Need ideas for boxing in beam and plumbing/electrical chase

[Paul F Franklin]

Maybe this should be in off-topic, but hey, it's woodworking of a sort...

I'm working on finishing my basement. I have a typical steel I beam running down the center held up with steel columns. Gas and water pipes run along the bottoms of the joists next to the beam on both sides, and I will be running electrical there as well. I need to box it in but want to do it in a way that allows access down the road. There are water shut-off valves there and I want to be able to run additional lines in the future when I remodel the kitchen and bathrooms above. The bottom doesn't need to be removable, but the sides do.

The length I need to box in is about 40 feet, so I am looking for a simple solution that won't take a lot of work and time to execute. It doesn't need to look like furniture (likely will all just be painted white) but I don't want it to look too hokey either. Building a frame and bottom is no problem, but I'm looking for ideas for removable side panels. One idea I've had is to use that plastic track with double channels and just make flat panels out of 1/4" MDF that can slide past one another or be lifted out if necessary. I'd hide the track behind some trim. 80' of the track will be a couple of hundred dollars though.

Anybody done something like this or have a better idea?

[George Bokros]

I think removable side panels held in place with screw would look better than sliding panels, just my opinion though.

[Lee Schierer]

What about holding your side panels in place with spring friction catches.
354958
Turn the catch so the part (left side of the photo) so it is horizontal and it will set the height of you panel. Two on the bottom and one or two on the top of each panel should do the trick.

[Jerry Wright]

I use metal air vent covers painted a matching color here and there to allow access.

[Jim Andrew]

When I built houses, used to nail a 2x2 along the edge of ductwork, leaving a gap of course, then cut waferboard in 4' lengths to the proper width, nail it to the 2x2, then add another 2x2 to the bottom edge. Then I would use my level and tape to get the length of the bottom pieces, usually 2x4's flat, and would put in one on each end, then rig a string line to get the rest of my measurements and nail them in a straight line so the bottom of the framing would have a straight edge. Substitute screws for the nails fastening the side waferboard, and you have removable panels.

[Paul Wunder]

Have you considered simply using sheetrock applied with screws covering over 1x2 framing, You could attach it to the framing with sheetrock screws and the corners cud be covered with pine 90 degree corner beads. You can paint the whole thing white and be able to remove any section by unscrewing it. Where there are known shut off valves you can install plastic access doors and frames (white). They are available at the Depot in various sizes for about $8. If done this way perhaps all the supplies can be re-used when your remodeling is complete

[Jerry Miner]

You can use the 1/4" mdf panel idea and skip the track-- just cut a groove in your frame. Instead of "bypass" panels, make them so they lift out. Once one is out, the others can slide:

355101
If you attach pieces of steel to the inside, you can use a couple of powerful magnets to lift the panels out-- no visible hardware or finger holes.

[Ralph Okonieski]

In order to provide similar access to the water pipe and meter coming into the house, I made a frame and attached homemade slats to the frame. The slats were spaced 1/8 inch or so apart in order to provide some air flow in case of leak. The slats were sanded and finished to provide a nicer appearance. So, my suggestion is to build frames and cover with slats, attaching the completed frames with screws to your main structure (2x2's or whatever you attach to the beam).

[Chris Padilla]

The type of method is dictated by frequency of access. I built such a chase in my garage to house gas and electrical. I built boxes from 3/4" plywood that had drywall applied and then I simply screwed them to the studs and drywalled over the boxes. The lids also had drywall and visible screws to allow me to remove them as needed. I haven't removed them in several years now.

With water shut-offs, however, I'd want that easily accessible in case of an emergency.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Do a Google search on Dzus fastners. They make several types...one slider and another type is a quarter turn. Both are used for holding panels on all kind of objects. I've seen them used to hold covers on CT scanners years ago.

[Paul F Franklin]

Wow, a lot of good ideas! Thanks all. Kind of leaning toward Jerry Miner's idea as probably the minimum cost/work that should still look decent....but I love the idea of the Dzus fasteners (never knew what they were called) so may experiment a little. Thanks again!