colorfill bleeding on swiss army knife

[Don Corbeil]

Hi Creek members.
I recently engraved a small victorinox knife handle, and had a problem with paint bleeding along the masking edge during colorfill. I used clear packing tape as a mask (perhaps that was the problem?), and used a couple of passes to get through the tape and engrave to a depth of about 1mm. I applied testor's model paint after engraving, and saw significant bleeding when removed. It looked like a good seal, but left an unacceptable result.

Question: What is your recommended masking product for a tight seal and preventing this type of bleed? Link? I'd like to have a 'go to' masking product that leaves nice crisp edges.

Thanks -


354016

[Gary Hair]

I would use Ikonics Laser Tape - it will laser extremely clean and you'll never have bleed like that.

[Mike Null]

I probably wouldn't have used masking. I'd use a paint for which I had a solvent and on a small item like that I'd put some solvent on a piece of paper (not paper towel) wrap that around a small block of wood and wipe over the painted area until the excess paint is gone.

One caveat--be sure the solvent doesn't attack the knife handle.

[Don Corbeil]

thanks for the feedback. I'm going to look up the ikonics masking tape, but I also wanted to ask Mike about what type of paint you have used in the past for something like this?

[Glen Monaghan]

The picture is so small and full of jpeg artifacts that I'm not sure I can even see the bleeding you're talking about. However, with a smooth plastic handle like that, I'd just engrave it without masking, apply a good acrylic hobby paint and squeegee most of the surface excess away without scooping out the fill, then work on something else until the paint cures enough to not smear when rubbed, and buff the surface clean with a cloth wrapped over a flat block (so as not to remove the fill paint which may not have fully cured yet).

[Don Corbeil]

The picture is so small and full of jpeg artifacts that I'm not sure I can even see the bleeding you're talking about.

Glen, I believe if you click on the photo, the image will open larger. At least it does when I view it.
But regardless, yes, I also though about using something like rub n buff in this way. The testors hobby paint I used seems to cure rather permanently on the victorinox handle, and quickly, too. Tough to remove, without removing some of the 'new knife sheen' and creating micro scratches. I used mineral spirits, and it took the sheen right off.
I think at this point, a really good mask (like Gary mentioned) or some sort of a paint that can be pressed into the letter depressions, and then wiped cleanly away.

[Bruce Clumpner]

Since the bleed is a fairly small area, how about using a fingernail? I do that all the time when I use acrylic liquid fill with a mask. It always fills in to the top of the mask, and I just use a fingernail to even it out. Since your nail is softer than the handle, it shouldn't leave any mark. At least it doesn't for me on stained and sealed baltic birch.

[Mike Null]

My "go to" paint for most things I engrave is craft acrylic. It cleans easily with dna or even water if it hasn't set.

[Don Corbeil]

Thanks everyone for your input. I have some acrylic craft paint already, and I went ahead and ordered a roll of the ikonic lasr tape. The next victorinox I colorfill should look a lot better.

[Kev Williams]

you should be able to wipe off the excess paint with a piece of old cotton sheet wrapped tight around your index finger, dampened with a little alcohol- just test the plastic first to make sure the alky doesn't attack it.