Which MicroJIG Grr-Ripper Package?

[Steve Mathews]

After reading some reviews of the Grr-Ripper here I decided to purchase one. They come in a variety of packages, the most complete apparently is their Model GR-522. Which one is recommended for a beginning woodworker? I don't want to get more than what may actually be used. Also, does anyone know where or when a promotion is offered?

[Rick Moyer]

Not sure what model mine is but it was purchased very early on so it's likely a basic model. It does have the balance support (which is handy) and also the surface plate (which I almost never use). I really like the Grr-Ripper. I would suggest the basic model. I liked it so much that I eventually purchased two Grr-rip blocks which are also very useful and great for a variety of uses.

[Adam Herman]

I somewhat recently bought the model 200 and am very happy with the purchase. It really does work as well as advertised. I don't see the need for the handle bridge or the deflector thing. you can move the handle side to side without the bridge. I would pick up the 1/8 thin stock if you will be cutting a lot of small/thin stuff though.

[David Kumm]

Periodically they do a two for one sale. I don't have the patience to readjust them for a quick cut so over the years I've accumulated about 4 for the saw and there is always one that works. I think for me they are more safe than an overhead guard- blasphemy I know. They keep your hand way above the blade which is only exposed about 1/2" above the stock. I run old saws with 16-18" blades and am a huge believer. Dave

[Nick Decker]

I use mine just about every time I use my saw, but most of what I'm doing is small, like boxes. I, too, know it's blasphemy, but I never use the blade guard, just the riving knife.

[glenn bradley]

For the small price difference I would get the GR-200. I don't always use the large shoe but, it is great for small stock.

353273

I use the adjustable spacer quite a bit. An 1/8" leg comes in handy too.

353274

They are not my only push tool but, they get used the most.

353275

[Rich Riddle]

I also have the GR-200 and recommend it. You might find one for less at an auction site or a return on Amazon.

[David Powell]

I recently purchased the GR-562 (the double pack) and would never go back using traditional push sticks. As Nick said, I also just use the riving knife and believe it is actually safer. As for price, there are occasionally specials on some of the various woodworking tool sites.

[ken carroll]

Periodically they do a two for one sale. I don't have the patience to readjust them for a quick cut so over the years I've accumulated about 4 for the saw and there is always one that works. I think for me they are more safe than an overhead guard- blasphemy I know. They keep your hand way above the blade which is only exposed about 1/2" above the stock. I run old saws with 16-18" blades and am a huge believer. Dave

Dave,

Do your old saws not have hot dog sensing technology? If not then you're a mad man for using them, it's not safe! The government should step in and confiscate them all!

[Steve Mathews]

Dave,

Do your old saws not have hot dog sensing technology? If not then you're a mad man for using them, it's not safe! The government should step in and confiscate them all!
You're kidding, right?

[Ben Rivel]

I own two of the GR-200's in all black and love 'em! Start with one, add another later.

[Mike Manning]

You're kidding, right?

I thought he was but what do I know. :-\

[David Kumm]

They would have to pry them out of my remaining fingers. Dave

[david mcintyre]

they would have to pry them out of my remaining fingers. Dave
rofl!!!




.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Steve, the Grr-ripper requires that you remove the guard from the saw blade, unless I'm mistaken.

That should be enough to convince you to not buy one.

As you're probably aware, a blade guard and riving knife, or blade guard and splitter are the most effective primary protection systems for avoiding blade contact and kick back.

In an industrial setting, the Grr-Ripper wouldn't be allowed because the blade guard is removed. If I tried that I would receive a written warning, some training, and if repeated an opportunity for employment elsewhere.

There are much safer methods of stock control such as push blocks, sticks, power feeders etc. Another key safety issue is the use of a 3 function rip fence, which can be short for ripping solid wood, long for sheet goods or low for narrow strips or bevel cuts.

I recently installed an overarm guard on my saw, now I have a guard that can even be used for non through cuts such as rebates, grooves and dadoes.......Regards, Rod.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?251067-Installing-an-overarm-guard-on-a-Table-Saw

[Bill Sutherland]

I have rhe Gripper and like it but after reading about the Jessem Stock Guides I'm wondering if that might have been a better investment.

[Earl McLain]

I probably have the equivalent of 3 GR-200's. Seems to be a sort of love-hate relationship on this product, so when I got the itch to try one...I waited until somebody did a "shop cleaning" and got a pair. Liked it, so several months later picked up the 3rd one for very little money. Have at least 3 of the 1/8" legs which are really nice to have. Haven't tried the connector deflector--so no comment there.

I like mine, but use the guard when I can. While they don't get discounted often, they do come up used from time to time.

earl

[Ben Rivel]

I have rhe Gripper and like it but after reading about the Jessem Stock Guides I'm wondering if that might have been a better investment.
The Jessem ClearCut Stock Guides are awesome, I have them on my SawStop PCS, but you cant use them when ripping thin materials. Thats when the GRR-Rippers come out.

[Ben Rivel]

Hi Steve, the Grr-ripper requires that you remove the guard from the saw blade, unless I'm mistaken.

You can leave the riving knife in on a SawStop PCS (and Im sure other saws depending on how the riving knife is designed) and still use the GRR-Ripper. But yes, the over-blade dust/guard does have to be removed.

[Bill Sutherland]

Seems like the Gripper and the Jessem Stock Guides might be the best of both worlds.

[Steve Mathews]

Hi Steve, the Grr-ripper requires that you remove the guard from the saw blade, unless I'm mistaken.

That should be enough to convince you to not buy one.

As you're probably aware, a blade guard and riving knife, or blade guard and splitter are the most effective primary protection systems for avoiding blade contact and kick back.

In an industrial setting, the Grr-Ripper wouldn't be allowed because the blade guard is removed. If I tried that I would receive a written warning, some training, and if repeated an opportunity for employment elsewhere.

There are much safer methods of stock control such as push blocks, sticks, power feeders etc. Another key safety issue is the use of a 3 function rip fence, which can be short for ripping solid wood, long for sheet goods or low for narrow strips or bevel cuts.

I recently installed an overarm guard on my saw, now I have a guard that can even be used for non through cuts such as rebates, grooves and dadoes.......Regards, Rod.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?251067-Installing-an-overarm-guard-on-a-Table-Saw

Rod - Thanks for your comments. I'm fairly new to woodworking and have as of late spent a lot of time on safety issues not only with the table saw but other power tools. I'm receptive to any improvements that improve the process. With respect to removing the blade guard from your industrial setting do you think it has just as much to do with legal liability to the company as a safety concern? In other words, if the company sanctioned the removal of any safety device or replaced it with something else wouldn't it increase its liability in the event of an accident and wouldn't that be more of a concern than the welfare of its employees? I'm imagining that if an accident did take place the company would feel more secure offsetting their liability and transferring it to the equipment manufacturer, perhaps more difficult if the equipment was altered. I think this thinking also plays a part in school systems replacing their old table saws with SawStops. Not doing so would've put them in a more precarious legal situation if a student was injured. With regard to accessories like the Grr-Ripper, is it possible that some of its criticisms are based more on this displaced legal responsibility than the effectiveness of the device itself?

[David Kumm]

I think you will find that there are lots of ways to get to the same place and you will develop what works for you. I have overhead guards on my saws but every once in a while I find them in the way and then I tend to focus too much on the guard and not enough on the blade. Particularly when ripping a piece that is shorter than the diameter of the blade. I don't like trying to use a stick and pushing the piece all the way beyond the blade and still keep the stick under the guard, especially since the offcut is still sitting right next to the spinning blade and is light enough to perhaps catch and throw. That is where I like the Grripper. I'd rather control both pieces and push them out of the way. You want to place yourself so your arm isn't over the blade as I worry more about that exposure than my hand which is way above and out of the way. I would also argue that one of my best safety devices on a saw is a knee kick kill switch. My Robinson has one that also applies a brake and that is a real comfort when a cut seems to not go right. Hunting for the off can be dangerous too. Dave

[ken carroll]

You're kidding, right?

Wow, seriously? :rolleyes:

[Rod Sheridan]

Rod - Thanks for your comments. I'm fairly new to woodworking and have as of late spent a lot of time on safety issues not only with the table saw but other power tools. I'm receptive to any improvements that improve the process. With respect to removing the blade guard from your industrial setting do you think it has just as much to do with legal liability to the company as a safety concern? In other words, if the company sanctioned the removal of any safety device or replaced it with something else wouldn't it increase its liability in the event of an accident and wouldn't that be more of a concern than the welfare of its employees? I'm imagining that if an accident did take place the company would feel more secure offsetting their liability and transferring it to the equipment manufacturer, perhaps more difficult if the equipment was altered. I think this thinking also plays a part in school systems replacing their old table saws with SawStops. Not doing so would've put them in a more precarious legal situation if a student was injured. With regard to accessories like the Grr-Ripper, is it possible that some of its criticisms are based more on this displaced legal responsibility than the effectiveness of the device itself?

Hi Steve, there are 3 possible items a blade guard can address

1) Dust collection, without an over the blade collection method, a large portion of the dust will be in the air. The over blade collection can capture this.

2) Kickback, this occurs when the work piece contacts the back, or top of the blade. A riving knife prevents rear contact, a splitter is almost as effective. The blade "crown" guard covers the top of the blade and prevents wood from contacting the top of the blade.

3) Blade contact injuries, the blade guard prevents almost all of these injuries, safe work practices such as push sticks, feeders etc. prevent the remainder.

SawStop technology only addresses item #3, I'm all in favour of the technology, it's the only significant improvement in North American saws since the guard and splitter some 80 years ago, however it's no substitute for a guard and riving knife, which is why a SawStop saw has them factory supplied.

It's not just the liability issue, it's the safety of the worker. Workers are expensive to train, a company has a lot of money invested in employees and can't afford to have them off work because of something they could have prevented through safety practices. Liability also is an issue, however don't discount the productivity costs. Of course all reasonable employers don't want their employees injured for moral/ethical reasons as well.

The Grr-Ripper is an effective push block, however if you've removed your guard or splitter to use, it's an unsafe approach..........Period.


My Father-in-Law was lucky enough to obtain a cabinet makers apprenticeship in England during the last gasps of the traditional apprenticeships. He was fortunate to have been hired by a large prestigious English firm, and to have benefitted from the education, training and experience.

When he moved to Canada to be a shop manager for a company, in his first week at work he was astounded to see "professional" wood workers using a table saw with a dado blade and no guard to make rebates. That was stopped immediately, and the shaper with a stock feeder was employed because the shaper is built for, and guarded for edge treatments of material.

A competent worker always uses the appropriate machine for the task, evaluating performance and safety for every operation.

regards, Rod.

[Mark W Pugh]

The Jessem ClearCut Stock Guides are awesome, I have them on my SawStop PCS, but you cant use them when ripping thin materials. Thats when the GRR-Rippers come out.

This sums it all up ^^^^^^^.

I don't have the Jessem product, but I do have Board Buddy's, or whatever they are called. I can not use them on things much less than about 5-6". The Grr-Rippers come out and are perfectly safe. IMHO. I would say that those that negatively critique them, probably haven't used them. I could be wrong, I'm just saying.

Just like everything else, make sure they are set up correctly before pushing wood through. Yes, I have shaved off part off a hold down because I rushed. This did not create a dangerous situation.

Oh, I bought the two pack when they had a special. You need two with long boards.

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

Wow, seriously? :rolleyes:

No, kiddingly serious? :D