SawStop PCS Bevel Issue

[Bao Loi]

Hey everyone,

I'm new to the forum and fairly new to woodworking. My only experience was woodworking in college for architecture class. I recently purchased my 1 3/4 HP PCS from SawStop and been having a hard time with my bevel cuts. SawStop service has been horrible as well after many times calling and emailing and have yet to get no response. I hope to get some advice here. I'm not sure if it's my technique or if the alignment of the blade is off. But here is the issue.

After making the proper alignment check based on the manufacture literature (blade to miter slot, fence to miter slot, and the tilt axis), my rip cuts are not 90 degrees even after checking the blade with an engineer square. I'm getting a small 0.2-0.5 degree bevel constantly when ripping or resawing 3" wide boards. I place the cut edge on the fence and there is a slight rocking. Again, I checked the squareness of my fence with an engineer square. This is also affecting my bevel cuts. I went to cut a bevel at 30 degrees on my 3/4" cutting board with the bevel cut just 1/8 shy from the top of the wood surface. The measurement from the top of the board to the top of the bevel cut is 1/8 on one end and then tapers to 1/32 on the other.

I used a thin kerf blade from Freud. My alignment of the blade to the miter slot is less than .001" and the tilt axis is less than .002". I checked the arbor for runout and it's perfectly fine. I'm using the measuring gauge from A-Line-It to make all these measurements.

[Timothy Williams]

Did you check the Fence alignment to the table - 90 degrees? Are you starting with one edge jointed flat?

[Bao Loi]

Yes, I checked the fence for 90 to table saw top and I did joint one side with a jointing jig.


Did you check the Fence alignment to the table - 90 degrees? Are you starting with one edge jointed flat?

[Adam Herman]

throat plate flat with the table front to back? did you check that the board has perfectly parallel edges?

it sounds like you are beveling an edge. using a router with a bevel bit that includes a bearing will take care of all the problems associated with trying to use a table saw to complete the job.

[Mike Henderson]

If you cut a wide board, let's say 8", and trim maybe 1/4 off of it (to 7 3/4") are you getting a non-square (not 90 degrees) cut. If you're getting a square cut with a wide board, I'd suspect that the insert is set too low and your narrow board is being pulled down a bit as it moves through the cut.

Don't know why you'd have problems with SawStop support. Every time I've contacted them they're very responsive. Other people have reported the same good service.

Mike

[Ben Rivel]

On a side note, SawStop recommends not using any thin kerf blades. Believe its stated in the manual too. They're concern is that should one ever hit the brake it might not stop quick enough to save the flesh or it might bend/break due to the force from the stop.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I agree with Mike Henderson on this, it is possible that the plate is too low or too high.

With a thin kerf blade, I am worried about deflection, which could also cause a problem, but, I would expect that you could make a cut with no deflection regardless of blade thickness.

Stating the obvious, I assume that you measure the angle from the side that is facing the table saw top while cutting.

[Bao Loi]

Yes, the throat plate is level with the adjacent table top. I joint one side of the board with a jointing jig so it should be 90 based on the measurements with the engineer square. I plan on doing the bevel edge with a router in the future, but it still doesn't change the problem if i were to need to make a bevel edge for another project. The issue would compound :(
throat plate flat with the table front to back? did you check that the board has perfectly parallel edges?

it sounds like you are beveling an edge. using a router with a bevel bit that includes a bearing will take care of all the problems associated with trying to use a table saw to complete the job.

[Bao Loi]

Let me try to rip on a wider board, but the cutting board cut at a bevel is around 12" wide. So I would like to say that the inaccuracy is still happening.

Yea, I'm surprised with the SawStop service...I emailed them twice directly to the service guy. I also called 2 times to leave a message for clarification on the instruction to make the tilt axis adjustment. No response, but I managed to eventually figure it out on my own....


If you cut a wide board, let's say 8", and trim maybe 1/4 off of it (to 7 3/4") are you getting a non-square (not 90 degrees) cut. If you're getting a square cut with a wide board, I'd suspect that the insert is set too low and your narrow board is being pulled down a bit as it moves through the cut.

Don't know why you'd have problems with SawStop support. Every time I've contacted them they're very responsive. Other people have reported the same good service.

Mike

[Bao Loi]

I was worried about deflection as well...more so with resawing. But I feel that deflection on a 3/4" board shouldn't be an issue. The blade is brand new as well so it's sharp.


I agree with Mike Henderson on this, it is possible that the plate is too low or too high.

With a thin kerf blade, I am worried about deflection, which could also cause a problem, but, I would expect that you could make a cut with no deflection regardless of blade thickness.

Stating the obvious, I assume that you measure the angle from the side that is facing the table saw top while cutting.

[Frank Pratt]

So, the edge that is against the fence is jointed, right? Is the face that is against the table jointed & flat?

Don't understand their service being horrible. I've called a couple of times, not because there was a problem, but just for advice & best practices. They were very good, quick to respond & even quite chatty one time.

[Bao Loi]

Yes, the edge against the fence is jointed by using a jointing jig since I don't have a jointer. I can flip it end for end and there isn't a a rock or a gap between the fence and the work piece. And the fence is 90 to the work top using an engineer square. Maybe you're having better luck than I am with SawStop. I haven't received a response yet....


So, the edge that is against the fence is jointed, right? Is the face that is against the table jointed & flat?

Don't understand their service being horrible. I've called a couple of times, not because there was a problem, but just for advice & best practices. They were very good, quick to respond & even quite chatty one time.

[Prashun Patel]

It seems like your 90 degree vertical rips are also not coming out properly. So, I'd forget the bevel for now, and focus on the straight rips.

What kind and thickness wood are you ripping? Can you rip 3/4" plywood straight?

Have you tried a different blade?

Are you ripping with a featherboard to hold the stock *square* to the fence before the blade? When I don't do that, It is possible for the pushed piece to toe towards the blade. Having the right push stick helps with this as well.

(dumb question:) Is your fence locking to the rail properly?

Also, are you experiencing any burning on the straight cut?

[Bao Loi]

Thanks for the response :)

I'm normally ripping 3/4 - 4/4 boards. The typical materials I use are walnut, maple, paduk, purple heart, and ash.

I've tried two blades before - one regular kerf and one thin kerf. I went ahead and redid all the testing after I bought a new blade and still getting the same results.

I am not using a featherboard to make the rips. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the featherboard help with keeping the width consistent? would a feather board help with keeping things 90?

No burn from my recent cuts and yea the rail is locked. One thing about the rail is that I read it's best to have the rail .001" off parallel toward the end of the table to avoid potential binding. Is this true?


It seems like your 90 degree vertical rips are also not coming out properly. So, I'd forget the bevel for now, and focus on the straight rips.

What kind and thickness wood are you ripping? Can you rip 3/4" plywood straight?

Have you tried a different blade?

Are you ripping with a featherboard to hold the stock *square* to the fence before the blade? When I don't do that, It is possible for the pushed piece to toe towards the blade. Having the right push stick helps with this as well.

(dumb question:) Is your fence locking to the rail properly?

Also, are you experiencing any burning on the straight cut?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

One final thought, is the blade parallel to the fence front to back? More accurately, are the fence AND the blade both parallel to the slots in the top?

[Bao Loi]

Yea, the first thing I did was to check the blade alignment to the miter slot and the fence to the miter slot. I managed to get the blade alignment to less than .001"


One final thought, is the blade parallel to the fence front to back? More accurately, are the fence AND the blade both parallel to the slots in the top?

[Timothy Williams]

I've managed to trip the silly thing twice by hitting it with my miter gauge and I use a thin kerf blade. It has worked fine with no discernable nick on the miter gauge. The blade isn't any good though... :eek:


On a side note, SawStop recommends not using any thin kerf blades. Believe its stated in the manual too. They're concern is that should one ever hit the brake it might not stop quick enough to save the flesh or it might bend/break due to the force from the stop.

[Timothy Williams]

Which part of the blade are you referencing off of with the gauge? Tooth or Top center right below the gullet?


Yea, the first thing I did was to check the blade alignment to the miter slot and the fence to the miter slot. I managed to get the blade alignment to less than .001"

[Bao Loi]

I'm using the center between gullets on a 24t ripping blade. There are many methods on how to align the blade, but the one I followed after not getting any success with the SawStop manual was to mark one area 1/4" away from the edge of the blade and get all the measurements from the front to back with that spot. So I zeroed the measurement out at the front, rotated the blade to the back and took my measurements for making any blade adjustments. I hope that makes sense...


Which part of the blade are you referencing off of with the gauge? Tooth or Top center right below the gullet?

[Frank Pratt]

The main thing I'm wondering about is if the face (the surface against the table) of the board is jointed flat. if there is any twist at all on the face it will mess up your rips.


Yes, the edge against the fence is jointed by using a jointing jig since I don't have a jointer. I can flip it end for end and there isn't a a rock or a gap between the fence and the work piece. And the fence is 90 to the work top using an engineer square. Maybe you're having better luck than I am with SawStop. I haven't received a response yet....

[Bill Orbine]

What have you done to your stock before ripping it? Are these stock flat, even thickness and straight before you take it to the saw? Any twist, cup and bow is likely to leave an undesirable quality of the cut. Secondly... oftentimes when cutting wood, especially when ripping, you relieve the stresses within the wood and it would have the tendency to bow and twist. Finally.....you mentioned resaw. If you are resawing wood, cupping is very common.

[Timothy Williams]

Should have clarified my question better! I was referring to your measurement of 90 degrees from the table bed.



I'm using the center between gullets on a 24t ripping blade. There are many methods on how to align the blade, but the one I followed after not getting any success with the SawStop manual was to mark one area 1/4" away from the edge of the blade and get all the measurements from the front to back with that spot. So I zeroed the measurement out at the front, rotated the blade to the back and took my measurements for making any blade adjustments. I hope that makes sense...

[Bao Loi]

Oh,hahah....I measured in between the tooth rather than on the tooth itself.



Should have clarified my question better! I was referring to your measurement of 90 degrees from the table bed.

[Ben Rivel]

I've managed to trip the silly thing twice by hitting it with my miter gauge and I use a thin kerf blade. It has worked fine with no discernable nick on the miter gauge. The blade isn't any good though... :eek:Hey I was just statin' the facts. SawStop says don't use them. You are welcome to roll however you like :)

[Bao Loi]

Because I don't have a jointer, I made a jointing jig out of 3/4" plywood and the jig is flat. This way I can send the piece with some shims under to flatten one side of the board. I've taken all the variables out from the wood to avoid inaccuracies. It boils down to either I'm missing something in properly setting up the machine or it could be technique that is lacking. I'm taking all precautions to keep the board tight on the fence when feeding so I have no idea what's going on.

Thinking of investing in a Gripper if it helps...


What have you done to your stock before ripping it? Are these stock flat, even thickness and straight before you take it to the saw? Any twist, cup and bow is likely to leave an undesirable quality of the cut. Secondly... oftentimes when cutting wood, especially when ripping, you relieve the stresses within the wood and it would have the tendency to bow and twist. Finally.....you mentioned resaw. If you are resawing wood, cupping is very common.

[Ben Rivel]

Because I don't have a jointer, I made a jointing jig out of 3/4" plywood and the jig is flat. This way I can send the piece with some shims under to flatten one side of the board. I've taken all the variables out from the wood to avoid inaccuracies. It boils down to either I'm missing something in properly setting up the machine or it could be technique that is lacking. I'm taking all precautions to keep the board tight on the fence when feeding so I have no idea what's going on.

Thinking of investing in a Gripper if it helps...Even if it doesnt help with this problem, GRR-Rippers are certainly helpful in others!

[Bao Loi]

I have a planer and I use a jig with shims to make the board flat. I've been having great success with it to flatten one side and then send the other side on the planer bed.


The main thing I'm wondering about is if the face (the surface against the table) of the board is jointed flat. if there is any twist at all on the face it will mess up your rips.

[Bao Loi]

yea....i might have to give it a try to make sure it's not how I'm feeding that makes the work piece a little off. I'm pretty confident that it's not the way I'm feeding it since the bevel is off the whole length of the rip.

Even if it doesnt help with this problem, GRR-Rippers are certainly helpful in others!

[George Makra]

Silly question but is your square accurate?

[Alan Schwabacher]

Hey I was just statin' the facts. SawStop says don't use them. You are welcome to roll however you like :)
(Somehow the quote function left out that this is referring to use of thin kerf blades on a Sawstop.

Sawstop does recommend that you not use super thin kerf blades. But a normal 10" thin kerf blade is 3/32", and the manual says:

"Blades with kerfs much thinner than 3/32 inch should not be used because those blades might not be strong enough to withstand the force applied by the brake when it activates."

(My italics added.) Ordinary thin kerf blades are fine on a Sawstop.

With regard to the OP's problem, could it be you are so careful to keep the stock against the fence you are pushing hard enough to deflect the fence? Pushing too fast for the cut might also cause blade deflection. Try cutting a bit more slowly, while focusing on moving the stock steadily along the fence without pushing too hard against it.

[John Lankers]

To eliminate the cast iron table and the insert plate from the equation lower the blade below the table, move the fence in position to make your cut, then clamp a piece of dead flat melamine or mdf securely to the table, kissing the fence and raise the spinning blade up to the desired height and make your rip cut.
If it still comes out crooked with the blade at 90* and the fence parallel to the blade it might be something not necessarily saw related.
I have 2 machinist squares that are not dead on 90*, one that I dropped and one that I found out the hard way, just saying.

[mreza Salav]

First time read/hear customer service not excellent with SS. I've dealt with them many times and always was overly impressed (IMO they are top notch, right above Lee Valley).
As for your cut issues: the lowest quality part in a SS in my opinion is the laminated plywood that is the face of the fence. It's thickness is not consistent. The fence tube itself is very good and accurate based on my measurements but to get the face of the fence 90 degree to the table top as well as straight took me some shimming and working on it. If you have 0.2-0.5 degree off 90 degree when cutting a 3" thick (basically resawing) I say that's not bad AND the small error could be due to your fence face. Have you measured it at different locations? have you used a straight edge on the face of the fence? I think that's the source of your problem (and next will be your feeding/control). Honestly, with any table saw, if you set it up properly (blade/miter slot/fence parallel; blade and fence 90 to the table top) then it's operator who should check their method if the cut doesn't come out perfectly.

[Larry Frank]

I also have had excellent response from Sawstop and am really surprised at the comment.

I agree that one should check or fix any issues with the fence. Second, how accurate can one expect to cut a bevel. It seems to me that 0.2 degrees is beyond what I would expect from almost any table saw.

[Timothy Williams]

Bao Loi (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?174280-Bao-Loi) is the problem with beveled cuts or are you having issues with getting it set up right with a 90 degree cut? That's what I was basing my thinking on.



I also have had excellent response from Sawstop and am really surprised at the comment.

I agree that one should check or fix any issues with the fence. Second, how accurate can one expect to cut a bevel. It seems to me that 0.2 degrees is beyond what I would expect from almost any table saw.

[Matthew Hills]

What is working right?

Can you do a cross-cut with the miter gauge and get an edge that is square to the *face*? (this is to make sure you can get the blade square to the table, without involving the fence)

Then repeat with a rip, checking if the ripped edge is square to the face.
Try different length (say 8" and 3') boards to see if that affects the results.

[Bao Loi]

Engineer squares are used by machinist so it's very accurate....i hope...haha
Silly question but is your square accurate?

[Bao Loi]

Its at 90 as well. Slight bevel when i put a square to it. Also, when I rip a board in half the seams don't line up when flipped end to end.
Bao Loi (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?174280-Bao-Loi) is the problem with beveled cuts or are you having issues with getting it set up right with a 90 degree cut? That's what I was basing my thinking on.

[Bao Loi]

Great advice guys! I appreciate the feedback. I will take a look at the face of the fence. From what I seen before, there is a slight wave to the face and I read about this problem from many other sources. Might have to find tune that and see what happens. My assumption is that since the bevel and inaccuracy is constant, it might not be the fence.

I'll have to try to see what results i get with a miter gauge.

[Bao Loi]

So here's an update:

SawStop called me back but I missed the call. Called them back but no response yet.

I invested in a jointer to ensure that the face and one edge of the piece of wood is square and after checking they are. I made a few rips on the table saw with the jointed edge on the fence after ensuring that the blade is 90 to the saw top with my engineer square which is also 90. I made this rip with a 24t thin kerf and a 40t regular kerf. The thin kerf had a greater amount of bevel on the cut edge compared to the regular kerf. What I did notice on the regular kerf is are certain areas along the rip edge it would be 90 and certain areas there would be a bevel on a 3/4" stock. On 8/4 stock, there is a constant burning that happens on the upper half of the ripped edge.
My conclusion is its possible that the blade is deflecting.

Any tips on this?

Thanks everyone!

[les winter]

I suggest you pull the plug and grab the saw blade and try to move it, forcefully in the horizontal plane and in the vertical plane. This would help eliminate concerns about the arbor nut/flanges, arbor and trunions having play.

[mreza Salav]

How sharp are the blades?
I repeat, a 0.2 degree out of square on a ripped edge is within error/tolerance range of a saw and your measuring device most likely!

[Bao Loi]

I checked the measurement of the square and it's perfectly 90. The blade is brand new, maybe 10-20 cuts on it so far. it just irks me to put two boards together and the seam isn't perfect....maybe it's just me being too much of a perfectionist...but i mean if you're paying $2,000+ on a saw it should be perfect


How sharp are the blades?
I repeat, a 0.2 degree out of square on a ripped edge is within error/tolerance range of a saw and your measuring device most likely!

[Mike Henderson]

This is a bit off what you're asking, but can you change the blade adjustment so that you get a square cut? That is, put the blade off 90 some amount so that you can get a consistent 90 degree surface on the stock.

If so, I'd adjust the stop and use that as my new 90.

Mike

[Bao Loi]

Yea that would be an option. I just don't now how well I can get the saw to compensate .02 degree off 90.... I'm hoping that adjusting the feed rate will minimize the deflection if it actually is the deflection.


This is a bit off what you're asking, but can you change the blade adjustment so that you get a square cut? That is, put the blade off 90 some amount so that you can get a consistent 90 degree surface on the stock.

If so, I'd adjust the stop and use that as my new 90.

Mike

[Frank Pratt]

Well... If the saw blade is 90* to the table & the fence is parallel to the blade, and the faces that are against the table & fence are jointed & flat, then the cut is going to be square. Maybe it's something to do with your technique? Might be helpful to get someone with some experience over to your shop to have a look. Sometimes a second set of eyes can be a big help.

[Shawn Pixley]

Yea that would be an option. I just don't now how well I can get the saw to compensate .02 degree off 90.... I'm hoping that adjusting the feed rate will minimize the deflection if it actually is the deflection.

I guess I really don't understand how you get those results. I use a Wixey angle box to set the blade angle. It measures in a tenth of a degree. When I set the stops I used this as well, but I recheck when I change the tilt or move it back. I also ensured that the throat plate / zero clearance is absolutely in plane with the top. I use a TK WWII most of the time. I never have had a problem with blade deflection. Unless you are just shaving the edge of a board at rip, the forces on the blade should be equivelant side to side unless you push / feed unevenly.

According to my simple calculations, 0.02 degrees over a 3/4" radius is well under 1/1000 of an inch. My clamps would pull this closed. Most joints will see a jointer plane after a cut (I use spring joints).

[Matthew Hills]

Bao Li,
When you said that certain areas on your rip are square and others have an error, is there any pattern to this?
(is one end good, and the other has an error, or is it a repetitive pattern?)

Is there any chance that the splitter is pulling the wood out of square?

Did you try crosscutting a short bord with the miter gauge and checking that cut for square?

Matt

[Andrew Pitonyak]

A few wild and crazy thoughts where I will summarize some of what I think I have read (in this thread), and some things that I have not....



You have some dry fine wood that cuts well
The blade is perpendicular to the table.
The front and back of the blade are the same distance from the miter track. More correctly, the blade is parallel to the track.
The splitter (or what ever that is called) is perpendicular to the table. Should be if the blade is.
The fence, when locked in place, is parallel to the track
The splitter is parallel to the blade. A straight edge might help checking this, I have never tested this.
You see these results with the SawStop supplied blade. I would test against this before trying another blade. if it is with the Supplied blade, then try another blade.
Have someone stand behind the saw when you push the board through. Does it look like the board stays against the fence as you push it through? I recently watched someone push a board through and it did not stay flush against the fence.
After your cut, parts of the cut are a perfect 90 and some are off by a small amount, remind me how small.

[Brian Tymchak]

having read the thread from top to bottom, I wonder if your feed rate is too fast, and / or inconsistent through the cut. I can envision a scenario where that might cause the inconsistent angle of cut with a thin kerf blade. Or maybe when you reposition your hands / push sticks as you push through the cut, the piece is walking a tiny bit off the fence.

[Bao Loi]

Having someone come in is the last resort. I'm still trying to see make sure its not technique that is causing the error.

Well... If the saw blade is 90* to the table & the fence is parallel to the blade, and the faces that are against the table & fence are jointed & flat, then the cut is going to be square. Maybe it's something to do with your technique? Might be helpful to get someone with some experience over to your shop to have a look. Sometimes a second set of eyes can be a big help.

[Bao Loi]

Thanks for the feedback! I have a Wixey angle reader as well and do use it for some measurements, but i always verify the electronic stuff with engineer square as a way to double check. Again, might be a perfectionist thing in me to this .02 degrees is not good enough. haha....
I guess I really don't understand how you get those results. I use a Wixey angle box to set the blade angle. It measures in a tenth of a degree. When I set the stops I used this as well, but I recheck when I change the tilt or move it back. I also ensured that the throat plate / zero clearance is absolutely in plane with the top. I use a TK WWII most of the time. I never have had a problem with blade deflection. Unless you are just shaving the edge of a board at rip, the forces on the blade should be equivelant side to side unless you push / feed unevenly.

According to my simple calculations, 0.02 degrees over a 3/4" radius is well under 1/1000 of an inch. My clamps would pull this closed. Most joints will see a jointer plane after a cut (I use spring joints).

[Bao Loi]

No direct pattern. The error is better after I purchased a jointer. The bevel is occurs more towards the ends of the board. Splitter is aligned from what I've seen. I did a crosscut and it had the same result.
Bao Li,
When you said that certain areas on your rip are square and others have an error, is there any pattern to this?
(is one end good, and the other has an error, or is it a repetitive pattern?)

Is there any chance that the splitter is pulling the wood out of square?

Did you try crosscutting a short bord with the miter gauge and checking that cut for square?

Matt

[Bao Loi]

Could be the technique, which I'm trying to work on just to make sure it's not me. So far I'm using a feather board and still get the same results. I bought a Gripper just to see if there is anything that will help there.
having read the thread from top to bottom, I wonder if your feed rate is too fast, and / or inconsistent through the cut. I can envision a scenario where that might cause the inconsistent angle of cut with a thin kerf blade. Or maybe when you reposition your hands / push sticks as you push through the cut, the piece is walking a tiny bit off the fence.

[Bao Loi]

Most of the items you pointed out are correct. I haven't had a second person help with the cut. The bevel at 90 degree according to my measurements is .02 degrees off 90 on a 3/4" thick board.


A few wild and crazy thoughts where I will summarize some of what I think I have read (in this thread), and some things that I have not....



You have some dry fine wood that cuts well
The blade is perpendicular to the table.
The front and back of the blade are the same distance from the miter track. More correctly, the blade is parallel to the track.
The splitter (or what ever that is called) is perpendicular to the table. Should be if the blade is.
The fence, when locked in place, is parallel to the track
The splitter is parallel to the blade. A straight edge might help checking this, I have never tested this.
You see these results with the SawStop supplied blade. I would test against this before trying another blade. if it is with the Supplied blade, then try another blade.
Have someone stand behind the saw when you push the board through. Does it look like the board stays against the fence as you push it through? I recently watched someone push a board through and it did not stay flush against the fence.
After your cut, parts of the cut are a perfect 90 and some are off by a small amount, remind me how small.

[Frank Pratt]

I'm wondering how you are measuring .02 degrees over 3/4". For 3/4" radius, 1 degree deviation would be about .0131", which would be visibly off. But .02 degrees would be less than 1/4 of 1 thousanth of an inch. Does anyone want to check my math on this?

If you breath on the edge of the board it will move more than that. You are chasing something that you will never, ever catch. even if you spend a million $$ on a table saw. Right about now, I can understand why the Sawstop guy won't call back, because what your after is just unreasonable.

[Jim Huelskoetter]

I will guess that your measurement error is larger than the actual error. You can measure the angle on 5 different pieces, preferably each slightly different angles. Try to forget the results and measure them again the next day. Then compare results. In a good experiment you would use more samples and multiple people, but this simple trial might show more variation than you would expect.

[mreza Salav]

I'm wondering how you are measuring .02 degrees over 3/4". For 3/4" radius, 1 degree deviation would be about .0131", which would be visibly off. But .02 degrees would be less than 1/4 of 1 thousanth of an inch. Does anyone want to check my math on this?

If you breath on the edge of the board it will move more than that. You are chasing something that you will never, ever catch. even if you spend a million $$ on a table saw. Right about now, I can understand why the Sawstop guy won't call back, because what your after is just unreasonable.

+1
I said it a few times, 0.2 degree is within the error range of the measuring device most likely (a digital angle finder). There doesn't seem anything wrong with the saw.
If everything is fine tuned as you say then: either you are splitting a hair and expecting accuracy that is not reasonable or it's your method of cutting that is not correct.
As suggested earlier, find an experienced woodworker to check your method or take your wood to someone else and see how they cut and what they get and measure that.

[Bao Loi]

Thanks for the feedback guys! I appreciate it!


+1
I said it a few times, 0.2 degree is within the error range of the measuring device most likely (a digital angle finder). There doesn't seem anything wrong with the saw.
If everything is fine tuned as you say then: either you are splitting a hair and expecting accuracy that is not reasonable or it's your method of cutting that is not correct.
As suggested earlier, find an experienced woodworker to check your method or take your wood to someone else and see how they cut and what they get and measure that.