Planer Sled

[Jim Riseborough]

So I am working on a planer sled design looked though all the posts here, and decided to try one.

It will only be 4' long, and have slats every 12". I think I either will sandwich it and make a torsion type box, or leave the slats for the pieces to sit on. I am leaning towards what I show but also with a top.

If I do a top, what do you think about sandpaper to hold the wood from slipping? 353882

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I use a simple piece of particle board with melamine on both sides. I put a small strip on one end so that as the wood is pulled through it will hit that small strip. Obviously, the wood is flexible, so, I need to be careful when I shim the wood because the wood and the shims want to move.

One solution is to tape the shims in place or some people even hot melt them in place. More than one person has noted that they use the hot melt glue as the shim. I have a professional hot melt glue gun and when I tried that, it pulled the surface off the wood; oops.

If you use ribs as shown in your picture without the top portion, just make sure the ribs are close enough that the wood will not flex. The designs I have seen using the "ribs" usually have adjustable ribs. I wanted to build one of those, but based on time, I did not do that.

Sandpaper would do a good job of keeping things from shifting, that feels like a good solution to me. If you add that second top, that should really stiffen the sled.

I saw one solution where the "sled" was nothing more than a very thick piece of wood. In other words, that would be one very heavy sled.

I am very interested in your final result.

[glenn bradley]

The slats need to be adjustable for length. There must be a slat under the leading and trailing edge of the material. Put the jig on the floor, leave a leading or trailing edge of your board between slats and step on that edge. You'll get the idea without the injury. Think on it a bit ;-)

[Jim Riseborough]

The slats need to be adjustable for length. There must be a slat under the leading and trailing edge of the material. Put the jig on the floor, leave a leading or trailing edge of your board between slats and step on that edge. You'll get the idea without the injury. Think on it a bit ;-)

Thanks, yes I know the leading and trailing edge need support, thus why I think I will use a top too, to allow any length to be ran though the planer. It will also stiffen it up so it does not deflect.

[Jim Riseborough]

I use a simple piece of particle board with melamine on both sides. I put a small strip on one end so that as the wood is pulled through it will hit that small strip. Obviously, the wood is flexible, so, I need to be careful when I shim the wood because the wood and the shims want to move.

One solution is to tape the shims in place or some people even hot melt them in place. More than one person has noted that they use the hot melt glue as the shim. I have a professional hot melt glue gun and when I tried that, it pulled the surface off the wood; oops.

If you use ribs as shown in your picture without the top portion, just make sure the ribs are close enough that the wood will not flex. The designs I have seen using the "ribs" usually have adjustable ribs. I wanted to build one of those, but based on time, I did not do that.

Sandpaper would do a good job of keeping things from shifting, that feels like a good solution to me. If you add that second top, that should really stiffen the sled.

I saw one solution where the "sled" was nothing more than a very thick piece of wood. In other words, that would be one very heavy sled.

I am very interested in your final result.

Thanks, I am going to add the second top, and also a trailing edge stop. I think that and sandpaper will keep the wood from sliding around

[Mark W Pugh]

I simply use hot glue to hold the piece, and to hold up high edges. The hot glue does not compress, and pops off when complete.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks, yes I know the leading and trailing edge need support, thus why I think I will use a top too, to allow any length to be ran though the planer. It will also stiffen it up so it does not deflect.

Si, bueno. If the top is solid what will you use to compensate for the irregularities of the board to be planed? Hot glue and wedges certainly work. I built Keith Rust's version (http://www.finewoodworking.com/2005/10/25/a-planer-sled-for-milling-lumber) on a Saturday. It is now crude compared to some others that have come out. My cleats and wedges have the abrasive normally applied to stair tread for grip and nothing has ever slipped. It was quick to make and even though I now have a larger jointer, it still sit in the lumber rack for times I need to face joint even wider stock. Well worth a few hours of work. I do like the versions that have the trailing edge stop if for nothing else other than quick positioning.

354007 . 354008

By adding a little more bracing a-la torsion box, I think you could convert to 1/4" hardboard skins and still have plenty of rigidity while saving a few pounds (but, not much).

354009

[Adam Herman]

could you buy an appropriate width hollow core door and attach the wedges/support of your choice? a 12 in wide hollow core, hardboard door is certainly quite rigid and flat.

[Jim Riseborough]

I think a small sheet of MDF is cheaper, I can mill the slats from wood I have. a 2x4 sheet of MDF is about 10$, cut in half have my top and bottom.

Further down the road might make a longer one, maybe then that idea might work. Hopefully by then will have my jointer in the shop if needed.

[Lon Crosby]

There is a nice design in Shop Notes #137. A discussion about it here 6 months ago or so. Do a search for lots of discussion.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Thanks, I am going to add the second top, and also a trailing edge stop. I think that and sandpaper will keep the wood from sliding around

Sorry for the delay in my response to this, but..... My planer PULLS the wood through, so, I use a front end edge stop, not a trailing edge stop. I expect that yours is the same. Just something to think about.