Turning platters --not Motown

[John C Bush]

First big platter turning adventure!! Walnut glue-up, 1 1/4" thick, lathe can handle 24", not sure about me!! Was planning to mount faceplate with appropriate length screws, turn bottom with recess for chuck and base/foot(~~1/3 platter diameter??? per reading other posts), flip and finish face. 1/2" thick?? I'm thinking a slight ogee would be nice and easier than aiming for a flat tray. I would be delighted with a 20" platter. Other mounting suggestions from more experienced folks would be appreciated. Thanks, John.

[Michael Mills]

Just another way, as taught by Jimmy Clewes.
Start between centers, steb would be nice. Cut a recess in the face (top side) for your chuck jaws. You do not need to turn out the entire recess.
Turn around in chuck and form the entire back side and new recess. For platters I prefer about 2/3 - 3/4 base instead of the 1/3 rule of thumb for bowls. So a 16" diameter platter would have a base of 11 -12".
Leave your center point on the back to align when you use a friction chuck to finish off the base. Should be able to get the nub <1/2" before you remove it and clean up with a chisel and sandpaper.

[John K Jordan]

First big platter turning adventure!! Walnut glue-up, 1 1/4" thick, lathe can handle 24", not sure about me!! Was planning to mount faceplate with appropriate length screws, turn bottom with recess for chuck and base/foot(~~1/3 platter diameter??? per reading other posts), flip and finish face. 1/2" thick?? I'm thinking a slight ogee would be nice and easier than aiming for a flat tray. I would be delighted with a 20" platter. Other mounting suggestions from more experienced folks would be appreciated. Thanks, John.

Frank Penta teaches platter turning and has a document you might find useful. This includes some methods to enhance the base, for example the Multi-axis base:
http://www.frankpenta.com/index.php/projects/projects/Frank%20Penta%20Platter%20handout.pdf/detail

This looks like another version of the platter info:
http://tidewaterturners.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Frank-Penta-Turning-and-Detailing-Platter-Bases.pdf

This page has other projects by Frank:
http://www.frankpenta.com/index.php/projects/projects/detail

This is one I did following Frank's instruction for the multi-axis base, Sapele, turned on a 20" lathe. Initially held on the lathe with a screw chuck (wormwood screw) in the center of the top (actually one hole centered and three for the multi-axis as per Frank), turned the bottom and base with a recess in the base, then turned around and held in the recess with a chuck to turn the top. Might be hard to believe, but a single wormwood screw will easily hold a heavy platter blank, even off-axis!

355840

PS: You can't hang out with Frank without having a texturing tool in your hand. :)

For another type, these are small "squarish" sort-of platters turned from 2" thick stock, about 9" across, turned the same way with a screw chuck then a recess:

355841

Good clean fun!


JKJ

[John C Bush]

I have turned some modest sized bowls(16+"s) and have gained confidence in the grip of the recessed chuck but wasn't sure of a large diameter platter. Higher rim speed but less mass so maybe no big difference. Is the "nub" the remnant of the recess?

Thanks for the help.

[Barry McFadden]

When I turn thin platters I glue a round tenon on the bottom side.. usually around 3" across so I don't lose any of the thickness of the blank and mount the other side with a face plate and short screws. When done the outside I flip it around and mount it in my chuck and turn the inside. After sanding and applying the finish coats I mount it on my jumbo jaws and turn off the tenon and sand and finish the bottom....

[John C Bush]

Thanks for the info. Looks like I need to go shopping for detailing tools.