What Wood for rolling pin?

[cody michael]

I saw a post about making a rolling pin, it was segmented out of contrasting Wood.

I have
Maple
Walnut
Cherry
Ash

Which of those are good choices?

[John K Jordan]

I saw a post about making a rolling pin, it was segmented out of contrasting Wood.

I have
Maple
Walnut
Cherry
Ash

Which of those are good choices?

I would use a finer grained wood if possible, as I would with most things used in food preparation. Cherry or maple would be my first choices, especially if the maple is a sugar/hard maple, followed by walnut. I personally avoid the coarser woods especially those with large, open pores.

JKJ

[Sid Matheny]

If it is not going to be used as a rolling pin go ahead and use them all. This is one I made a few years ago.

354354

[John Keeton]

The good Lord made Walnut and maple to be used together! IMO, it is the best wood combination - especially if the maple is curly. My wife has a very old and very curly maple rolling pin that is really neat.

[Shawn Pixley]

I'd go with maple. Rolling pins are never washed, just wiped down. I favor the french style myself for rolling pasta.

I wouldn't use an open grained type of wood or apply a finish if it is to be used.

[Reed Gray]

The ones you find in professional kitchens are hard/sugar maple, and beech. Probably no real issues with walnut, but it is rather coarse. If they are just being used for rolling out dough, just about any closed grain wood will work. If they are used for crushing anything harder than walnuts, the soft woods will dent. There seem to be a lot of the bamboo/plyboo pins out now as well. You can buy a pin for less than you can buy the sheet stock before you glue it up...

robo hippy

[cody michael]

I will use some combination or maple, cherry and walnut.

Is there any benefit to a smaller or larger rolling pin? What is a popular/recommended size?

Thank for your advice, that is one nice looking rolling pin.

[Reed Gray]

The choice for size and shape of rolling pin is as varied as the cooks/kooks themselves. I have made them from about 2 inch long for pot sticker pins, to a request for one almost 3 feet long for a specialized noodle. I would sell mostly ones with about a 12 inch roller, and handles, 2 to 3 inch diameter, which is pretty much the old school style. I did one piece rolling pins without the roller bearing handles. There seems to be a couple of styles of 'French' rolling pins. Some are straight with no handle, or gently rolled over end. Some are straight with a tapered end. Some are tapered from the center to the end in a straight line. Another variation that would sell fairly well was a 'palote' (means some thing like down ward stroke) which is about a 12 inch by maybe 1 to 1 1/2 inch diameter pin intended primarily for tortillas. Traditional for dads to make and give to their daughters at coming of age ceremony or marriage. 2 variations, straight cylinder, or tapered from center to ends.

robo hippy

[cody michael]

Ok, I was thinking something in the 12-14 inch range. I have a store bought one I think is around 16 inches. I was planning on have straight Pin with solid handles.

[Richard Dooling]

My preference is a maple rolling pin because it is dense and it has small evenly spaced pores. Cherry would be a good rolling pin wood also and it is very nice looking. I only know hard maple as a domestic wood appropriate for cutting boards.

I would not use walnut or ash because the pores are fairly large. Food and moisture may become embedded in there. I do treat “kitchen” wood with a food grade beeswax and mineral oil product to protect the wood from exposure to moisture and oils that may go rancid. It leaves a warm matte finish that is not at all greasy feeling.

From The Wood Database (http://www.wood-database.com/)

Hard maple:
diffuse-porous - small pores
6,450 N (Janka hardness (http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/janka-hardness/))

Black Cherry:
semi-ring-porous to diffuse porous - small pores
4,230 (Janka hardness)

Black Walnut:
semi-ring-porous - large early wood pores and medium latewood pores
4,490 N (Janka hardness)

White Ash:
ring-porous - large early wood pores and small latewood pores
5,870 N (Janka hardness)


Of course growing conditions have a huge influence on wood development and properties and I suspect that some of the denser walnut I’ve seen comes from cold environments.

If you’re interested, The Wood Database (http://www.wood-database.com/) site has 10x images of endgrain that shows the differences in pore structure very clearly. Lots of other great info there too.

[John K Jordan]

...I do treat “kitchen” wood with a food grade beeswax and mineral oil product to protect the wood...

What is "food grade beeswax", simply pure, yellow beeswax? I understand white beeswax is either pressure filtered, chemically filtered, or bleached with either sunlight or peroxide, often with aluminum or magnesium silicates added. I'd be less inclined to use chemically treated beeswax.

I use beeswax from my hives (no oil) for a soft luster, especially on eastern red cedar.

JKJ

[Richard Dooling]

What I use is Howard Butcher Block Conditioner. I forgot that in addition to the oil and beeswax it has carnauba. I don't know the particulars of how they process the oil and waxes. It's easy to use. Also I occasionally rinse my butcher block and rolling pin because dough can leave a difficult to remove film. It's really just wheat paste.

It has served me well on cutting boards, food bowls, rolling pins and toys.

They state:

"The penetrating quality of food-grade mineral oil along with the water-resistant traits of beeswax and carnauba wax rejuvenates the wood and prevents drying and cracking. The natural waxes help repair knife marks and protect the wood by keeping the mineral oil in and the moisture out."

[John Hart]

What is "food grade beeswax", simply pure, yellow beeswax? I understand white beeswax is either pressure filtered, chemically filtered, or bleached with either sunlight or peroxide, often with aluminum or magnesium silicates added. I'd be less inclined to use chemically treated beeswax.

I use beeswax from my hives (no oil) for a soft luster, especially on eastern red cedar.

JKJ

I absolutely agree

[Curt Harms]

Balsa, if there's a chance she'll apply with to your noggin with enthusiasm.

:D :D

Maple & Cherry seem like a good choice for a user.