Laser Etch and Paint-fill Glass Plaque

[Tim Bateson]

I don't come here with questions very often... any more. However, I'm drawing a blank on this project. Customer wants a plaque like attached here, but I'm not sure how to color fill to appear grayscale? Easy if I just inverse engrave and put a black backing, or attach a real photo behind, but that's not what they want.

My thought is a halftone image like we use to do for the newspaper. Instead of the dithering, use standard. Any other ideas, thoughts?

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[Glen Monaghan]

Seems like laser is wrong tool then, not an engraving job but rather a printing job... You have the Ricoh, and you can get coated glass or use GreenStar vinyl (you sublimate to its adhesive side and then bond it to the back of an untreated glass plate).

[Mike Null]

Tim
Paint the photo area black. Engrave and scrape off excess paint. Obviously, you paint the second surface. Engrave the text and color fill it.

There have been some examples posted in years past but I don't remember enough to do a search.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?90838-Now-this-might-not-look-great-but!!!

[Neville Stewart]

I'm with Mike. I did something similar on a white canvas. I painted it black and engraved the picture. It came out surprisingly well.

[Mike Null]

That may have been printed with one of those new fangled printers that are too expensive for me to consider.

[Ross Moshinsky]

Seems like laser is wrong tool then, not an engraving job but rather a printing job... You have the Ricoh, and you can get coated glass or use GreenStar vinyl (you sublimate to its adhesive side and then bond it to the back of an untreated glass plate).

This, except I'd just go ahead and direct print right on the glass. It's considered the industry standard at this point. Other option is just transparent vinyl "decal". Cut it the size of the entire panel so there are no seams. Another "industry standard".

[Tim Bateson]

This, except I'd just go ahead and direct print right on the glass. It's considered the industry standard at this point...".

Great, I'll tell the customer to wait until I can afford a large format Direct printer. I think Mike has had the best idea. Will test that tonight.

[Ross Moshinsky]

Great, I'll tell the customer to wait until I can afford a large format Direct printer. I think Mike has had the best idea. Will test that tonight.

Or you could simply call someone up that has one and sub the job out. It's not my fault this process isn't designed for engraving. Even 20 years ago this would have been done through a print type process.

[Mike Null]

That would probably be my solution as I have a nearby competitor who has a uv printer and will do my work. It's just a short margin.

I should add that I find it quite easy to turn away work involving photos.

[Tim Bateson]

That would probably be my solution as I have a nearby competitor who has a uv printer and will do my work.

Anyone in the Cincinnati area pm me.

[Scott Shepherd]

I agree with Glen and Ross. That's a 4-5 minute print job directly on the back of the glass with a UV printer. We've been printing a job for about 3 weeks straight now that is back printing on acrylic. It works very well. For glass, you might want to make sure they use adhesion promoter or use a machine with primer in one channel to make sure it sticks on the glass.

[Neville Stewart]

What about sublimation?

[Glen Monaghan]

Or you could just try the GreenStar I mentioned, sublimate and apply to the reverse side of the glass. What's the issue with that?

[Kev Williams]

If it were me and I wasn't about to lets someone print it on (ahem ;) ) --

I would mask the glass with transfer tape, get it on and down real smooth. Then create a 2-color bitmap, dithered or 'actual' halftone (which I don't care for myself, I like 'Stucki')...
Run at 300 x 300 dpi, and plan on making 2 or 3 passes. You want the transfer tape to burn as cleanly away as possible but keep the tiny pieces where they belong...

Then spray paint it with some flat black. Flat will look glossy on the other side anyway, and dries MUCH faster than gloss enamel...

After it's dried a couple of hours, soak the piece in warm soapy water for 15 minutes or so. the transfer tape should pretty much just fall off. What doesn't fall off, take some 0000 steel wool to it.

Observe the results-- any too-dark areas, hit with the steel wool. If needed, use the steel wool to 'fix' the shading.

If it turns out okay, run the job! :)

[Tim Bateson]

The piece is 24 x 18 - 1/2 inch tempered glass.

[Kev Williams]

Never engraved tempered glass, guess it would hold up to lasering?

As for testing, dollar store picture frames :)

[Scott Shepherd]

The piece is 24 x 18 - 1/2 inch tempered glass.

Most anyone with a flatbed UV printer can knock that out Tim. Should be many of them around you.

[Mike Null]

I just engraved 150 pieces of tempered glass yesterday and received 300 more for next week. No problems at all.