Expanding Face Frames

[Dan Gill]

Why is it that when I take two 2-inch stiles and join them with 22-inch rails, that I get a face frame that's 26 1/16 inches? I'm using pocket holes and screws, and there are no gaps. Everything measures right on the money, but I keep having to take frames apart and trim them. Is this like junk filling up an empty drawer when I'm not looking? :confused:

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Dan, a 32nd of an inch is pretty small and VERY hard to measure!! It could be as little as a 32nd on the rails and a 64th on each stile to create a 1/16th. That said, I have noticed the same thing the few times I have used face frames. The good thing is for me the 1/16th didn't matter so I left it.

[Stuart Johnson]

Dan, I think it is sort of like having more than one clock. You never know what time is really correct. In theory always using the same tape measure should give you the same measurement but where do you make your mark. Is it in the center of tape tick, the right or the left? What about the next mark. I recently took a door making class at Woodcraft and had a real awakening regarding the amount of pressure being used to hold down a piece on both the table saw and router table. When making my cabinet doors I used my SmartMiter to make all of the cuts. There was a very slight difference in length when I slide the piece up to the stop and when I pushed it up. I used pocket screws on the face frames and do have a slight difference but not enough to worry about. I figure they are wood and will move some in any event. Stuart

[Byron Trantham]

Dan, I usually use my SCMS and a stop block to cut face frame elements. I have experienced the same problem you describe. I cut the first stile, check it and make any adjustments to the stop block that may be necessary. Same thing with the rails. I cut the first one and clamp a pair of the stiles in place and THEN measure the total width. Again, I make adjustments with the stop block if necessary. All the similar (rails or stiles) pieces are exactly the same length.

[Steve Clardy]

Mine are always a tad longer also. I like it that way. I can flush trim right to the plywood sides.

[jack duren]

personally i like things to be exact no matter what. but if one thing is a 32nd more and something else is a 32nd less well theres a big problem. for 32nd's we allways used the term "shy" and "full".

personally i try to use mechanical pencils for marking and saw stops for multiple cutting. if i want a face frame 30" in total length, i want it 30" after its assembled.on cabinets were its finished to finish ill make the dados a 1/4 "full" . this allows me to tap out or in to flush with the face frame.....jack

[Kurt Aebi]

1/32" is 0.0312" or 31 "Thousandths" of an inch and if you are working with sheet metal, it is not the least bit uncommon to have a 20 "Thousandths" tolerance and ±20 Thousandths would be a variance of up to 40 Thousandths or even more than you are seeing here, another normal tolerance is ±10 Thousandths or a total variance of up to 20 Thousandths. So I am with Steve and that will enable you to rout or even sand the final door (frame) to the exact size with ease.

I guess, what I am saying is that 1/32" ain't no big deal and you can easily overcome it with a little hand-finish work. Basically if you are joining 2 pieces and only get a variance of 1/32" (0.0312") you are actually achieving a tolerance of ±1/64" for each piece - not too shabby in my book!!