Old Craftman Jointer, G0526, DJ-20 or G1018? Small Garage, Last Time I Ask, promise!

[Patrick Irish]

I 'feel' I need a jointer. Maybe so I have the woodworkers triangle complete, table saw, planers, jointer.

I have a lot of rough cut apitong and quartersawn walnut I need to square up to use.

I made a sled for my planer for the walnut and plan to make a sled so I can use my table saw and joint the edge.

BUT I feel a jointer would get used a lot. Locally to me I there are a few 8" jointers, a DJ-20 and a Grizzly G1018. Also a Grizzly G0526 with spiral head (6" jointer).

The dj-20 is $500+, the G1018 is $350 and the G0526 (6") is $400. All this are asking prices. I think I can get the G1018 for under $300 BUT it is a big machine right? I only have 1 220v right now but that's not a big deal. It's my dryer outlet and I unplug it to use my Unisaw.

What is everyone thoughts? Would the G0526 spiral head be better than an 8" knife head? I think there's a chance I can get the G1018 for $275. Will take up a good amount of space in my garage but once I move to a 3 car garage, it would be big deal.

Lastly, my dad has an older Craftsman jointer in his shed. It's likely 20+ years old and a 6". A free jointer isnt bad BUT it could be a pile and blades shot.

[Will Boulware]

Of the choices, a DJ20 for $500 is pretty good. You won't regret the extra width.

[David Sloan]

I 'feel' I need a jointer. Maybe so I have the woodworkers triangle complete, table saw, planers, jointer.

I have a lot of rough cut apitong and quartersawn walnut I need to square up to use.

I made a sled for my planer for the walnut and plan to make a sled so I can use my table saw and joint the edge.

BUT I feel a jointer would get used a lot. Locally to me I there are a few 8" jointers, a DJ-20 and a Grizzly G1018. Also a Grizzly G0526 with spiral head (6" jointer).

The dj-20 is $500+, the G1018 is $350 and the G0526 (6") is $400. All this are asking prices. I think I can get the G1018 for under $300 BUT it is a big machine right? I only have 1 220v right now but that's not a big deal. It's my dryer outlet and I unplug it to use my Unisaw.

What is everyone thoughts? Would the G0526 spiral head be better than an 8" knife head? I think there's a chance I can get the G1018 for $275. Will take up a good amount of space in my garage but once I move to a 3 car garage, it would be big deal.

Lastly, my dad has an older Craftsman jointer in his shed. It's likely 20+ years old and a 6". A free jointer isnt bad BUT it could be a pile and blades shot.


If you are doing to dimension rough lumber, you will love having a jointer. The only tool buying mistake I think I have made is buying a cheap Yorkcraft 6 inch jointer. I dismantled it and used it as ballast for my lathe. So go for an 8 inch and there is nothing wrong with just knives. Just my (humble) opinion of course!

[Andrew Hughes]

Apitong is some nasty stuff.If you have a lot to work I vote for the carbide insert head.Or carbide tipped straight knives.Sounds like fun.
Good luck with your search.Hope you find a good machine.

[David J Blackburn]

There's no right answer. As with many things, it depends on what you do. If you are more often working wood often that has a lot of reversing grain and the like and not using wide boards (or willing to handle wide boards with your planer jig), then the spiral head can be really great. If you are more often working wider boards, and don't need to worry too much about slight tearout and can clean things up after, like most of us have for years, then get the width.

For what it's worth, I have a 15-20 year old 6" no-name jointer (Fine Tools) that best I can tell is a clone of a Reliant jointer (down to the fence, but the same mechanicals as many others). I put a Byrd head in it the other day (that ran me $300 or so, in a $75 jointer), and it's amazing. The blades were dull and needed changing, so even if I had just done that, it would have been much improved, but the spiral head is great - it can take off slightly more without tearout and I really don't have to be too worried about grain direction. So the spiral head is a really great thing, but whether that's more important/valuable than the width depends on what you are doing. When I get around to it, I will get a wider one, but I'm not going back to the straight knives. The point being, both are great.

If you get the DJ-20 you can pony up for a spiral head in the future. If you get the spiral 6" grizzly, you can replace it with a 8" spiral grizzly (or whatever) in the future. Long run, having both would be great.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would go with the DJ-20, if it is relatively good shape and runs. You can upgrade to a Byrd head in the future.

[Chris Hachet]

Another vote for the dJ-20 here. What part of the country are you finding these cheaper prices in? here in Ohio that stuff would be gone rather quickly at those prices.

[Mike Henderson]

Go wide. You'll regret buying a 6" jointer. I have an 8" and wish I had a wider one.

Mike

[Victor Robinson]

If you can afford the 8" now, do it. Just skip the 6"...you'll want to upgrade it soon. Even if you don't joint anything between 6 and 8" wide, you'll appreciate the longer bed.

[Cary Falk]

Hard to say without knowing the condition but either of the 8" jointers would be fine. I would prefer the parallagram beds of the DJ20 but Delta is always a gamble. Both 8" jointers would have been gone by now if they were out here.

[James Gunning]

Another vote for at least an 8" jointer. I bought a Powermatic 6". It's a great tool and works fine, but it's the only tool purchase I regretted. Should have bought at least an 8 incher.

[Chris Hachet]

Another vote for at least an 8" jointer. I bought a Powermatic 6". It's a great tool and works fine, but it's the only tool purchase I regretted. Should have bought at least an 8 incher.


Pretty much my thinking!

[Bradley Gray]

I have an old 6" Craftsman and an old Faye and Egan 16". I probably use the 6" about 4 times as often as the 16".

if you can get the 6" for free why not give it a try?

[Chris Hachet]

I have an old 6" Craftsman and an old Faye and Egan 16". I probably use the 6" about 4 times as often as the 16".

if you can get the 6" for free why not give it a try?The old Craftsman King Seely models are very well built. They seem to work well when tuned up.

[Patrick Irish]

Seller of G1018 has it in storage and not access to 220 soooooo it can't be powered on. Can't imagine someone would go to the trouble of storing it with other large wood working tools if it didnt work. Thinking about offering $250 for since I gotta drive 45 and over a bridge, likely disconnect the motor, fence and separate it from the base in order to move it.

The free craftsman would be fine but the wider than 6" walnut boards I have would be a struggle to use.

I also really really enjoy finding deals and even if I add a byrd head to the g1018, it's still around $600 for an 8" jointer with a mobile base.

[Chris Hachet]

Seller of G1018 has it in storage and not access to 220 soooooo it can't be powered on. Can't imagine someone would go to the trouble of storing it with other large wood working tools if it didnt work. Thinking about offering $250 for since I gotta drive 45 and over a bridge, likely disconnect the motor, fence and separate it from the base in order to move it.

The free craftsman would be fine but the wider than 6" walnut boards I have would be a struggle to use.

I also really really enjoy finding deals and even if I add a byrd head to the g1018, it's still around $600 for an 8" jointer with a mobile base.

It may well run fine and with a little bit of creativity one can find used motors for the price of dinner at a decent restaurant. I doubt very seriously that the motor is bad, if anything a bad capacitor. Probably a reasonable risk IMHO.

[Cary Falk]

Seller of G1018 has it in storage and not access to 220 soooooo it can't be powered on. Can't imagine someone would go to the trouble of storing it with other large wood working tools if it didnt work. Thinking about offering $250 for since I gotta drive 45 and over a bridge, likely disconnect the motor, fence and separate it from the base in order to move it.

The free craftsman would be fine but the wider than 6" walnut boards I have would be a struggle to use.

I also really really enjoy finding deals and even if I add a byrd head to the g1018, it's still around $600 for an 8" jointer with a mobile base.

I found a G1018 for $450 for a friend. Just got done putting a Grizzly spiral head not to long ago. really simple to do and the only way to go if you ask me.

[Patrick Irish]

Called and wont budge on the the $350 asking price despite being a 45min and bridge toll away and not being able to power it on. Said he can get $600 for it....yet its been listed for almost two weeks. Said he used it 3 months ago, no problem. Cleaned the beds with steel wool too. The on off box needs to be re-mounted, got knocked off during moving.

Pic below. I can't decide. Be a hassle to head out there and find it's tweaked.

356318

[joe maday]

Go for the DJ-20, If complete, good condition and running..buy it.

[Patrick Irish]

How about a new in box DJ-20? No word on a single or 3 phase but it's new in box, never used.

Idea of what that would run? I was thinking $700 to start. A new 8" grizzly shipped is $900.

[Chris Hachet]

How about a new in box DJ-20? No word on a single or 3 phase but it's new in box, never used.

Idea of what that would run? I was thinking $700 to start. A new 8" grizzly shipped is $900.might be worthwhile. When I buy used tools I prefer to buy an in use tool that someone else has tuned to perfection.

[Patrick Irish]

might be worthwhile. When I buy used tools I prefer to buy an in use tool that someone else has tuned to perfection.

Well the son inlaw doing the selling said the father inlaw is asking $2,000 :eek: I said it wasn't more than $1200 new 10-15 years ago. We'll see. It's on pallets never assembled in rafters. They're gonna forklift it down and let me know. The fence and tables could be pitted and it may even be 3 phase. I'm not going over $500 for the 3 hours driving and potential headache.

[William Shelley]

Go straight for a 16" unit!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Baileigh-JP-1686-/262824755452?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

[William Shelley]

Go straight for a 16" unit!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Baileigh-JP-1686-/262824755452?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Looks like someone just bought the last one. Was it a forum member?

[Cary Falk]

NIB is still used if you ask me because there is no warranty. I have had issues straight out the box on several brands an in this instance you won't even to call Delta for any kind help or parts. $500 sounds reasonable to me.

[Chris Hachet]

Well the son inlaw doing the selling said the father inlaw is asking $2,000 :eek: I said it wasn't more than $1200 new 10-15 years ago. We'll see. It's on pallets never assembled in rafters. They're gonna forklift it down and let me know. The fence and tables could be pitted and it may even be 3 phase. I'm not going over $500 for the 3 hours driving and potential headache.If it is three phase, a VFD is an inexpensive and easy way to convert it. Plus, three phase motors are very robust. It is how I run my Unisaw. I actually prefer three phase tools.

[Chris Hachet]

Go straight for a 16" unit!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Baileigh-JP-1686-/262824755452?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276I would love to...someday...maybe next year.

[Chris Hachet]

NIB is still used if you ask me because there is no warranty. I have had issues straight out the box on several brands an in this instance you won't even to call Delta for any kind help or parts. $500 sounds reasonable to me.To me also. I would rather have a Powermatic 60 over a Delta DJ 20 any day of the week and twice on Saturday.