Veritas plane alignment screw question

[Gary Focht]

I'm new to the hand tool world and bought a Veritas LA jack as my first plane. It is my understanding that the set screws should make it easy to realign the blade after removing it for sharpening, but I have to go through the alignment process every time, almost as if starting from scratch. Is there some trick to it I'm missing?

Also, how tight should the thumb screw on the lever cap be during alignment and during use?

Thanks,
Gary

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Gary

The set screws should be very slightly loose ... just enough space to slip in the blade.

The thumb screw is also a balance between firmness to keep the lever cap in place and to allow the adjuster to move without force.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[William Fretwell]

I believe the plane comes with a warning about over tightening the lever cap. From snug to tight is just over 1/4 of a turn.
The blade needs re-aligning with the sole each time after sharpening, the set screws merely guide the blade edge into a limited range of movement to simplify the alignment process.
So yes it is important you do go through the alignment process each time. Slightly under tightening the lever cap helps.

As this is your first plane I will describe it:
Hold the plane upside down with light above and behind you.
Look along the plane from the front end at a shallow angle.
The merest sliver of an edge should be showing below the sole.
Move the Norris adjuster carefully to exactly align the blade and sole.
Give the lever cap screw a little tweak to finish.
Check the alignment again.

This is quick, astonishingly accurate and absolutely required.

[glenn bradley]

As Derek said, the set screws hold the blade's left to right position. They do not control the lateral adjustment as that would be problematic. They actually amplify the adjusters action to some degree. I change the same iron with impunity when I have to remove it for a quick honing touch up Lateral adjustment and forward/backward position is always corrected when changing irons out or if your "touch up" is really more than that and actually changes the iron length enough to require a bit of adjustment.

[Gary Focht]

Thanks. I've tried looking at the sliver of the blade, but perhaps my poor lighting isn't good enough for my old eyes to see it clearly. Will try to improve my lighting and try my eyes again. Reading reviews and people talking about set screws making blade removal and sharpening a breeze made me think that it should make realignment almost fool proof.

I do love the plane. Can't believe I went all these years without using hand planes. Need to add a smoother and jointer.

[Chris Hachet]

They are a slippery slope.

[Sergey Petrov]

I find that it is easier to align the blade by taking shaving off a narrow piece of wood. Get the left and right side of the blade to take equal thin shavings and then from there you can advance to the depth of cut you want.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I find that it is easier to align the blade by taking shaving off a narrow piece of wood. Get the left and right side of the blade to take equal thin shavings and then from there you can advance to the depth of cut you want.

+1

Just make sure that the wood is large enough that you do not shave your finger!

I often joint one edge of a board on the table saw so i end up with some pieces that are about 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick. I use these to stir finish..... and to check that my plane blades are aligned properly.

[Gary Focht]

Sergey,

I have been been doing that, but I'd go to far one way, then the other using 3/4" stock. Today I improved my lighting, sighted in the blade, tested on 1/2" stock, couple of light taps, test, tap again and I was good to go. Took a minute. I need a little plane hammer or jeweler's a hammer like Derek uses. I can't do the fine lateral adjustment well with my fingers and the Thor mallet is too big.

In summary, today was quite easy. Thanks, guys.

Now that I've conquered hand planes, on to fixing my poor dovetail ability :-)