Best way to join apron to table top for workbench?

[Ryan Jones]

Hello,

I have a 2 1/4 inch think maple table top that I have laminated and flattened. I also have 7" wide by 2 inch think boards that I have cut for the apron.

The end aprons have a 3/4 rabbet in them to mate to a 3/4 tongue on the ends of the table top.

The front apron will just be glued on face to face to the table top.

I have cut the tails for half blind dovetails on one side of the front apron that joins to one of the end apron which has the mating pins.

But this got me thinking.... how should I cut the rest of the dovetail joints on the remaining three corners? I want to allow for seasonable movement of the wood. If I cut pins on both sides of the end apron, will the end apron split or cause issues in summer?

The reason I'm doing half-blind dovetail joints is because I'm going to have a tail vise on the end of the bench.

Also, should I glue the end apron on to the tabletop? Right now it's sitting snug in the tongue and groove I routed for the ends.

Thanks, any help will be appreciated.

[John Lankers]

Wood movement would be front to back and not side to side.
You could glue the front apron on and use your dovetails on the front to side joints but don't glue the side aprons on, allow them to shift front to back. A sliding dovetail or a couple bolts installed in slots would do. To join the back apron to the sides you could either use dovetails, boxjoints or any other method as long as you allow for the side aprons to shift toward the back.
On my bench I have 3 layers of 3/4" BB ply covered with hardwood flooring glued together. The top is framed by a 3" x 6" apron with 1" boxjoints at all 4 corners, 6 years old and not going anywhere.

[Robert Engel]

I don't think you will have that much movement.
I've done two benches as you describe with zero problems.