Need advice on a HVLP unit

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Hi there

This year my family and I are going to have new house buildt. Im planning on doing some of the stuff my self, among other things painting the walls and sealings.

I was thinking that if a HVLP unit could do the job the money I save doing it my self would finance the unit, which I would like to have in my workshop for future finishing projects.
The problem is that Im in doubt of if a HVLP unit is suitable for the job since it is not what it is meant for.

Has anyone tried to use such a unit to paint walls and sealings ? and was it suitable for the job?

If so, would the units from Fuji work ?

[Bill Adamsen]

You might try calling Jeff at Homestead to see if there is a unit that handles the wide range of paints you are considering and has the characteristics you expect/demand. For walls and ceilings, I would typically use a 3/8" or 1/2" roller and just get the paint "out of the can and on the wall." Rollers are cheap and can be reused.

[lowell holmes]

I have the harbor freight hvlp. I haven't used it in years, but it worked very well when I used it.

[Patrick Walsh]

Hvlp for trim only.

For priming walls and ceilings a regular airless sprayer is the prefered tool.

A quick sand then cut and roll ceilings and walls.

Now if you just want to hack it up or move fast use the airless sprayer for your ceilings and walls but have someone at least back rolling Apply the paint accordingly as not to flood the surface with to much paint for the roller pr you will get aweful results.

Often a 18" roller can be just as fast as a sprayer for walls and ceilings.

Hvlp is great for oil based trim.

For cabinets a lexair turbine is the bomb..

[Prashun Patel]

If you want to save the most time and money, Paint the walls before the trim, carpet, or casings are installed. Use a roller. Repairing any damage after completion is far less time-consuming than cutting in, IMHO.

The HVLP units from Rockler/HF/Woodcraft are great for general purpose woodworking finish spraying (shellac, brushing lacquer, waterbased finishes). As you go up in price and stages, the control (dials/metering), ergonomics, and ability to push thicker finishes increases. I don't spray varnish (yet) so this and the Fuji Semipro have served me well.

[Cary Falk]

I have a HVLP gun from HF and it works great. I would never spray latex with it. Spraying paint in the house is a pain. I would just roll the walls. I could probably paint a room with the roller faster than a gun will all of the tape off and gun cleanup.

[Andy Giddings]

Good advice above - for spraying paint straight out of the can a lot depends on the paint's viscosity. Thinner paints can be sprayed by a lower power turbine (ie number of turbine stages). Thicker paints will need to be thinned out before spraying with the same turbine. Yes a Fuji system will work as will other brands. Fuji recommends a 4 stage turbine if you're going to use it for a lot of latex spraying. A 4 stage is going to cost anywhere between $750-1,000. You also have the option of using a large air compressor with a Conversion gun. Bill's advice to call Jeff at Homestead is worth pursuing before you plunk down any cash

[Robb White]

HVLP isn't really the correct sprayer to use for house painting. That is not to say is can't be done but you would want a 5/6 stage sprayer in order to do it otherwise you'll be stuck thinning a ton. I would suggest renting an airless sprayer or buying a used one off craigslist and reselling it after your done. Good luck.

-Rob

[Patrick Walsh]

I not trying to step on anyones feet here but i was a high end interior painter for ten years.

Only ametures or rather home owners think you paint the walls first then the trim.

The following is the way the pros do it.

1. Prime everything trim, ceilings and walls. If using latex for trim just shoot everything with latex. If going oil on the trim shoot the whole thing with oil. You could shoot the walls and ceilings with latex then go back and shoot the trim with oil.

2. Fill all your nail holes and do any wall and ceiling patches.

3. Sand all patches then hit everything with a second coat of fill.

4. Sand everything again. This time also sand ceilings and walls with 220 grit.

5. Vacume everything head to toe and tack the trim.

6. Spot prime all patches.

7. Caulk everything

8. Shoot your celing with ceiling flat, have someone back roll behind you. Do two coats of finish.

9. Spray your trim with first coat of finish. Only a hack uses a airless sprayer to paint trim.

10. Check all trim for additional patches. If needed hit them and then sand and spot prime.

11. Sand all trim with 220 grit and screen walls.

12. Vacume and tack everything head to toe like surgical clean.

13. Spray your final coat on the trim.

14. Now cut and roll walls two coats

As for protection there is a product called Liquid Mask. You use it on the glass of your windows. You just slop it on with a brush. You can get it on the sash and paint will still stick to the wood. After your all done you run a blade around the perimeter of the sash and the stuff peels right off.

Cover floors using blue tape ns rosin paper. Put drop clothes over the paper before you paint.

Good luck i hate painting!

[Ken Krawford]

Question about # 9 -

9. Spray your trim with first coat of finish. Only a hack uses a airless sprayer to paint trim.

If you're not using airless, what are you using?

[Patrick Walsh]

We are not allowed to post web sight links here so i will suggest you google HVlP pressure pot.

Also look into Lexair turbine sprayers.

im not sure what gun guys are running thesemdays as it has been many years since i painted full time.

HVlP stands for high volume low pressure. Essentialy you can dial the settings on these guns to flow atomize much finer than a airless gun. They are as close as you get to a autobody type sprayer. With one if i do my prep right i can get a finish free of any egg shell texture or sags.

When i can i always use oil paint. If using oil i always do my first prime coat with a high quality primer like ben moore quick dry fresh start. I then do my second coat of prime after all my patchine and caulking with Ben moore enamel Underbody. The enamel underbody powders up real fine when you sand it with 220 leave a amazing surface for you finish coats. It may sound a bit much for interior trim but i assure you if you prep as i suggested allong with the use of the proper spray gun, enamel underbody and either satin impervo or fine paints of europe you will get a amazing finished product.

If you do go fine paints of europe just know you must 100% use their primers and thinners when working with their product. It sounds like a scam but it is factual. The stuff is brutaly expensive but well worth it in the end.

[Von Bickley]

My advice on painting..... Hire a Professional Painter.