Taking the Festool plunge...

[david mcintyre]

Well, I've finally decided to blow some dough. I've been researching track saws and ROS's and have decided to get the following:



TS 55 (primarily to cut down sheet goods)

Splintergaurd 5 pack
1 additional limit stop (if I'm not mistaken it only comes with one)
spare blade (most likely just like the stock one)
118" guide rail
Guide rail deflector


CT dust extractor (haven't decided which one yet - going to woodcraft today to actually see the size differences) - plus save 10%!
ETS 150/3 ROS


Now for a few questions:

Does the guide rail deflector work well? Is it worth getting?
What are you using for abrasives? It'll be mostly finish work - not a lot of heavy removal with the sander. Festool alternatives that fit?
Would it be worth it to get the handle for the CT or just make my own? Is one really needed at all?
Guide rail clamps - I've got another post going on this subject but will be buying some.


I will be buying from Bob because of the free shipping and no tax. Any other suggestions on "must have" items are greatly appreciated and encouraged.
As always, thanks in advance. You all have been very helpful in my deciding what to get.
Sincerely, Dave.

[Jim Becker]

Congrats! Please don't think of this as "blowing dough", however...yea, it's not inexpensive, but I haven't had to replace a tool in over a decade, so that amortizes out very well. That combined with the precision is a nice thing. And thanks for dealing with Bob. Super nice guy and extremely customer focused.

There's a relatively long thread already established relative to abrasives. I use the Festool discs and buy the 50-packs...they don't go bad over time. I use the screw clamps for the rail for those times when clamping the rail is necessary...they don't get a lot of use in that respect, but are important to have. I'm not familiar with the CT "handle"...my unit is older. On the CT "size", unless you plan on using the vac for shop cleanup, too, there's no real need to "go large". (And it's generally more cost effective to have a sub-$100 "shop vac" for cleanup and just use the CT for tool dust extraction due to the cost of the bags, etc. That's what I do...I have a small Ridgid shop vac and between it and my DC floor sweeps, there's no need to use the CT for cleanup. It "lives" under my bench and has the tool hose and cord setup all the time. I'm also not familiar with the "Guide Rail Deflector", so I can't help with that.

[Ben Rivel]

Just took the same plunge myself a couple months ago. Bought all that and quite a bit more. So far its been a nice upgrade and the dust handling alone with these tool was worth it to me. Congrats and enjoy the Koolaid!

[Van Huskey]

Compare the ETS 150 to the ETS EC 150, brushless ROS are the way to go. ON the tracksaw don't limit yourself to just Festool blades, Freud, Forrest and many others make compatible blades.

PS if you like saving money consider signing up for eBay Bucks it is a "reward program" on eBay where you get a voucher at the beginning of every quarter that you can use just like money on eBay purchases. Uncle Bob doesn't sell on eBay but CPO and Hartville Tool does and have most Festool items available. The normal daily rate for earning is only one percent but at least once I month I get an email with usually 8% (sometimes 6 and sometimes 10) then at the end of the quarter I just spend the eBay bucks on more Festool accessories. It is a simple program and it works.

The other option for accessories is German and UK Amazon while not every Festool item is shipped to the US a lot are and the prices (even with shipping) are usually 30-40% lower. I have bought Systainers, vac hoses and several other things from both Amazon UK and DE and saved quite a bit of money.

In general the guide deflector works but it is far from perfect they were designed for the old rails , some on FOG hate it and have built their own. I use almost all Abranet with my Festool and Mirka sanders. Festool papers are great but Klinspor makes excellent papers and have the Festool hole pattern, there is a LOT of current discussion in the thread about the Pro 5 sander.

Don't bother with the guide rail clamps since you will have a 55 and 118" rail. They are rather a pain to use and get and keep straight, this is true for every track saw except the Mafell (king of tracksaws) and the Bosch which uses the Mafell system but not available in the US. I see from the other thread you weren't talking about the rail connectors, sorry. I have the Dewalt quick clamps which I like better and I got a deal on them BUT I almost NEVER use them.

[Ben Rivel]

Compare the ETS 150 to the ETS EC 150, brushless ROS are the way to go. ON the tracksaw don't limit yourself to just Festool blades, Freud, Forrest and many others make compatible blades.Forrest Blades makes blades for the TS 55? What are the model numbers for those? I cant find them on their website.

[Dick Mahany]

I recently bought several Festools after many years of not seeing a real advantage in that brand. I down sized into a MUCH smaller shop and suddenly the advantages of the MFT and tracksaw became apparent. They were game changers for me as well as the Domino joiner and the Euro cabinet LR32 system. All work as advertised. However, I still don't consider myself a fanboy because I have several other tools that I like more than their Festool equivalents, so I'll be keeping them. As far as several of your questions:

1) The guide rail deflector is marginally worth it. It was designed for their original tracks which were narrower and thus doesn't cover the entire rail end of the current rails, so hose/cord snags still happen all too frequently. It's better than nothing, but I'll be making one like some of the folks on other groups have done.

2) The CT is an excellent vac but it is very expensive and bags are equally expensive. I have a CT 36 and it doesn't have any better suction than my Ridgid 16 gallon vac. It does offer variable speed for sanding suction control and is much quieter. The auto start tool triggered outlet is great, but one can find an aftermarket setup as well. The cost of the bags is insane and so now I use an Oneida dust deputy.

3) I haven't had the need for a CT handle, and have made my own overhead boom arm rather than the expensive attachment for the CT for a tiny fraction of the cost.

4) As for sanders, I can't offer any help as my little old PC ROS just keeps working and refuses to die.

5) Blades. The stock blade on the TS55 is an excellent blade. I did purchase several other blades and they also work as advertised for their intended purposes ( I have always been a blade changer). You might want to see how the stock blade works for your purposes and then purchase additional blades depending on need and purpose.

6) 118" guide rail. When breaking down sheet goods, I sometimes wish I had one, but I use 2 of the 1400 mm with joining bars. They work fine for me and I'm glad I don't have to store that long one given the very limited use it would get in my shop, but it would be very handy if one does a lot of long work.

Good luck with your new tools and be careful as those systainers and all of that nicely organized system can be lucrative.

[Van Huskey]

Forrest Blades makes blades for the TS 55? What are the model numbers for those? I cant find them on their website.

It is a WWI if it isn't on the site lemme know and I can get the model number when I get home, but it is NOT cheaper than the Festool, IIRC it is more expensive. Tenryu also makes excellent blades for the TS55/75 and the Kapex.

[Ben Rivel]

It is a WWI if it isn't on the site lemme know and I can get the model number when I get home, but it is NOT cheaper than the Festool, IIRC it is more expensive. Tenryu also makes excellent blades for the TS55/75 and the Kapex.Got it! (LINK (http://www.forrestblades.com/160mm-woodworker-i-saw-blade-50-teeth-for-festool-saws.html)) Never noticed that before. Have to keep my eye out for a deal on that. Thanks!

[Chris Merriam]

Remember you can talk to your dealer and swap out the 55in rail for another length if you want. Since I already have an MFT with a 55in, I opted for the 75in rail. Connecting two 55's together doesn't really leave any room to cut a full 8 foot sheet. Both ends of the saw must be within the track to guarantee straightness, so your cut must end when the toe of the saw hits the end of the track

[Bill McNiel]

Well, I've finally decided to blow some dough. I've been researching track saws and ROS's and have decided to get the following:



TS 55 (primarily to cut down sheet goods)

Splintergaurd 5 pack
1 additional limit stop (if I'm not mistaken it only comes with one)
spare blade (most likely just like the stock one)
118" guide rail
Guide rail deflector


CT dust extractor (haven't decided which one yet - going to woodcraft today to actually see the size differences) - plus save 10%!
ETS 150/3 ROS


Now for a few questions:

Does the guide rail deflector work well? Is it worth getting? Not really, it is very rare that the hose and power cord will run over the end of the rail, I just loop them over my shoulder or arm. Some folks have an overhead hanger type support to lift the hose and power above the work, the ribbed hose catches on everything.
What are you using for abrasives? It'll be mostly finish work - not a lot of heavy removal with the sander. Festool alternatives that fit? Rubin in lower grits up through 120 Rubin has a stiffer backing and is designed for raw wood removal). Granat for everything else.
Would it be worth it to get the handle for the CT or just make my own? Is one really needed at all? Get the CT, variable suction is important with the sanders and you will buy sanders eventually. All the CTs have the same suction the only difference is physical size (ie. capacity).
Guide rail clamps - I've got another post going on this subject but will be buying some. I have never actually used my clamps in 5 years.


I will be buying from Bob because of the free shipping and no tax. Any other suggestions on "must have" items are greatly appreciated and encouraged.
As always, thanks in advance. You all have been very helpful in my deciding what to get.
Sincerely, Dave.

Definitely wait to buy additional blades. I use the rip blade a fair amount, several times I have used the TS with rip blade to joint two adjacent boards for a top in a single pass. The long rail is something I would really like to have but haven't reached the $300 annoyance level yet. Connecting rails is fairly easy but kind of a pain and it would be nice to be able to rip full sheets without the time expenditure of joining the rails.

​FWIW-Bill

[Ray Newman]

I have the guide rail deflector and use it all the time with my Fe$tool #55 saw. Power cable and vacuum hose just glide along without much effort and do not hang up. Worth the US$22.00.

As an aside, last month I was gifted with a set of the DeWalt DWS5026 clamps. Far easier to use than the screw type Fe$tool clamps, which I find awkward. Most economical price on the DeWalt clamps was on Amazon.

[david mcintyre]

Thanks everyone. A lot to think about...
I really appreciate all the input.
Sincerely, Dave.



Fe$tool

Ray, I'm sure that's on here all the time but it was the first time I saw it. Cracked me up.

[Len Rosenberg]

Dave, welcome to the Green Koolaid. You should check out the Festool Owners Group forum, the depth of knowledge on Festool products is amazing, and the folks are very helpful.

Len

[Charles P. Wright]

I bought a TS75 and CT26 in October aabd have since added an MFT and Rotex 125.

I might not but the extra blade just yet. I used dewalt track clamps on my TS75. I do like the Festool quick ratchet clamps on the MFT.

If you want to actually use your ct for cleanup the compact cleaning my is a requirement. The site wet rubber hose end left marks on some of my cabinets. Having a wide nozzle is also useful. I don't want to log around a shop vac in addition to the CT.

I didn't have a bench with hold downs so the MFT is great for sanding not sitting on the floor. I was skeptical fur the last several years about Festool, but am totally sold on their products in a short time.

I find myself ignoring the deflector.l, but it is only lot free $12.

[Michael Alu]

Well, I've finally decided to blow some dough. I've been researching track saws and ROS's and have decided to get the following:



TS 55 (primarily to cut down sheet goods)

Splintergaurd 5 pack
1 additional limit stop (if I'm not mistaken it only comes with one)
spare blade (most likely just like the stock one)
118" guide rail
Guide rail deflector


CT dust extractor (haven't decided which one yet - going to woodcraft today to actually see the size differences) - plus save 10%!
ETS 150/3 ROS


Now for a few questions:

Does the guide rail deflector work well? Is it worth getting?
What are you using for abrasives? It'll be mostly finish work - not a lot of heavy removal with the sander. Festool alternatives that fit?
Would it be worth it to get the handle for the CT or just make my own? Is one really needed at all?
Guide rail clamps - I've got another post going on this subject but will be buying some.


I will be buying from Bob because of the free shipping and no tax. Any other suggestions on "must have" items are greatly appreciated and encouraged.
As always, thanks in advance. You all have been very helpful in my deciding what to get.
Sincerely, Dave.

Again welcome to the slippery slope that is Festool. All I can say is that you will not be disappointed. I bought a RO150 a few months ago and now I'm planning on quite a few upgrades this year. The problem is deciding what I want to buy first.

[Peter Kuhlman]

The TS55 is a great start point. A dust collector used with that helps greatly to view the cut line and keep things clean. I recommend a CT26 for shop use or a Midi if thinking you will be transporting it frequently. A sander or saw only make dust so the bags last a long time - especially if you have a basic vac like a Rigid for shop cleanup type tasks. As to the boom arm - it gets expensive as you also have to purchase the parts for the CT. I have it mounted to my CT22 and like it but there are other ways to do something similar in a shop. Think seriously of purchasing the MFT/3 very soon. It really allows perfect cuts of panels painlessly. Mine is adjusted so a large panel after 4 cuts is within a couple thousandths of an inch square. Better than I can accomplish on my cabinet saw! Love it for many different type cuts and I get a large clamping work surface as a side benefit.

[Rich Riddle]

Congratulations on taking the Festool plunge. Some of us took it months ago and are still waiting.......and then there is Van.

[David J Blackburn]

The cable deflector is not really expensive and I've found that when I don't put it on the cable will often get snagged on the end of the rail. Even when that happens though, 85 doesn't really affect the cut - I stop the saw, back it up, fix the tangle, and restart and since the tracks haven't moved, there's no impact on the cut.

So, even though I've just argued it's not that importanr, I'd buy it again because for $22 or whatever, it saves some hassle.

[Ted Diehl]

I've been on the green slippery slope for 6 months now - CT-mini, DF 500, MFT/3. I love em all but after seeing a couple of reviews on the Makita Track Saw, I purchased one. I'm looking at the OF 1400 and as soon as my allowance jar fills up again, I'll buy one

[Mike Cutler]

David

-I haven't found that guide rail deflector to be of much value. I went low tech and wrap the end of the rail in duct tape to keep the hose from catching. I don't use it.

- I don't think I'd buy a spare "replacement" blade. I have three blades for my TS-75. A Panther for ripping, a combination blade for cross cuts and a plywood blade.

-The guide rail clamps will be more reflective of how you use the saw. On sheet goods, you won't need them. To rough cut/dimension long boards,( Material that hasn't yet gone through a jointer and planer.) you'll need them. I do a lot of this.

- Think about another shorter rail down the line. That 118" rail is a beauty, but there are a lot of shorter cuts you'll want to make where that length will become unwieldy.

- I use a Fein Turbo II with my TS-75, so I can't comment on the CT.

[david mcintyre]

Well, the wheels are in motion... The "initial" purchase ended up being thus:



TS 55 track saw
FS 3000 - 118" guide rail
1 limit stop so the one in the box won't be lonely
the splintergaurd 5 pack
CT 26 dust extrator
ETS 150/3
D150 - soft interface pad


I ordered from Bob on Friday at 4pm. Now the horrible waiting begins. (I've been checking my Amex to see when it gets charged...not yet, NOT YET, NOT YET, NOT YET, arrrrggggghhhh...)

ok...ok...patience...

Just casually wondering...how long does it usually take for your purchases to arrive from Bob? :)

Sincerely, Dave.

[Jim Becker]

Patience, my friend. I doubt that the folks who fulfill the order and ship it work on the weekend and your charge card will not get hit until it's heading out the door. I'll guess that will be on Monday based on my many years of working with Bob, including the early years when "he" also handled the fulfillment work.

[Ben Rivel]

Well, the wheels are in motion... The "initial" purchase ended up being thus:



TS 55 track saw
FS 3000 - 118" guide rail
1 limit stop so the one in the box won't be lonely
the splintergaurd 5 pack
CT 26 dust extrator
ETS 150/3
D150 - soft interface pad


I ordered from Bob on Friday at 4pm. Now the horrible waiting begins. (I've been checking my Amex to see when it gets charged...not yet, NOT YET, NOT YET, NOT YET, arrrrggggghhhh...)

ok...ok...patience...

Just casually wondering...how long does it usually take for your purchases to arrive from Bob? :)

Sincerely, Dave.Did you swap the 55" rail that the TS 55 REQ usually comes with for the same priced LR 32 hole drilling rail? If not call now and have them do that! If they wont, cancel the track saw from the order and have FestoolProducts.com/ToolNut do it! The holey rail is a must get for future options and its a free upgrade from vendors that will do the swap.

[david mcintyre]

Did you swap the 55" rail that the TS 55 REQ usually comes with for the same priced LR 32 hole drilling rail? If not call now and have them do that! If they wont, cancel the track saw from the order and have FestoolProducts.com/ToolNut do it! The holey rail is a must get for future options and its a free upgrade from vendors that will do the swap.

No, I didn't do that...but that's the kind of information I'm looking for. Thanks, Ben. I've emailed Bob and I'll call him in a little while if I don't hear anything.


Patience, my friend. I doubt that the folks who fulfill the order and ship it work on the weekend and your charge card will not get hit until it's heading out the door. I'll guess that will be on Monday based on my many years of working with Bob, including the early years when "he" also handled the fulfillment work.

I was only kidding (well, I might have looked once or twice :rolleyes:). I understand about UPS ground shipping... The thing is when you've had Amazon Prime as long as I have you start to expect almost instant gratification. Of course I saved $142.98 in taxes so I'm ok with waiting.

Sincerely, Dave.

[david mcintyre]

On a side note... Is anyone else having the issue of seeing the replies in order? I just replied to this post and somehow my reply went in front of David J and Ted's replies from yesterday.
???
Sincerely, Dave.

[Ben Rivel]

On a side note... Is anyone else having the issue of seeing the replies in order? I just replied to this post and somehow my reply went in front of David J and Ted's replies from yesterday.
???
Sincerely, Dave.Upper right corner of the post list where it says "Display", click the "Linear Mode" option. That help?

[Ben Rivel]

Also, hate to maybe throw another possible gotcha at ya, but better to know than to not as I wish I did. Regarding the ETS EC 150/3 (you are getting the EC brushless version right? you should if not), thats what I went with too, but that was before I knew something I thought would have affected my choice. Give this thread a read though: LINK (http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/ets-ec-125150/msg493522/)

[peter gagliardi]

Upper right corner of the post list where it says "Display", click the "Linear Mode" option. That help?
I just found this myself about 2 months ago by accident. Is there any way to set forum viewing up so it does this automatically every time? It can be frustrating.

[david mcintyre]

Upper right corner of the post list where it says "Display", click the "Linear Mode" option. That help?

That did it. Thanks, Ben.


Also, hate to maybe throw another possible gotcha at ya, but better to know than to not as I wish I did. Regarding the ETS EC 150/3 (you are getting the EC brushless version right? you should if not), thats what I went with too, but that was before I knew something I thought would have affected my choice. Give this thread a read though: LINK (http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/ets-ec-125150/msg493522/)

I was not planning on getting the brushless. I'm seriously so overwhelmed right now...would you please let me know why the link about changing pads? And why the brushless over the non-brushless?

Thanks again, Dave.

[david mcintyre]

I understand the EC is lighter and has a smaller profile but from what I've read the non-brushless's weight is better for horizontal sanding (which is primarily what i'll be doing). Plus the $125. When I tried both last Friday at Woodcraft the EC seemed a little louder than the non-brushless. Barely.
When I called Bob, he even said to stick with the non-brushless.
Sincerely, Dave.

[Ben Rivel]

I understand the EC is lighter and has a smaller profile but from what I've read the non-brushless's weight is better for horizontal sanding (which is primarily what i'll be doing). Plus the $125. When I tried both last Friday at Woodcraft the EC seemed a little louder than the non-brushless. Barely.
When I called Bob, he even said to stick with the non-brushless.
Sincerely, Dave.You pretty much covered. Lower vibration as I understand it too. Also there is a brake in the EC versions that will stop the sanding quickly if you needed to. Regarding being overwhelmed, yep, Festools system is like that at first. Start by downloading and learning every item in their catalog and why you might want/need/use it. Then hang out at the Festool Owners Group (FOG) and you can start learning about all the third party accessories and tricks within the system. Once you get a grip on it all youll find as many of us have, there really isnt anything else like it out there. Extremely vast offering of solutions and lots of great accessories that should be offered by all manufacturers. Take your time. Youll figure it out.

[andy bessette]

Great choice! That saw is a most excellent machine that has truly revolutionized my shop and the way I work.

I bought my TS55 kit with 55" guide off c/l, a few years ago. Paid $350 and am still using the original blade! Since then I've picked up the 118" and 72" guide rails plus a spare blade. The long guide makes straightening the edge of raw lumber a snap. But you'll want some shorter guide rails for convenience on shorter cuts. The clamps are entirely unnecessary as the guide rail is so easy to keep in place with its non-slip bottom strips. It is remarkable that this saw can make cuts, in expensive veneered plywood, that are splinter-free on both sides.

You'll want to make up a number of 4/4-square, sacrificial wood strips to place under your sheet goods, so the blade doesn't mar your bench.

[Van Huskey]

You'll want to make up a number of 4/4-square, sacrificial wood strips to place under your sheet goods, so the blade doesn't mar your bench.

Just use a piece of rigid foam insulation which supports the entire sheet. You can use it on the bench or on the shop floor.

[david mcintyre]

I called Bob and left a message. He got back to me within the hour (Sunday mind you). No problem swapping the 55" rail that the TS 55 REQ came with for the same priced LR 32 hole drilling rail. Bob's the man.

Ben, thanks again for the heads up.

Sincerely, Dave.

[Alan Lightstone]

FWIW, I use the rail clamps most of the time I use the saw. I find they help.

Welcome to the green Kool-Aid club. You won't regret the plunge. I haven't tried Van's rigid foam insulation trick. Not sure where I'd store it in my shop between cuts, which might be the deal breaker.

And down the line, I think you'll find the need for the shorter rail. I use it as much if not more than the longer one.

[Jim Becker]

I just found this myself about 2 months ago by accident. Is there any way to set forum viewing up so it does this automatically every time? It can be frustrating.
Yes, you can set it as your default in your user profile.

Jim
Forum Moderator

[david mcintyre]

On a side note... Is anyone else having the issue of seeing the replies in order? I just replied to this post and somehow my reply went in front of David J and Ted's replies from yesterday.
???
Sincerely, Dave.


Upper right corner of the post list where it says "Display", click the "Linear Mode" option. That help?


Is there any way to set forum viewing up so it does this automatically every time? It can be frustrating.

To make Linear Mode permanent:

Way upper right near your name: Settings
Left side under My Settings and My Account: General Settings
Around the middle of the page under Thread Display Options change Thread Display Mode to either Linear - Newest First or Linear - Oldest First depending on your preference.
​Sincerely, Dave.

[Dave Sabo]

I understand the EC is lighter and has a smaller profile but from what I've read the non-brushless's weight is better for horizontal sanding (which is primarily what i'll be doing). Plus the $125. When I tried both last Friday at Woodcraft the EC seemed a little louder than the non-brushless. Barely.
When I called Bob, he even said to stick with the non-brushless.
Sincerely, Dave.


You took a test drive at Woodcraft and then called Bob to order ?

Tisk , Tisk,

I think this is part of the reason some of the woodcraft guys are so smug.

Be aware that the Forrest blade has a wider kerf than the Festool ,Tenryu and Freud blades ! Meaning if you use it, your splinter guards will be smaller and necessitate replacement when you switch back to the other blades. Tiem and $$$ wasted.

I don't care how good that blade is - it's not so much better (if at all) than the stock blades as to warrant the hassle and expense of replacing the splinter strips on the guide rails.

+1 on the EC sanders - but you have to use it. SO don't let a bunch of strangers tell you you should get something that didn't feel as comfortable to use to you.

Re: the sandpaper. Festool's paper is really good. If you buy it in 50 - 100 it's not really that much more expensive compared to other quality brands. And you can get it down the street at your woodcraft today. Try that with Klingspor and Indasa. Uncle Bob will will even sell you mixed grit packs so you can try out grits and types before you invest in 50-100 packs.