I need a jointer- Advice?

[Samuel Green]

Hi all,

I am in the process of setting up my workshop and have most of the tools I need with the last thing being a jointer. I am a craigslist guy and have put together a solid shop on a tight budget, looking to keep that going with the jointer. Im willing to be patient but I was curious if anyone has suggestions on what to keep an eye out for. 110v and 6 inch would be ideal as space is tight. I appreciate any tips!

Thanks,

Sam

[Phillip Mitchell]

What are you building and/or planning to build in your shop? A 6" jointer will be fine for some folks who don't ever work with anything rough over 4' long (and obviously 6" wide or less) but most folks find a 6" to be easily outgrown once you get into wanting some flexibility in dimensioning your own lumber.

It's going to be more expensive and you will need 220v (most likely) but I think an 8" would be a minimum, unless you are going to be working with primarily smaller stock. A lot of the rough boards that I find are over 6" wide and it's a pain and sometimes wasteful to rip stock down just to be able to face joint it.

Look for an older Delta DJ20, even older Rockwell 8", older Powermatic PM60, or even a used Grizzly, JET, Shop Fox, etc 8". I would expect to pay at least $500-700 for an 8" that is in decent, proper working condition and doesn't need anything major. You want to make sure that tables are flat, motor sounds good, and table being co planer is a plus, but that can be fixed with some fiddling. I would expect to have to change out the knives for new/sharp ones when you get it so familiarize yourself with that process. Lots of good videos on the web about that. The one from the Wood Whisperer is a good place to start that isn't too complicated to digest.

[Chris Hachet]

I am in the same boat and have been looking at used jointers. $600 seems to be the minumum for a decent used 8 inch jointer, and the new Grizley 8 inch jointers are roughly a grand or so IIRC.

Thinking new and Grizley may be in my future, as a lot of the older machines I have found have not been well maintained.

Only advice I can give is two fold....6 inch jointers seem to celebrate birthdays on craigslist, whereas an 8 inch jointer that is reasonably priced seems to disappear in a couple of hours. Keep cash ready and buy an 8 inch jointer, if nothing else for resale sake.

[Brad Barnhart]

I've had a delta bench top 6" jointer for years, No complaints. I bought a stand off ebay for something else, but bolted the jointer to it, & its a perfect fit! Take a look at Grizzly, too. It's all in how much you want to spend, & how much space you have.

[Wayne Cannon]

Bed length is beneficial for supporting longer boards. I wound up getting an 8" jointer for the bed length, despite the fact that I don't need the width.

[Chris Hachet]

Bed length is beneficial for supporting longer boards. I wound up getting an 8" jointer for the bed length, despite the fact that I don't need the width.IMHO you only need it once to miss it-every time I have bought a tool with excess capacity it has come in handy at some point.

[Steve Demuth]

So much depends on what you do in the shop. A good 6" jointer will do 99% of what you need if you you are making small furniture, boxes, or hanging cabinets. You're mostly jointing material under 4' and the 6" width is sufficient. But if you want to make tables, dressers, or cabinets with drawers, every project will make the limitations of the the smaller machine an issue for you. I've got a 6" Powermatic. About twice a year I wish I had a larger jointer, but more often than not, when I do, it's a 10 or 12" tool that I want, not an 8".

[Matt Day]

First of all jointers are simple machines. If the beds and fence are flat, cleaning up a machine that's not been well maintained is pretty easy.
For the OP, anything delta made more than 10 years ago should be fine. Grizzly's should be fine too as they are delta copies for the. It's part, and they offer replacement parts for most delta machines since they are interchangeable. There are plenty of other brands too like Jet and Powermatic.
I know you said space is tight but the difference between a 6" and 8" is not really that much. I have a 17' x 17' shop and have a 12". Started with a 6", then 8", now 12".
Where are you located Sam?

[glenn bradley]

I will forgo the warnings about a small jointer since you have already determined that a 6" machine is adequate for what you do. Many folks chime in on the "get an 8-inch or suffer the consequences" threads wondering what all the fuss is about; they have done well with 6" machines for years. My point being that while it did not work for me, a smaller machine is not "the devil" if your work is of that type or scale.

Being a Craig's List guy and seeking the most often upgraded machine, you have no doubt seen many 6" machines listed. I will respond to your request for "suggestions on what to keep an eye out for" in reverse as this may be more helpful. I would run far and run fast from any version of the Delta benchtop jointer currently offered as the Porter Cable PC160JT and appearing in other colors. I bought one new despite valid warnings and couldn't sell it fast enough. If you already had one I would help you fight it into occasional usefulness but, a jointer is one of those machines that if it does not work properly, it is useless. To quote Yoda "there is no try" in jointers.

Nearly any jointer that hangs off another machine made in the 50's is more of a cool curiosity than something I would want to get involved in trying to find parts for. Avoid any recent Delta offering as parts are non-existent. An exception may be the DJ-20 since Powermatic, Grizzly and others have cloned this machine to the point of parts exchangeability to some degree. My Grizzly G0490X is an example.

Jointers are fairly basic machines, like drill presses. Still, many manufacturers seem baffled by how to make a decent one . . . like drill presses :rolleyes:. I would also avoid any odd-ball name that you didn't recognize unless you can prove it to be a decent make that has been re-badged and has been cared for like a well loved pet. This warning comes from a parts availability position.

I'll continue rambling by stating that a dovetail-way jointer that is out of whack is often painful to get aligned, a parallelogram machine is much easier to setup or (more importantly in the case of used) correct. Take a straight edge with you. If it is a DT-way machine format and the tables are askew, low ball it (and explain why) or walk away.

[Jon Grider]

Ditto on most of the advice above. If you are on a very limited budget and a six inch jointer is the course you are going to take, the ubiquitous Craftsman from the 50's through the 80's on Craigslist may serve your needs. Not intending to start a Craftsman firestorm here, much of their machinery deserves the derisive name calling it receives in woodworking circles, but from my own experience, my daily user for over 25 years was a 1980 6" Craftsman jointer and it served me fine. I still have it in a storage room. The motor has oil ports for the bearings, and it's a very simple design with just the infeed table adjustable for depth of cut. In my neck of the woods these go for very cheap on CL. For short and narrow boards mine worked well. Not sure where you're at but I'll give you a good deal if your near SW Michigan.

[Samuel Green]

First of all jointers are simple machines. If the beds and fence are flat, cleaning up a machine that's not been well maintained is pretty easy.
For the OP, anything delta made more than 10 years ago should be fine. Grizzly's should be fine too as they are delta copies for the. It's part, and they offer replacement parts for most delta machines since they are interchangeable. There are plenty of other brands too like Jet and Powermatic.
I know you said space is tight but the difference between a 6" and 8" is not really that much. I have a 17' x 17' shop and have a 12". Started with a 6", then 8", now 12".
Where are you located Sam?

SF Bay Area. Thanks for the advice! Small shop here too, 10x15 roughly.

[John TenEyck]

With that small of a shop a used Inca J/P would fit your needs better than most any alternative. 10" of jointing and planing capacity in a footprint no bigger than a small jointer or lunchbox planer. I had one for 25 years and it was, and I assume still is for the Creeker I sold it to, a great machine. Broaden your search criteria. An Inca pops up every now and then.

John

[Myk Rian]

Look for one of these Rockwell/Delta machines.
It's a 37-315 8"
You'll thank me.

353776

[Gary Radice]

I just sold one of those 8" Delta machines and I agree is it is hard to beat. A vintage USA made Powermatic 6" or 8" would also be good, or a vintage 6" Delta. The Deltas from the 40's to the 60's with a cast iron base are particularly nice because they are so heavy and solid, but the open frame bases are also fine. Delta made a long bed and a short bed 6". The long bed is slightly more useful and takes up only slightly less space but I've had both and either is superb.




Look for one of these Rockwell/Delta machines.
It's a 37-315 8"
You'll thank me.

353776

[Chris Hachet]

Look for one of these Rockwell/Delta machines.
It's a 37-315 8"
You'll thank me.

353776


Quoted for Truth!

[Frank Drew]

Sam,

A well-made jointer of any size is better than no jointer. When I opened my own shop I bought an old (1950s) 12-inch Northfield, but I'd apprenticed in a shop that only had a 6-inch Delta/Rockwell, and we turned out high quality work, as often as not running long-ish and wide-ish material (a bit of a struggle but doable on a 6" jointer). If you can buy more of a machine, do so, but getting something into your shop and getting to work is more important, IMO, that waiting until you have a bigger shop or larger budget.

[Art Mann]

I used a 6 inch Ridgid jointer for many years and it served me well. I had no use for a larger one. Over time, the nature of my work changed. I needed a 12 - 16 inch jointer and 8 inches wouldn't do any better than a 6. I wound up with a 12 inch jointer/planer combination machine and I have been happy ever since. My point is the size of jointer you need depends entirely on the work you are doing. If you are just building standard frame cabinets, 6 inches is fine.

[Jim Riseborough]

https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/5993069206.html

Not sure its the best deal though.

[Bob Vaughan]

Get a cheap jointer, install sharpened knives, and get on with it. I do caution that the old Sears box-bed jointers take a little more finesse. That was my first jointer. Life got better when I got a jointer I could adjust both beds, but I did a heck of a lot of work with that box-bed Sears jointer. You'll later be able to sell it for an upgrade if needed.

[Samuel Green]

Surprisingly I found one of the Rockwell jointers somewhat nearby my house on craigslist. He wants $700 for it which I'm sure is fair I just don't have that to spend. I'm looking for that unicorn deal where I find a $1000 dollar jointer for 200 bucks!

https://merced.craigslist.org/tls/5944568854.html

[lowell holmes]

I have a 6" jointer. I can flatten wider boards by running the wide board on the jointer, leaving a 6" wide joined flat surface.

Then I attach that 6" wide surface to a recently joined 6" wide board with double sticky tape.

Then I run the package through my 15" Dewalt planer leaving a joined wide side, remove the 6" board and flatten that side on my planer.

[Chris Hachet]

I have a 6" jointer. I can flatten wider boards by running the wide board on the jointer, leaving a 6" wide joined flat surface.

Then I attach that 6" wide surface to a recently joined 6" wide board with double sticky tape.

Then I run the package through my 15" Dewalt planer leaving a joined wide side, remove the 6" board and flatten that side on my planer.


Seems like a rational work around.

[Samuel Green]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/tld/5995027355.html


Good deal??? Any advice much appreciated!

[Phillip Mitchell]

$400 for an 8" jointer is potentially a great deal. You should check it out in person to determine its condition more fully. Flat beds, fully functioning fence, co-planar beds, and a motor that works properly is a good start and if all that checked out and I was in the market, I would likely buy that jointer. I would bring a reliable 3' or longer straight edge and check out the the beds, a try square to check fence, and a test board to run it through if they have a 220 receptacle anywhere around. If I was unable to plug it in and test the motor, but everything else checked out then I would bargain down to $200-250 and/or look into a replacement motor before you do to try and determine how much that would set you back, should the motor be toast. Have that factor into what you bargain for.

Condition is everything...it looks like there is some rust? around the fence area. I'd check that out with both eyes and make sure everything moved around and locked down the way it needs to.

Have a friend help you move it and use a furniture dolly or something equivalent to wheel it around during the moving process.

Edit: Or you could sell some of those tools you stole from the estate sale and up your budget a bit and get a really clean used 8" jointer that has less unknowns.

[Samuel Green]

$400 for an 8" jointer is potentially a great deal. You should check it out in person to determine its condition more fully. Flat beds, fully functioning fence, co-planar beds, and a motor that works properly is a good start and if all that checked out and I was in the market, I would likely buy that jointer. I would bring a reliable 3' or longer straight edge and check out the the beds, a try square to check fence, and a test board to run it through if they have a 220 receptacle anywhere around. If I was unable to plug it in and test the motor, but everything else checked out then I would bargain down to $200-250 and/or look into a replacement motor before you do to try and determine how much that would set you back, should the motor be toast. Have that factor into what you bargain for.

Condition is everything...it looks like there is some rust? around the fence area. I'd check that out with both eyes and make sure everything moved around and locked down the way it needs to.

Have a friend help you move it and use a furniture dolly or something equivalent to wheel it around during the moving process.

Edit: Or you could sell some of those tools you stole from the estate sale and up your budget a bit and get a really clean used 8" jointer that has less unknowns.

Thanks for the detailed response Phillip! I have absolutely considered that. I don't see myself using the wooden planes so I may look in to moving those and replacing with a solid jointer. I've just had great luck finding used tools for cheap so I naturally look for that option first! Thanks for the feedback on the grizzly though.

Sam

[William Shelley]

I'm a hobbyist although I use that term a bit loosely. so far almost all of my woodworking energy has gone into finish work and other items for my house. But I'm nearing the point where I'll be done with that kind of stuff and can move on to more fun projects like furniture, boxes, etc.

A 6" jointer has been okay for the kind of stuff I've needed to use it for, but it was not difficult at all to convince myself I needed to upgrade. I also needed to upgrade my planer.... ended up blowing my budget for tools for the next two years and ordering a Baileigh JP-1686 16" x 86" jointer/planer combo machine with a helical cutterhead. I got a used showroom/floor model for about $4100 shipped. I don't think you can buy too big of a jointer, although this unit has a 3-phase motor which makes it more complicated to own so maybe that's the threshold where it's "too big". Grizzly makes the G0609x 12" jointer w/ spiral cutterhead for about $3200 shipped, which was what I was considering before I bought the Baileigh unit.

The bigger the jointer, the quieter and easier it is to use. Even a 6" jointer still needs 8 feet of clear space on each end of the tables for jointing long stock so the larger machines don't really take up *that* much more room. My advice is get the absolute biggest unit you can afford and then buy cheap rough-sawn lumber, and dress it yourself, to help pay for the machine.

[Samuel Green]

Quoted for Truth!

Ok team, i found this one. Its about 3 hours from my house but could be worth the drive. Let me know what you think.

Thanks!

Sam

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/tls/6005509283.html

[Jim Riseborough]

Ok team, i found this one. Its about 3 hours from my house but could be worth the drive. Let me know what you think.

Thanks!

Sam

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/tls/6005509283.html

Figure another 100 for gas, still a good deal.

[Russell Smallwood]

This thread is a little stale, but I thought I'd add my .02

For me, making furniture, here are my requirements in order of importance:

1.)Flat/straight beds
2.)Table LENGTH
3.)Helical cutter
4.)Width

I recently needed a new jointer when the 37-190 of 15 years died. I called around and found a PM 60 used for really cheap. I had decided that I needed an 8" jointer in the worst way since thats what everyone said. I went to the store, cash and straight edge in hand and was very disapointed when I found the beds to be warped. This place had several 8" jointers, new and used in stock so I decided to look around.

I sampled at least 5 jointers, and found EVERY SINGLE bed to need work. Very discouraged to say the least. So I opened up my requirements and finally found a PM54HH (6" powermatic with helical head) that was dead flat. Bought it on the spot. I told the saleman that I wanted this jointer, his reply was, "OK, let me see if I have any in stock", to which I replied, no, I want THIS jointer.

So, yes, I settled for 6" jointer with a helical head, but I knew it was dead flat.

Best decision I've made in a while. It's probably the best tool in my workshop that doesn't say Clifton or Lie Neilson and I've never regretted not having the extra 2 inches.

I guess the bottom line is, make sure you understand what the tool is supposed to do and make your decision based on how well it will perform that particular function. There are a LOT of jointers out there that don't actually do what they are supposed to do, despite the technical specs.

Just my opinion.

[Chris Hachet]

This thread is a little stale, but I thought I'd add my .02

For me, making furniture, here are my requirements in order of importance:

1.)Flat/straight beds
2.)Table LENGTH
3.)Helical cutter
4.)Width

I recently needed a new jointer when the 37-190 of 15 years died. I called around and found a PM 60 used for really cheap. I had decided that I needed an 8" jointer in the worst way since thats what everyone said. I went to the store, cash and straight edge in hand and was very disapointed when I found the beds to be warped. This place had several 8" jointers, new and used in stock so I decided to look around.

I sampled at least 5 jointers, and found EVERY SINGLE bed to need work. Very discouraged to say the least. So I opened up my requirements and finally found a PM54HH (6" powermatic with helical head) that was dead flat. Bought it on the spot. I told the saleman that I wanted this jointer, his reply was, "OK, let me see if I have any in stock", to which I replied, no, I want THIS jointer.

So, yes, I settled for 6" jointer with a helical head, but I knew it was dead flat.

Best decision I've made in a while. It's probably the best tool in my workshop that doesn't say Clifton or Lie Neilson and I've never regretted not having the extra 2 inches.

I guess the bottom line is, make sure you understand what the tool is supposed to do and make your decision based on how well it will perform that particular function. There are a LOT of jointers out there that don't actually do what they are supposed to do, despite the technical specs.

Just my opinion.


This is actually excellent advice, thanks for your post. I found this helpful.

[Jim Riseborough]

This thread is a little stale, but I thought I'd add my .02

For me, making furniture, here are my requirements in order of importance:

1.)Flat/straight beds
2.)Table LENGTH
3.)Helical cutter
4.)Width

I recently needed a new jointer when the 37-190 of 15 years died. I called around and found a PM 60 used for really cheap. I had decided that I needed an 8" jointer in the worst way since thats what everyone said. I went to the store, cash and straight edge in hand and was very disapointed when I found the beds to be warped. This place had several 8" jointers, new and used in stock so I decided to look around.

I sampled at least 5 jointers, and found EVERY SINGLE bed to need work. Very discouraged to say the least. So I opened up my requirements and finally found a PM54HH (6" powermatic with helical head) that was dead flat. Bought it on the spot. I told the saleman that I wanted this jointer, his reply was, "OK, let me see if I have any in stock", to which I replied, no, I want THIS jointer.

So, yes, I settled for 6" jointer with a helical head, but I knew it was dead flat.

Best decision I've made in a while. It's probably the best tool in my workshop that doesn't say Clifton or Lie Neilson and I've never regretted not having the extra 2 inches.

I guess the bottom line is, make sure you understand what the tool is supposed to do and make your decision based on how well it will perform that particular function. There are a LOT of jointers out there that don't actually do what they are supposed to do, despite the technical specs.

Just my opinion.


Alot of us suffer from "Bigger is Better" Syndrome.

[Matthew Hills]

Maybe take a look at this Powermatic 6":
https://monterey.craigslist.org/tls/6006407192.html

Although, I could've sworn you had a couple of jointer (hand) planes from the estate sale...

I did get a 1930's-era 6" Delta (model 37-220) about 10 years ago.
It's worked well for milling within its capacity.
For wider boards, I use a hand plane to remove twist and bow so that I can send them through planer.
I use hand plane for finished surfaces.

Matt

[glenn bradley]

I'm looking for that unicorn deal where I find a $1000 dollar jointer for 200 bucks!

A worthy endevour. I will just re-emphasize that patience is the key. A jointer that doesn't joint well is a boat anchor; close enough is a waste of time.

[Samuel Green]

Quoted for Truth!


https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/tls/6005509283.html

Thoughts on this one? I offered $150.

[Robyn Horton]

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/tls/6005509283.html

Thoughts on this one? I offered $150.

I have that exact jointer and its a good one . Updated it to a Byrd head and when its running its super smooth hardly know its running. Think $150 is a steal on it .
One other good thing is you can almost put it right up to a wall on the back cause there is not much sticking out back there.

[Samuel Green]

OK, I think I found the one I am going to buy assuming you guys don't tell me its a horrible deal. Its a barely used Delta DJ-15 for $350. I am supposed to pick it up on Saturday so if you are able to let me know your thoughts this week that would be very helpful!

Thanks!

Sam

[michael langman]

That Rockwell delta jointer is a heck of a deal at 175.00. I wish it was near me!

[Jim Riseborough]

i would have bought the other one for 175 if it ran!

[Jeff Ramsey]

Look for one of these Rockwell/Delta machines.
It's a 37-315 8"
You'll thank me.

353776

I just picked one up this weekend (same model). I am already thanking me. Great machine.

[Larry W Owens]

How much should one of these guys go for? There's one near me but he wants $850 for it. That seems high to me considering the price of a new Grizzly.


Look for one of these Rockwell/Delta machines.
It's a 37-315 8"
You'll thank me.

353776

[Chris Hachet]

How much should one of these guys go for? There's one near me but he wants $850 for it. That seems high to me considering the price of a new Grizzly.Here in the mid west any 8 inch jointer in decent shape seems to be selling quickly regardless of price. One would think that jointers would be common on craigslit and used, but that does not seem to be the case.

[Larry W Owens]

Here in the mid west any 8 inch jointer in decent shape seems to be selling quickly regardless of price. One would think that jointers would be common on craigslit and used, but that does not seem to be the case.

I'm in the midwest as well and I agree with that statement. The last few 8" have vanished quick. One that was a bargain was gone in hours here. There was also an antique unit that was a fair bit aways and not that cheap that vanished before I could see it. I was hoping it'd have lingered so I could make an offer but no luck.

Still, $850 seems high to me on the Rockwell.

[Chris Hachet]

I'm in the midwest as well and I agree with that statement. The last few 8" have vanished quick. One that was a bargain was gone in hours here. There was also an antique unit that was a fair bit aways and not that cheap that vanished before I could see it. I was hoping it'd have lingered so I could make an offer but no luck.

Still, $850 seems high to me on the Rockwell.

IMHO either network with other woodworkers, get ready to rebuild an older unit old Arn style, or buy from Grizzly. I have a tentative deal with another member here that should work out quite well. If that falls through, I have located a couple of older Powermatics in need of love. If that all falls through I will be calling Grizzly with my credit card #.

I am wanting to do the Planer/jointer/Bandsaw thing and get back to buying hand tools. That being said, I have had a blast looking at old iron.

Regards,

Chris