Reality check before diving into a workbench build

[Ian Guy]

I am brand new here and about to embark on a bench build. I have been reading and studying everything (Chris Schwarz, woodworking blogs, forums, etc.) over the last several months and I am ready to do it. I am going with the Benchcrafted Classic Workbench with the classic leg vise with crisscross (it has already been ordered).

I have been going back and forth regarding which wood to use. I contemplated soft maple, but last week I went to the local Blue BORG and bought Douglas fir lumber. The lumber is in my shop acclimating. It was an impulse buy, because I am ready to get started, it fits my price point and it was convenient (or not, since I spent 2 hours combing through the stacks).

However, I am now having doubts about the wood choice. I have read tons on the issue but it is clear as mud. I want to know if anyone out there regrets going with a "softer" wood.

I originally planned to work mostly with hand tools during the build, but I may join the local woodworkers guild to have access to jointers and planers and such. In the future, I plan to definitely work with hard woods and make things that are needed around the house (kid's bed, coffee tables, etc.).

Reversing course and going with the maple would cost at least twice as much as the D Fir, that would make the leg vise hardware less affordable (meaning I would definitely go over my project allowance). I also had the idea to get enough maple to make a leg and the chop for the vise. It may clash some with the D Fir, but I figured it would provide extra strength for installing the vise--do anyone think this is necessary or would the D Fir be enough?

If anyone has any advice or knows of pitfalls to watch out for then I am all ears. If I go with the D Fir then I will give another 10 days to acclimate and then I'll get started and try to post some pics.

Thanks for any input.

[Kees Heiden]

My bench is also from some kind of fir. It's now I guess some 9 years old and peforms very well. No regrets.

Of course it is not heavy but standing against a wall and that's no problem

I made the leg of my legvise from ash. I think fir would need to be much thicker to resist the forces.

[David Eisenhauer]

Softer woods for a workbench are OK. I believe if you do a search of this forum, at least one or two other folks have written up about using Doug Fir for their workbench (seems like somewhat recently) and you could ask them if they regret it but I have not heard any regrets that I can remember. I used #2 SYP for my bench as it is commonly used here in my area for framing lumber. I also believe I have read a blog by CS where he takes a bench building class group to the Borg to pick up some Doug Fir for their bench builds that he will supervise, but it could have been some other softer framing lumber. The two issues I encountered with using framing lumber were the need to rip off the radius edges and not being able to use a table saw for ripping the 2x12's due the wood pinching the blade (after drying in my shop for 6 or 7 months).

[ken hatch]

Ian,

Wood selection is one of the things first time builders obsess over that in reality makes no never mind. Almost any wood will work. Pick wood that is cheap and available then remember the work bench mantra: Build it heavy, strong, simple, and fast, then go to work making things. After working on your first build for awhile you will find things that you would like to change or add. Once those reach some critical mass, it is time to build another bench, this time you will know enough about the way you work or want to work to build a bench that better fits your needs. That cycle may repeat several times before you build the "perfect" bench.

Just remember for most the bench is a shop fixture, a tool to be used, not furniture or a show piece and as such it is disposable.

In my shop I have three benches, two made with SYP, and the last made with Beech. The benches were made over a span of 40 some years with each bench getting simpler than the one preceding it. I've found, for the most part, must have "stuff" just gets in the way of working. A face vise is very useful, tail, wagon, and end vises not so much. Most work holding can be done easier and quicker with holdfasts and battens.

Long answer but bottom line: Your DF will work with no problem (several years ago I built a DF bench for a friend and he loves it), for the Chop I would use something like Ash or Oak and remember to KISS :-). Of course as always with anything wood YMMV.

ken

[Kurt Cady]

Just build it!

All simplicity aside, I understand the over-analyzing. I did it too. It's going to be a lot of time and work and you want it done right so you dont have to do it again anytime soon. I Wound up going with 2x12 #2 SYP. Cost me about $100. No regrets. Yes it dents a bit sometimes, but I have no regrets. Those dings and dents mean it's being used for what it was built for.

[Karl Andersson]

My doug fir bench was made with Home Depot 4x4's (our local stores didn't carry 2x DF lumber at the time). I have used the bench for several years, and I think it's great. It is lighter than others, but that hasn't been a problem for me (there was a discussion here on SMC about lighter benches a month or two ago). One thing to watch for with DF is that you get the tightest rings possible (20 per inch rather than 5) so there is less pithy wood to deal with, and also orient the rigs as vertical as possible so the edges of the hard rings provide impact resistance. That my not be possible if you've got 2x lumber.

My opinion is that if you think you'll be upset by dings, gouges, and bruises in your benchtop, then switch to a hardwood; if you want it useful, inexpensive, and manageable weight-wise - and don't mind using bench hooks, chopping blocks, and other bench accessories to spare your top- then go with the DF.

You've got the wood, maybe just build the best you can now and start using it. Even if you're very rough with it, you probably won't completely wear it out for at least a few years, at which point you'll have more experienced opinions of your own regarding what works best for you.
have fun,
Karl

[Chris Hachet]

It should be absolutely fine. The Bench crafted classic leg vise is wonderful, you will not regret that part at all. Use whatever tools you feel like using to build it, and then enjoy using it to make things.

I have the similar bench with the bench crafted classic vise in Maple/Beech and it works very well.

[Chris Hachet]

Also, my other bench has a Doug fir base, it has been solid as a rock for about 7 or 8 years....

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I think you are getting good advice from Ken. Benches have a lot of personal preference built into them, and it is hard to know what you actually prefer without working on one for a while.

My present bench was not perfectly stable, because the floor is a "little irregular" (either that or every part of the base was not perfectly square, but of course since I built it I think the latter explanation is highly unlikely). Truth is that it is hard to build a bench without a bench. Simple solution for me was a couple of strategically placed shims. Really amazing how much they stabilized it.

Weight is important of course, but at a certain point it is overkill, and as you work you will get better at planing, and need less in terms of resistance. If you watch that video Mike Seimsen has on youtube with his Nicholson Bench, you will see what I mean.

[Robert Hazelwood]

My bench is Doug fir and I have no complaints so far. The top will dent and look ratty quicker than a harder wood, if that's important to you.

My bench is a roubo, 6.5' long 26" wide, 3" thick top. It has plenty of weight; I haven't seen a reason yet to build it any heavier. It's still just light enough that I can move it around the shop (pivoting one side at a time) if I need to.

My advice would be to be picky about the DF boards you buy. If you are patient you can find pretty nice 2x12s with few or no knots and reasonably tight growth rings. Boards like these are a pleasure to work and look attractive, but the typical board you'll find will have wide growth rings and many knots. These are not much fun to dimension by hand.

[Mark Gibney]

I used kiln dried doug fir 2x4s from Lowes for my bench top and I like it a lot. I spent a chunk of time in Lowes selecting sticks with tight grain and no knots on at least one edge.

However - even though most of the 2x4s were in my shop for several months in a dry climate before the build, the top has shrunk a little in the 18 months since I built it. I could feel a slight ridge at each glue line and I just sanded it off.

I used beech on the long edges of the top because DF has a tendency to splinter, as you know, and I had a lot of beech. Color tones look good together too. I made the leg vise chop from beech, but of course a lot of different woods would do.

I also had a bunch of 4x6s for years at the back of the shop, old, dirty looking wood that made a base that cost only my time. And the bench is more than heavy enough.

[Marty Schlosser]

Look, this is your first bench... and if you're anything like the rest of us, it certainly won't be your last. Just as others have already said, don't sweat it; build it!

I would recommend, again as others already have, that you use hardwood for and vises' wooden components.

[Mark AJ Allen]

My whole bench is BORG 2x6 construction lumber, knots and all ... My only regret is that I used this BORG construction lumber wood on the FRONT section of my split top Roubo. This section takes the most abuse and needs to hold up to the stresses from workholding and clamping, dog holes, etc... the construction lumber doesn't really do that.

So my advice, go ahead and make the whole bench with the wood you have BUT the first 6 inches (of front section if you do a split top) from some kind of cheap hardwood (around here is Ash and maple). Also make any vice chops or faces with hardwood (another place I regret using construction lumber)

[Chris Hachet]

Look, this is your first bench... and if you're anything like the rest of us, it certainly won't be your last. Just as others have already said, don't sweat it; build it!

I would recommend, again as others already have, that you use hardwood for and vises' wooden components.


I will second vises built out of Hardwood.

[Chris Hachet]

I used kiln dried doug fir 2x4s from Lowes for my bench top and I like it a lot. I spent a chunk of time in Lowes selecting sticks with tight grain and no knots on at least one edge.

However - even though most of the 2x4s were in my shop for several months in a dry climate before the build, the top has shrunk a little in the 18 months since I built it. I could feel a slight ridge at each glue line and I just sanded it off.

I used beech on the long edges of the top because DF has a tendency to splinter, as you know, and I had a lot of beech. Color tones look good together too. I made the leg vise chop from beech, but of course a lot of different woods would do.

I also had a bunch of 4x6s for years at the back of the shop, old, dirty looking wood that made a base that cost only my time. And the bench is more than heavy enough.


This actually sounds like a wonderful bench. It does not need to be hard maple and sanded to 320 grit to be a good usable bench!

[Chris Hachet]

My whole bench is BORG 2x6 construction lumber, knots and all ... My only regret is that I used this BORG construction lumber wood on the FRONT section of my split top Roubo. This section takes the most abuse and needs to hold up to the stresses from workholding and clamping, dog holes, etc... the construction lumber doesn't really do that.

So my advice, go ahead and make the whole bench with the wood you have BUT the first 6 inches (of front section if you do a split top) from some kind of cheap hardwood (around here is Ash and maple). Also make any vice chops or faces with hardwood (another place I regret using construction lumber)This could work, or you could also make the bench a split top bench. If you get it built and find that you don't like the front being softwood, simply replace the front half of the top at a later time.

In the mean time, this would avoid paralysis by analysis.

[Roger Green]

Ian, Welcome to the Creek. I don't see where you are located. If you live near me (Vancouver, Washington- -just north of Portland, Oregon) I'd be happy to help you through this bench build. I've helped another local woodworker build a Douglas fir bench.
Roger Green

[Ian Guy]

Thanks to everybody for the replies. I appreciate the comments and advice. I am going to stay on the course I am currently on and proceed with my DF lumber and pick up some hardwood for vise leg and chop. I think this a good compromise. I am not overly concerned with dings and dents to the work surface--it is a bench after all so it will be used for work. I'll just take a hand plane to it every year or two to flatten/smooth it out. I just want a bench that I am not going to chase around the workshop when trying to plane and use hand tools. I want a proper place where I can become better at making things. It is a hobby for me and I guess if I get five or ten years down the road and want to upgrade to another bench then at least I'll have the experience and good vise hardware to take with me. I am in the Kansas City area, so maybe l'll run into some fellow KC'ers on this forum.

Thanks again, Ian.

[Ian Guy]

Mark, This is great information. I was thinking of going down this path, but I am happy to hear that it worked out for someone else and is a viable option before I get started with the sawing and planing.

Thanks,
Ian

[Prashun Patel]

In all of the bench builds I've read here, I can't once recall anyone regretting their choice of soft wood over hard. We obsess about this decision, but in the end, the dimensions, work holding, and mass choices are what people seem to appreciate or regret.

As long as you make sure the lumber is thick enough and stabilized enough to stay stout, flat, and true, you will (I suspect) be happy with whatever wood you choose.

(As others have posted) one of my benches had a 2x4 apron which did tend to get beaten up - mostly by my young son and his affinity for my rasps. Just this year, I solved that by rotating that edge to the rear, and adding a new ash board to the front of the new apron.

[Reinis Kanders]

You could just laminate a 3" wide front from some harder wood for the dog holes. Also watch out for sap coming out of the fir, mine was bleeding for a while where sun was shining on it. If you can then laminate in a way that it is all rift sawn, it looks very good if grain is tight.

[Pat Barry]

The biggest issue regarding Doug Fir is that the stuff from BORG is full of knots. If you can work around those you will be fine. Keep the knots off the top surface as much as possible. Knots become a pita when you need to level the top lamination and knots always stand a good chance of becoming unintended holes when the lumber dries fully.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

(As others have posted) one of my benches had a 2x4 apron which did tend to get beaten up - mostly by my young son and his affinity for my rasps. Just this year, I solved that by rotating that edge to the rear, and adding a new ash board to the front of the new apron.

Mine seem to have an affinity for hammers, screwdrivers, and my hand drills. The result is the same though.

[Jim Koepke]

(As others have posted) one of my benches had a 2x4 apron which did tend to get beaten up - mostly by my young son and his affinity for my rasps. Just this year, I solved that by rotating that edge to the rear, and adding a new ash board to the front of the new apron.

Wouldn't have been easier to just put the rasps on a higher shelf?

Rasps can cut into ash with ease.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Ian, my bench is BORG pine as well. As already suggested above, I did use hard maple for the leg vise, as well as a 3/4" wide piece as the outside face board for the front and back, and the front of the front legs. I also used hard maple for the deadman runner on the bottom stretcher.

It's been in use for a little over a year and I don't have any regrets on using pine. By the way, when you do the big oops like I did and run a drill down into the top (several, as a matter of fact) you can then relax and view it for what it really is...just a workbench.

[John Crawford]

I built a generic Schwarzbench out of DF, and don't regret the wood choice. It is plenty stable, and is holding up fine after a couple years. Maybe I would have gone with SYP had it been available in my area, but it isn't. The surface does dent, but I see it as a shop fixture, and I don't worry when I accidentally nick it with a tool.

DF isn't a pleasure to work with; the construction grade stuff of course shrinks more than you expect, and I lost a certain amount of wood to twists and cracks as it was drying. Still, no problems with the finished bench.

[Stewie Simpson]

Racking or movement within a freestanding work bench can be resolved in 2 ways. Diagonal cross bracing, or a sheet of 1/4"plywood that's affixed to the long side of the bench at the back, below apron height, covering both upper and lower levels of horizontal stretchers and including the support legs. Flat head nails hammered in at 6 inch centres should be more than adequate. Its not a bad idea to include bracing 1 short end of the bench. Not always pretty to look at, but we discussing a work bench, not an elaborate piece of furniture.

[Mark Fisher]

That is what I did. The only thing I was disappointed with was the top. The grain on the BORG boards go every which way (and I was very careful in selection) and I ended up with a bit of tear out on the top. Is that a big deal? Not really, but it was annoying.

[Matthew Hills]

My bench is made with reclaimed doug fir.
I used a toothed blade in a low-angle jack to tame some of the issues from knots and reversing grain.
I left the top with the light texture from this blade; I did not smooth the top.

You would give up the visual refinement of a hardwood bench.
But, works well with holdfasts, and has been very stable.

Matt

[Chris Hachet]

Racking or movement within a freestanding work bench can be resolved in 2 ways. Diagonal cross bracing, or a sheet of 1/4"plywood that's affixed to the long side of the bench at the back, below apron height, covering both upper and lower levels of horizontal stretchers and including the support legs. Flat head nails hammered in at 6 inch centres should be more than adequate. Its not a bad idea to include bracing 1 short end of the bench. Not always pretty to look at, but we discussing a work bench, not an elaborate piece of furniture.Exactly, as I have said before, a lot of beautiful work gets built on ugly work benches.

[michael langman]

Ian, I am building amy first work bench starting in the next day or two. After researching and reading for the last few years on benches, I have decided to go simple and as inexpensive as possible.
I went through the 2x4 pile of douglas fir, at the home depot and my wood has been acclimating for the past 6 months or so in my basement.
Mike Siemson's video on a work bench withput a vice was the most enlightening video I watched.
The use of a Crochet, and well spaced holes in the bench is a very good way to work with wood. Leaving the wood tension free while straightening, flattening, squaring up makes much sense to me.
I am making a moxon vise using 3/4" pipe clamps to accompany my bench also.
Best of luck with your project.

[Ian Guy]

Michael-- I considered going without a vise too and just doing a crochet, but I went ahead and ordered the hardware for the benchcrafted leg vise. I won't add a tail vise though and will just use planing stops and holdfasts on the top.
I have had my wood acclimating in my shop for almost 2 weeks. It will probably go another month before I am ready to start building. Good luck with your bench build.

[Reinis Kanders]

In my somewhat limited experience Home depot doug-fir will move for probably a year after buying it and it will also have sap coming out of it so you have to take care while laminating it. That said, I have had good luck at HD finding excellent very tight grained (15-20 rings/inch) center cut 2x12s.

[Jeff Bartley]

Ian,

I'll add this advise: if you're getting the benchcrafted leg vise, make sure you get the criss-cross too!

When I built my bench years ago benchcrafted was just out of the gate and I installed their wagon vise. I only had funds for one high dollar vise so for the leg vise I used an inexpensive bench screw and built my own leg vise.

Never for a second have I regretted spending the dough on that wagon vise! What I regret now: my leg/stretcher bolt interferes with the criss-cross assemblage making a retrofit really diffficult.

A month or two back I decided it was time to upgrade my leg vise so I started looking at the leg vises benchcrafted offers now and once I pulled up the drawings for the criss-cross I realized it would be difficult to install. I plan to revisit this option to figure out a way to make it work.

Yes, I'm a huge supporter of benchcrafted!

My point: Doug fit, SYP, maple, oak, ash......all will make a fantastic bench but put nice hardware on your bench and do it right away because retrofitting is much harder than building it into the bench from the start.

[Chris Hachet]

Ian,

I'll add this advise: if you're getting the benchcrafted leg vise, make sure you get the criss-cross too!

When I built my bench years ago benchcrafted was just out of the gate and I installed their wagon vise. I only had funds for one high dollar vise so for the leg vise I used an inexpensive bench screw and built my own leg vise.

Never for a second have I regretted spending the dough on that wagon vise! What I regret now: my leg/stretcher bolt interferes with the criss-cross assemblage making a retrofit really diffficult.

A month or two back I decided it was time to upgrade my leg vise so I started looking at the leg vises benchcrafted offers now and once I pulled up the drawings for the criss-cross I realized it would be difficult to install. I plan to revisit this option to figure out a way to make it work.

Yes, I'm a huge supporter of benchcrafted!

My point: Doug fit, SYP, maple, oak, ash......all will make a fantastic bench but put nice hardware on your bench and do it right away because retrofitting is much harder than building it into the bench from the start.Bench crafted stuff is quite frankly amazing.

[michael langman]

Yes it is quite amazing.

People from all over the world order their products, and have nothing but good things to say about them.

Ian, you will surely be pleased with their leg vise, I'm sure.