Blade tension handle on MM16 Bandsaw

[Kieran Kammerer]

Sometimes I find the handle difficult/awkward to turn. Has anybody added a swivel handle (like that on the tail stock of a Powermatic 3520) to make things easier? Hope the question makes sense?

Thanks,

Kieran

[Erik Loza]

This doesn't really answer your question but I always found tightening/loosening to be a two-handed affair. Especially with the carbide blades.

Erik

[Kieran Kammerer]

Agreed Erik! Maybe I could add two.

[Erik Loza]

Kieran, I think a bigger diameter handwheel wouldn't be a bad thing. My thought is that the round contour on the MM handwheel might not lend itself to adding an "assist" lever but who knows? You should try it and report back.

Erik

[glenn bradley]

Some kind of Brody knob maybe?

http://store.hgmforkliftparts.com/caterpillar-cat-towmotor_forklift_parts/ct2i7992.aspx?afid=1&gclid=CjwKEAiA_9nFBRCsurz7y_Px8xoSJAAUqvKC9fdDAvZT _hNxZRjtmq_HMJJy0Mb5Nbip946cTtocWhoCQ1_w_wcB

[Randall J Cox]

Kieran, I think a bigger diameter handwheel wouldn't be a bad thing. My thought is that the round contour on the MM handwheel might not lend itself to adding an "assist" lever but who knows? You should try it and report back.

Erik

Erik, knowing you are the MiniMax guru, a similar question about the S45 BS, bought used recently, its 1995 model pretty sure. I took apart and greased tension threads on top, threads were in good shape. I unscrew after using it, taking tension off. Will that damage threads over time? I was told by someone when looking at this saw to check for damaged threads as it was common... This an issue on MiniMax bandsaws? Randy

[Kieran Kammerer]

Thanks Glenn. That might do the trick. I am not sure how tightly you can fasten it. I was also thinking about one of the knobs the "cool" guys had on their steering wheels!

[Van Huskey]

Thanks Glenn. That might do the trick. I am not sure how tightly you can fasten it. I was also thinking about one of the knobs the "cool" guys had on their steering wheels!

The steering wheel know is a brodie knob and some of them should tighten tight enough though I am not sure some of the plastic ones will. The only issue with an appendage like that is it will impact the vertical capacity of the saw if it is left on.

If you look right above the handle in the shaft there is a hole through it (I assume it is on all MM saw but dunno, it is on mine and honestly I have had no reason to notice its existence or lack thereof in others) it is the perfect size to stick a long #3 Phillips head screwdriver through to gain some "traction" for the last turn. I honestly just use two hands but it would seem like much more of a pain if I released tension when I finished using the saw and had to tension it for use. I leave mine tensioned and rarely change blades so the issue never sticks in my mind very long.

[Kieran Kammerer]

Thanks Van

[Sam Blasco]

I'm not sure a brodie knob would work. I believe you are looking for more leverage, not speed of rotation, and I think that knob on a small diameter hand wheel would be more of a pain than anything. If you don't like the two handed, white knuckle approach to get that last psi you are looking for, then perhaps consider adding a larger diameter hand wheel. I found the MM16 hand wheel to be sufficient when I had my MM16, but when I jumped to the MM24 I was pleasantly surprised with the larger diameter hand wheel and found it more comfortable. I did swap out the hand wheel that raises and lowers my guide post with one that had a handle for more speed with that, and got it from JW Winco online. You should be able to find one more to your liking there if you decide to try a larger diameter hand wheel. Here's a picture of what I added to the guide post mechanism.
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[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks for the idea and the online source for replacing the guide post adjuster Sam. That may be something I will look into.

[Kieran Kammerer]

Thanks for the info.

[Van Huskey]

Just out of curiosity does your MM have the hole in the shaft? I was thinking if they all do a piece of correctly sized Allthread with two nuts to keep it centered on the shaft and two knobs screwed to the ends would make a decent "final turn" mechanism. It would allow you to use the wheel for most of the work and not impact the vertical clearance.

PS the only issue is Allthread might bend too easily...

[Joe O'Leary]

I am surprised at this discussion. I just received my MM 16 bandsaw and put a half inch blade on it.
After tensioning it, It only took two turns of the wheel to completely detention.
Two turns in the other direction and I have complete tension on a half inch blade, So no problem needing leverage.
I wonder if they changed something to fix this problem.

[Bob Bouis]

Try fully tensioning a 1.25, 0.42 blade--takes a bit more oompf than a little 1/2"er.

[Joe O'Leary]

Try fully tensioning a 1.25, 0.42 blade--takes a bit more oompf than a little 1/2"er.

No thanks. At least not yet. Some folks claim the 1.25 blade is pushing it on this machine? What say you?

[Bob Bouis]

I wouldn't; I'm just making the point that blade size controls the force required to properly tension the blade.