Question for Festool RO sander users

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
Sorry if this has already been discussed - I"m looking at the ETS EC 125/3. It would be my first Festool product. I currently have a DeWalt DW421 ROS. One of the issues is the tendency of the thing to gouge the workpiece if I make contact when the sander is running and I don't do so mating perfectly. So to avoid this, I turn off the sander, and turn it back on when set in place, and then sand away. This is maddeningly time consuming and if I don't do it, surely enough, I'll end up seeing a subtle gouge once I apply finish.

I realize the Festool has a pad brake, but is there any feature about it that would lessen the risk of gouging like I'm describing?

Also, I see the Festool 9 hole pattern. My DeWalt has an 8 hole pattern. It looks like there are a bunch of holes on the bottom of the Festool pad, and the conventional 8 hole might line up with the inner ring of 8 holes in the pad, plus I can punch a hole for the center which I have heard is important - this is until I use up my existing stock of discs. Am I right on this, or do I need to spring for Festool 9 hole pattern discs right from the get go if I want adequate dust collection?

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

I never turn the sander on/off with it in contact with the workpiece...

As to pad inventory, as long as you can match up some reasonable number of the holes and can punch the center hole, you should have "reasonable" results using up your stock, but you will not get the dust collection quality available with the proper hole pattern. Or you could sell off the unused 8-hole abrasives and buy/use abrasives with the ideal hole pattern for your new sander.

[Edwin Santos]

I never turn the sander on/off with it in contact with the workpiece...

As to pad inventory, as long as you can match up some reasonable number of the holes and can punch the center hole, you should have "reasonable" results using up your stock, but you will not get the dust collection quality available with the proper hole pattern. Or you could sell off the unused 8-hole abrasives and buy/use abrasives with the ideal hole pattern for your new sander.

Thanks for the input. Since you set your sander in contact with the workpiece only when it's running, do you ever experience the minor gouging I'm describing (which happens if the sander is tipped even very slightly out of plane in relation to the workpiece)?

To be clear, the gouging I am describing is a very shallow, subtle kind of divot and basically invisible until you apply finish. Then with the increased reflection of light off the surface, carumba, there it is.

[John Sincerbeaux]

I NEVER turn any sander on or off unless it is contact work the surface. That is unless I want "gouges"😜

[Jim Becker]

I honestly have never had the described "gouging" issue...

[James Zhu]

I have Festool sander with its dust extractor, the dust extractor is set on automatic mode, on/off of the sander will turn on/off the dust extractor automatically. I always place the sander on the stock, then start the sander, after finishing the sanding, I take the sander off the stock very quickly while it is running, once the sander is off the stock, then turn off the sander.

by doing so, I never gouge the wood.

[Ed Labadie]

I honestly have never had the described "gouging" issue...

Neither have I. Always start and stop the sander off the workpiece.
In years past it was a PC or Milwaukee orbital, then an automotive "da", now all Festool.

I think starting/stopping on the work would make it worse....


Ed

[Greg R Bradley]

Don't even worry about gouging with any of the Festool RO sanders. It just isn't going to happen. Now the Festool Rotax sanders are another matter entirely as they can be a real beast in the rotary modes.
Toss your existing sanding paper or make it match. Either way the hole pattern is key to the unbelievably low dust with the Festool sanders that can be matched with some Mirka units but not with anything from any of the general sanding hoi polloi.

[Edwin Santos]

Don't even worry about gouging with any of the Festool RO sanders. It just isn't going to happen. Now the Festool Rotax sanders are another matter entirely as they can be a real beast in the rotary modes.
Toss your existing sanding paper or make it match. Either way the hole pattern is key to the unbelievably low dust with the Festool sanders that can be matched with some Mirka units but not with anything from any of the general sanding hoi polloi.
I was hoping for an answer like this. I have a feeling that the gouging thing is being influenced by the fact that mine is a cheap sander, especially since some of the other Festool RO users don't seem to know what I'm talking about. I don't remember the price but I'm sure it was under $60, 18 years ago. I've always felt it is kind of aggressive. It's served its purpose, time to step up. Thanks for the feedback and for throwing in the expression hoi polloi which was a bonus. Haven't heard that since Spaulding said it to the caddies in Caddyshack.

[Bob Cooper]

When you start your sander is it spinning or barely rotating?

[John Sincerbeaux]

I have had a few classes with Master Craftsman Paul Schurch. Before he taught me the art of Marquetry, I used to turn a sander on before I placed it on the surface. He teaches to never turn a sander on until it is on the work surface. He even removes veneer tape on veneer panels with a belt sander by placing the sander on a veneer piece then starts and stops the sander repeatedly, never allowing the sander to get up to speed. I think if you spend hours and hours on a decorative veneer or Marquetry panel, you will look at power sanding in a whole different way.
Check out Paul's work at www.veneerartist.com

[James Zhu]

This following video well illustrates how to use the sander properly. Never turn on a sander until you firmly hold it flat on the work surface, do not turn off the sander while it is running on the work surface.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZZyypf-Qqk

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I'm in the start and stop sander OFF the work piece group and never had any issues with gouging. I own the Festool ETS EC 150.

[Edwin Santos]

This following video well illustrates how to use the sander properly. Never turn on a sander until you firmly hold it flat on the work surface, do not turn off the sander while it is running on the work surface.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZZyypf-Qqk

Very interesting info in that video, thanks. I'm inclined to follow the manufacturer's recommendation.

[Shawn Pixley]

I don't have a Festool sander (I have a 5" Bosch RO purchased from a big box store 15+ years ago), but I have never had a problem with gouging.

I suspect that there is something wrong with your sander.

[Gary Muto]

I have ETS 150/3 and I usually rest it on the surface and then start it for horizontal surfaces. I think I turn it on first while sanding vertical surfaces but I never thought about that. I just got one of the Festool Pro 5 LTD and I think I always start it first since the work piece is so small.

Unrelated to your question: While sanding with the 150/3 I let the weight of the sander apply the downward force and just guide it. Sometime I start with 60 grit if I'm removing finish. I even do that with veneer (that has a finish on it) and I find that I have excellent control. I don't think a 5" sander weighs enough to do that but I never tried.

I've only used Festool sandpaper with their sanders. The stuff is expensive but it works better and lasts longer than any paper I used to use on my Porter Cable sanders. Some of that my attributed to the sander and the paper

Now the rotex sanders are a different story, especially the RO150

[Gary Muto]

I have ETS 150/3 and I usually rest it on the surface and then start it for horizontal surfaces. I think I turn it on first while sanding vertical surfaces but I never thought about that. I just got one of the Festool Pro 5 LTD and I think I always start it first since the work piece is so small.

Unrelated to your question: While sanding with the 150/3 I let the weight of the sander apply the downward force and just guide it. Sometime I start with 60 grit if I'm removing finish. I even do that with veneer (that has a finish on it) and I find that I have excellent control. I don't think a 5" sander weighs enough to do that but I never tried.

I've only used Festool sandpaper with their sanders. The stuff is expensive but it works better and lasts longer than any paper I used to use on my Porter Cable sanders. Some of that my attributed to the sander and the paper

Now the rotex sanders are a different story, especially the RO150

[sebastian phillips]

I own 3 festool sanders, and they are a pleasure to use.
That being said, if you're "gouging" your material, that sounds like operator error, not the sander.
I've used DeWalt, PC, Bosch, and Festool sanders; never gouged anything.
The pad must be flat to the surface, the entire time, or you will get some "gouging".
Well built, expensive tools can make a job easier/faster, but they're no substitute for a skilled operator.
Ideally, you start and stop the machine on the workpiece, dead flat.
That's not realistic production wise, however, when you're sanding multiple pieces.
Nobody wants to start/stop when you're sanding 30 stiles.
Keep the machine running, and "sweep" the sander onto and off of the material.
Use a light touch..