CerMark on Yeti style cups issues

[Jacob Pruitt]

Hello,
I use cermark LMM-6038 rather than the LMM-6000 to laser logos, etc on the Yeti style cups. The marking comes out fine, but it turns out a small percentage of them loose their marking over the course of about a month. Could it be an issue with the the 6038 rather than the 6000? Is it possible to "over laser" the cermark when initially putting it on? Any other ideas?

[Mike Null]

Jacob

I am more inclined to think that it's your process. Putting Cermark on too thick will result in the effect you are getting. Thin the Cermark with dna so that it is very runny. I can't emphasize that enough. You also want to be sure your settings are precise and the focus is dead on.

I use a fairly coarse rag to clean mine and rub briskly. If it's going to come off that will usually do it.

[John Kleiber]

You never know how many oily hands have touched a cup, even if factory fresh.
I wear rubber gloves during the entire process and wipe every cup with a lint free cloth and Acetone.
I use 6038 also because I am a firm believer in over doing things.
Anything worth doing, is worth over doing.

Also, consider lasing a cup for yourself using various power settings above and below your current. Scrub the heck out of it and use it around the shop and elsewhere.

The mark I make on the cup is the actual speed/power/interval test settings, that way the winning settings will be easy to go back to.

[Keith Downing]

I've never had any come off after the fact, and usually problems are fairly obvious at the time of production.

I second Mike's comment on making sure the focus is dead on. Also, make sure the surface is clean of any oils (including fingerprints!) before you apply the cermark. A light wipe with DNA usually does the trick. Then, after the cermark is applied, give it plenty of time to completely dry before lasering. This has made a big difference in the past for me, especially on humid days here.

If you're still having problems I would suggest you post some pictures of the cups after the cermark is applied, and some others after the lasering is done; and we might be able to spot something else that could be corrected.

[Jacob Pruitt]

I think my process is pretty good, and like I said, its only a small percentage of them that fail. I'll go through my process:
Use a green/maroon scotch brite pad to scuff up the surface, then clean with acetone (often there is some residual tape), and then a final clean with DNA before coating with cermark. The cermark, I cut pretty thin with DNA, i don't think i need to mess with the consistency of that at all. Also, I've done some stress testing and everything that i've tested is on for good, it seems, though, i haven't tested one thats failed yet, going off customers word.

[Scott Shepherd]

How is the customer reporting it failed? Were they washing it with soap and water using a soft sponge or using soap and water and a scotchbrite sponge pad?

Sounds to me like it's your customer washing it with something abrasive.