12" Forrest WW1 (on sale) or Forrest WW2?

[Mike Weaver]

Guys, for some reason Amazon has the Forrest Ww12607125 12"X60 Tooth Woodworker I Saw Blade (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0009H5SLK/qid=1129392112/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8__i3_xgl60/103-6974942-4156664?v=glance&s=hi&n=1000)for $83.08:eek: (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0009H5SLK/qid=1129392112/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8__i3_xgl60/103-6974942-4156664?v=glance&s=hi&n=1000)

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0009H5SLK/qid=1129392112/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8__i3_xgl60/103-6974942-4156664?v=glance&s=hi&n=1000

What are your thoughts on this for a general purpose blade for my 12" table saw?

Is the WW1 as good as the WW2?

Another Forrest (Forrest H4743 12" x 1" 60t ATB .125 General Purpose Blade (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000DD6TO/qid=1129392112/sr=8-5/ref=sr_8__i5_xgl60/103-6974942-4156664?v=glance&s=hi&n=1000)) is $129!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000DD6TO/qid=1129392112/sr=8-5/ref=sr_8__i5_xgl60/103-6974942-4156664?v=glance&s=hi&n=1000


Help?:confused:

Thanks,
-Mike

PS I'll probably be working mostly with hardwoods varying thickness (predominantly ~1", some thicker). Very occasional sheet goods.

[Jim Becker]

Forrest's description for the Woodworker I is:

"These trim and cross-cut ALL PURPOSE blades give scratch-free POLISHED cuts on wood, RIP or CROSSCUT, up to 2" thick. They have a 30° Alternate Top Bevel with a 5° Face Hook on 10" diameters and smaller."

In other words, it's not a general purpose blade like the Woodworker II.

[Mike Weaver]

Forrest's description for the Woodworker I is:

"These trim and cross-cut ALL PURPOSE blades give scratch-free POLISHED cuts on wood, RIP or CROSSCUT, up to 2" thick. They have a 30° Alternate Top Bevel with a 5° Face Hook on 10" diameters and smaller."

In other words, it's not a general purpose blade like the Woodworker II.


Eh? I'm confused here...for the description of the WW I, it says All PURPOSE and yet you say the WW II is all purpose.:eek:

The description of the WW II is:
"With this one all purpose blade you can RIP & CROSSCUT 1" to 2" hardwood and softwood resulting in a smooth as sanded surface."

What's the difference between a polished and smooth as sanded and what's the difference between all purpose and general purpose?

Which is better?
(ie, Do I strike while the price is low, or save up and get the WW II?)

I'm so confused.:confused:

Thanks in advance for straightening me out.
-Mike

[Cecil Arnold]

Mike, I think what Jim is trying to point out is that the 60 tooth blade will not give you the rip cuts you will get with the WWII. If you check, you will find that most rip blades are in the 28 tooth range, combos are around 40 tooth and crosscut are 60 teeth and up. That, of course is subject to change depending on the blade manuf.

[Mike Weaver]

Mike, I think what Jim is trying to point out is that the 60 tooth blade will not give you the rip cuts you will get with the WWII. If you check, you will find that most rip blades are in the 28 tooth range, combos are around 40 tooth and crosscut are 60 teeth and up. That, of course is subject to change depending on the blade manuf.

Cecil,
You're right - but I'm mostly familiar with 10" blades.

With a 12" blade, what's a general purpose tooth count?
Does it go up with the extra diameter?

A little math generates the following:
10" x 3.14 = 31.4" circumference / 40 teeth = .785" per tooth
12" x 3.14 = 37.68" / 60 teeth = .628" per tooth

So, by straght tooth count, the 12" 60 tooth blade should be a little more difficult to rip with, but "how much"?

Sounds like the WW II in 40 tooth may be the better GP blade, but it's ~$40 more...

Hmm, tough decision.

Cheers,
-Mike

[Chris Giles]

On a 60 tooth blade, 60 cuts are made with each revolution of the arbor. The diameter of the blade has no impact on this fact. The difference is that on a 12" diameter blade, the teeth are moving faster than on a 10", assuming the same rpm's. This is why larger diameter table saws have more powerful motors. It takes more power to drive the teeth thru the stock at a faster rate. How this impacts the Forrest sawblade designation of I vs. II, I have no idea.

[Jim Becker]

Sorry...I missed the first part of the description when I copied the information from the Forrest site (http://forrest.woodmall.com)...this is how the description begins:

"Designed for radial arm or tablesaws—fine crosscut."

So to recap, the WW-I is a great blade, but the WW-II is a better choice for overall use, IMHO...

[Mike Weaver]

That'll teach me to post while trying to interact with the kids at the same time. :eek:

I defintely wasn't think clearly on this one...:o

Yeah, even though $83 is a great price for a Forrest blade, it's not what I want.

Thanks for settin' me straight.

Cheers,
-Mike