trimming proud tenons?

[Herv Peairs]

I am building a Sellers-style workbench. The stretchers join to the legs using through tenons. One of my tenons is about 1/8" proud (I'm new at this) and another about half that. The leg face where these tenons protrude will be inserted into a dado in the side apron, so the tenons can't stick out. What's the best way to trim these flush? I haven't glued up yet so I still have the option of trimming before assembly. Obviously looks don't matter in this case, but in the future I might build something where they do. Oh, and I don't yet own a flush-cut saw.

Thanks, Herv

[Robert Engel]

A hand plane with a nice sharp blade will do the trick!

[Jim Koepke]

Do you have a low angle block plane? They are great for trimming after assembly.

It can also be trimmed with a sharp chisel. This is where a 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" chisel excels.

Before hand you can cut it with a saw.

It is understandable in your case they will be in the way of structure. Many folks will leave them a touch proud to plane down later. It looks better than one that is a bit short.

On a side note, my bedtime reading last night was about Arts & Crafts styles which brought up Greene & Greene. They purposely made their joinery proud including proud details that sometimes weren't even part of the joinery.

jtk

[Herv Peairs]

Thanks. I was thinking of a low angle block, but wasn't sure. I've seen a video of Sellers planing a tenon with a smooth plane, but it was just a tiny bit proud. I suppose once I get close with the block plane I can switch to the smooth, but for this application it really doesn't matter.

Herv

[Jim Koepke]

As Robert said, a plane with a sharp blade will work.

Low angle planes tend to have less tear out on end grain. Skewing a bench plane can give it in effect a reduced angle of cut.

jtk

[David Eisenhauer]

Not all of these trimming jobs are the same, but, typically, I like to start with slicing off what I can with a sharp-sharp chisel (using a sideways slicing motion as opposed to a straight ahead push-cut) and then finish with a plane. Either a block plane for small stuff where I do not necessarily want to plane any of the surrounding material and a larger #3 or #4 where I will plane the whole surface, including the former protrusion.

[lowell holmes]

Thanks. I was thinking of a low angle block, but wasn't sure. I've seen a video of Sellers planing a tenon with a smooth plane, but it was just a tiny bit proud. I suppose once I get close with the block plane I can switch to the smooth, but for this application it really doesn't matter.

Herv

Sellers does a lot of things with a #4 handplane that most of us either can't or won't do. It's good to emulate him, you will learn a lot. I attended four of his classes at Homestead Heritage.

[Shawn Pixley]

I would use my flush cut japanese saw to trim the proud tenon. The I would go to my low angle block plane. Presto, chango and you are done.

[Herv Peairs]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I realize it was a very basic question but that's often the kind I have.

Herv

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I realize it was a very basic question but that's often the kind I have.

Herv

That is how I learned, askng the basic questions. Tough job, but someone has got to ask them. :D

jtk

[Eric Keller]

I'm pretty timid in situations like this, so I have always used a chisel. If the end of the tennon isn't well supported, the plane is going to crack the last bit of the tennon. Just cut along the flank a little at a time. Don't try to hog off the whole thing at once. Sharp is good

[Robin Frierson]

I second the suggestion of a flush cut Japanese trim Saw. I use it all the time to trim plugs and dowels. Then smooth it with any handplane.

[William Fretwell]

Trimming a large proud tenon today with a block plane, did a great job, then cleaned up around the next one a little as it was not proud. Caught my little finger in the gap with the plane. Had a 15 minute blood break. More on the bench! AT least my DNA on the bench marks it as mine!

[Herv Peairs]

Trimming a large proud tenon today with a block plane, did a great job, then cleaned up around the next one a little as it was not proud. Caught my little finger in the gap with the plane. Had a 15 minute blood break. More on the bench! AT least my DNA on the bench marks it as mine!

Ouch. One thing I've learned doing this Neander stuff is these tools may not take your hand off all at once like their tailed brethren, but instead take their toll a little at a time. Recently, my combination marking gauge has been sneaking up and poking me when I'm not looking.

[Alex Gauthier]

I just had the exact same issue on that bench which I am building too. If you haven't glued up the leg yet, just trip each tenon short. If so, then Paul actually recommends planing them flush as well. I envision splitting the corners or edges if I tried to do that so on the one or two that I need to clean up, I plan to try a chisel first to at least knock the corners flush with the face piece before employing the plane.



That is how I learned, askng the basic questions. Tough job, but someone has got to ask them. :D

jtk

[Terry Beadle]

I like to use one of those semi-plastic cards I get in the mail that are about 1/16 thick.
Some times drill a hole to match a dowel diameter or in the case of a tenon end just slide the card close to one side.
Usually the longest side.

Then use a ryoba saw to cut flush the thickness of the card.
Then a low angle plane or block plane or wider chisel ( very sharp ).

Works great, fewer sawing mistakes.

Enjoy the shavings!