Upgrading parallel clamps

[Sean Hagerty]

Have some 24" and 48" Irwin clamps, they work ok, but after too many glue ups that didn't get cleaned up all the way I am having trouble getting them to clamp properly.

So, I am looking to upgrade. I figure I use the 24 inchers mostly, so those get replaced first. I need 4 each. Anyone want to recommend a replacement set? Hopefully one that has a discount.

[Mark Bolton]

My only advice would be dont by Revo's. They are the worst clamps we've ever owned. I'd opt for good pipe clamps over parallels any day of the week.

[Sean Hagerty]

I have had troubles with the pipe from the pipe clamps causing discolored spots on the wood

[Nick Decker]

I have four of the new Yost parallel clamps and like them fine. I mentioned them in an earlier thread, and didn't come across anyone else that had tried them. I can't compare them to Besseys or Jets because these are my first parallel clamps. They're quite a bit cheaper than Jets, and seem to run about the same as the Bessey Jrs. Their fit and finish is very nice and they seem plenty strong enough for me.

You might try a couple from Amazon, if they don't measure up for you, send 'em back.

[jack duren]

How you use a clamp to clamp and to clamp what would help. Only a few options for parallel clamps and if your not cleaning them, well that's another story...

[Sean Hagerty]

I failed when I started out in wood working by not cleaning them well.

I do a lot of cutting boards, end grain and long grain. So, lots of hardwoods clamped together with a lot of squeeze out, that gets wiped off right after clamping, then it sits for a few hours before unclamping. Then I will attempt to clean them.

[Dan Rude]

First, I would see about trying to clean the glue off of the Irwins. In order of preference Jet (they also make a 31" size that is a nice size that I like.) Then maybe if you can still find them Jorgensen brand. Then if you want some lighter ones Dubuque Aluminum Bar Clamps. Lee Valley carries them and will have free shipping starting on the 2/7. The are also available from http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/uniclamps.htm and https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-ABAR.XX/Universal_Bar_Clamps. I do not own them yet, but reviews are great. Dan

[Mark Bolton]

Just pick up a brass wire cup wheel for your angle grinder or drill and clean them off. Works like a charm.

[Neil Gaskin]

The Dubuque clamps have a very attractive price point. Might need to order some of those.

[Frederick Skelly]

Lee Valley will have free shipping starting on 2/7.

How did you happen to hear this Dan? I don't see it on their website yet?

[Ben Rivel]

Own many and highly suggest the Bessey K-Body REVO's. Not the JRs though, those arent the same deal. They are pricey but theyve been the standard for many years for a reason.

[Van Huskey]

My favorites are the Jet parallel clamps, by a long shot. Jorgensen and Bessey are 2 and 3. I have at least 20 of each brand.

[Dan Rude]

Lee Valley Free Shipping on orders $40 or more between February 7 and 21 , 2017. Was announced in their Winter 2017 catalog, which I just received on 4 Feb. Dan

[Ben Rivel]

Lee Valley Free Shipping on orders $40 or more between February 7 and 21 , 2017. Was announced in their Winter 2017 catalog, which I just received on 4 Feb. Dan
Awesome! Love it when they do the free shipping thing! Thanks for the heads up!

[andy bessette]

I favor the Jorgenson Pony clamps.

[roger wiegand]

My only advice would be dont by Revo's. They are the worst clamps we've ever owned.

Why do you say that? I've been very happy with the ones I have. Not quite as much pressure as pipe clamps can apply, but a lot easier to use, and almost always adequate to the task.

One of my goals in recent times has been to use better fitted joints and less brute force to make parts that are almost right go together. The parallel jaw clamps seem to be helpful in doing that.

[Jim Becker]

All of my parallel clamps are Bessey K-Body (the original version) and while the majority are the 24" size, I also have a couple 30", several 40" and four 60". I'd really like a few more 30", if only for better "shop safety". ;) Long clamps on shorter things leave a lot of metal hanging out in the breeze, ready to catch you when you least suspect it.

I'm not "married" to Bessey for parallel clamps, however. Most are "good" and price is a consideration.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I like my Jets. In case you didn't know, and I don't know if others have since followed, but the Jets have measurement markings which makes a small bit of difference when setting them up.....

[Larry Copas]

I do a lot of cutting boards, end grain and long grain.

For cutting boards I only use Pony 72's or Hargrave I beam clamps. I don't know if the Pony 72's are still sold. I like being able to crank em down.

For parallel clamps I like most, but like Stanley and Cabinet Masters the best. I know the Stanley's are gone and I think the Cabinet Masters are endangered.

[Mark Bolton]

Its just been our experience. We only have 4 parallels in the shop (for a reason). Two are Jets that were free on a promo and two Revo's we bought in a pinch. The Jets are fine and the trigger actuated release is smooth. They dont suffer from a bit of glue on the beam. That said I cant justify the cost of the parallels in the first place. The two 60" Jets that were free would have cost $160 to buy retail!!! We could probably put together 8-10 3/4"x40" pipe clamps for that. The two Revos are the clumsiest, fussiest, most frustrating, clamps in the shop. Every employee Ive had who has had their hands on every clamp in the shop hates the Revo's to the point that if they handnt cost nearly $60 for the two of them they would be in the dumpster by now. They are the fussiest clamps in the world for even the tinyest bit of glue on the beam. Engaging the clamping action with the rocking motion of the hand screw is cumbersome at best. They (nor are any of the parallels) are not parallel especially under pressure.

Everyone in the shop has always been a fan of 3/4" pipe clamps or Ibars and you can buy nearly 3 full setups for the price of a single parallel. That means if your thinking of have 15 parallels in the shop you could have 45 high quality pipe clamps (expandable to any length) for the same money that will perform clean or dirty. Just my $0.02 but we cant be worried about clamps getting a bit of glue on them here and there and having to fuss with constant cleaning/caution/maintenance along with the time suck of fumbling around with sticky/clumsy action. We keep the beams on the parallels heavily waxed and hit them with a brass cup wheel when they get glue on them but those are all steps that are never taken with pipe/Ibars. We've probably got 75 pipe/ibars in the shop and I cant imagine what the cost would be to have them in parallels, forget about the fussing.

Having used both for many years I have just never been able to find the advantage to the parallels given the 3x cost.

[Edwin Santos]

I'm amazed to hear the negative reviews on Bessey Revos. They are the only parallel clamp I have, maybe 20 or so, and I have always thought they were great, really great. But now I'm wondering if in reality they suck and I just never knew it.

It reminds me of a divorced friend who told me he always thought his (ex) wife was awesome until one day he figured out she wasn't.

[Marc Burt]

I hate the revo and the Jet. They're just too dang big. I don't know why the clamp companies think we work with massive 12x12" timbers or something. I love my old Besseyl k bodies and they are still going strong thankfully. I've read this glue thing a lot on the forums and just don't get it. I've never cleaned my clamps and they work perfectly fine.

All that said I've recently bought some paralllel clamps from Peachtree (their private label brand can't remember what they call it) and like them so far. They're the same size as my original Bessey's and not the huge god awful monstrosities the others are. I haven't had them long enough to be comfortable recommending them but I do like the size and they SEEM well made - but time will tell. Happily they're slightly cheaper than the Jets of which I do have a few but they are wretched compared to my original K Bodies.

[Mark Bolton]

I'm amazed to hear the negative reviews on Bessey Revos. They are the only parallel clamp I have, maybe 20 or so, and I have always thought they were great, really great. But now I'm wondering if in reality they suck and I just never knew it.

It reminds me of a divorced friend who told me he always thought his (ex) wife was awesome until one day he figured out she wasn't.

I think that what you will find is that some "entity" has set the cool/lust factor for many tool's/items in the shop that overarchingly trump any cost benefit analysis or realistic comparison of performance.

I love the guy (im a MA native and apprenticed with people that knew him personally) but Norm kicked off the parallel frenzie and it's stuck for the long haul. No complaints here.

My perspective on parallels is not biased by my own views. I've had employees in the shop who have never operated clamps in their life but are held to quality standards and none that have been in the shop for any period gravitate to parallels. To the contrary they find them too slow and fussy. Lilkely some different workflow contributes to that but even members of local hobby colaboratives that swing in don't care for them.

I'm a whatever floats your boat guy... But believe in people having all the information.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have been using the aluminum bar clamps in the 24" size a lot. Mostly for glue-ups but sometimes for assembly. These are the work horses in my shop these days. Currently have 4 but plan to secure 4 more soon. I have 6 of the Bessey clamps but at 50" long, only get used for assembly of case goods.

[Ben Rivel]

I'm amazed to hear the negative reviews on Bessey Revos. They are the only parallel clamp I have, maybe 20 or so, and I have always thought they were great, really great. But now I'm wondering if in reality they suck and I just never knew it.

It reminds me of a divorced friend who told me he always thought his (ex) wife was awesome until one day he figured out she wasn't.
Ive got a couple dozen myself. They dont suck. Far from it in fact. They do the job well. Now, are there other, less expensive ways to get the job done? Sure, there usually is. But the REVOs are top notch and complaints about them are probably more due to their price than anything else. Imagine if they were $10 a clamp. Everyone here would be using them and nothing else.

[Mark Bolton]

Ive got a couple dozen myself. They dont suck. Far from it in fact. They do the job well. Now, are there other, less expensive ways to get the job done? Sure, there usually is. But the REVOs are top notch and complaints about them are probably more due to their price than anything else. Imagine if they were $10 a clamp. Everyone here would be using them and nothing else.

Not true for us. I have long touted the FWW article that states that virtually no one applies enough clamping force to any joint. The old adage that "you'll squeeze all the glue out" or "you need to leave room for glue" has been tested and disproven over and over. For anyone running hand clamps, unless you spaced them 4" apart, its virtually impossible to over-clamp any joint. Especially a long grain glue up. With that, a parallels clamping force is virtually nothing compared to a heavy pipe clamp or Ibar. So if paralells were the exact same price as a pipe clamp they still wouldnt be in my shop. The only comparable clamp on price is an Ibar (no longer availble) and I have always bought Ibars over parallels for the same money.

[andy bessette]

Pipe clamps are usually too heavy for the work I do. And it is possible to apply too much pressure, if one isn't careful.

[Mark Bolton]

Pipe clamps are usually too heavy for the work I do. And it is possible to apply too much pressure, if one isn't careful.

Undoubtedly due to repeated access to the article (and hoping to gain revenue) FWW has put the full article their paid subscriber section but this is the lead in

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/05/11/how-to-glue-up-joints-different-woods-need-different-clamping-pressure

I would argue that unless you have a commercial clamp station there is no physical way that you could be applying too much clamp pressure. Leaving room for glue means your trusting the bond to the strength of the cured glue on its own. Thats not the way glue works. Your trying to get the wood fibers as close to each other as possible allowing the glue to knit them together. It'd be like holding onto your friend at each end of an icicle. Not very strong when the icicle snaps. But if your arm in arm, and the ice forms all around your bodies, elbows, arms, wrists, the bond is much stronger.

[glenn bradley]

Sorry I didn't run into this sooner. I would have predicted a wide and sometimes unbelievable range of responses ;-) I could have also predicted a "drill press thread" sort of outcome.

The clamps you prefer will be directly related to what you do. This is why you get a wide range of responses. As you've discovered, the Irwins are not all that but, can be had on sale at Rockler and the like for a good price. I have not been able to bring myself to buy any even on sale. When K-bodys were discontinued I went with the sub-par Groz K-body clones from Woodcraft as they were functional and dimensionally identical to K-bodys (or close enough).

I have some Bailey's which, despite a bar nearly as massive as the Jets, flex more than the Groz and way more than the Besseys. I find the Jets a bit too flexible as well. Parallel clamps are priced to remain parallel under pressure; many do not. Alas, I can't bring myself to pay the price for Revo's either although that is probably your best bet if you do things that benefit from parallel clamps. Bessey must've been sniffing Festool's marketing plans and figured Americans will gladly pay too much for decent German products.

Fortunately, early on I would grab a Bessey K-body any time they were on sale for a dollar an inch or less. At one point I thought I had over done it but, now, of course, I am glad. This would not be the case if I didn't like them ;-) I have pipe clamps for when I need more force than precision and when you need that, a pipe clamp is your best friend.

It may be that a combination of pipe clamps and aluminum bar clamps would work for you without breaking the bank. I could make this work for the things I do. I wouldn't be as happy but, I could definitely make them work as long as I had my arsenal of Bessey UniKlamps and mighty minis. What works for you will undoubtedly be different.

[andy bessette]

...there is no physical way that you could be applying too much clamp pressure...

Mark--we'll have to disagree. When using glue such as WEST epoxy, saturation takes time. So, if you squeeze out all the glue, a dry joint can result. (The formulator warns of this) On the other hand, if you wait too long to apply clamping pressure, the glue may harden before you can get the joints fully closed.

Also too much clamping pressure may distort a delicate or fragile glue-up.

[Mark Bolton]

Sorry I didn't run into this sooner.

Glenn,
I agree 1000% with "the type of work you do" and perhaps moreso to workflow. If you get your material very close to finish prior to glue up things like squeezout, clamp marks, and so on, are more of an issue. That said, the old tried and true clamps dont exhibit ANY flaws that you mention? Flex, size, price, and so on. If we are going to glue up a 24" x 24" end table top we will use 3 pipe clamps (one to balance bow) or 3 parallels (same one to balance bow). One operation cost $54 worth of clamps (pipe) or $90 worth of clamps (parallel). Where does the parallel excel? The panel is over sized. It doesnt require any special clamping as it will be dimensioned once out of the clamps. Any whiffle waffle in the panels sections will be a result of poor jointing not clamping. If the jointing is off, and we use cauls to force the panel flat, likelihood is the panel is going to go where it wanted to initially (or close) once it eqillibrates?

[Mark Bolton]

Mark--we'll have to disagree. When using glue such as WEST epoxy, saturation takes time. So, if you squeeze out all the glue, a dry joint can result. (The formulator warns of this) On the other hand, if you wait too long to apply clamping pressure, the glue may harden before you can get the joints fully closed.

Also too much clamping pressure may distort a delicate or fragile glue-up.

Well now your fudging the math lol. ;-) Its pretty much a given that most general woodworking conversations would be pertaining to every day wood glue ups using PVA. If one is going to insinuate that a single conversation is going to encompase every thing from PVA, to uF, to Epoxy, and then on through to RF cured glues, we're lost. WEST in a general clamp conversation is a stretch to say the least. But touche' ........

[andy bessette]

"Every day" wood glue-ups around boats, and thus for me, deal with such as WEST epoxy. So generalizations, like "you can't put too much clamping pressure" are bound to fail. With epoxy glues, and good fitment, not much pressure is required.

[Mark Bolton]

"Every day" wood glue-ups around boats, and thus for me, deal with such as WEST epoxy. So generalizations, like "you can't put too much clamping pressure" are bound to fail. With epoxy glues, and good fitment, not much pressure is required.

Again, touche. This isnt a boat building forum. ;-)

[Dave Lehnert]

FYI- Jorgensen went out of business last summer.

[jack duren]

Again, touche. This isnt a boat building forum. ;-)

Agree..........

[Sean Tracey]

I agree with Mark Bolton. Parallel clamps are mostly too expensive, too heavy, too clumsy, too limited in length choices, too difficult to tighten to the needed force. I find pipe clamps to be far superior for most applications.

The large jaw surface of Parallel clamps is actually an impediment in many situations compared to the shape of pipe clamps. They actually aren't all that parallel and can throw a box out of square whereas the pipe clamp squeezes on the edges and avoids such problems. You can crank the pressure easily to anything you need because the grip is designed for leverage instead of some ridiculous screwdriver handle.

Using bowed cauls is also easier with pipe clamps, because it is easier to quickly crank over a longer clamp range and draw up the bow in the cauls.

It may be useful to have a set of 4 parallel clamps, but I wish I had bought fewer of them and more pipe clamps. In the future, I will be adding more pipe clamps, but I won't be buying anymore parallel clamps.

I will also try some of the Dubuque clamps in the 36" length as they are super light and easy to adjust. More expensive than pipe clamps, but there are times when I would like a set of really light clamps.

Still, most of my clamps should be pipe clamps.

[jack duren]

They do have their place when a pipe clamp just won't work...
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[jack duren]

You should have a variety of clamps for different situations....

[Mark Bolton]

You should have a variety of clamps for different situations....

Agreed 100%

[Wade Lippman]

Then if you want some lighter ones Dubuque Aluminum Bar Clamps. Lee Valley carries them and will have free shipping starting on the 2/7. The are also available from http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/uniclamps.htm and https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-ABAR.XX/Universal_Bar_Clamps. I do not own them yet, but reviews are great. Dan


I have a dozen of these and are all I use. I also have some parallel jets, and some pipe clamps, but never use them unless I have to.

[David T gray]

you can get the alum bar clamps for a lot cheaper other places then lee vally.

[David Eisenhauer]

I used to build replacement kitchen cabinets in my small commercial shop and I have a bazillion of the 24" "Universal" brand aluminum bar clamps that I used for gluing up panels for raised panel doors and face frame glue up to the carcase where I did not want to use any fasteners. I have some of the older style "I Bar" Jorgensen clamps in various lengths that I used for glue work on cases, furniture, etc, but the aluminum bar clamps work very well and are much, much lighter to handle.

[Jim Andrew]

I have about 40 Jorgenson parallel clamps, and like them for assembly, as they help you clamp things up square. I use my I beam clamps for panels, have 18 of them in various lengths. I use 12" F clamps for the cauls, on glue up panels. Only time I use the I beams for assembly, is when something does not want to pull together. And once in a while it does not. Interested in the aluminum bar clamps, just not the Harbor Freight ones. Only break out the pipe clamps when out of everything else.

[David Eisenhauer]

To repeat, the same 24" Universal brand (same as Dubuque) aluminum bar clamps have served me for 30 years or so and were not (at least when I got them back when) not very expensive when I bought them a dozen at a time. The only maintenance they get is a wire brushing with liquid graphite (or WD 40 if I am out of the good stuff) as a lubricant on the screw gets sticky and won't spin freely with a finger flick.

[Don Bullock]

I have several different brands of parallel clamps. All of them were bought on some "special deal." By far the Jet clamps are the first ones I grab when I'm setting up for gluing. The others fill in when I need extras.

[Michael Koons]

I really like my old Bessey K Body clamps. These are the ones where the whole housing is red. The newer ones (don't know when they came out with them) have black covers on the mouth opening. I don't like these as much. Various parts have cracked or broken after falling off the bench. Since things do tend to fall in shops (at least mine), I feel things like this shouldn't happen.

Love my older Bessey's and Jorgensens. If I buy more 24" clamps, will probably go with Dubuque.

[Ben Rivel]

If I buy more 24" clamps, will probably go with Dubuque.Those look nice, think Ill pick up a few of them to try.

[Bill Dindner]

Just finished glue up of a large bookcase that I made fixed shelves using Dominos for Joinery, needed allot of Clamps, and they need to be at least 32" Capacity, I have a hodgepodge of brands, but mainly 3/4 Bar Clamps, hard to Justify as a Hobbyist getting 10-20 Parralel Clamps, I really like the Jet Clamps, might pick up some when they go on sale, not very happy with My Irwin clamp, quite fussy.

[Larry Edgerton]

I really like my old Bessey K Body clamps. These are the ones where the whole housing is red. The newer ones (don't know when they came out with them) have black covers on the mouth opening. I don't like these as much. Various parts have cracked or broken after falling off the bench. Since things do tend to fall in shops (at least mine), I feel things like this should happen.

Love my older Bessey's and Jorgensens. If I buy more 24" clamps, will probably go with Dubuque.

Agreed. I like the square head without the lip, have been watching craigslist as I don't see any I like as well.

[richard b miller]

does anyone know whats going on with Jorgensen clamps? they aren't as available as all the others. HD stopped carrying them and
a few of the webpages i've looked at, looking for them, they aren't available

[Edwin Santos]

does anyone know whats going on with Jorgensen clamps? they aren't as available as all the others. HD stopped carrying them and
a few of the webpages i've looked at, looking for them, they aren't available

Jorgensen went out of business last year. Unless you can find a retailer who still has some lingering inventory, you will only find Jorgys at garage sales, CL, etc.

[Frederick Skelly]

In the work I do (hobbyist only, building small furniture and boxes), I have never had a break in a glue joint that was long grain to long grain. Not even after years. And I never overtighten my clamps. So I'm just not buying everything FWW said. But I'm a hobbyist. Pro's may have different needs, experiences and concerns.

I have been using mostly F-clamps for years. Cheap, plentiful and useful. But I recently tried the JET parallels - and for me - they were an improvement. They kept the glue-up square and level with a minimum of fuss and adjustment. Far better than my F-clamps, even at 2-3 times the price.

I haven't used my pipe clamps in a long time. But I remember thinking "man are these crude and clunky". But I'm going to get them out and try them against the JETS. Maybe I'll love them and save a ton of money!

Fred

[Andy Giddings]

Bill, you might want to try cauls if you don't want to buy a load of clamps. Either make your own or buy a ready made set such as these http://www.bowclamp.com/. They work very well for long straight glue ups

[Dave Macy]

I went with the aluminum bar clamp - Dubuque (sp?). They're good enough. If I have a good clean seam then the clamps are good enough. If not, then the clamps won't solve my inability.

[James Gunning]

I bought mostly Bessey K bodies and a few Jorgensens years ago when I found them on sale. Got a lot of the Besseys at a ridiculous price (as I recall-more than 50% off) from Sears when they stopped carrying them. The local Home Depot manager hated me since the way Sears closed them out, it met his price match conditions. I cleaned out his rack a couple of times. The Besseys and Jorges work fine. They can be a bit fussy to lock up at times, but nothing fatal. I usually clean errant glue off the clamps as I go, and never had a problem with the clamps not locking up with glue on the bar. As to the staining problem, I often use wax paper to keep the wood and clamps apart. I always assumed I was looking for trouble by not doing something to keep them separated.

I almost found out the hard way that the Besseys and others of that type do lack enough clamping force in some glue-ups. I was building a large interior double door using multiple dowels to reinforce the stile-rail connections. When I tried to pull the joints together, the wood had likely begun to swell from the Titebond. I simply could not apply enough force with the parallel clamps to close the joints. Thank God I had a half dozen pipe clamps handy. I pulled the parallels off and easily closed the now swollen joints with the pipe clamps. Since that near disaster, I bought a few more pipe clamps, and keep them handy just in case. Never happened again, thankfully.

[Mark Bolton]

I bought mostly Bessey K bodies and a few Jorgensens years ago when I found them on sale. Got a lot of the Besseys at a ridiculous price (as I recall-more than 50% off) from Sears when they stopped carrying them. The local Home Depot manager hated me since the way Sears closed them out, it met his price match conditions. I cleaned out his rack a couple of times. The Besseys and Jorges work fine. They can be a bit fussy to lock up at times, but nothing fatal. I usually clean errant glue off the clamps as I go, and never had a problem with the clamps not locking up with glue on the bar. As to the staining problem, I often use wax paper to keep the wood and clamps apart. I always assumed I was looking for trouble by not doing something to keep them separated.

I almost found out the hard way that the Besseys and others of that type do lack enough clamping force in some glue-ups. I was building a large interior double door using multiple dowels to reinforce the stile-rail connections. When I tried to pull the joints together, the wood had likely begun to swell from the Titebond. I simply could not apply enough force with the parallel clamps to close the joints. Thank God I had a half dozen pipe clamps handy. I pulled the parallels off and easily closed the now swollen joints with the pipe clamps. Since that near disaster, I bought a few more pipe clamps, and keep them handy just in case. Never happened again, thankfully.

That's because parallels exert about 1/3 the clamping force of a decent pipe clamp. Agreed that in many applications (hobby or not) that force may not be absolutely necessary (even though it would still be better than less). But the avantages of modern glues likely give many a false sense of security with low clamping pressures. It's a given in a production shop environment you may be doing as.you were and pulling several tight fitting joints together in a single clamp-up. But getting any joint knitted tightly together is always going to be stronger than the alternative. A small table top glue up with two impecably jointed seams is one thing. Drawing together several panels or a 40" wide top with 5 joints.. a parallel ain't gonna cut it.

[James Gunning]

Mark,

For the most part I agree. The door was one of the larger glue-ups I've done, and there was something like a total of 18-20 dowels in both ends of three stiles to pull together. I'm a hobby woodworker and up to that time I had never encountered a joint I couldn't pull together with the parallels. I got too ambitious trying to assemble the entire door at one time. I think I spent too long getting everything glued and coming together. The real thing that made the difference was the screw thread and crank handle that the pipe clamps have. I don't see how the parallels could utilize the same device and still work like they do. The smooth handles on the older Besseys don't help. The newer versions of parallels look like they can exert more turning force with the newer handles. I've always felt like so many things we use that it comes down to "horse for courses". When you need a lot of clamp pressure, look for the pipe clamps. However they aren't as useful when using the clamps to help square up a cabinet door or something else that needs some help to remain square. The bulk of the time, I reach for the parallels, but I keep the pipe clamps handy, just in case......

[andy bessette]

Those smooth handles on Bessey's and Pony's can be improved by simply disc-sanding a large flat which tapers from widest at the outboard end to nothing near the screw.

[Edwin Santos]

Those smooth handles on Bessey's and Pony's can be improved by simply disc-sanding a large flat which tapers from widest at the outboard end to nothing near the screw.

I too hate the smooth handles, not only on the older K bodys but also the older Jorgensen F clamps with the wood handle. I've used grip tape on them the kind they make for guns, and also sprayed Plasti-Dip to create a rubberized coating, and both of these ideas will help. The Plasti-Dip is my favorite and looks professional too. I remember a FWW tip where someone cut flutes in their clamp handles for grip, but this seems like a project unto itself.

[andy bessette]

It takes only seconds to lay a handle against a spinning sanding disc. The grip is improved many fold.

[Sean Tracey]

It takes only seconds to lay a handle against a spinning sanding disc. The grip is improved many fold.

Good idea. I may use it one day. The round wood handles are not good. Especially for my hands.

[Edwin Santos]

It takes only seconds to lay a handle against a spinning sanding disc. The grip is improved many fold.

When you do this do you make a single flat, or multiple facets?

[Cary Falk]

I have Jet, Irwin, new and old Bessy. The Jets are my favorite. The Irwins are my lease favorites because of the fine threads that take so long to tighten. I only use my pipe clamps when I need a really long clamp(50" +).

[andy bessette]

When you do this do you make a single flat, or multiple facets?

One large single flat is all it takes.

[Rich Konopka]

I have been using the Aluminum Dubuque Clamps and they are very good. I find them light and easy to set up. Mark over at the woodwhisperer just posted a video on youtube comparing the Bessey's to the Jets and he said they were pretty even though he favored the Jets because they have the trigger slide adjustment. FWIW, he is sponsored by Powermatic . Both Powermatic and Jet are owned by WMH.

[jack duren]

When I want a better grip on Bessey clamps or wood clamps I just put a few drops of water on my hands which improves a lot on tightening. Of course I already have this available as I'm cleaning off excessive glue anyway.

Not about to grind on my clamps. Too many option for a better grip..
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[Larry Edgerton]

Jack, I keep a pair or two of the stretchy gloves with the rubber on the palm/fingers handy for the same purpose. Works a little better than water. I use then for a lot of other things as well where my old hands just don't have the grip. One pair is always by the jointer, a really big help.