Sticky lateral adjuster on an old 606

[Matthew Springer]

I acquired an old Bedrock 606 and have been trying to get it back into shape. I bought it to sharpen straight across for use in a thicknessing jig for small parts, edge shooting etc.

I was wondering if anyone had advice for how to limber up the lateral adjuster. The rest of the various surfaces levers and wheels are disassemblable and cleanable, hence oilable, but the lateral adjuster seems to hold to the frog based on a peened grommet. I this case it seems WAY too tight even with no blade, cap lever etc.

Should I look at drilling it out and repeening? Or just wd40 it and hope for the best? Other ideas? I'm about 60% confident it's just rust and schmutz that's making it bind.

I haven't flattened the sole yet, that's waiting on some shop time and temps above freezing.

[Lamar Keeney]

My go to when I'm pretty sure it's just crud is a drop or two of mineral spirits or plane old charcoal lighter fluid. Either one has served me better than WD-40. If I have to get more serious I use 50/50 of automatic trans fluid and acetone. Tho toxic as it may be, it's still the best penetrating fluid I found.

Good luck and good find on the 606

[John C Cox]

Kroil and work it lots. It will loosen up. Generally a combination of wood dust, congealed oil, and a little rust make these plenty sticky.

There's no good reason to drill out the rivet assuming it will move. It's not like you are moving the lateral adjuster a whole lot..

[Mike Lemon]

Soak it in kerosene for a few days, maybe a week if really gunked up. It loosens up most stuck parts and it's only about $3/gallon.

[Dave Parkis]

Another vote for Kroil here. I have tried virtually every commercial penetrating oil I have found and none work as well as Kroil. As mentioned earlier, you might have to apply it a few times, but that's a lot less work than trying to repeen and a whole lot safer. Good luck!

[Pat Barry]

Any lubricant should work for this. WD40 would actually be my first choice. 3 in 1 oil would work. You start talking transmission fluid I wonder why you have transmission fluid laying around your shop. Mineral spirits are a fine cleaner for some things - rust isn't one of them. Charcoal lighter fluid??? Why in gods name you would use that?

Simplest answer is a drop of oil, let it penetrate, then work the joint back and forth and you will break it loose in no time.

[george wilson]

I'd leave the WD 40 alone. It gradually dries to a hard film. Simple fixes like Kroil are the best. Even mineral oil. All Starrett Instrument Oil is is high grade mineral oil.

Lots of machinists do use a mixture of transmission fluid and acetone. I have transmission fluid which is called for lubricating the carriage of my Hardinge HLVH metal lathe.

[steven c newman]

Over the years, I have dealt with quite a few "sticky" lateral levers.......A drop of 3in1 oil, then move the lever back and forth until it frees up. Then wipe off the excess oil, as it will collect dust and dirt..again.

Do NOT ever remove that rivet, ever. Because, when you go back to peening over the new rivet, there is a 90% you will wind up breaking the frog in that area.....cast iron hates being hit by hammers....:mad:

[Chris Hachet]

Over the years, I have dealt with quite a few "sticky" lateral levers.......A drop of 3in1 oil, then move the lever back and forth until it frees up. Then wipe off the excess oil, as it will collect dust and dirt..again.

Do NOT ever remove that rivet, ever. Because, when you go back to peening over the new rivet, there is a 90% you will wind up breaking the frog in that area.....cast iron hates being hit by hammers....:mad:

I would second this strongly....!

[Pat Barry]

I'd leave the WD 40 alone. It gradually dries to a hard film. Simple fixes like Kroil are the best. Even mineral oil. All Starrett Instrument Oil is is high grade mineral oil.

Lots of machinists do use a mixture of transmission fluid and acetone. I have transmission fluid which is called for lubricating the carriage of my Hardinge HLVH metal lathe.
WD40 Hard film? Of what? Do these machinists use Dexron II or Ford ATF? I'm sure that makes a difference

[steven c newman]

None do. You can even use Simple Green....as long as you clean up afterwards. A rag, or even a few "Q-tips" to wipe up any excess goop. You want the area as dry as can be. There will be a few bits of oil right under the lever, to help it slide around on the rivet, other than that..DRY.

[Jim Koepke]

As for transmission fluid, if a few drops were needed it would come off one of my vehicle's transmission fluid dip sticks. Then mix with a drop or two of thinning agent.

Otherwise silicon oil is my choice of lubricant for stiff metal joints. Something I have a limited supply of from my days as a copier repair person.

Most fixes other than copious lubrication will often leave the lateral lever too loose and a bit floppy.

jtk

[Matthew Springer]

Thanks gang, I was pretty sure drillign and peening was a terrible idea.

Thanks for the kroil tip, I hadn't ever heard about that. That, Wizard's polish and Boeshield are becoming go to rust preventers/undoers.

[george wilson]

Keep using WD 40,Pat. Eventually you will find out about the hard, unsoluable film it can leave.