Pancake compressor issue

[Robert Gleason]

I am having an issue with my Porter Cable pancake compressor. It runs fine but will not hold pressure. It leaks air constantly. I'm sure it's a cheap fix but I don't know much about compressors. Any input on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

[Charles Lent]

First you have to tell us where the leak is. Then we can probably help fix it. If it just runs, but won't build up any pressure and you can't find a place where air is leaking out, the compressor reed valves are likely bad.

Charley

[Marc Timmy Smith]

If it runs fine and builds up pressure, it's leaking from the fittings or couplers. This can easily be fixed by just tightening or using threat sealing tape(PTFE tape)

[Gregory King]

Check the hose from the motor to tank. Probably got a small crack there as it breaks down over time. It's where mine started.

[Larry Alles]

Check the U-Tube video for Porter Cable 6 gallon air compressor. Some good tips there. I had the same problem and it solved them.
Good luck

[John K Jordan]

My favorite leak finder is bubble solution. I bought a few gallons on a Walmart clearance. When I get tired of hunting for a leak I just stop and blow bubbles for a while and life is good again.

JKJ

[Charles Lent]

A cup of water with a squirt of dish detergent in it and mixed together makes a great leak finder. Use a glue brush or similar small brush and apply it liberally to each place that might be leaking. Very small leaks will make a blob of foam bubbles in a couple of minutes, bigger leaks will make bubbles as soon as you apply the water/detergent mix. Best of all, it's biodegradable.

Charley

[Rick Whitehead]

I had a Porter-Cable pancake compressor that was doing the same thing. The problem turned out to be a plastic fitting around the tube going from the compressor head to the tank. The fitting had deteriorated and was not sealing the tube to the head.
The part was very inexpensive (except for shipping!) and it was an easy fix.
Rick

[Jim Breen (NY)]

I've replaced the check valve on mine twice., the last time just this past week. It's the brass fitting on the tank, connected to the hose to the compressor motor. When it fails, you hear a constant hiss from the top of the unit after ti fills. It's about $20 on Amazon. For the CP2600 compressor, the part is labeled Craftsman D27022 Check Valve.

[Mike Manning]

I've replaced the check valve on mine twice., the last time just this past week. It's the brass fitting on the tank, connected to the hose to the compressor motor. When it fails, you hear a constant hiss from the top of the unit after ti fills. It's about $20 on Amazon. For the CP2600 compressor, the part is labeled Craftsman D27022 Check Valve.

What was happening that caused you to be sure it was the check valve that needed to be replaced. I noticed today that my PC CP2600 was leaking. Bad leak that I could hear even with the radio playing in my shop. This week I'll use some soapy water as suggested in the other active compressor thread here to see exactly what's leaking but it seemed to be around the regulator.

[Jim Breen (NY)]

Mine would charge up, then when the motor shut-off I could hear air leaking out.
The first time this happened a few years ago, I took everything apart to find nothing obvious. Put it back together and heard the leak still there. A quick google and someone pointed out to replace the check valve.
I seem to get about 5-8 years out of each one.

If your's is in the regulator, check out this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5eWvRzEmuQ). Could this be the issue?

[Mike Manning]

Thanks for the reply and the video link Jim. Well, i have pressure build up when I turn my regulator clockwise so it doesn't appear that I have that problem. That's good to know though. My leak seems to be around the regulator and the outlet pressure gauge. I could put my fingers under the outlet pressure gauge and around the regulator and get a little bit of reduction on the air loss but I could not find a place where I could stop the leaking.

[Mike Manning]

I determined this morning that my leak in in the plastic regulator. I took it off and there are no visible issues with it.

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I can't see any hairline cracks. This is actually some pretty serious plastic on this regulator. Anyway, I did push lightly with my finger in the regulator around that center piece there (whatever it is) and there was a little bit of movement downwards (towards the front of the regulator where the 'Push Lock' is. It probably moved about a 1/16" with a little click sound. It appears I can buy an OEM from PC on Amazon for appx $43 or I can buy an after-market regulator made by IEE (Industrial Equipment Expert) for appx $28. I only paid $40 for it on CL. Obviously, that thing about getting what you pay for. Anyone bought one of these regulators by this manufacturer?

Any other thoughts on how to fix this?

Thanks!

Robert,
I apologize for highjacking your thread. When you return I'll turn it over to you.

[Charles Lent]

See those rubber rings? Replace them. Auto supply and forklift repair shops can match them up to the right choices from their stock. Industrial Supply houses like Grainger should have them too, for just a couple of bucks, if either one is leaking, replacing them should fix it. Use care not to scratch or cut the new ones as you install them. A very thin coating of oil on them should make them go in easier.

Charley

[Mike Manning]

See those rubber rings? Replace them. Auto supply and forklift repair shops can match them up to the right choices from their stock. Industrial Supply houses like Grainger should have them too, for just a couple of bucks, if either one is leaking, replacing them should fix it. Use care not to scratch or cut the new ones as you install them. A very thin coating of oil on them should make them go in easier.

Charley

Charley,
I only see one. You're talking about inside the metal part the regulator attaches and which should create a seal? Are there more?

By the way, that sure isn't much of a seal!

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Thanks, Mike

[Mike Manning]

Figured out where the other rubber seal was. When I went to check it out that nut was so loose I could have unscrewed it with my fingers. Ah-hah! Checked it out and put it back along with the other seal and pipe tape and tested the compressor. It's holding air once again without leaking. I'm still going to replace those seals.

This is my first compressor. I bought it a couple of months ago off CL for $40 with a 50' rubber hose. So not knowing what's normal behavior I'm wondering about something. After testing the compressor, I started to go through my usual process for draining the tank. First, I turn the regulator counter-clockwise heading to zero. Now when I have done before and this time as well, there is/has always been some air leaking there right around the regulator. If I stop and set the lock on the regulator after a second (two at the most) the air leak will stop. Is this normal?