke shave.
If you decide you are more interested in small boxes - a block plane is a good place to start.
Musical instruments - block plane
Inlay work - block plane or scraper plane.
Tables and larger boxes - probably a #4 and #5

Next - decide your budget. You can drop a huge amount of $$$$ on tools before you really know what you want/need.

Brand wise - new... New production Stanley has been pretty decent stuff for me. They are probably the best value for their cost..

Thanks


John thank you for this reply as it is most helpful. I guess I shouldn't be jumping to tool purchasing before I know what I'm working on but at work as a millwright apprentice we bring a lot of tools with us to the job and only use a small amoun,t but if we need something it is right there. Maybe this is where I'm getting the mentality of purchasing a lot of tools and having them sit here.

Why I don't want to play with old planes is because I did straight razor restoration for a long time. I spent hours upon hours doing this and it was fun but it took up a huge chunk of my free time I could have been spending with my wife and dog. I don't want to invest boat loads of time fixing up old planes right now. It's not that I can't do it and in the future I might just right now is a very busy time for me.

I do not want to do any turning. Did enough metal turning and i dont have room for a lathe.

I will mostly be building tables, benches boxes and other furniture. Chairs could be fun too I could see myself doing that. I will mostly be working with pine now because it's cheap.

I am borrowing my dads block plane for now but maybe should get one for myself.

I heard new production Stanley (even the sweetheart) wasn't good and could not be used for working wood. Which Stanley's would you reccomend?

Lots to to think about. .

[Chris Hachet]

Anyone passing through my area is more than welcomed to stop in, and try both their NIB plane AND and plane or three older than I am. Be glad to show them HOW to set their plane up and how to use it.

Since I doubt a Brand new plane also has a "How-to" manual packed in the box with it......who will be there to show them how? One can read all they want, here and other places, but once the plane is in their hands?

At least with a rehabbed, set up old plane, the learning curve isn't quite so steep.

Have also noticed...placing a new, thicker blade in an older plane as a "cure-all" for not actually set the plane up right.......more actual trouble than the $ is worth. Set up the plane the way it was designed to work.
Note: All of the Millers Falls planes in my shop still have their original irons...and not one has ever "chattered"
356799356800
A #14,#11, #9, and the #8 ( stanley sizes: #5, #5-1/4, #4 and #3) can't find a better set.That photograph si a site for Friday! Millers Falls made a darned nice plane.

[Chris Hachet]

John thank you for this reply as it is most helpful. I guess I shouldn't be jumping to tool purchasing before I know what I'm working on but at work as a millwright apprentice we bring a lot of tools with us to the job and only use a small amoun,t but if we need something it is right there. Maybe this is where I'm getting the mentality of purchasing a lot of tools and having them sit here.

Why I don't want to play with old planes is because I did straight razor restoration for a long time. I spent hours upon hours doing this and it was fun but it took up a huge chunk of my free time I could have been spending with my wife and dog. I don't want to invest boat loads of time fixing up old planes right now. It's not that I can't do it and in the future I might just right now is a very busy time for me.

I do not want to do any turning. Did enough metal turning and i dont have room for a lathe.

I will mostly be building tables, benches boxes and other furniture. Chairs could be fun too I could see myself doing that. I will mostly be working with pine now because it's cheap.

I am borrowing my dads block plane for now but maybe should get one for myself.

I heard new production Stanley (even the sweetheart) wasn't good and could not be used for working wood. Which Stanley's would you reccomend?

Lots to to think about. .I have the new production Stanley Sweetheart and it is a really decent plane. If you have the mechanical sense to be a millwrights apprentice a plane should be child's play for you.

What is good about the new sweetheart-

Norris style Adjsuter makes adjustment intuitive IMHO.

Frog is cast into the plane body and is very stable if you are planing very hard wood, mine loves Hickory and Purpleheart like there is no tomorrow.

Mouth adjustment is very smooth.

It is a hundred dollars cheaper than the LN or Veritas Bevel up #5.

Mapllable Iron so will not shatter if dropped on the floor like an older plane.

Machining on my plane was pretty good. Edge retention is decent but not spectacular for the blade.

Blade will take a really nice edge.

Handle is a comfortable shape, at least in my hands.

It is no Lie Nielsen #4, though it does a fine job.

Also, if you are building with pine because it is cheap you might consider finding a small sawmill or someone who has excess hardwood stock. I just bought a bunch of 8/4 Oak cheaper than SYP for a workbench from another woodworker....cheaper than SYP would have been.

A vintage plane should not take weeks to restore, clean up, sharpening, lubricate a few things and you should be off to the races. Don't think that a plane needs to have concourse work done on it to be a good user.

Just a few random thoughts.

[Chris Hachet]

Since you have a block plane and aren't sure what projects you would be doing, I recommend just one plane (plus one spare blade or two):

The Veritas Low Angle Jack - http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=49708&cat=1,41182,41186,49708

If your budget is an issue and can't follow the best approach to buying tools (Buy the best you can afford), go for a LAJ from a cheaper source.

Why LAJ?

It can do all planing jobs from jointing. flattening, smoothing, shooting and even scrubbing (with a heavy cambered blade because it is low angle). When handling difficult grain, use a high angle blade and that is where the spare blade comes in. It is a jack of all trades and it will be used more than most other planes if you're into furniture building.

Each plane user has their favorites and mine is the LAJ. It is no longer much used as a shooter as I have got the shooting plane as a gift.

Not all LAJs are made the same and you must examine different brands to see what features you want most. After using three different of them for an extended period of time (that was before Wood River's time), I settled with the Veritas which also offers second-to-none customer service.

SimonThe Veritas is probably the best of the low angle Jacks IMHO....but the wood river plane is a fine plane. The gentleman I share my shop space with owns one, it is a very good user in its own right.

[Jim Koepke]

Whats your hobby? Do you want a hobby of rehabbing old planes or do you want a hobby of doing woodwork.

I enjoy both. Haven't done a lot of metal work of late.

Restoring an old plane can be done fairly quickly if one doesn't get overly meticulous. My restorations tend to get deep into the job and sometimes includes repainting and other things not needed to bring an old tool back to work.

My experience of restoring planes gave me a deeper insight into how a plane works and how to take care of problems when something isn't working.

I have also met other users who had "out of the box" problems at Tool Events. Sometimes a box gets bumped in shipment and something shifts.

jtk

[John C Cox]

I bring a lot of tools with us to the job and only use a small amoun,t but if we need something it is right there. Maybe this is where I'm getting the mentality of purchasing a lot of tools and having them sit here.

Work is different from hobby. Your work tools pay for you.... You pay for your hobby tools. ;)


I will mostly be building tables, benches boxes and other furniture. Chairs could be fun too I could see myself doing that. I will mostly be working with pine now because it's cheap.

I am borrowing my dads block plane for now but maybe should get one for myself.

The best plan for now is to keep doing that. Sounds like you aren't having problems because of a lack of tools... As you use it - you will get a feel for what you need and want and are willing to pay for.

I would use that until you have to give it back.... A new stanley will probably be about the same as what you are using now. If you find you are using it all the time - then step up a notch to a Wood River or better plane.


I heard new production Stanley (even the sweetheart) wasn't good and could not be used for working wood. Which Stanley's would you reccomend.

I have heard that too - but it hasn't been my experience.

You are getting very good value for the price. Their castings are generally good and only require a little clean up. If you get a bad one - send it back. Last one I bought was a standard Stanley block plane at Lowes (probably 10 years ago now)... It was very square and flat out of the box. The blade is good quality steel and sharpens easily without much work. Far less work than any vintage plane I have bought - which have generally all been way out of whack.

My complaint is their adjusters... They aren't smooth and clean tracking.

[Scott Archi]

My dog and I jumped in the truck for a ride and passed a surplus store. I needed a few clamps so I went in. Asked if he had any bench planes. He had a crap Chinese tool bench and an old Stanley.

$29.99 CAD I think all the parts are there. I am unable to post photos from my phone or I would add the photos I took. If anyone wants to take a look at it I can send pictures through email but everything looks to be in order. Bevel on the iron is mangled but easily fixable. Not sure what the other parts are?

i guess that quickly settled which plane to get first.

As much as I wanted a new plane you can't pass up on a deal like that.

[Pat Barry]

My dog and I jumped in the truck for a ride and passed a surplus store. I needed a few clamps so I went in. Asked if he had any bench planes. He had a crap Chinese tool bench and an old Stanley.

$29.99 CAD I think all the parts are there. I am unable to post photos from my phone or I would add the photos I took. If anyone wants to take a look at it I can send pictures through email but everything looks to be in order. Bevel on the iron is mangled but easily fixable. Not sure what the other parts are?

i guess that quickly settled which plane to get first.

As much as I wanted a new plane you can't pass up on a deal like that.


What model was it? I agree - never pass up a good deal on a tool

[Chris Hachet]

I enjoy both. Haven't done a lot of metal work of late.

Restoring an old plane can be done fairly quickly if one doesn't get overly meticulous. My restorations tend to get deep into the job and sometimes includes repainting and other things not needed to bring an old tool back to work.

My experience of restoring planes gave me a deeper insight into how a plane works and how to take care of problems when something isn't working.

I have also met other users who had "out of the box" problems at Tool Events. Sometimes a box gets bumped in shipment and something shifts.

jtkOne could look once again to both yourself and Steven Newman, two of the more productive hand tools guys here in this forum. Both of you find time for both...

[michael langman]

Scott, Try not to believe everything you read and hear.
I bought a used #4 Stanley Handyman plane for 15.00. It was my first plane. I flattened the sole though it was fairly flat to begin with. Flattened the part that holds down the blade, and flattened and sharpened the blade. This all took about 2 hours and got me familiar with the tool.
The plane takes translucent shavings in pine and is easy to sharpen. Now most people would turn down a Stanley Handyman plane as cheap, mass produced junk, but I beg to differ.
I have an older Craftsman #4 that looks just like the Millers falls version and and is a bit heavier then the Handyman plane. I leave that plane set up for roughing cuts and the handyman for finishing cuts.
Less the 30.00 for the 2 planes.

[Chris Hachet]

My dog and I jumped in the truck for a ride and passed a surplus store. I needed a few clamps so I went in. Asked if he had any bench planes. He had a crap Chinese tool bench and an old Stanley.

$29.99 CAD I think all the parts are there. I am unable to post photos from my phone or I would add the photos I took. If anyone wants to take a look at it I can send pictures through email but everything looks to be in order. Bevel on the iron is mangled but easily fixable. Not sure what the other parts are?

i guess that quickly settled which plane to get first.

As much as I wanted a new plane you can't pass up on a deal like that.It will become addictive once you get that plane working sweetly. And it will also speed up your woodworking immeasurably. Was joining up a few boards for a panel the other night....they didn't fit quite perfectly...a few swipes with the #7 I acquired off of Mr Newman and we were in business.

There is also the issue that sanding is dusty, and sandpaper is expensive. I buy very little sandpaper any more. You will find other benefits as well.

Also, hand planes seem to be like lost puppies...once you start showing them love, they seem to show up on your door step.

[Scott Archi]

What model was it? I agree - never pass up a good deal on a tool


It it doesn't say. All it says on body is made in USA and on the blade made in Canada. It's a blue colour and wooden tote and knob.

[Jim Koepke]

It it doesn't say. All it says on body is made in USA and on the blade made in Canada. It's a blue colour and wooden tote and knob.

The model can be determined by the plane's length and the blade's width.

The blue color (spelled different in the States) puts it in the 1962-1967 time frame of manufacture.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Wonder IF it looks like this one?
356813
The before...
356814
It had a plastic depth adjuster that I was able to change out..
356815
And, once it had been cleaned up, and sharpened..
356816
Just like a #4 plane should. Made in England.

[andy bessette]

Here are some of my planes. Most I have owned for decades. Many I bought used, like new. None required restoration, other than blade sharpening. The 3 blue ones on the left are Records, which are equal to Stanleys. 4th from the left is a Stanley; if you had 1 of those, plus a low angle block plane and a shoulder/rabbeting plane, you could tackle most common woodworking tasks.

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i414/yo-andrew/planes-1_zpsf653bd91.jpg

[Scott Archi]

Wonder IF it looks like this one?
356813
The before...
356814
It had a plastic depth adjuster that I was able to change out..
356815
And, once it had been cleaned up, and sharpened..
356816
Just like a #4 plane should. Made in England.



it looks similar.

[bridger berdel]

Usual myth.......getting a ready to go high end plane to start out will teach the beginner...NOTHING. Except to open a fancy box. Which anyone can already do.

For a beginning hobbyist with little shop time a ready to go user makes sense, assuming that the hobby is woodworking rather than tool fettling. Personally I find both quite satisfying, but I am neither a beginner nor a hobbyist.

[Jim Koepke]

For a beginning hobbyist with little shop time a ready to go user makes sense, assuming that the hobby is woodworking rather than tool fettling. Personally I find both quite satisfying, but I am neither a beginner nor a hobbyist.

What about the hobbyist that doesn't have enough funds available to purchase a decent new plane?

Buying only new tools can be a steep climb for many wallets. Especially when someone like Mr. Newman has offered to put a used plane in working order for them.

The claim of one not being able to do woodworking if they choose to fix up an old plane is unfounded.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Scott sent me some pictures of his plane to post. It appears to be a #4 type 20 or later:

356861
356862
356863
356864
356865

Strange, but one of the images didn't want to upload.

It shouldn't take a lot of work to get this plane up to its potential.

It is of the later dates of manufacture for Stanley planes. This is one on which I would have likely passed. That is just my opinion. Many have reported great results with planes from this time period in Stanley's production.

jtk

[Mark Fisher]

I do think that starting by fixing up an old, complete plane is a good plan so long as you have the patience. I learned a lot about what makes a plane work well by doing this. Starting with a new plane, it will allow you to get started right away without worrying about the quality of the plane, but you also won't learn anything. I'm a mechanical engineer so I prefer to understand what makes something work well. Others may have different priorities or patience.

[Scott Archi]

Got the plane blade sharpened, whoever had this before me put a 2mm "micro" bevel on it and it had chips fairly deep in it. I assume it hit a few nails. Took a while to grind it flat on my DMT C. Once it was flattened on the bevel and i could feel a burr on the back I flattened the back until the burr was gone. Worked the bevel again this time knocking the corners down as Paul sellers does in his videos on plane blade sharpening. Took the blade to my coarse India, fine India, pike washita and then my 8x2 Norton Hard Arkansas. Stropped on some green compound and bobs your uncle. I could shave with this blade.

I find plane blade sharpening comes very naturally to me freehand. I attribute this to my prior knife and razor sharpening.

I got the chip breaker flattened so it sits on the iron flat. Oiled all the screws. Put it back together. Not sure where to position the frog so I put it all the way back until it was bolt bound on the front of the slots. Put the cap iron on. Adjusted and took a shaving. Measured 0.002" but I haven't flattened the sole and will be doing that tomorrow. Other then that it's just learning the adjustments I think. This plane didn't seem to be very bad shape?? I thought "fettling" would have been harder.

Is there anything else I should look at?

Jim thank you for posting the photos for me.

Still on the hunt for a plane to true stock. Scrub or #5, #6 or #7?

[Jim Koepke]

Not sure where to position the frog so I put it all the way back until it was bolt bound on the front of the slots.

This could have your frog too far back. The plane of the frog bed and the back edge of the mouth should line up.

This might help:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373-Fettling-A-Plane-from-Junker-to-Jointer

Post #10 (depending on how your SMC viewing is set up), "Frogs to the left of me, Frogs to the right of me... " has a bit about setting up a frog.


Still on the hunt for a plane to true stock. Scrub or #5, #6 or #7?

An actual Scrub Plane like a Stanley #40 will set you back more than you might like. Many people set up another plane for that kind of work. My heavy scrub is an old junker #5-1/4. Yesterday I was using a #6 as a light scrub plane. Many use a #5 some like a #3 or #4. A scrub plane is usually used across the grain to remove a lot of material. A narrow blade with a pronounced radius works well for this. A wider blade with less radius will be more work to push. My heavy scrub can take two or three strokes across a board as fast as my #6 can be pushed across once.


Jim thank you for posting the photos for me.

Glad to be of help.

jtk

[Stew Hagerty]

Still on the hunt for a plane to true stock. Scrub or #5, #6 or #7?

Truing stock would be the job of a #5 with a cambered blade. Get one from an antique store, or on that "e" auction site. A #5 doesn't have to be as perfect as a #4 when used to prepare stock for the #4. It is perfect for rough work, and can quickly bring a board to flat & square. A scrub plane is handy for boards that are in extremely bad shape, but a #5 works nearly as well. I use my #6 quite often (although many don't find them as useful). I use it with no camber to go over table tops as a jumbo smoother following a few passes with a #7. I use a #8 as my go-to edge jointer.

[Scott Archi]

For smaller box making and smaller projects I can handle in my tiny shop, I think I will need a good block plane. I was thinking low angle veritas with the optional tote and knob which can make it like a #3 smoother if these components are added. This is well within my budget and means as a wood worker. Could I tune my #4 to take bigger cuts and straighten stock and then finish it off with the block plane?

I just don't want to buy a plane and never use it. Thoughts?

[Jerry Olexa]

If you have to pick two, go with a #4 bench plane and a low angle block plane. They will take care of 90% of what you need to do.

FULLY agree Rob...

[Matt Lau]

Scott,

How big are you? What type of projects?

I have medium hands, but work on smallish stuff. I like a block, size 3, LAJ, and size 7.
Really, you can get by with a block and size 4.
I know one flamenco luthier that only uses a block plane as his only plane.

A #4 can easily be used as a scrub--you may just want to have an extra cheap body and a toothed blade....although a Mujingfang would be great here too.

I may be a minority here, but I'd prefer to use a router on a sled or a planer instead of a scrub!
Then again, I'm probably wimpier than most guys here.

[Jim Koepke]

[edited]
I may be a minority here, but I'd prefer to use a router on a sled or a planer instead of a scrub!
Then again, I'm probably wimpier than most guys here.

My current project is a small bookshelf. The 1X12 pine boards for the shelf are a bit cupped. There isn't a planer or a router sled in my shop. my scrub plane, a high school shop victim #5-1/4, makes quick work of taking out the high side or belly of the cupping. Then removing the sides of the cup is quick work with another plane.

My understanding is it can be a bit tricky to get rid of cupping using a power planer.

jtk

[Scott Archi]

Scott,

How big are you? What type of projects?

I have medium hands, but work on smallish stuff. I like a block, size 3, LAJ, and size 7.
Really, you can get by with a block and size 4.
I know one flamenco luthier that only uses a block plane as his only plane.

A #4 can easily be used as a scrub--you may just want to have an extra cheap body and a toothed blade....although a Mujingfang would be great here too.

I may be a minority here, but I'd prefer to use a router on a sled or a planer instead of a scrub!
Then again, I'm probably wimpier than most guys here.

About 5'7", 155lbs but I'm still a young buck, 23 years old so I can put some oomph into the tool.

Honestly I haven't a clue what projects yet I want to make a some oilstone boxes, a coffee table, and a maybe just maybe a chair.. I understand I'll need a spokeshave for that though... maybe you can give me an idea?

I'm thinking veritas low angle block plane because I can add the tote and knob and use it in lieu of a #3 but also as a block.

Ive been thinking about gettting a jack but can't justify it yet. When I say I've got a tiny shop, I mean a storage closet. It fits my 24"x48" work bench but that's using almost the whole width of my space. I've got enough room to walk around but not the space I would like. I digress it's not about the size, it's about how you use it.... (I hope that one got some laughs, and some" that's what she said" thoughts)

My #4 as seen further up this thread is only "ok" as of yet but I can't pinpoint if it's my set up or the plane. Probably my set up.... but if nothing else the blade is razor sharp. I'd like to have it looked at but I can't afford shipping both ways to the states and back up here. I will keep at it.

[Prashun Patel]

Send that plane to Steven Newman as he offered. I bet he can make it sing for you.

"Honestly I haven't a clue what projects yet I want to make..."

I'd skip the Veritas Low angle block - even with knob/tote. From what I read (alert, have not tried) some people find it on the large side for a traditional block. A small smoother is really a special(ish) plane that not everyone needs.

Use your No 4 and your existing block. Don't buy anything.

Make your coffee table and oilstone box with that #4 and your block. You can do it.

Then re-visit this thread and let's see if the desire persists. I'm certain I'm projecting my own experience onto you and I apologize, but too often I get fixated on a particular plane, only to work through a project and find my focus has shifted to a new mortise chisel. I think the best advice is to do with what you have. Buy only when you realize you cannot.

[Scott Archi]

Send that plane to Steven Newman as he offered. I bet he can make it sing for you.

"Honestly I haven't a clue what projects yet I want to make..."

I'd skip the Veritas Low angle block - even with knob/tote. From what I read (alert, have not tried) some people find it on the large side for a traditional block. A small smoother is really a special(ish) plane that not everyone needs.

Use your No 4 and your existing block. Don't buy anything.

Make your coffee table and oilstone box with that #4 and your block. You can do it.

Then re-visit this thread and let's see if the desire persists. I'm certain I'm projecting my own experience onto you and I apologize, but too often I get fixated on a particular plane, only to work through a project and find my focus has shifted to a new mortise chisel. I think the best advice is to do with what you have. Buy only when you realize you cannot.

You are right. I will make my table and boxes and then if need be buy more planes. I often get fixated on tools too.

[Scott Archi]

So I haven't flatten the sole of the Stanley I acquired. I set the frog skewed because it didn't seem to be machined straight to plane body... set up a cut checking both side and making sure the shavings were equal size as measured with a set of vernier calipers. Got this shaving down to 0.002" on soft pine. I could not get a thinner full length and thickness shaving. Is this ok for the first set up?

When I got done playing around with the settings I found that my piece I was playing with had a massive chamfer to it. Like I was planing on an angle.

Wouldi I have to adjust my settings or body position? Im nice and set to where I can easily take a nice thin shaving and the sound is right but my piece ended up with a big twist and the edge I was planing was flat but / instead of |.

Thanks in advance guys.

[Prashun Patel]

All you can ask of your plane is that it take a full-width, thin, tearout-free shaving. The edge of the piece is the user's responsibility. Scribble your edge with pencil, diagnose and adjust your effort with each stroke.

Practice. You will get it.

[Brian Holcombe]

Scott, sight down the sole and see if the blade is protruding evenly. If it is, then your technique needs adjusting, if not then adjust the blade to protrude evenly and try again.

[Jim Koepke]

So I haven't flatten the sole of the Stanley I acquired. I set the frog skewed because it didn't seem to be machined straight to plane body... set up a cut checking both side and making sure the shavings were equal size as measured with a set of vernier calipers. Got this shaving down to 0.002" on soft pine. I could not get a thinner full length and thickness shaving. Is this ok for the first set up?

When I got done playing around with the settings I found that my piece I was playing with had a massive chamfer to it. Like I was planing on an angle.

Wouldi I have to adjust my settings or body position? Im nice and set to where I can easily take a nice thin shaving and the sound is right but my piece ended up with a big twist and the edge I was planing was flat but / instead of |.

Thanks in advance guys.

A 0.002" shaving is pretty good for starting out.

The blade has to be very sharp to get much thinner. Also the sole of the plane needs to be relatively flat. One test for this with a sharp blade take as thin of a shaving as possible. When the work piece is producing a good shaving over the full length use the plane without any downward pressure. If it is taking the same shaving as when you were pushing down on the plane then it is likely has as flat a sole as is needed for most work.

At times in my posts it may seem my shavings are measured to the point of obsession, but for side to side thickness it is more of how the shavings feel in hand. Besides, by the time you have measured a lot of shavings you get a good idea of how thick a shaving is without a caliper. With the plane set for a very thin shaving, a shaving from one side of the blade is compared to a shaving on the other side of the blade. When they feel the same the lateral adjustment is good to go. It is amazing how precise a measurement device our fingers can be.

My planing still gets a slope/chamfer on the edge of a work piece at times. Once all the saw marks are removed the work is checked for square. Then any out of squareness is compensated by tilting the plane and taking a narrow shaving along the high edge. The tilt is kind of guessed/felt by how much out of square the piece is compared to how thick the shavings are being made.

As an example, if the out of square looks to be about 0.008" and my shavings are about 0.002" my plane is held to take a shaving of about 1/4 of the width of the edge. This shaving is taken very carefully over the entire length. Then this flat is used to take the next shaving of about 1/2 the width then 3/4 of the width and finally full width. Check and repeat as needed. Others are sure to have their own methods to address an out of square piece.

Over time one of my findings was when there has been a lapse in my shop time my planing tends to tilt to the same side. With a bit of shop time my "balance" usually can be corrected to get back to "feeling square" again.

jtk

[Scott Archi]

Is it common for Stanley's of this era to have an uneven mouth opening at the front? Like jagged instead of machine square to the sole?

I am sure this is not one of Stanley's finest

[steven c newman]

Depends on which side of the opening. Might be from all the use it has seen over the years. Maybe take a file to it, if you want. Jack planes aren't noted for NEEDED a tight, square mouth. people that think they need a "New" Iron, wind up filing the mouth open, anyway. Is the "jagged" opening BEHIND the iron? Not a big deal, either, as the edge of the iron is what counts.

If you want, you can square the opening, all it will do is open the mouth further...

[Jim Koepke]

Is it common for Stanley's of this era to have an uneven mouth opening at the front? Like jagged instead of machine square to the sole?

I am sure this is not one of Stanley's finest

I have seen them with a ragged edge on the mouth from rough casting.

The era of this plane's manufacture was at the finish line in the race to the bottom. American plane makers were trying to out do each other in producing for the absolute lowest cost. Some of the current day offerings are even worse.

jtk

[Scott Archi]

Steven I don't think it's from use, judging by the minimal wear the rest of the plane with the exception of the poorly sharpened iron. It is a rough casting as Jim mentioned. I couldn't find the words to explain it.

Real shame if I would have known this I would have passed up on it.

Are the Stanley handyman any better? I found one in good condition for $15 CAD on eBay and bought it.

[Jim Koepke]

Are the Stanley handyman any better? I found one in good condition for $15 CAD on eBay and bought it.

The Handyman planes are not their best products but many find them to work well. In the time period they were on the market I would imagine $15 CAD was likely close to the price they sold for new.

From ~1907 - 1930 is considered the "Golden Age" of Stanley tool production.

For me the bargain years of Stanley planes is 1902-1907, type 9. They do not have a frog adjustment. How often do people adjust their frogs? They also come at a lower price than type than type 10 through type 13. My personal preference is for a low knob. Starting with type 14 a ring was included in the casting around the base of the knob. This makes it near impossible to use a low knob.

jtk

[steven c newman]

357322
This was a #5 sized Handyman I had a few years ago...
357323
They can be cleaned up, and sharpened. Nothing really fancy about them..

[Scott Archi]

Ok thanks for the info guys.

Today I played around a bit with my G12-220 Stanley Block Plane (Made in England). I ended up sharpening it again. Got 0.001" shavings with ease.

However I can't get these yet with my blue Stanley #4 and the edges are identical. I might try flattening the sole. See if it improves anything.

[Scott Archi]

Here's a little update on my progress. I've acquired some more tools since I last posted. A Veritas low angle jack with 3 blades, 25', 38' and 50'. I also acquired a marking gauge and some winding sticks. My Stanley handyman came in the mail too.

I tried playing with the winding sticks but haven't gotten the hang of that yet. The marking gauge will help my work immensely.

I just spent an hour or so taking shavings and making sure my blade on the low angle jack was in alignment and that both sides of the blade were cutting identical thickness shavings. Once I got it set I put it in its plane sock and put it back on the shelf. This plane is freaking awesome!!! Easy 0.001" shavings. I love the adjustable mouth vs moving the frog. It will make my joinery a lot better until I save up for a low angle jointer.

The handyman I recieved was unfortunately broken. The adjustment for cutter depth was broken someone had stripped he screw. Not to worry the casting was immaculate. I took the frog off my other Stanley from the 60's( according to Jim) since I find the casting on this plane heavy, rough and out of square, and put that on the handyman base. I got the mouth to where I wanted it and spent a half hour or so taking shavings and getting it set up. Learning it's ins and outs (not fully but getting more familiar). The great part is I now have 2 iron/chip breakers in case one gets dull in use I can pop in the other.

I am finally starting to get the hang of things. Lots more to learn.

[David Eisenhauer]

Sounds like you are having good times in the shop. Don't never stop.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

So I sold some of my sharpening stones (about $600 worth)

Sharpening stones, I like sharpening stones! :D




I'm not sure which plane to buy. A #5 jack has been recommended a lot reading through threads but I have a tiny workshop (will find the measurements, but it's in a one bedroom apartment so I can't bust out a #7 jointer on an 8' board) and don't have room to do large projects.

A #5 may be too large for my needs. While interested in furniture making I don't know where to start. A #4 sounds like it'll be good but not for taking off lots of material like a jack could. If i want to start with some pretty ugly stock and would need a scrub too and then would a #4 be enough to true it up?

I was also looking.at the veritas chisel plane in lieu of a rabbet/router plane.


My first hand plane was a #4. I own a scrub plane, and it is smaller than the #4. If you are thinking scrub plane, take a #4 or #5 and use a more heavily cambered blade with a wide mouth; especially since you are space limited.

If I were to cut back on my planes and I was choosing between a #4 and a #5, I would own a #5. I currently have two usable #4 planes (I send you a PM about one of them). I think that I have a third one in a box. it is new in original packaging and I have not had time to check it. I think I also have a #5 in the same condition. I do not remember how many usable #5 planes I have (could be two, but I just do not remember).



If i want to start with some pretty ugly stock and would need a scrub too and then would a #4 be enough to true it up?

I was also looking.at the veritas chisel plane in lieu of a rabbet/router plane.


Steve mentioned creating your own Chisel plane as though it was a trivial task... I am way to busy to complete all my tasks, but, this sounds like something to look into.