Should I put a finish on wooden mallet?

[Bob Noles]

I ordered and recieved a couple of new wooden mallets and was supprised that they were unfinished wood. Now maybe there is a good reason for this and I'm sure y'all will tell me quick if there is. Otherwise, would it be a good idea to stain, oil and or apply a finish to these if for no other reason than to make them look nicer and protect them some? If so, what would be a good choice of finishing options?

TIA

[Jules Dominguez]

Watco would probably do okay, Bob, and it would be easy to reapply later if needed. I can't think of anything else that would stand up to being hammered, other than another oil. I know you're fond of BLO:)
I doubt any surface finish or pigmented stain would hold up, but an aniline dye in an oil base might. I think that's what's in the colored Watco's.

[Bob Noles]

Jules,

Thanks and your reply makes a lot of sense.

I do have plenty of Watco oil still on hand.... come to think of it..... I still have that stinkin BLO in the cabinet right next to the Watco..... I hope I have not cross pollenated the 2 :eek: .

Seriously though, I have come to terms with the BLO and if you think it is a better choice than the Watco for this project, please advise.

[Steve Wargo]

I've made a mallet or two and also some chisel and file handles. I always finish them with a light coat of BLO or Tung Oil.

[Bob Noles]

I've made a mallet or two and also some chisel and file handles. I always finish them with a light coat of BLO or Tung Oil.

Steve,

I have not experienced tung oil yet and this may be a good time to try it. Is it the one that has such a long dry/cure time?

[Dave Anderson NH]

It's funny, just the week before last I turned a new small/medium carvers style mallet from some hard maple. After sanding to 400 grit I applied a coat of 65/35 bLO/naptha. After it dried I wet sanded with another coat of the same mix and wiped dry. My larger mallet which I turned about 8 years ago has held up very well with the same method of finishing.

[Bob Smalser]

The reason for the linseed is so glue won't stick to it.

Raw linseed works better for that purpose.

[Dan Forman]

I read somewhere in relation to wooden planes that if you do use oil, go easy, particularly if your workshop tends toward the damp. I guess the oil can support fungal growth. I just used a couple of coats of wipe-on poly, nothing bad has happened yet.

Dan

[Bob Noles]

Well.... I just got in from the office and went straight to the shop and grabbed the Tung Oil. Gave everything a good coat and let sit 15 minutes and gave it a good wipe off and let sit another 60 minutes before applying a 2nd coat and again wiping 15 minutes later. I will paste wax at some point over the weekend before hanging them back on the peg board.

Looks good and I am well satisfied. I like the Tung Oil initially, but time will tell as it takes on the warm "glow"

Thanks so much for everyone's input.