Worksharp 3000 question

[Guy Dotan]

I have seen multiple threads about this machine but I have a specific question. I tried everything but I have not able to get a super sharp edge using the port. I really like the ideas of convenience and speed but the results are not there (yet?)
I am now thinking about buying a Veritas MK II, building a platform, flush with the disc, and trying again. This way, if I decide to give up on this machine, I still have a great honing guide.

Did anybody get much better results using the top? Should I buy higher grits than the ones provided with the machine?

Thanks!

[Geoff Crimmins]

What you're describing is essentially the Worksharp Wide Blade Attachment, which includes a platform flush with the top of the disk and a honing jig. You ask about finer grits of sandpaper. What's the finest grit that comes with the machine? I bought mine from a friend and it had a couple of grits of Micromesh, which seems to be fine enough for the chisels and plane irons that I sharpen.

--Geoff

[Mike Henderson]

In my opinion, the value of the WorkSharp is to establish the primary bevel. Then you go to water stones and put a secondary bevel on the blade. I use it - with a diamond plate - to put a 25 degree primary bevel on my tools. Then I use an 8000 Shapton stone to put a 30 (or so) degree secondary bevel on the blade. Works great and gives me an edge that I could shave with.

This way, I only need one grit diamond plate on the WorkSharp so I'm not changing things all the time.

Mike

[Guy Dotan]

What you're describing is essentially the Worksharp Wide Blade Attachment, which includes a platform flush with the top of the disk and a honing jig.


Yes, it is the wide blade attachment, only that I prefer to spend the same amount on the MK II and build a platform, because the MK II can be used with waterstones.



What's the finest grit that comes with the machine?


3600.

[Guy Dotan]

In my opinion, the value of the WorkSharp is to establish the primary bevel. Then you go to water stones and put a secondary bevel on the blade. I use it - with a diamond plate - to put a 25 degree primary bevel on my tools. Then I use an 8000 Shapton stone to put a 30 (or so) degree secondary bevel on the blade. W


So do you only use the 8000 grit waterstone or other grits as well?

[Don Jarvie]

Build a platform for the WS and use that. You can even use a honing guide with the platform and forget the port.

[Mike Henderson]

So do you only use the 8000 grit waterstone or other grits as well?
When I use the WorkSharp, I go directly to the 8000 grit stone. The secondary bevel is quite small so the 8000 stone can create it very quickly. I freehand on the water stone but you could use a jig if you wanted to.

I do have other water stones but only use them for non-WorkSharp started sharpening.

Mike

[I will also say that I settled on the WorkSharp and the 8000 stone after a long journey of sharpening. I tried practically every sharpening technique there is. I tried the Tormek (wet, messy, slow, very expensive), scary sharp (sandpaper on glass or granite), different kinds of water stones, and I don't know what else. The combination of a WorkSharp with a diamond plate and finishing on a water stone is fast and relatively inexpensive. It was the best I could find.]

[Dan Schocke]

I've had good luck getting a sharp edge with the port for chisels and narrow plane blades. I think my machine came with micromesh down to 6000 grit, and I use that final grit to add the secondary bevel as well (requires a light touch). Right off the machine it will shave hairs off my arm, but I follow up with a strop as the final step.

I did have to adjust the port to make the edge square, but otherwise I've really had no issues with the WS3000 except with very narrow chisels (i.e., 1/8 inch). I can sharpen the narrow ones with the port, but it's not 100% fool-proof.

--Dan

[Nick Decker]

I may get shouted at, but I don't like the Veritas Mk II. Had problems with the first one and Lee Valley sent me a second one, but it still won't clamp securely enough to hold the blade square. After I got the Worksharp 3000, I added their wide blade platform to it, which includes a basic honing guide. I like that honing guide better than the Mk II, and use it all the time now.

Love Lee Valley and their service, just not the Mk II.

[Mike Henderson]

I may get shouted at, but I don't like the Veritas Mk II. Had problems with the first one and Lee Valley sent me a second one, but it still won't clamp securely enough to hold the blade square. After I got the Worksharp 3000, I added their wide blade platform to it, which includes a basic honing guide. I like that honing guide better than the Mk II, and use it all the time now.

Love Lee Valley and their service, just not the Mk II.

I don't know if you're referring to holding narrow chisels but LV came out with a narrow blade holder for the MKII. Don't know how good it is.

Problems with holding narrow chisels square was one of my complaints about the jig, also.

Mike

[Andy Giddings]

I use the MKII full kit with DMT and Shaptons and have had zero issues with it holding narrow chisels securely or square

[Prashun Patel]

I disliked the port on my two Worksharps. I found them to never align well. Going over the top with a platform and guide fixed that for me. Also, it allows you to do plane blades. Like Mike, I use mine for grinding, and stones for honing.

[Mike Henderson]

I will say that it took some effort to get my port adjusted so that it grinds square across.

Mike

[Nick Decker]

I don't know if you're referring to holding narrow chisels but LV came out with a narrow blade holder for the MKII. Don't know how good it is.

Problems with holding narrow chisels square was one of my complaints about the jig, also.

Mike

No, Mike, the problem was with the blade on the LA block plane. It would sharpen the primary bevel reasonably square, but when I would turn the knob to 6 o'clock for the scondary bevel, it would not sharpen that bevel in square. Go back to 12 o'clock and it would go back to square. I even took pictures of the problem and sent them to LV. They agreed there was something wrong and sent me a new guide. Like I said, the new one is better, but still not right. I finally just got tired of messihg with it, especially since the Worksharp guide is working fine for me.

[Guy Dotan]

I disliked the port on my two Worksharps. I found them to never align well. Going over the top with a platform and guide fixed that for me. Also, it allows you to do plane blades. Like Mike, I use mine for grinding, and stones for honing.

So it sounds like there's no way to avoid the stones.... even if you use the top...

[Mark Carlson]

I bought the platform and use that with a mkII honing guide. I dont use the port anymore. I've also switched to diamond plates versus the sandpaper. I get results I'm very happy with.

[Sam Beagle]

I bought the worksharp for chisels as well. I couldn't get them where I wanted them. Serviceable, but not shaving quality. Then I got a tormek. WOW!!!! That's the real deal. I now only use the worksharp for back flattening.

[Paul F Franklin]

Look for the thread(s) here about using diamond lapping disks with the worksharp. They are not very expensive and IMO make an amazing difference in the speed and quality of the worksharp. Worksharp is missing a bet not selling them.

[Dave Zellers]

I guess I got lucky with my WorkSharp 3000. The port gives a perfect square cut. For a really quick new bevel or a quick touch up on an existing bevel it's awesome when time is your enemy and/or you're not doing something or using something super special. For example, my A2 or PM-V11 irons from Lee Valley will never touch my WorkSharp. I don't even want them close to each other :eek:. Plus, I'd be very careful using a WorkSharp to flatten backs on expensive tools. It spins so fast, you could pass a point of no return very quickly. I wish there was a way to cut the speed in half. I agree that the diamond disks are awesome. Given that the WS is locked into 5º increments, it's quick and easy to establish a primary bevel at say 25º and then go to the stones and set your honing jig at 26º to just work on the edge.

The leather disk for the WS is possibly the best thing about it. Or not. There are lots of good things about it. But there is also an entire sharpening world that exists beyond it. I've just entered that space and it's exciting and expensive.

[mreza Salav]

I use Workshop and usually followed by sand paper on flat surface. I find the workshop wobbles too much. First I thought it was the first machine I got.
Then they sent me another machine (after complaining) and it was the same. I notice it when I push the chisels to sharpen, I don't hear a continuous sound of contact.

[Dave Zellers]

I use Workshop and usually followed by sand paper on flat surface. I find the workshop wobbles too much. First I thought it was the first machine I got.
Then they sent me another machine (after complaining) and it was the same. I notice it when I push the chisels to sharpen, I don't hear a continuous sound of contact.
These reports are very interesting to me because that is certainly not my experience- it was good right out of the box. It's a shame really because I bet a small bit more of quality control would fix these issues and user satisfaction would be higher and they would sell many more.

[glenn bradley]

I use a variety of sharpening methods. When I use the WS3K I use the port up to 3600. I then use a 4000 and 8000 diamond plate from the top followed by a leather strop wheel. I made my own "wide blade" base and it worked well.

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I caught a bargain on the commercially available base and got that. It is a little less bulky but, not superior to a shop made base if that is what you want to do. I did find their honing guide inferior to the MKII but, certainly not a piece of junk by any means.

The "wide base" needs to be tweaked during sharpening if you start from the top with a lower grit. The difference in grit and abrasive backing thickness can cause finer grits to end up working the heel. If you go to the top for finer grits with similar backings I don't find the difference enough to bother me. It is nice to be able to go from the WS3K to diamond plates with the same guide. I just free hand the microbevel while the iron is still in the jig.

[Prashun Patel]

You don't need to go with stones. I just like to work that way.

Ymmv but I would be careful flattening backs on the worksharp. It is tricky.

[Guy Dotan]

I use that final grit to add the secondary bevel as well (requires a light touch).

How do you add a secondary bevel? Simply go up 5 degrees and plunge?

[Dave Zellers]

Yes. Gently.

[Dan Schocke]

How do you add a secondary bevel? Simply go up 5 degrees and plunge?

That's what I do, but it has to be a very light plunge or you get a pretty large bevel pretty quickly. Probably safer to do this on a stone, but so far the WS3000 has done a good enough job for me.

--Dan

[Jim Dwight]

I bought an extra disk and extra fine paper but I don't hardly ever use it. It seems to me that the chisels are fine with the stock grits and all the finer grits do is make the edge shiny. I shave with razors, not my chisels. When they are sharp enough to do good work, I think it's time to stop and do the work. I've used water stones and have a motorized water stone but I like the Worksharp the best. Seems like I get a good servable edge the quickest with it. But I tend to chip my tools occasionally (I am definitely hard on chisels) and may get a grinder to use with chipped tools.

[Jeff Leimberger]

I find that I have to go to the 6000 grit to get an acceptable edge. Unfortunately, for my wallet, I had a eureka moment not long after buying it, its accessories, and plenty of glass plates and now sharpen mostly by hand. If I was to find a bunch of old chisels for cheap, I would probably clear it off and use it to get most of the way to a keen edge.

[Rich Riddle]

I found exactly the same thing. The chisels get serviceable using the Worksharp, but not super sharp. I did build the caddy and noticed some improvement with that.


I bought the Worksharp for chisels as well. I couldn't get them where I wanted them. Serviceable, but not shaving quality. Then I got a Tormek. WOW!!!! That's the real deal. I now only use the Worksharp for back flattening.

[Guy Dotan]

I borrowed an MKII from a friend. I plan to build a platform and give it a shot.