Sawyers Bench Height

[John Ferry]

Hello,

I want to build a sawyers bench and think I'm going to use Tom Fidgen's design. I am going to make the top boards 1-3/4" instead of an 1". I want to be able to use holdfast if needed or bench dog so wanted it thick enough for those. Anyone have an idea how high this should be from the floor? I have tried setting up something around 20" high and that seems to high for me. I'm thinking about 18" because obviously the board on top would add at least 3/4" or more. I might even consider 17" knows this but any input would be appreciated greatly.

Thanks
John

[Nicholas Lawrence]

John, you may get better luck in the hand tool forum. As I understand it, this is the forum for questions about how to use the site itself.

I am not familiar with the design you reference, but I have a saw bench, and it works well. It is about 18 3/4 high.

If you are not sure what works best for you, I would suggest making it at the upper end of what you think might work. If you don't like it, it is an easy matter to cut the legs down.

[Chuck Nickerson]

The rule of thumb I used: bend your knee so your lower leg is parallel to the floor and measure the distance from your shin to the floor.
Now subtract two inches. Subtracting the two inches leaves room for the stock and for you to sag onto the piece for work holding.

YMMV.

[Jim Koepke]

The rule of thumb I used: bend your knee so your lower leg is parallel to the floor and measure the distance from your shin to the floor.
Now subtract two inches. Subtracting the two inches leaves room for the stock and for you to sag onto the piece for work holding.

YMMV.

As Chuck posts, the best height will depend on the user. I made my first one on the tall side. Then with stock to be cut on the saw bench, scrap wood was set on the floor and used to find the best height for my knee to rest on the workpiece to work as a clamp. (commonly called a meat clamp by the Schwarz)

When the most comfortable height was found the pieces of wood I was standing on were used to mark the legs for cut off.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I built my saw bench knee high (18") IIRC, the article I read about saw benches recommended knee high.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/traditional_sawbench

[Paul Sidener]

Like everyone else said, it depends on you and how tall you are. I am 5'8" tall, and my saw benches are 18" high. I wouldn't use a holdfast on the bench. You would be better off with something like a Veritas Surface Clamp. If you look in his book, you will see that is what Tom Fidgen uses.

[Phil Mueller]

One more five foot eight incher here, and mine is 18 1/2" tall. When going from sawing at the height of my bench, to using the saw bench, I had to become more conscious of the length of the hand saw. Now and then I'll see a photo or video of someone rip cutting a board down the center slot of a saw bench with the saw completely vertical. It doesn't take but a few times slamming the toe of the saw against the floor to be more aware of the lower height.

[Mike Allen1010]

Hi John,

Great question. I'm a hand tool woodworker who got rid of my TS many years ago and does 90% of stock dimensioning with hand saws (aside from re-sawing with a bandsaw. I'm too old and fat to do that by hand).

The saw bench is one of my most used and valuable shop appliances. In my experience, building a good saw bench is one of the most important things you can do to improve the efficiency/execution and enjoyment of hand tool woodworking.

I'm currently on my 3rd generation saw bench and my suggestions are:

* Knee high works great – allows you to get your upper body over the work piece and yet is high enough to avoid the toe of the siding the ground.

* I prefer a bigger, heavier saw bench than most of those I see in the woodworking press. My current bench top is 2' thick construction grade Doug fir, 45" long, x 25" wide with a 2" inch slot down the middle for ripping and 4 x 4, splayed legs.

For me, the benefit of a bench of this size is it's light enough to move around, but is heavy enough that if you need to saw without your upper body over the workbench (and therefore able to use your body weight hold the work piece in place), the bench will still hold the work solidly without moving. For me this improves efficiency and saves time.

* I do drill holes in the top and use hold fast to keep the workspace from moving. I'm a big believer in what I believe is someone's tagline here on SMC "clamp the work and relax your mind".

* A slide up edge stop you can push a workpiece against is something I find really helpful.

* I also use a simple, trestle style piece the same height as the saw bench to support long workpieces.

* Perhaps most important, is orienting a good light source to clearly illuminate your layout line from above. I'm right-handed, so for me that means above and slightly to the left.

Just my opinion FWIW, YMMV.


All the best, Mike



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[David Ryle]

Build them so the top face is level with the top of your knee and then...give it a while,try using it at that height and then start cutting down till you find the perfect height, bear in mind it's not just your height but your weight,natural posture and joint flexibility all play their part.

[Bill McDermott]

I'm 6'4" and my 21 1/2" sawbench is perfect for me.

[Jeff Zihlman]

I'm 6'4" and my 21 1/2" sawbench is perfect for me.
I'm 6'4" and built mine @24" it works ok. I'd like to try a height similar to Bill's at some point. I just haven't worked up the nerve to cut down the legs.

[Robert Engel]

The bony bump (tibial crest) right below your knee.

Or, bend your knee to 90° and an inch or so below that allows room for the stock.

Worked good for me......

[lowell holmes]

I'm 6'4" and built mine @24" it works ok. I'd like to try a height similar to Bill's at some point. I just haven't worked up the nerve to cut down the legs.

I think you will find knee high works best.:)

[David Eisenhauer]

Jeff - Stack some scrap on the floor next to the bench to stand on while sawing to try out a new height.

[Edwin Santos]

Jeff - Stack some scrap on the floor next to the bench to stand on while sawing to try out a new height.

I like this suggestion. He's basically saying go into the fitting room and try it on before you buy. You'll know what feels right for you.

[lowell holmes]

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/traditional_sawbench

If you build this one, build it tall and then cut the legs off to a comfortable height. I still say knee high is the proper height. That's what my saw bench is and it is comfortable to use.
As I stated before, I built the Pop Wood bench. It is comfortable to use. I am 6' tall. If you are 6'4", you might want to adjust the height.

[Jim Koepke]

The Tom Fidgen saw bench is unfamiliar to me. Does anyone have a picture of one they made?

An online search shows many with a slot down the center for ripping.

Here is how mine were made:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?146777-Saw-Table-Project

They do work well for me.

The joinery should be about the same whether one is using straight legs or splayed legs.

jtk

[Jeff Zihlman]

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/traditional_sawbench

If you build this one, build it tall and then cut the legs off to a comfortable height. I still say knee high is the proper height. That's what my saw bench is and it is comfortable to use.

Thanks Lowell! I will try this height and see what I think. My current one isn't quite as nice as the one in the Pop Wood link. Except my young daughter and I thought it should have a coat of paint on it. I now have the manliest saw bench around. I want to do something similar to yours for the next version.


Jeff - Stack some scrap on the floor next to the bench to stand on while sawing to try out a new height.

Thanks David, I agree this is a great suggestion!

[Paul Sidener]

The Tom Fidgen saw bench is unfamiliar to me. Does anyone have a picture of one they made?

An online search shows many with a slot down the center for ripping.

Here is how mine were made:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?146777-Saw-Table-Project

They do work well for me.

The joinery should be about the same whether one is using straight legs or splayed legs.

jtk

I have not made one yet, I have been thinking about it. It is well thought out, but it is still just a saw bench. One side has straight legs and the other are splayed. There is a gap in the middle for ripping. Like most things Tom does, he thinks his is the best.

The pair I am using are like the ones Christopher Schwarz pushes. They have the notch for ripping, I see the benefit to the slot for ripping.

http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/how-to-improve-your-handsawing-skills.html

[Jim Koepke]

I have not made one yet, I have been thinking about it. It is well thought out, but it is still just a saw bench. One side has straight legs and the other are splayed. There is a gap in the middle for ripping. Like most things Tom does, he thinks his is the best.

The pair I am using are like the ones Christopher Schwarz pushes. They have the notch for ripping, I see the benefit to the slot for ripping.

http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/how-to-improve-your-handsawing-skills.html

For each woodworker there is a saw bench style to serve well for their shop and style of work.

The slot down the center does appear to be a good approach. My thought process found features that didn't appeal to me. There is a need for a cross brace to support the two sides so sawing isn't continuous. If the work becomes skewed it could lead to cutting into the top of the saw bench. Finally, my saw benches also work as seats around my bench. A slot might not be as comfortable at times. Especially if there is something in my back pocket that could get pinched in the slot.

There are many examples in the past of a regular saw horse with a ripping slit cut in the top. This also allows the installation of a batten to support large items, like a door, when painting.

For my work, having a generous birds mouth or sawing notch at one end of a bench works fine for ripping.

Designs with straight legs also appeals to me on some levels. It would work great for those who want to saw along the sides of their bench.

One option that is greatly appreciated in my shop is to make the benches stackable to keep them from taking up too much space.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Didn't really over think mine...just an afternoon of puttering around..
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Just dumpster dive stuff.
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Yes, I have even used a plane on it. Had to plane leg stock for the workbench one day.
Saw bench has been in use for a few years, now.
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Even a few crosscuts....

[David Eisenhauer]

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I have been wanting to build on in this style - "Billy's Little Bench" I believe I have seen it called.

[Bill McDermott]

Mine is very similar to the one David shows (different Billy). If I were to rebuild, I would put the lower stretchers inboard of the legs. I catch them from time to time when ripping. It's no big deal, just an annoyance. Still, it is something I would change.

[David Eisenhauer]

Question Bill: Do you really use the center gap (in the "Billy" bench) for ripping or do you tend to rip off of one side? I have wanted to build that one, but got to thinking about perhaps it would be awkward to saw from more towards the center of my chest as opposed to off on my side as is more typical. Or, is your body positioned far enough back (while kneeling on the board) so that the saw ends up more towards your dominant side anyway?

[Erwin Graween]

Hi,

5 notes to help make a choice (from my brain dump this morning :) ).
1- Remember that the length of hand saw can range from 24 - 26 - to 28 ". So you want to make sure that the height you'll come up with allow enough space so that the saw pushed all the way down in your movement does not hit the floor !
2- In the same Idea, when ripping (and maybe cross cutting to lesser extent), you want to make sure the splay or rake (not sure of the word) allows space for the saw movement to not hit the legs.
3- In the Tom Figden model, the end batten seems to fixed. I like more the idea of dog holes or like Jim said a split top so you can remove this fixture jig aid, and only pu it when needed. For example a few holes with removable dowels or sort of removable plane stop are enough to keep a board from moving in a cross cut.
4- As said in previous posts make it sturdy, really.
5- Make a pair of thenm with same height, with one longer than the other, so you stake them as it takes space in the shop. The smaller one should fit under the bigger one.

Hope it helps.

Regards.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

Regarding making the top thick enough to use holdfasts... that made me remember this two-parts sawhorse: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/chads-sawhorse-workbench

Basically, two sawhorses that can be stacked. When not stacked have the height for sawing and when stacked have the height of workbench...

[James Waldron]

I looked at "Billy's Little Bench" and adapted to my own (quite beefy) requirements. All stock is 6/4 syp, so it's quite stout. If the same were made of 4/4 stock, it would be easier to move about and strong enough for most shop work.

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References from the Billy's Little Bench Blog:

http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blog/new-improved-sawbench-split-top-sawbench

http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blog/a-better-split-top-sawbench-sketchup

http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blog/split-top-sawbench-video-and-pics

http://www.billyslittlebench.com/blog/split-top-sawbench-in-progress

Enjoy.

[Jim Koepke]

Basically, two sawhorses that can be stacked. When not stacked have the height for sawing and when stacked have the height of workbench...

It looks like a good idea, but makes me wonder how much wobble there would be.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Mine doesn't wobble at all. Also makes a nice place to sit ON the board for rip cuts....
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Sit with my back to the wider splay end
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Run the rip saw until it hits the back of the notch, then you and the board can just scoot forward...
I do use a knee on the board for crosscuts..
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Using the non-notched end. I also clamp an old board to the top of the saw bench..
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Add a couple planing stops. And joint away the saw marks on a few legs of the work bench I was also building..
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Have also clamped a few slabs to this bench, and ran a circular saw for items a bit too big to haul into the shop.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks for the idea Andrey. I like that. Stackable and useful for two different uses.

[Chuck Nickerson]

Question Bill: Do you really use the center gap (in the "Billy" bench) for ripping or do you tend to rip off of one side?

I have a 'Billy Bench' where at one end the vertical is one piece. I use the center gap when ripping anything short or the last 18" or so of a long rip.
As always, YMMV.

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks Chuck. It makes sense.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

It looks like a good idea, but makes me wonder how much wobble there would be.

jtk

Hi Jim! I believe it can be done without wobble. Given the huge contact area, all around the worktop, it is possible to make it really stable. Also one might use bolts and knobs going through slots to fix two sawhorses together when stacked, or even can make stacked height adjustable.


Thanks for the idea Andrey. I like that. Stackable and useful for two different uses.

Now I'm thinking about combining this idea with sawhorse from Tom Fidgen that was mentioned above. Basically, it can be integrated into almost any particular design of a sawhorse (couple of sawhorses, to be correct).