Vintage Jointer question

[Mike Zozakiewicz]

I have a Sears 6" jointer model 103-23900. I have inherited this machine and am working on setting it up for the first time. I have two question: 1-does anyone know where I can get a manual for this machine? and 2 - as I am adjusting the blades I seem to be pulling them quite a bit out of the slots, how much of the blade should be left int the clamp to operate safely and smoothly?

Thanks for any help.

Mike

[Frank Hagan]

I didn't see one on the Old Woodworking Machines site ... but did see that the "103" prefix means your jointer was built by King-Seeley Manufacturing. See the page at http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/detail.asp?ID=497 for more info on that manufacturer. Their Sears publications page has a few manuals for other King-Seeley jointers, but none with that exact model number. But if you look at a few of these, you might get a manual that is close to your machine. The Sears Publications page is at http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Publications.asp?ID=222

You might also try stopping by the service department at a local Sears store. They have a lot on microfiche still, and may have the manuals still available. They did for an old outboard motor I was given.

[Dev Emch]

First of all, some of the vintage sears jointers were made under OEM contracts by companies like Parks Woodworking and Altas Press. Similar jointers can be found under these guys.

Second, if to much of the knife is sticking above the cutter cylinder, your going to get a heck of a noise called windage noise and the tips are prone to snapping off. You should keep the knive no more than 1/8 inch above the cylinder max. The larger jointers often use 3/32 in as a measurment for this.

Third, if the knives have been worn down, they get narrower and narrower. If you have a gib based head, the face of the gib should contact the full length of the knife over the width of the gib face. If less than that is in contact, then buy new knives. If you have extra knife below the gib, no worries. But if that gib is only touching 80% or 50 % or less, this can be a saftey issue. As long as the full clamping face of the gib is at work, you will be O.K.

Fourth, if your head is a clamshell head, then you need to find some OWWM guys and get a cram course on using these heads. My wallace is a clamshell and many early olivers from the 1920s were clamshells. I personally will machine a new head for my wallace. I think clamshells are useable but unless you know what your doing, they can also be dangerous.

[Mike Zozakiewicz]

I was able to find a manual that was close to my jointer. I believe I have a clamshell style cutter head, as it is not a gib style and uses 4 set screws set at a 90% angle to the blade. These screws sandwich the blade between a plate and the cutter.

I set the blades full into the head and raised the head so that the lowest set blade was even with the back table. Then I adjusted the two remaining blades. This was very time consuming as the blades would rise when I tighted down the set screws. But I think I finally got it. Tomorrow I will true up the front and back tables, then run some test cuts.

I am a relative rookie to woodworking -- I've built decks and remodeled basements -- so I truly appreciate the help.

Mike