Doug Hobkirk
02-04-2017, 7:21 PM
Earlier today I assembled a contractor saw with mobile base. I did this for a workshop in a non-profit - the shop is about 500 sq. ft. and has maybe 15-10 different workers interspersed through the week. Safety is a big issue - ironically, I was the strongest advocate, and I personally am not very focused on safety. It took about 5 hours, and I had help on the mobile base and hoisting the TS body onto the base. Big, heavy, awkward - getting the 4 bolts into the 4 corners to attach to the base required contortions. But that all seems normal.
They did not get the cast iron wings. But did get an extra stop cartridge. The pallet and boxes were all perfect, no damage, nothing bent or dented.
Specs: the motor is 1.75 HP induction, weight with mobile base = 285#, top including wings = 44" x 27" (each wing adds 12", so the iron table = 20" wide ?)
I was very impressed by:
the overall quality, ESPECIALLY the motor
the packaging, including the hardware. Each nut/bolt/washer could be accessed through perforated cardboard, and each part was labeled with a number that coordinated with the instructions. Use :"3 #14" is easier than "3 8 mm shouldered bolts".
Instructions (overdone, actually)
I never realized that the fence on a TS could go on either side. Seemed to dial in quite easily.
I used a 24 x 36 square to check the fence - seemed right on.
I was not impressed by (and wonder if I am missing something):
the R & L wings seem flimsy and are difficult to level with the iron saw top. I used a 4' level from the shop (so pretty rough) and adjusted the bolts on the front fence (aluminum with 7 embedded square head bolts) and the 2 back pieces on angle steel stock (3 bolts each). I had to use a big clamp to apply tension upward on the end of each wing to get it pretty level and then cinch the 3 bolts on each. Is there some trick to do it better?
I will bring in my so-so straight edge and excellent levels for round # 2.
the 2 fixed wheels on the mobile base force me to plan ahead before moving it, because the non-swivel wheels don't allow any sideways movement whatsoever - seems like 4 swivels would be vastly, vastly better, but I will examine it more carefully. And I know we won't move the saw often, but it is sold as a "contractor's" saw, and it seems like it'd be tough on a job site.
I enjoyed building the saw. I never buy new tools for myself, so it was quite a joy to see how something like this went together.
Any general advice welcomed. Thanks!
PS My TS is a Ryobi 3000 (?) slider model from years ago with the motor built into the mechanism. When the motor goes, the saw is gone. I think the SawStop motor probably weighs more than my entire TS. If I decide to cut a bunch of maple for cutting boards, I will be doing it at the HGRM workshop.
They did not get the cast iron wings. But did get an extra stop cartridge. The pallet and boxes were all perfect, no damage, nothing bent or dented.
Specs: the motor is 1.75 HP induction, weight with mobile base = 285#, top including wings = 44" x 27" (each wing adds 12", so the iron table = 20" wide ?)
I was very impressed by:
the overall quality, ESPECIALLY the motor
the packaging, including the hardware. Each nut/bolt/washer could be accessed through perforated cardboard, and each part was labeled with a number that coordinated with the instructions. Use :"3 #14" is easier than "3 8 mm shouldered bolts".
Instructions (overdone, actually)
I never realized that the fence on a TS could go on either side. Seemed to dial in quite easily.
I used a 24 x 36 square to check the fence - seemed right on.
I was not impressed by (and wonder if I am missing something):
the R & L wings seem flimsy and are difficult to level with the iron saw top. I used a 4' level from the shop (so pretty rough) and adjusted the bolts on the front fence (aluminum with 7 embedded square head bolts) and the 2 back pieces on angle steel stock (3 bolts each). I had to use a big clamp to apply tension upward on the end of each wing to get it pretty level and then cinch the 3 bolts on each. Is there some trick to do it better?
I will bring in my so-so straight edge and excellent levels for round # 2.
the 2 fixed wheels on the mobile base force me to plan ahead before moving it, because the non-swivel wheels don't allow any sideways movement whatsoever - seems like 4 swivels would be vastly, vastly better, but I will examine it more carefully. And I know we won't move the saw often, but it is sold as a "contractor's" saw, and it seems like it'd be tough on a job site.
I enjoyed building the saw. I never buy new tools for myself, so it was quite a joy to see how something like this went together.
Any general advice welcomed. Thanks!
PS My TS is a Ryobi 3000 (?) slider model from years ago with the motor built into the mechanism. When the motor goes, the saw is gone. I think the SawStop motor probably weighs more than my entire TS. If I decide to cut a bunch of maple for cutting boards, I will be doing it at the HGRM workshop.