New bandsaw blade tension guide

[Kieran Kammerer]

Anybody tried out the new bandsaw blade tension guide from Monarch Industrial. If so, thoughts/comments?

Thanks,

Kieran

[Van Huskey]

I saw this about a week ago when it popped up in my youtube feed.

To get right to the point I really don't see the value if you already have a tension indicator on your saw, but it could be useful for those that don't such as some old iron saws.

Here is my issue, without a direct correlation with strain you still are left with an initial rough approximation (like you have with a tension gauge on a saw) and then you must narrow down the correct tension for a particular blade with trial and error. If you already have a tension gauge on the saw you can start with a setting on the tension gauge and when by trial and error you find the "best" tension for the blade simply record the indication on the saws gauge and you have the repeatability the Monarch gauge gives you. As best as I can tell from the videos and user manual really all you are getting is repeatability but no initial direct way of setting the tension to the manufacturers suggestion for the strain.

In the end I am at a loss as to what it adds to a saw with a tension gauge built in, which really only gives you repeatability anyway. If you want to go the extra mile of setting tension the "correct" way you need something to measure strain directly which takes out most of the blade to blade variables. Now if they provided a comprehensive chart relating the "Monarch number" to strain on a wide variety of blades then I feel it would be a useful measurement tool as it stands I don;t see it.

[Kieran Kammerer]

Thanks Van. They did mention including a guide with settings for bandsaw blades of various widths. I appreciate your comments and insight.

Kieran

[Van Huskey]

Thanks Van. They did mention including a guide with settings for bandsaw blades of various widths. I appreciate your comments and insight.

Kieran


They include a guide for the different widths (it is available for view in the online manual). Keep in mind the gauge and type of blade can vary the needed strain by a factor of up to about 3 with blades of the same width. I don't know how much this will vary on the Monarch scale but I would bet it would be outside their "range" for a .035" carbide blades. Maybe one day I will get one to play with...

In the end it give one repeatability (which you already have if you have a tension scale on the saw) but lacks the ability to deliver an absolute strain number which you have to determine at some point if you hope to ever set the blade up to the manufacturers recommendation. There are really two options to get the correct tension, either build a strain gauge with items you likely have in the shop or buy one from Zoro when they have a 25 or 30% off sale where a Lenox will run you about $200. Or do what most do and just do what feels right, but when you get it "right" either by feel or measurement just note the correct spring position for that model blade and you can simply reference that the next time you use that blade or one of the same model.

[Barry McFadden]

I really don't pay too much attention to the gauge on my bandsaw. I tension it so at a point about 6" up from the table I can push the blade with my finger and get 1/4" deflection. I have 3 different width blades from the same manufacturer and they vary a tiny bit in length from each other (possibly around 1 or 2 mm) so the scale would not necessarily be totally accurate. I know when I have 1/4" deflection they are tensioned correctly and perform well with straight cuts and no drift .

[Ben Rivel]

Yea neat idea, but a design like this would only help repeatably set a tension, without it giving an actual tension measurement you still wouldnt know if the blade is tensioned properly, just that it was tensioned the same as a previous time. If you want to accurately gauge the tension of a bandsaw blade go with Van suggestion and use a 25% off coupon at Zoro and pick up the Lenox gauge. Or if youre patient, keep an eye on eBay for the Starret model. I was able to get a brand new Starrett for $170. Very rare and I had been waiting and watching for years, but hey, it can happen. I have bought a lot of high end / expensive tools brand new that way.

[Van Huskey]

I really don't pay too much attention to the gauge on my bandsaw. I tension it so at a point about 6" up from the table I can push the blade with my finger and get 1/4" deflection. I have 3 different width blades from the same manufacturer and they vary a tiny bit in length from each other (possibly around 1 or 2 mm) so the scale would not necessarily be totally accurate. I know when I have 1/4" deflection they are tensioned correctly and perform well with straight cuts and no drift .

Bandsaw tension gauges work by measuring the compression of the spring not the distance between the wheels, variations in the blade length don't impact the reading of the scale, outside of very narrow blades where on some saws stiction in the tensioning mechanism can produce errant readings the gauge should allow for decent repeatability.

Though drift may mean different things to different people tension is not responsible for drift though lower tension will exaggerate blade drift as there is less beam strength to combat it. The issue with proper cuts must directly associated with low tension is barreling in the cut which produces a cut that is not flat but is actually an arc.