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Bob Noles
10-13-2005, 7:26 PM
LOML purchased a dry sink some time back. Looks like a repoduction make of good pine with a dark stain only only and no other finish. The dealer told her to give it a good coat of Tung Oil "someday".

Well... while out in my shop working on some neander tools using Tung Oil, she caught me with the can in hand and informed me that I should do the dry sink while I had it out.

Yeah Right :eek: ..... Not before checking with the experts at SMC first I thought.

HELP!!!! Does this sound proper???

roy knapp
10-13-2005, 8:46 PM
Bob i sent you a E-mail

Bob Noles
10-13-2005, 8:59 PM
Roy,

Got it..... and thanks my old friend.

Jim Becker
10-13-2005, 9:24 PM
Bob, if the piece truely only has stain on it, the Tung Oil will work fine. But test it in an inconspicuous place first...to see if you like the effect. And remember "real" tung oil does take a bit of time to fully cure. Overcoating with anything before that happens can result in unintended results. If you do plan on top coating, use BLO. It will look the same as the Tung Oil, is a fraction of the cost and cures in a few days to a week...in fact, with a barrier coat of shellac, you can top coat within a couple days. (Not recommended with Tung Oil) Be sure to use de-waxed shellac if you plan on using anything with "polyurethane" in the ingredient list or is delivered as a water-bourne finish.

Bob Noles
10-14-2005, 8:43 AM
Thanks Jim..... your advice is always appreciated.

I hope to do oil only and then paste wax after cured.

Howard Acheson
10-15-2005, 9:35 AM
Keep in mind that there is pure, 100% tung oil and a myriad of faux "Tung Oil Finishes". The latter are oil/varnish mixtures that contain no real tung oil. Minwax Tung Oil Finish is the best known offender.

That said, tung oil finishes are much more durable finishes that pure, 100% tung oil. The varnish component adds protection and durability.