Shop Door

[Fred Renich]

I have a outside shop door opening that is oversized—4X7 feet. I am thinking about building a custom board and batten door from kiln dried 2X6 fir and painting it. If I create a shiplap joint between the pieces and glue them will it tear apart as the door shrinks and swells in the weather? I live in Oregon west of the Cascades so it is very moist in the winter.

Thanks for any input.

Fred

[Mel Fulks]

Traditionaly they are not glued. Think that would only cause problems. I do like to paint the boards before putting it together.

[John K Jordan]

I have a outside shop door opening that is oversized—4X7 feet. I am thinking about building a custom board and batten door from kiln dried 2X6 fir and painting it. If I create a shiplap joint between the pieces and glue them will it tear apart as the door shrinks and swells in the weather? I live in Oregon west of the Cascades so it is very moist in the winter.

Thanks for any input.

Fred

Fred,

Sounds like a couple of doors I built for my barn. Maybe 7-8 years now and the doors still "snick" as they close (I used a conventional latch set). One is 36"x7', the other a double door in a 7' space - a 48"x7' plus a 36"x7'. The doors are not exactly light-weights but I used heavy-duty hinges.

Tired of barn doors that warped and sagged no matter what I did, I built these around sheets of 1/2" pressure treated plywood. I made an oak frame for the back for strength, fastened to the plywood, then faced the outside with rough-sawn eastern red cedar from my sawmill. Something similar edged with the KD fir you mentioned for strength with rabbets to inset the plywood might work.

I "painted" everything with BLO and I see no sign of deterioration.

JKJ

[David Helm]

Built mine (8 X 8 barn slider) with a base of 3/4 plywood, then covered with T & G Cedar. Edged with galvanized angle so no end grain exposed. It's been in place for six years and is still in new condition. No glue, no finish. It is likely that your 2 X 6 solid fir door will warp. I have built some just like you described, and they always warped over time.

[Fred Renich]

Thanks for the input. I hesitate to use plywood but will if I can't figure out a way to keep the door from warping. I intend to put a z bracing on one side to help stabilize it.

[Andy Giddings]

Fred, if you want an overview of building a large shop door out of cheap construction pine there's a YouTube video from Timothy Wilmots covering start to finish https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbRlItVCcIc which might be useful. He's using T & G panels for the solid part

[Jamie Buxton]

Be aware that kiln-dried construction lumber still has quite of drying yet to go. Kiln-dried hardwood lumber is generally 8-10% EMC, which is the level wood will likely get to indoors. For construction lumber, the kiln-dried standard is 18% EMC. That's the level at which molds don't grow. But in most places, 18% lumber is going to continue to dry, and it will continue to shrink and warp and do all those things that drying lumber does.

[David Helm]

Thanks for the input. I hesitate to use plywood but will if I can't figure out a way to keep the door from warping. I intend to put a z bracing on one side to help stabilize it.


Z bracing will not stop warping. The forces are just too strong.

[andy bessette]

I would stick with proven, traditional door construction.

[Mike Wilkins]

Find the Fine Woodworking article by Michael Pekovich titled Workshop Makeover. He built his own doors utilizing a solid wood frame skinned with plywood on each side, rigid foam insulation between the stiles/rails, and a 3/4" face frame on the exterior side. Almost like a torsion box but with off the shelf materials. Great tutorial on making your own door especially if the budget is limited.

[David Helm]

355149355150355151 Simple construction; works well.

[Jim Andrew]

i built a outdoor door using as a base a sheet of BB form plywood, 3/4" thick. Then I put a frame on the front using smart trim, and siding inside that. Has been an excellent door and still is.

[Fred Renich]

David, when you added the angle around your door did you caulk between the angle and the wood edges?

[Fred Renich]

Thanks for the link Andy. the video is helpful even though my equipment is nothing like what he is running.

[Fred Renich]

Mike, I found the article and the description of the door build will really be helpful. I like the part of the insulation.

[David Helm]

David, when you added the angle around your door did you caulk between the angle and the wood edges?


No, and it really wasn't necessary as the angle is a very tight fit and the door faces away from where the rain comes.