Gorilla wood glue vs. Titebond

[dennis thompson]

I have always used Titebond glue, but when I went to buy some I saw some Gorilla wood glue and thought
l'd try it. I have used Gorilla tape and found it much better than duct tape.
I haven't tried the Gorilla glue yet. What has been your experience with Gorilla glue?
Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

Be specific. Gorilla markets polyurethane glue, PVA glue, epoxy, and super glue.

[Mike Henderson]

I assume you're talking about the polyurethane glue. I've used it and it works fine. The foaming can be an issue and it stains my fingers. I use it for certain applications but I mostly stick with PVA because it's an easy glue to use.

Mike

[Steve Cowart]

I think he was referring to the Wood Glue, Its fairly new I think.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Adhesive-Weatherproof-Super-Strong/dp/B00LM1DE0Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1488989598&sr=8-7&keywords=gorilla+wood+glue

[John K Jordan]

I assume you're talking about the polyurethane glue. I've used it and it works fine. The foaming can be an issue and it stains my fingers.

A test a few years ago in one of the woodworking magazines showed this glue was not nearly as strong as Titebond or white glue.

JKJ

[Nick Decker]

I don't know about the Gorilla wood glue, but Titebond works great for me.

As for the foamy poly stuff, I can't think of any joinery that I'd do where I wanted the glue to expand the joint. The one time I tried using it ended up with a mess.

[dennis thompson]

I assume you're talking about the polyurethane glue. I've used it and it works fine. The foaming can be an issue and it stains my fingers. I use it for certain applications but I mostly stick with PVA because it's an easy glue to use.

Mike


Be specific. Gorilla markets polyurethane glue, PVA glue, epoxy, and super glue.
The glue I bought says " wood glue, no foaming,type ll,use indoor or outdoor, water resistant, dries natural color". I looked on Amazon and it says it's new, there were no reviews. The bottle also says"works with radio frequency gluing systems" whatever that means.

[Chris Padilla]

Polyurethane glues (Gorilla Glue's original product when they first entered the market) have their places. I'm not sure about the strength issue but they do have the ability to bond almost anything to almost anything. Below are some of my experiences with the Gorilla POLY glue:

One of the best things I found out about poly glues is with veneering. If you press a veneer and it doesn't come out so well (bubbles and such), you can just smear poly glue over the offending area, add some wax paper, and clamp it. The poly glue will soak through the veneer and reattach it--you don't need to slit the bubble and shove glue in there! It doesn't even matter why the veneer bubbled...the poly glue will stick it back down. Here is the next best part: when you sand the poly glue off the veneer, it takes finishes with no issues. I once had to apply poly glue on almost the entire surface of a poorly applied veneer (I was trying something and suffice it to say, it did not work) once. Upon coming out of the repressing, the whole surface was this opaque, milky yellow color of the poly glue. So I just continued hoping and sanded the glue off. Frankly, I was amazed I did not sand through the veneer. This was a commercial veneer so really thin. I applied my usual finish and the result were simply spectacular and made me a believer. That veneered panel is in my master bathroom and doing fine although I would not be able to tell you which panel it is!!

I will mention a failure I had and that was with gluing ipe. I sandwiched together a few ipe deck boards to make something thicker and decided to use poly glue as I'd heard that it handled oily woods well. Some of the pieces I glued failed and came apart at the glue joint. These parts were outside and exposed to the weather but I don't think they even made it 6 months before failing. I'll have to remake the parts again but I'll try TB-III--my standard wood glue.

As to Gorilla WOOD Glue, I have never used it. I would hold the GG WOOD glue in one hand and the TB-III in the other and compare them and see what you think. I'm sure the Gorilla product is just fine as my experience with the products has generally been good...except for their poly glue on ipe. :)

[Chris Padilla]

I don't know about the Gorilla wood glue, but Titebond works great for me.

As for the foamy poly stuff, I can't think of any joinery that I'd do where I wanted the glue to expand the joint. The one time I tried using it ended up with a mess.Excessive foaming is likely a result of, IMO, incorrectly ADDING extra water to the pieces being joined. Don't do it...the poly gets plenty from the wood and air around it. I know the bottle says to do this but trust me and just skip that step. Further, the foaming does not expand the joint...it isn't strong enough to do that. It is just a byproduct of too much water and poly glues in general.


The glue I bought says " wood glue, no foaming,type ll,use indoor or outdoor, water resistant, dries natural color". I looked on Amazon and it says it's new, there were no reviews. The bottle also says"works with radio frequency gluing systems" whatever that means. There are glues formulated to instantly cure when exposed to certain frequencies. You basically glue up your product and stick it in a mircowave oven type device (kinda sorta) and in 10 seconds of exposure, the glue has cured and is ready to go! Pretty cool, eh? I had no idea Gorilla WOOD glue could be cured like this. I always thought those were special formulations for industrial uses.

[Barry McFadden]

I have used the Gorilla Wood Glue numerous times and find it works great....

[Pat Barry]

One of the best things I found out about poly glues is with veneering. If you press a veneer and it doesn't come out so well (bubbles and such), you can just smear poly glue over the offending area, add some wax paper, and clamp it. The poly glue will soak through the veneer and reattach it--you don't need to slit the bubble and shove glue in there! It doesn't even matter why the veneer bubbled...the poly glue will stick it back down. Here is the next best part: when you sand the poly glue off the veneer, it takes finishes with no issues. :)
This sounds like witchcraft doesn't it? Almost too good to be true

[Mel Fulks]

This sounds like witchcraft doesn't it? Almost too good to be true
"witchcraft!?....one should know these are WEIGHTY matters and avoid being OVERLY IMPRESSED "
Cotton Mather

[Mike Henderson]

One of the best things I found out about poly glues is with veneering. If you press a veneer and it doesn't come out so well (bubbles and such), you can just smear poly glue over the offending area, add some wax paper, and clamp it. The poly glue will soak through the veneer and reattach it--you don't need to slit the bubble and shove glue in there! It doesn't even matter why the veneer bubbled...the poly glue will stick it back down. Here is the next best part: when you sand the poly glue off the veneer, it takes finishes with no issues. I once had to apply poly glue on almost the entire surface of a poorly applied veneer (I was trying something and suffice it to say, it did not work) once. Upon coming out of the repressing, the whole surface was this opaque, milky yellow color of the poly glue. So I just continued hoping and sanded the glue off. Frankly, I was amazed I did not sand through the veneer. This was a commercial veneer so really thin. I applied my usual finish and the result were simply spectacular and made me a believer. That veneered panel is in my master bathroom and doing fine although I would not be able to tell you which panel it is!!
That's very interesting, Chris. I've used poly glue on veneer bubbles because it sticks to anything but I always slit the veneer and inserted it under the veneer. I'll have to try your technique.

Just because I'm curious, how did you discover your technique?

Mike

[mike wacker]

My exprience with Gorilla glue its expensive and I just buy any of the other versions of the same chemical glue. Its messy and if you don't wear vynal gloves you'll have to wait a week or two for it to wear off your hands. The coolest trick I learned was to put parchment paper down under anything I'm gluing. The poly glue does not stick to it and you can peal it right off and reused the parchment paper time and again. As far as the foaming out of joints, time it right and you can slice it off cleanly when it is almost cured but not sticky.

[Barry McFadden]

My exprience with Gorilla glue its expensive and I just buy any of the other versions of the same chemical glue. Its messy and if you don't wear vynal gloves you'll have to wait a week or two for it to wear off your hands. The coolest trick I learned was to put parchment paper down under anything I'm gluing. The poly glue does not stick to it and you can peal it right off and reused the parchment paper time and again. As far as the foaming out of joints, time it right and you can slice it off cleanly when it is almost cured but not sticky.


I think people are not understanding what Dennis is asking. He is asking about Gorilla Wood Glue, which is neither messy or expensive. He is not asking about Gorilla Glue that foams up.

[Bill Dindner]

I was thinking about trying a new basic wood glue, but I'm happy with Titebond II, maybe it's just the tinkerer in me.

[Dave Lehnert]

The Gorilla Wood glue has been on the market for a few years now. I have used it and it worked very well. Not going to say it is better but at least just as good.
Another Gorilla glue product I have used with excellent results is their Super Glue. I built a few fretwork clocks out of Walnut and cherry that are held together with the Gorilla Super Glue. Only brand I now buy.

Just to be clear
Gorilla brand Gorilla Glue is the stuff that foams 355676

Gorilla brand Wood Glue is what the Op is asking about. http://target.scene7.com/is/image/Target/12731829_Alt01?wid=450&hei=450&fmt=pjpeg

[Chris Padilla]

That's very interesting, Chris. I've used poly glue on veneer bubbles because it sticks to anything but I always slit the veneer and inserted it under the veneer. I'll have to try your technique.

Just because I'm curious, how did you discover your technique?

MikeOur buddy Paul Schurch!! How is that for confirmation it works? :)

[Brian Tymchak]

I've used it and like it. It has all the strength I've ever needed, which granted hasn't been a serious concern for my projects, and it leaves much less noticeable glue line in lighter woods that TBII, which dries orangish, and TBIII which is browner. That said, TBIII I think has a bit longer open time, so if the glue lines don't matter as much, and the pieces are larger, I will use it. But for small jobs, GWG is my go to glue.

[Van Huskey]

Keep in mind the OP is talking about the Gorilla Glue BRAND of PVA not what most of us think of when Gorilla Glue is used which is a polyurethane glue. While I have not used the GG brand of PVA I have never been able to "see" any practical difference in holding power for any PVA, just different open times, water resistance and color when dry.

BTW Chris, thanks for passing on the polyurethane glue tip from Schurch thats one I have missed and will be VERY useful. Despite the fact it basically becomes invisible I always hated slitting veneer and if you had a lot of problems on a glue up it can waste a lot of time.

[Barry Richardson]

I concur with Brian, I use Gorilla wood glue now cause it dries pretty much clear, and in my experience is just as strong as titebond. I believe it is rated as type 2 for waterproofness, same as TBII

[Chris Padilla]

Weeeeeeellllllllllllll it looks like I'll have to pick up a bottle of Gorilla WOOD glue and try it out sometime...just to say I did try it. I'm very curious about the glue line color. I work A LOT of maple and it would probably blend a tad better than TB-III although glue line colors aren't typically an issue for me.

As to the veneer/poly glue/Schurch tip, there is a thread on here somewhere where I took a marquetry/inlay class that David Marks hosted at his place starring Paul Schurch. I picked up all kinds of little tips and trick there. Paul even purposely created a veneer bubble just to show us how to seamlessly take care of it.

Guys, I gotta tell you that I thought there was zero hope for the veneer panel I glued up because it was a wrinkly, bubbly complete and total mess. My heart sank when I took it out of the press. I basically 'painted' the Gorilla poly glue over the entire surface...full sheet of wax paper...cauls...and threw it back in the veneer press not expecting much. Like I said, it came out all opaque and this sickly yellow color and my heart sank further wondering how I wasn't going to burn through the veneer trying to remove this mess of poly. However, through some of the more clear areas, I could see the veneer was, indeed, pressed back flat. I figured "what have I got to lose" and I went about sanding all that stuff off. The only way I didn't sand through the veneer must have because the poly glue itself was helping somehow. It hardened up everything and embedded everywhere...or something. I am still shocked I didn't sand through it and further shocked how well it turned out in the end. I cursed myself for not taking pics but who would think to take pics of such a deplorable situation?! LOL! I fully planned to chuck the whole thing in the garbage!

[Art Mann]

While I have not used the GG brand of PVA I have never been able to "see" any practical difference in holding power for any PVA, just different open times, water resistance and color when dry.


Yes! In years gone by, I have done comparative destructive testing on Titebond I, II,and III and Elmers white glue. In all cases, the wood failed rather than the glue joint. I would be willing to bet the Gorilla PVA formulation will do exactly the same thing. The Gorilla brand doesn't offer any practical advantage over Titebond that I can tell. Why change?

[Wade Lippman]

Yes! In years gone by, I have done comparative destructive testing on Titebond I, II,and III and Elmers white glue. In all cases, the wood failed rather than the glue joint. I would be willing to bet the Gorilla PVA formulation will do exactly the same thing. The Gorilla brand doesn't offer any practical advantage over Titebond that I can tell. Why change?

Last time I needed wood glue the Gorilla was much cheaper and got good reviews somewhere, so I went with it. As you say, it is the same as any other wood glue.
Cheaper is a practical advantage isn't it?

[Art Mann]

Cheaper is one advantage. I normally use Titebond III, even though it is a little more expensive, because it is the most waterproof, it has a longer working time than the others and will cure at a cooler temperature. I haven't looked into the Gorilla PVA glue properties yet.

[Rob Tolentino]

I have used the Gorilla Wood Glue on projects over the past two years. It works very well.

[dave hulett]

I built a dining table for our (covered) patio using ipe and glued with Titebond III about 7 years ago. Haven't had a joint loosen yet. We live in Arkansas so it's seen everything from 0 to 100 degrees.

[Art Moore]

I tried it and actually prefer it now to TB II. Seems like it goes on smoother and holds very well.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

From all I have researched on PVA glue family, it looks Titebond III and II are slight better than Gorila that is slight better than standard yellow glue, from the resistance POV for indoor applications. All of them, usually, are stronger than the wood they are joining when appropriately applied.

I use yellow PVA glue since "forever" for most of my indoor applications. No issue so far.

Obviously for outdoors or high humidity uses, the history is different...

[Rich Engelhardt]

I just used some of the Gorilla Wood glue.
Pretty much the same as TB & Elmer's indoor/outdoor stuff.

[Curt Harms]

Excessive foaming is likely a result of, IMO, incorrectly ADDING extra water to the pieces being joined. Don't do it...the poly gets plenty from the wood and air around it. I know the bottle says to do this but trust me and just skip that step. Further, the foaming does not expand the joint...it isn't strong enough to do that. It is just a byproduct of too much water and poly glues in general.

There are glues formulated to instantly cure when exposed to certain frequencies. You basically glue up your product and stick it in a mircowave oven type device (kinda sorta) and in 10 seconds of exposure, the glue has cured and is ready to go! Pretty cool, eh? I had no idea Gorilla WOOD glue could be cured like this. I always thought those were special formulations for industrial uses.

I think wetting the joint is a mistake many make with polyurethane glues. Norm did it so that's the way to do it, right? From what I've read, adding moisture to a poly glue joint is only necessary with really dry wood such as in desert climates then not very much. Joinery that create a lot of foam is almost certain to be weak.