Tightening a hatchet head

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I feel like I should know how to deal with this, but this is new to me....

I needed a hatchet for something, so my Father gave me one that he does not use.... This is from Sears, probably in the 70's or 80's, but I am guessing.

354500

I used it today, and the head started pulling off. This is the top view

354501

I looked here (https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/) six down is "An Ax to Grind, A Practical Ax Manual".

Also available as a set of HTML web pages

https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/toc.cfm

Couple of things that I noticed were:

I should not use metal wedges, but it says that I should use something called Swel Lock (bottom of this page https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/page13.cfm). And I see that it is still available.

Just trying to decide what I should do with this thing.

My gut reaction is to simply pull the head then install a new wedge.

I am a bit unclear on what to do with that swel-lock stuff. It looks like you dump it in where the wedge will go and then drive the wedge.

[William Fretwell]

You may need a whole new handle if it's too loose. Swelling wood for axe handles is a temporary fix. Those little corrugated metal wedges can be added at 45 degrees to the main wood wedge. I see nothing wrong with them except you need several as they don't do much.
So a properly fitted new handle & wedge that is left a little proud of the axe gets my vote.

[Matt Evans]

I feel like I should know how to deal with this, but this is new to me....

I needed a hatchet for something, so my Father gave me one that he does not use.... This is from Sears, probably in the 70's or 80's, but I am guessing.

354500

I used it today, and the head started pulling off. This is the top view

354501

I looked here (https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/) six down is "An Ax to Grind, A Practical Ax Manual".

Also available as a set of HTML web pages

https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/toc.cfm

Couple of things that I noticed were:

I should not use metal wedges, but it says that I should use something called Swel Lock (bottom of this page https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/page13.cfm). And I see that it is still available.

Just trying to decide what I should do with this thing.

My gut reaction is to simply pull the head then install a new wedge.

I am a bit unclear on what to do with that swel-lock stuff. It looks like you dump it in where the wedge will go and then drive the wedge.


I typically replace the wedge with one slightly larger. If I think I need a cross wedge I add a small metal wedge. If you file the top part of the hole a hair larger before reinstalling the handle the wedge will flare the handle out to fill the space, giving you a really tight mechanical grip that rarely comes loose.

[Robert Hazelwood]

If you can get the wedge out you might be able to re-seat the head a bit further down on the handle where it fits tightly again. Extend the wedge slot if necessary, then refit a new wedge.

I recommend drying the end of the handle prior to fitting the head, with gentle heat. I like to place the end between the fins of a radiant heater for a few days. This ensures the wood will be at minimum MC when you are fitting, and will not be able to shrink after the fact.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

If you can get the wedge out you might be able to re-seat the head a bit further down on the handle where it fits tightly again. Extend the wedge slot if necessary, then refit a new wedge.

I recommend drying the end of the handle prior to fitting the head, with gentle heat. I like to place the end between the fins of a radiant heater for a few days. This ensures the wood will be at minimum MC when you are fitting, and will not be able to shrink after the fact.

Well, that is brilliant. I would not have thought of doing that, but, now that you mention it, it makes a lot of sense.

So, I think that I will pop the head, remove the wedge, make a new wedge, dry the wood, possibly extend the cut a bit, then refit.

if that does not work, then I need to decide if I will make my own handle, or, purchase a new one and fit it.

Any thoughts on that swel-lock stuff? I did not even know that it existed until recently.

[Matt Kjolsrud]

We used to let our rigging axes soak overnight in a pan of motor oil. Not the whole thing; set it vertical with the head half covered with oil. I'm still using one that was treated that way twenty years ago, and it's still tight.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

We used to let our rigging axes soak overnight in a pan of motor oil. Not the whole thing; set it vertical with the head half covered with oil. I'm still using one that was treated that way twenty years ago, and it's still tight.

Hmm, I could try that if my first attempt fails...

[robert dankert]

You could try to shave the handle below the eye and see if you can get the head to seat a little farther down. Then see if the wedge will go in a little farther. If the wedge is already bottomed in the kerf you can try to pull it and replace. Sometimes wedges are glued. Not a good idea if you need to pull it. Replacement handles are pretty inexpensive if it comes to that. I have never used swel-lock, but I suspect as one poster noted it would be a temporary fix.

Now if you are in a hurry pound some nails, washers, keys, whatever you have in the top. Or if you are not in a hurry, just wait until summer.:D

Edit to add: If you replace the handle check the eye before you do any filing. It might already have the top of the eye larger than the bottom. Also, some heads had an "hour glass" shaped eye.

[Paul Sidener]

We used to let our rigging axes soak overnight in a pan of motor oil. Not the whole thing; set it vertical with the head half covered with oil. I'm still using one that was treated that way twenty years ago, and it's still tight.

I have used this method, and left it in for a couple days. If the axe is that old this will help, but you may still end up replacing the handle. I didn't use motor oil, I used boiled linseed oil. Both will work, BLO smells better.

[mark kosse]

FWIW, commercial swelling solutions are just mineral oil. I use linseed oil to tighten anything that needs swelled. Not BLO, as it dries faster.

[steven c newman]

Bring it over here, tomorrow...IF you haven't fixed it yet. I have one other trick I can use to tighten things up.....

[Stanley Covington]

Remove the head.

Examine the eye (the hole the handle fits into). The walls should be smooth without irregularities. The right and left sides (wide sides) of the eye's walls should be slightly wider at the top than at the bottom. Sometimes, the eye will neck down at the center, and expand out again towards the top. This is acceptable within reason, but straight is better. Sometimes the walls will be (concave) hollowed out. This is very bad and must be corrected. In any case, the right and left walls should be wider at the top than at the bottom, and straight in between.

Use files to remove irregularities, forging flaws, bumps, etc. It doesn't need to be perfect. If a lot of material must be removed to correct the eye, it may be more cost effective to buy a new hatchet since truing a badly-out-of-wack eye can be a lot of work. Forging a good eye is the most difficult operation in making an axe, and is seldom done well.

Next, check that the tenon is not badly damaged. If it is seriously damaged, the only fix is to replace the handle.

If the tenon is still usable, shim the OUTSIDE of the tenon with manila folder cardstock, or other dense, thin cardboard. You may not need to shim the entire tenon, but worst case, cut out a single piece that fits and will wrap the tenon. Insert this paper into the eye with extra material projecting out the bottom of the eye the width of your hand. While gripping this projecting paper to keep it from being pulled further into the eye, tap the handle/tenon into the eye. It should be a very tight fit. If not, double up on the paper.

Paper is processed wood and so should offend neither purist nor neanderthal man. But one way it differs from wood is that changes in moisture content do not make it to swell/shrink as much. The paper will not only tighten up the tenon, but will provide a more precise fit between tenon and the steel walls of the eye increasing friction. This will make the tenon tight right away, while making it more resistant to shock over time.

Wedge it as you see fit.

The eye is essentially a steel tube that will expand/contract with temperature changes, but is totally unaffected by changes in humidity. The wooden tenon it contains, on the other hand, will swell with increased humidity. That expansion is constrained by the steel eye. After a few hundred cycles, the tenon's cells at the surface will be permanently crushed, and the wood will take a "set." This will cause any wooden handle to eventually come loose over time. This eventuality can be delayed by slowing down the cycle of shrinkage and swelling. Varnish or polyurethane will do the job.

Thin down some varnish or PU 100% with thinner. Soak this into the tenon's end and the handle's butt (and handle overall too if you are so inclined) in several (4~5) applications. The thinner helps the mixture soak into the grain instead of just sitting on the surface where it will be damaged and stop providing moisture intrusion.

Stan

[lowell holmes]

Play around with the different suggestions and you will probably fix it.

Put a new handle on it and you will fix it.

So, I would play with it a bit and if it didn't work, put a new handle on it. I've run into this with hammers. A new handle always works.

[george wilson]

How can it be that there are 12 replies on how to tighten your hatchet handle?:)

[Chris Fournier]

Drive a metal wedge or two perpendicular to the wooden wedge and away you go. Cheap hatchet, simple and effective solution. An axe is a wedge and a wedge is the simplest tool known to man. Don't complicate it!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I just wanted to provide an update....

First, George, who asked how there could be so many replies, well, I read them all and I feel like I got lots of good information, so I am happy that they were there. Your reply, George, made me smile at how we can provide so many replies for what, on the surface, seems like a simple question.

I removed the head, removed the shim that tightened the handle in the head, and then I created a new shim. First, i created an Oak shim, then I changed my mind and created one out of a software wood; poplar. I cut the shim using a back saw then I trimmed it down with a chisel so that I felt that it would provide a good fit.

I have been using the hatchet aggressively and the head is staying put.

I am happy that I did not need to create a new handle. I think that I could do it, but not having done it, it would be a new experience for me. I was particularly concerned with obtaining a properly shaped portion to fit through the head.

So, thanks for all the advice! It feels good to have accomplished this, especially when I was concerned about getting it right. I think that this would also apply to seating the head of a hammer.

Now I can start thinking about trying to find an axe (since I do not own one).

[Rick Malakoff]

If your looking for either an axe or hatchet, the best place is the local flee market for an older vintage American made axe by a reputable tool manufacture like PLUMB, Vaughn, Craftsman and True Temper just to name a few.
Don't discount just buying a descent vintage head and fitting a new handle/haft, in the end you'll have a better axe.

Rick

[lowell holmes]

You will find Swel-lok on Amazon if you want it.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I did check the bay to see what they had there, but most of what I saw was really expensive. I really need to find a decent flea market or similar. Steve Newman is really good at finding these bargains. I figure that I could probably find a couple of decent ax and hatchet heads and then I can practice making a few handles and fitting them.

I just need to figure out where to go to find them, if you know what I mean. So, any of you guys in the Columbus Ohio area, if you see a decent head cheap, keep me in mind.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Side note, if my great grandfather was still alive, I would just have him make a few for me; sadly I never really knew him, but I still have some of the things that he made.