Track Saw Prices

[Jim Dwight]

I use and like a DeWalt track saw. I bought it because I wanted a long and short track and I though I was getting the lowest price when I bought it 5 years or more ago. I like to read reviews, however, and have seen several that ranked the Makita as the better buy. So I did some googling of prices.

A complicating factor is track costs. A track saw without a track isn't good for much so you pretty much have to have tracks. But the question is which one. I see two supportable arrangements. You can go with two tracks about 55 inches long and join them when you want to make a long cut. The shorter tracks are both cheaper and easier to store and transport. But joining them is an extra task and a choice of possible error if the joined tracks are not straight.

The other arrangement is a ~55 inch track and a more than 8 foot track. DeWalts is 102 inches, Makita's is 118 inches and Festool has the widest variety but for this analysis, I looked at their 106 inch track. The DeWalt's long track is available for $159, the Makita 118 goes for about $280 and the Festool 106 inch was $331 the one place I looked. Pretty big difference. Makita's 55 inch track is $75, DeWalt's 59 inch was $72.65 where I looked and Festool's 55 inch was $133.

So if we price up a long + mid length track and saw, the Makita is $690, the DeWalt $600 (in a combo kit) and the Festool $1124. But if we price up two mid length tracks + saw, the Makita is $537 (with two track connectors) and the DeWalt is $576.65 (with one track connector), Festool is still over $900.

So is the Makita cheaper? Only if you want two mid length tracks, not a long and short. Festool isn't close regardless.

Price is not everything, probably especially to Festool owners. But most reviews indicate the cut quality of these three is very, very similar. The Festool has less power too but also a lot more accessories available. I don't think there is a bad way to go with any of these. But I don't think it's supportable to say the Makita is cheaper unless you clearly state you are comparing a setup with two mid length tracks. Even then the price difference is not very large. With a long and mid length track DeWalt is cheaper.

Just for grins I also priced up a Grizzly. They don't have a long track but with two 55 inch, they have it for $320 (with two connectors and the accessory pack). The reviews I've seen say even with the same blade as the others the cut quality isn't quite as good. But if you need a saw and don't have $500-600, the Grizzly could be a useful addition.

I'm still happy with my DeWalt - as I said earlier - but it is a bit heavy at times and the blade change mechanism broke (admittedly I tapped on it with a mallet when it stuck). I removed the pieces that didn't work right and I think it's actually better now. Blade changes are much easier. But it clearly is not a perfect tool but it cuts very well and I think it was a good deal. But the Makita has advantages and is very similar in cost. Those who want the best can go for the Festool (or other even pricier options). Those on a tight budget can probably get by nicely with a Grizzly. Nice to have choices.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Jim,
For my needs, a single 55" track is fine. BORG sells the Makita + 55" track for $397. Just the Dewalt track saw is $428 + $73 for the 59" track. So for my needs, the Makita is cheaper.

I think it just depends on what you need......
Fred

[Van Huskey]

Those who want the best can go for the Festool (or other even pricier options).

That would be the Mafell. Not the only important bit but Mafell has a system of track connection at produces a positive lock and dead straight rails everytime. The M55cc and two 63" rails will set you back about $1250.

The leg up Festool has over the rest is the integration of the entire system, I see it like a force multiplier. If you only buy one tool Festool takes a huge value hit, the more you own the better value it becomes. The Makita, Dewalt and Festool are all great tracksaws and if you aren't going to incorporate them into a "system" then pick the color you like best. Dewalt and Festool also have the option of a cordless version (assuming Dewalts is available now, not sure hen the release date is/was).

[julian abram]

After resisting the track saw bug for years, I finally bit the bullet and bought the Dewalt with long & short tracks a couple years ago. Most of my use has been cutting up plywood but I also straight line some rough cut lumber from time to time. For this reason I wanted a saw with a riving knife which the Makita saw did not have. I believe Festool and Dewalt are the only tracksaws with a riving knife.

[Patrick Curry]

I spent a fair amount of time online shopping these (prices and reviews) and ended up with the Makita. I wouldn't disagree with anyone else's decision since in my opinion since the 3 you mentioned all are well received .
I bought two 55" tracks with Festol connectors. I use the connectors all the time and have never had a problem with a straight edge so long as I set it up correctly.

I choose the Makita for the price, power, it connected to my HEPPA vac, and I could use the tacks for my router.

[Jared Sankovich]

I went with the Makita and two 55" tracks a few years ago. I finally got the 118 about a month ago. IIRC the saw and single track were 399. The 55s have been as cheap as $65 on amazon and the 118 was as low as 219 with free shipping. I missed out on that and paid 248 shipped. I personally went with the Makita because it allows all the festool track accessories to be used.

[Chris Padilla]

One of the best things about a track saw is the ease in cutting tapers to fit not-so-straight walls. They are fast and easy in this regard.

But mine gets most use in breaking down plywood on top of some 2" rigid foam plopped down in my driveway.

[Davis Young]

The Festool comes with a 55" track included with the saw so the saw + long rail + mid rail price should be $991, not $1124. The saw + 2 mid rails + 2 connectors would be $829.

[Frankie Hunt]

I bought two 55" tracks with Festol connectors. I use the connectors all the time and have never had a problem with a straight edge so long as I set it up correctly.

I have the Makita as well. I only have the single 55" track and would like a longer solution. I'm thinking I will get another 55" section and the connectors because of ease of storage and cost of the long track.

Why did you go with Festool connectors??

[Cary Falk]

I got a refurbished DeWalt from Tool King some years ago for $250. I added a 55" track for $63. I added another short track but found the connector a pain so I added the 102" track. The nice thing about Dewalt and Makita is around Christmas there is usually a $25 off $100 deal or something similar. I have always waited to around then to buy accessories. A friend of mine bought the Makita from Home Depot when they were closing out an older model. I don't remember what he paid for it though. The Makita has a better track to attach parallel guides and such. The Dewalt has a riving knife. Both cut wood the same.

[pascal young]

I have the Makita, it has been fantastic. The only issue is that I was never able to connect two 55" sections and maintain precision. The rails are slightly different. I ended up going with a 118" rail and have been super happy with it.

[Ben Rivel]

I started out with the DeWalt. Bought all the tracks and all the accessories. Was a great saw and good track saw system. Sold it all together as a bundle (for exactly what I paid for it new amazingly enough) and bought the Festool after I decided I wanted to buy into their system. Definitely dont miss the DeWalt.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have the Dewalt with both the short and long tracks.

In the five years I've owned it, I have only used the long track once, to do a rip cut on an ikea slab countertop. And I only did that because my shop is not at my house. If it was, I would've just used my table saw.

Theoretically, the long track would be useful to do straight-line rips on long pieces of rough-sawn hardwood, but I haven't come across a case when I needed to do so on a piece that long. I cut the material down into rough lengths before milling, so I'd have to be building a pretty giant piece of furniture to ever have a need to do such a thing... in which case, it's really not hard to simply reposition the short track once or twice to complete the cut. It won't be perfectly straight, but straight-line ripping is an intermediate milling step for me; I will take it to the jointer after the rip cut anyway (regardless of which track I use).

The other potential use is to do 8' rips on a sheet of plywood. But the vast majority of the time when I'm breaking down sheet goods, it makes more sense to do my cross cuts first. The only exception was when I was cutting sheathing for my house and cutting subfloor... which are rough construction work and don't require the precision of a continuous track.

On the flip side, it's a pain to store the thing. It takes up a lot of wall space. So for me and the work I do, in hindsight the value is just not there. Now that I think through this, I should probably sell the darn thing. YMMV of course!

[Victor Robinson]

I did the same math maybe 5-6 years ago. I was leaning heavily towards the Makita as it was the lowest cost of entry. I didn't make a conscious decision to buy into the system - it was more of a "might as well try this Festool thing I've heard so much about" and "YOLO!" sentiment. The system sucked me right in though and it has been worth it as a whole, though not necessarily if analyzed on a tool-by-tool basis for some of the tools.

As many have said, if your decision is just about the tracksaw, it may make more sense to head in a different direction from Festool. The markup on many Festool accessories - particularly those that are not unique or distinctly well-engineered (the guide rails being one) - can be difficult to swallow.

[julian abram]

One of the best things about a track saw is the ease in cutting tapers to fit not-so-straight walls. They are fast and easy in this regard.

But mine gets most use in breaking down plywood on top of some 2" rigid foam plopped down in my driveway.

Agreed. Track saw makes cutting tapers a piece of cake.

[Dale Murray]

I have a Makita and am extremely happy with it.

[Rick Potter]

I have the DeWalt, with long and short tracks, plus an extra long one Amazon sent me because the first one was damaged in transport. I use the long one the most, breaking down plywood, and have no connectors, nor have I needed any. It has room for improvement, but works fine for me.

I am confused. You say you have the DeWalt already, and it works well. If you are shopping price, why not just buy another DeWalt track, which would save the most money?

On the other hand, if you just want another tool, I understand that. I am a registered tool addict.

[Bob Falk]

I have the makita and love it. After planing I've been using the long track to rip a straight edge on long boards....much easier than trying to take out crook a long board on the jointer (and safer)

[Jim Dwight]

I read about track saws mainly because it's my newest major tool and I am still learning to use it better and more. Checking out the other brands is just about trying to see if what I have is still one of the best - both functionally and in price.

I did not intend to mess up the Festool price. I'm glad somebody pointed out I overstated it. But it is still the most. I understand the system argument but most of my work is in the shop. I don't normally keep the cases my tools came in and I don't think I would keep Festools in systainers. I'm not sure about the detachable power cord idea. Maybe that is a good idea. But the main thing is every single thing is much more expensive than other good brands. I guess I'm just too cheap. I'm sure I would enjoy them.

My long track goes onto the top of a wall rack of hardwood. You definitely have to figure out a way to store the track. It's longer than the ceiling height in my current shop, so vertical storage is not an option. I don't just have the 59 and 102, I also have the little 41 inch. I use them all. The long one both makes the long rips in sheet goods and straightens long lumber.

[andrew weldon]

I don't know about everybody else, but I have the Makita and find crosscutting full sheets of ply extremely frustrating with the 55" track. As soon as one of the two slack adjusters hangs off the track, it's inaccurate. I ended up getting the Festool 75" track and I use it for everything. It's thankfully rare that I need to rip a full sheet, but eventually I will need to get the 118" track (ideally..)

My original Makita 55" track also had the semi-common cupping problem that caused it to wobble along it's width, so that's something to look out for.

As for riving knives, I use the Dewalt at work and the difference between the two in terms of performance ripping 8/4 hardwood is negligible.

[Patrick Curry]

I have the Makita as well. I only have the single 55" track and would like a longer solution. I'm thinking I will get another 55" section and the connectors because of ease of storage and cost of the long track.

Why did you go with Festool connectors??

Shopping online, I was uncertain if the Makita connector included two rods; meaning one for the slot on the top side and one for the slot in the bottom side. The photos weren't clear nor was the description. I think the price was about a wash.

Anyway, using two Festool connectors has been easy to set up and the two tracks remain straight. I make 'long' cuts frequently in my shop but I doubt I'll ever shell the money out for a 118"

[Alan Trout]

I have had the Makita for a couple of years and it works very well. I have not had any issues with the 55" rail and cross cuts and I have not had any trouble with cupping of my 55" rail, but I do plan to add the 118" rail pretty soon. Excellent cut and accuracy has been very good with my Makita track saw.

Alan

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I bought the Makita and three short tracks during their after-Christmas sale. I paid $600 for the whole lot, including connectors. My issue is why do they sell connectors separately? Each track should come with one. I realize that some folks only need one track, but it just seems like the connector should come with the track. I keep the connector in the track.

The Makita was certainly the best overall value for me.

[Bill Dindner]

Very interesting analysis, there is a nice product by Betterly, that makes it easy to accurately attache 2 tracks, although this adds around $100 to the package.

I went for the Festool Tracksaw for 2 main reasons, the tracks work well with my Festool Router and Festool makes a Bigger capacity Tracksaw, that enables me to work on slabs much easier. If I wasn't already invested I'm the Festool system and I didn't want the extra depth of cut I would go for the Makita.

[Benjimin Young]

Hi Bill, I was told a Festool tracksaw can cut slabs with enough precision that you can glue two halfs together. What is your experience with cutting slabs, thickness, precision of cut etc?

[Jamie Buxton]

One additional parameter to judge is how straight the long rail is. A track saw that cuts a curved straight line isn't much use. My Festool long rail has about .020" of bow in it, and that is a problem sometimes. Unfortunately, no track rail manufacturer provides this really important spec.

[William M Johnson]

I owned the Eureka Zone system first, then moved to the Festool Ts55. Absolutely no comparison. No one is addressing the quality of cut issue. On plywood if you have everything setup properly there should be no tear out on either side.

On hardwoods you should have a "glue ready" joint. I have posted pictures of some table tops I built. I don't own a jointer. There are no gaps,or tool marks on the surfaces. I hate planing/sanding tool marks. The end grain jointing/cutting was done with the Kapex. Again dead right angles, no gaps and the end grain is shiny and smooth after the cut.

I own the Betterly connected and it is nice but not absolutely necessary.

Bill

[Rob Tolentino]

The OP was listing the prices on track saws. I'm trying to make a decision on one and this helped some. My choice is between the Festool and Dewalt. I own tools from both companies. I do not have any Makita products. The Festool (with 55 inch rail included) price is constant at $660. The Dewalt (with 59 and 102 rail kit) can be had at $586.

I have read so many threads from this forum and others, on-line articles and I have the FWW Tool Guide 2017. It doesn't help one make a decision, although it does make one more informed. I like the idea of the Dewalt because it comes with the longer track at a lower price (and I have Porter Cable routers should I decide to get the router attachment). I also like the idea of the Festool because the tools I own so far (2 sanders, Domino, dust collector) are premium tools. I like the idea of the MFT/3, but that is a lot of money. Another consideration is the weight of the saws - I'm not getting any younger. I don't use my tools professionally, but I do want tools that are well made.

Ratings on both track saws seem to be favorable. So confusing!!!

[Bill Dindner]

Hi Bill, I was told a Festool tracksaw can cut slabs with enough precision that you can glue two halfs together. What is your experience with cutting slabs, thickness, precision of cut etc?

With my Festool TS75 which is their larger model track Saw I've cut a few 2" thick Walnut slabs. Really nice clean cut, made shelves and only wanted the live edge in front.

Additionally, I've used it to true up an edge of rough sawn lumber after the planer, it was ready for glue up.