Finish for a Toolchest

[Steve Kang]

Hello,

I'd like to bounce my finishing plan off the readers here for some general counsel. I've built a toolchest in walnut and ash and would like to go with a finish that will take on a nicely aged/used patina over time. Ideally I'm able to keep the ash as natural/white as possible and showcase the grain and colour of the walnut. I'm thinking the best approach is to mix up some ultrablonde shellac for the ash and finish the walnut in amber shellac, all followed by a steel wool and paste wax rub.

Will this give me the look I'm after? Pale ash, walnut with "pop" and finished to a matte/satin texture?

[William Fretwell]

I for one would love to a picture! Sounds dreamy. Tool chest, walnut, ash, no picture! You must be some kind of sadist!
Post a picture for a suggestion!

[Steve Kang]

I for one would love to a picture! Sounds dreamy. Tool chest, walnut, ash, no picture! You must be some kind of sadist!
Post a picture for a suggestion!

Thanks for your interest Will, here's a recent picture. I've made a couple magnetic saw holders which will be mounted to the side and I still need to make a layout tool tray, otherwise it's pretty much complete.
356092

[William Fretwell]

Splendid job! Not the lightest woods to carry around but very striking. I would use pure tung oil rubbed in, three coats a few days apart. Very easy to touch up when it gets banged. The oil dries and hardens the wood a little at the surface.
Tung oil would give a dull sheen not a gloss finish.

[Prashun Patel]

I haven't had good luck with tung oil; it just remains too gummy for a long time.

My favorite is an oil/varnish mix. 30/30/30 BLOorTung/MS/polyurethane.

Sand to 600. Flood on. Wipe off. 2-3 times will give a satin finish that will take on the oils from your hands nicely as used and handled over years.

This is the best tactile finish I've found.

[Jerry Olexa]

The Blo will help the appearance of the grain esp on the walnut...IMHO

[William Fretwell]

I haven't had good luck with tung oil; it just remains too gummy for a long time.

My favorite is an oil/varnish mix. 30/30/30 BLOorTung/MS/polyurethane.

Sand to 600. Flood on. Wipe off. 2-3 times will give a satin finish that will take on the oils from your hands nicely as used and handled over years.

This is the best tactile finish I've found.

I've never had a gummy experience with the pure Tung oil. BLO can indeed be gummy as wiping off the excess is quite a task.

[Prashun Patel]

I have a gummy experience with tung oil - but then again, I've only ever used 2 complete bottles, one from woodcraft, the current one from Hope. Perhaps I don't buff as hard as others. I still maintain that adding some varnish does nothing but increase the protection and reduce the amount of tung oil coats you need to put on. A pure oil finish may look fantastic a couple hours after application, only to become dull a day later. The turned work I've used it on just drank and drank it coat after coat into the end grain.

Sure it works fine for most, but if you want an EASIER finish , then I prefer an oil/varnish.

[William Fretwell]

I have a gummy experience with tung oil - but then again, I've only ever used 2 complete bottles, one from woodcraft, the current one from Hope. Perhaps I don't buff as hard as others. I still maintain that adding some varnish does nothing but increase the protection and reduce the amount of tung oil coats you need to put on. A pure oil finish may look fantastic a couple hours after application, only to become dull a day later. The turned work I've used it on just drank and drank it coat after coat into the end grain.

Sure it works fine for most, but if you want an EASIER finish , then I prefer an oil/varnish.

Tung oil will become dull, so does BLO with time but it refreshes well and as the decades go on the oil moves deeper. Adding varnish will reduce the penetration which is why it seems easier. As the solute evaporates in the varnish it carries the finish to the surface. It's called solute migration. Oil just soaks in by diffusion and capillary attraction, no solvent to carry it back out.

[Steve Kang]

Splendid job! Not the lightest woods to carry around but very striking. I would use pure tung oil rubbed in, three coats a few days apart. Very easy to touch up when it gets banged. The oil dries and hardens the wood a little at the surface.
Tung oil would give a dull sheen not a gloss finish.


Hey Will, I think I'm after a dull or satin finish instead of gloss. Ideally the pores and grain would not be filled in, just popped with a finish. I have both shellac and poly tung (50:50) on hand so I'll experiment with both to see what works out better. chers!

[Prashun Patel]

Hey Will, I think I'm after a dull or satin finish instead of gloss. Ideally the pores and grain would not be filled in, just popped with a finish. I have both shellac and poly tung (50:50) on hand so I'll experiment with both to see what works out better. chers!

You seem like you know more about the science than I. However, I doubt the protective benefits of deep penetration vs a film finish. I've made cutting boards multiple ways: pure oil finish, and oil/varnish mix, wax. None seems to make any difference to the durability or stability. However, the OV is easier and takes fewer coats.

Again, I defer to your experience with tung oil. It's just been a bear for me. Ironically, because it is so viscous, I have applied it by mixing in mineral spirits or heating it. I wonder if these have been my culprits.