Dewalt Powershop Radial Arm Saws

[John Bradley]

Greetings folks!
I am a very new member to this group, and I am already impressed with the wealth of knowledge.
Pardon any missteps or hiccups on my part as I learn to use this system of posting.

I am very close to buying a Dewalk Powershop 925 RAS I found on Craigslist.
I have read prior posts/threads that generally have been very positive about the Dewalt RAS's from this era. The particular unit I am considering is in outstanding condition with one owner who has kept literally every piece of literature and accessory that came with the saw when new.

I am committed to getting a vintage (guess I am at an age where "vintage" is looking better and better!) saw, as the quality of the newer ones fell precipitously after the 80's.

Do any of you have any comments, advice, tips on this saw or others from that era of the late 50's to mid 60's?

I greatly appreciate your thoughts!!

John

[Chris Hachet]

In all honesty if I were looking at cutting wood and not wanting particular tools in a work shop, i would buy a track saw first and then branch out from there.

I love the look of vintage radial arm saws, and remember fondly the 1970's and 1980's when they were popular (I am 51). However, for my money, a track saw would be the ideal way to get a lot fo work done quickly and efficiently.

Especially considering the better dust collection of modern Track saws. My vote would be for a Festools aw if you could afford it, but I used another Creekers Dewalt last weekend and I was very, very impressed with that saw.

If you want particular info on that particular Dewalt, consider OWWM (old woodworking machines) website if it is an American made saw.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Chris

[John Bradley]

Chris:

Thanks so much for your speedy reply. Ironically, you and I are the same age!
I, too, have great memories of a next door neighbor who was a carpenter/cabinet maker and had his shop in his garage. When I was old enough to not be dangerous around tools (probably 10 or so), he would invite me into his shop to watch him work. He had a very old Craftsman RAS that was a total beast. I swear he did just about everything with that saw. I never forgot that or the care he gave his tools. After every job, the shop was totally cleaned (my job to earn a buck or two!), and every tool returned to its original spot. I don't think I ever saw anyone who worked so smoothly or efficiently as him!

Regarding the track saw.....my primary interest in the RAS was to use it for doing dados on carcase pieces for cabinet work. Now, I use a router, but the amount of set up time is getting troublesome. I like the idea of having a dedicated machine all ready to do that task as well as something accurate for mitered cuts. I have sampled some of the SCMS's that have gotten rave reviews in the woodworking magazines, but, dadoes are not an option, and I have so disappointed in overall quality.
I would like to have a track saw (when the budget will allow), and I will likely set that up in my sheet good storage area. I have seen Festool products, and they do seem impressive. Your point on dust collection is correct, but with some good sheet metal work and a cyclone collector, I should be ok.

Thanks so much for the input!

John


In all honesty if I were looking at cutting wood and not wanting particular tools in a work shop, i would buy a track saw first and then branch out from there.

I love the look of vintage radial arm saws, and remember fondly the 1970's and 1980's when they were popular (I am 51). However, for my money, a track saw would be the ideal way to get a lot fo work done quickly and efficiently.

Especially considering the better dust collection of modern Track saws. My vote would be for a Festools aw if you could afford it, but I used another Creekers Dewalt last weekend and I was very, very impressed with that saw.

If you want particular info on that particular Dewalt, consider OWWM (old woodworking machines) website if it is an American made saw.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Chris

[Ken Combs]

Dewalt saws of that era are very good. I have a dual branded version, Black and Decker/Dewalt. That era is not quite as good/heavy duty as the early ones but still a cut above most home shop saws.

Mine hold adjustment quite well, even when being moved around.

I'm in the minority I know, but still think a quality radial arm saw is one of the most versatile tools one can own. Mounted on a rolling table (mine has the factory metal cabinet) they take up no more room that a power miter or sliding miter. Add folding extensions on each side and it's really handy for cutting stock to length. And, for dado cuts or repetitive cutoffs they just can't be beat.

Much quieter than a power miter, induction motor vs universal with gear or belt reduction.

Where they don't excel is portability. Mine stays in the shop, my miter saw travels!

As for the 'danger' often mentioned, I know a lot of guys that have or have had one. I know of no one that has been injured using it. Personally, I've owned several, beginning around 1969. From an aluminum armed 9" Craftsman (not recommended!), to a 14", 300 lb monster. Not even a nick!

[Chris Hachet]

Chris:

Thanks so much for your speedy reply. Ironically, you and I are the same age!
I, too, have great memories of a next door neighbor who was a carpenter/cabinet maker and had his shop in his garage. When I was old enough to not be dangerous around tools (probably 10 or so), he would invite me into his shop to watch him work. He had a very old Craftsman RAS that was a total beast. I swear he did just about everything with that saw. I never forgot that or the care he gave his tools. After every job, the shop was totally cleaned (my job to earn a buck or two!), and every tool returned to its original spot. I don't think I ever saw anyone who worked so smoothly or efficiently as him!

Regarding the track saw.....my primary interest in the RAS was to use it for doing dados on carcase pieces for cabinet work. Now, I use a router, but the amount of set up time is getting troublesome. I like the idea of having a dedicated machine all ready to do that task as well as something accurate for mitered cuts. I have sampled some of the SCMS's that have gotten rave reviews in the woodworking magazines, but, dadoes are not an option, and I have so disappointed in overall quality.
I would like to have a track saw (when the budget will allow), and I will likely set that up in my sheet good storage area. I have seen Festool products, and they do seem impressive. Your point on dust collection is correct, but with some good sheet metal work and a cyclone collector, I should be ok.

Thanks so much for the input!

John I could really see this for use in Dado's like you are talking about. I kind of strongly prefer the router for that, but yeah, a Radial arm saw would work well.

As for the safety thing, I know of very few people who have been seriously injured woodworking.

Pics when you get her set up and running would be great.

[Cary Falk]

The rule is anything with the elevation crank on the column is good. The round arms being better. I have restored several saws in the past including a mbf and a GWI. I currently have a 7790 getting ready to go back together. The 925 is a little small for my taste but should be an accurate saw. Post pictures when you get it. Let me know if you have any questions about rebuilding. Make sure the carriage is tight and smooth the full length of the arm. If the motor runs then you are golden. Nothing too expensive can happen past that.

[John Bradley]

Folks:

Thank you for all the great input! It is exciting to think others still share the passion for tools made in a way that is just a memory for most. I am going to see the saw and test it out on Friday and will let you all know if it comes home with me. I will attach pics of it if it makes the homecoming.
I cannot help but get nostalgic to think of the old B and D electric drill my dad gave me when he was moving from the house where I was born. I think it was manufactured in 1970. The thing still works perfectly. I replaced the brushes once. It beats the pants off the supposedly "better" new stuff that is available everywhere. After reading all these other posts, I wish I was more skilled in metal machinery to fill my shop with old stuff and restore it to its former glory days!

Thank you all and feel free to keep adding to this thread!

John

[Rick Potter]

I have a 7790 (12") from 1983. Love it. Is the 925 a 9" saw? If so, I would recommend a 10" because of blade availability.

One thing to watch out for on the later ones from the 80's is where the crank for raising the head is. Back on the column is fine, but the models with the crank forward, on top of the arm, are not as heavy duty. This is the era when quality started to get a bit iffy.

[Roy Turbett]

The rule is anything with the elevation crank on the column is good. The round arms being better. I have restored several saws in the past including a mbf and a GWI. I currently have a 7790 getting ready to go back together. The 925 is a little small for my taste but should be an accurate saw. Post pictures when you get it. Let me know if you have any questions about rebuilding. Make sure the carriage is tight and smooth the full length of the arm. If the motor runs then you are golden. Nothing too expensive can happen past that.

+1 on what Cary says. I've restored two MBF's (9" w/3/4 hp motor) and two GWI's (10" w/ 1 1/2 hp motor). I kept one of the GWI's that is built into a bench and use it for dados. It is more accurate and has a smaller front to back footprint than my SCMS but isn't portable. The SCMS sits in the corner on a stand and only goes on the road. I also have a DeWalt 1531 that I'm restoring that will go to our vacation home. While its still made of cast iron, its not as stout as the round arm GWI but has a better motor (17 amp vs 14 amp).

You can frequently buy a well maintained vintage DeWalt for under $150 but may have to replace the motor bearings and/or refurbish the carriage bearings. The motor bearings are less than $50. New carriage bearings can run $200 but they can usually be refurbished for less than $5. They're not as important as the motor bearings because they don't need to spin at high speeds.

[Dave Cav]

They are great little saws; I have restored four MBF/925 size saws and subsequently sold all of them because my 12" Delta does everything I need and I don't really have room for 2 RAS.

[lowell holmes]

I have one set up like Ken's. I used it for years. It sits on a roll around cabinet and has 1x12x60 boards hinged to both sides.
I have cleats mounted low on the sides of the cabinet. Prop the 1x12 boards up to level with the saw table, using 2X4 's.
I can rip up to 10' long boards using this set up.

Having said that, the saw scares me a bit and I don't use it much.

I do have the proper tooth hook angle blade on the saw. It was really grabby before I put a proper blade on it.

[Jon Grider]

I've owned several RAS over the years and find them a huge asset to my work flow. Currently, I have a 1030 round arm and a 1400. Before purchasing the saw you're interested in, check out the arm ways, that is the machined "tracks" that the rollers connected to the motor ride in. Sometimes if the saw has been heavily used, the ways may be worn, particularly near the column. There is some roller adjustability, but if the saw has too much slop that would be a deal breaker. As others have said, the motor bearings should be replaced. Check out Delphi DeWalt RAS forums, lots of friendly knowledgeable RAS folks over there.

[John Bradley]

Thank you everyone for the continued great advice. I did buy the saw, and here are pics of its arrival!353309353311

I have already researched a new blade from Forrest. Yikes! Costs at much as I paid for the saw. This thing hardly has a scratch on it. Motor hums just fine. No slop in the track, and bearings look good. Keep your fingers crossed!

[lowell holmes]

You will not regret buying the Forrest blade. :)

[Chris Hachet]

You will not regret buying the Forrest blade. :)


Agreed! Enjoy your new saw...

[Cary Falk]

Looks pretty complete. Did the 925s not come with table leveling cleats? Now you just need a Mr Sawdust table and you are golden.