Block plane epiphany

[Sergey Petrov]

I have been doing amateur woodwork for a while now. I use vintage hand tools mostly. Until now I have not owned a block plane but I have been itching to find one. Alas, all my garage sale and flea market roamings have not yielded anything at all. I have a full range of Stanley Bailey's as well as odd planes like compass planes and fillisters. Today, I bumped into a Stanley 220, the modern blister pack edition . So I figured I must give it a shot. Needless to say, it took a lot of elbow grease to get it flat, square, sharp and all surfaces mating. It had a skew throat and a heavily concave sole. But....after I finished with it...I realised why the universe has been nudging my curiosity towards block planes. It is an amazingly versatile tool. I got so carried away trying it that I made a kiaat cutting board from rough stock:)))

The epiphany then...I can not afford LN and LV toools in general, but I will get myself one of their block planes. It is an amazing tool. Perhaps a DX60:cool:

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[Jim Koepke]

Good for you Sergey!

If my memory is working the #220 has a 20º bed with a 25º bevel for a working angle of 45º.

The DX60 is a low angle bed of 12º. My guess is you will have another "Block plane epiphany" when you have a low angle block plane. They really excel on end grain.

One of my #60-1/2 type Stanley planes had a similar concave sole like yours.

Here is a post of mine on some Stanley #60-1/2 (#60) planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?123401-Fettle-to-the-Metal-With-LA-Blocks&p=1246005#post1246005

It is part of a longer thread in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs hidden away in the "Sticky Threads" at the top of the forum.

jtk

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

The DX60 is a fantastic plane.

[Jerry Olexa]

Block p-lanes in general are an amazingly useful too lfor very little investment....

[Patrick Chase]

The DX60 is a fantastic plane.

Indeed, but the opportunity cost (what you could have bought for that much money instead) is equally fantastic.

I'm pretty happy with the plane-jane Veritas low-angle block (LABP). The adjustments are smooth and precise, the machining is exceptional (no need to lap as with the OP's Stanley), and the PM-V11 iron is functionally equal to the one in the DX60/NX60. The DX60's sole-flatness spec is nominally tighter (+0/-1.5 mils), but every LV block plane I've ever seen is within that tighter spec anyway, and the difference arguably doesn't matter for a *block* plane.

To the OP: Since LV provides a generous return policy I'd recommend trying the cheaper block plane first, and upgrade if you find it wanting. If you end up choosing the cheaper one then you can buy a couple higher-angle blades with the money left over.

[Sergey Petrov]

Jim, exactly right, the bed is 20-21° and the bevel is at 25°.

Low angle is the next step:) It is what I was after but unfortunately woodwork tools are few and far between in Cape Town. There is a veritas stockists but they currently have limited stock.

[Sergey Petrov]

Patrick, I agree. The reason I would go for a DX60 is to pay shipping to SA once. However, there may be a low angle veritas block plane here in Cape Town, all shall be revealed tomorrow.

As for opportunity cost...a famous Russian cartoon cat used to say: to buy something you don't really need, you must first sell something you don't really need:) Maybe I will sell my table saw. It has not run once since I learned to care for my Henry Disstons.

[David Eisenhauer]

Congratulations Sergey on your new, useful tool and your rehab work. As they have told you above, a low angle block plane works well for end grain, plus I tend to grab mine for minor detail corrections of all kinds.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Sergey

What is the woodworking situation like in Cape Town with regard to tools - their availability and their cost? I would be looking out for an old Stanley #60 1/2, but I am unsure whether such tools are to be found in the Cape. Have you lived there long?

Kiaat at is a lovely wood. It is from the Padauk family (but does not look like it). Iroko is a substitute for Teak. I am more familiar these days with Sapele and Makore, especially the latter, recently having built a chest from it. I have a treasured Yellowwood and Stinkwood table that is over 200 years old. The woods of Africa appear to rival Australia for their vibrancy and hardness. Are any of these woods easily available to you?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[mark kosse]

Sergery, a block plane is my most used plane. I have the LN 60 1/2 but use my stanley 60 1/2's more. I have 4 of those. I just never fell in love with the LN. The Stanley's feel better in hand and here I can get 3 clean Stanley's for the same price. Just my .02

[Stewie Simpson]

The modern Stanley Block Planes seem to be getting a severe wrap on the knuckles on this forum of late over their quality control, so I thought it an opportune time to forward my own experience. The block plane I am using on a regular basis was purchased about 5 years ago. It the 050 model, made in the UK, and is the equivalent of the earlier USA # 60 model. Apart from maintaining a sharp cutting edge on the blade, I have never felt the need to check the sole for flatness. In other words its been near enough within tolerance by the manufacturer not to require further work.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/dalmore%20blue%20stone%20box/_DSC0334_zpsmi0ehbmu.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/dalmore%20blue%20stone%20box/_DSC0334_zpsmi0ehbmu.jpg.html)

I am going to put that fact aside for now, and show you the steps I followed this morning in order to flatten the sole of this block plane. A few things to point out before hand. (1) If your block plane has an adjustable mouth, remove the mouth plate and check for any build up underneath, including along the guide rails. (2) If your one of those that tends to apply way too much downward pressure via the lever cap, your also generating too much downward flex onto the sole, that's likely contributing to a noticeable concavity along the sole length. (3) As you work the sole across the surface of the sanding medium, continue to rotate the sole 180 degrees on a regular basis to insure your not creating any unwanted bias being caused by uneven downward pressure on the sole.

Moving on.

The sole has been highlighted with a permanent marker, and the abrasive paper being used is 180 grit wet and dry. Water as the lubricant.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stanley%20060%20block%20plane/_DSC0379_zpsiwg2m6p9.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stanley%20060%20block%20plane/_DSC0379_zpsiwg2m6p9.jpg.html)

After 5 min. of working the sole flat, its getting there.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stanley%20060%20block%20plane/_DSC0380_zpsyksgkvok.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stanley%20060%20block%20plane/_DSC0380_zpsyksgkvok.jpg.html)

After 7 min. the critical areas have been worked flat and its time to put and end to this process.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/stanley%20060%20block%20plane/_DSC0381_zpsoip4s23w.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/stanley%20060%20block%20plane/_DSC0381_zpsoip4s23w.jpg.html)

Stewie;

[steven c newman]

I must be sitting on the Mother Lode of Block Planes in this area...
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Along the top row on the till, the 6 block planes there....three are low angle, along with a 9-1/4 and a couple 9-1/2s, along the bottom edge of the till, a few #220 block planes..and to think, there are another three upstairs awaiting a clean up..

[Ray Selinger]

The Rand sure is falling. Maybe next year we will go back to Namibia . If you can find a Stanley 60 1/2, it's a just right tool. The blade is 1 3/8". Most block planes like the 220 or 9 1/2 have 1 5/8" irons. Even the Record 60 1/2.

[Sergey Petrov]

Hi Stewie,

I hope my post did not come across as Stanley brand bashing. I knew from the shop that the blister pack 12-220 plane for 33USD equivalent is likely going to need a tune-up. I bought it fully aware of my ability to tune it up. Having checked the plane out at home, I realised it will need a major tune up. The mouth/bedding area was skew, the sides perhaps at 88-89deg to the sole, the hollow in the sole lead me to scraping after a blue sander belt lost its vigour. The blade back took a long time to flatten but took a keen edge. Having said all that, the plane worked out of the box with all the issues of a hollow sole but still worked. The blade was sharp enough too.

As an engineer I can say that it is no simple task to make, ship and sell such a product with the end cost of 33USD. Were I to review this plane, what would I say Stanley quality is....well, not very good. But value for money the plane is simply amazing.

Here is a simple board I quickly hoged out while testing the plane on endgrain:)

[Sergey Petrov]

Hi Derek,

I have lived in Cape Town for 17 years and Africa for 22.

The hand tool woodworking situation is a little slow to say the least. I have picked up all my tools from flea markets and private sales. There is a single store which specialises on woodwork. But it is hard for them to hold stock given the lack of turnover. They have a few Veritas items, polishes, shellac, jigs, DMT equipment and machinery. I have a few friends who form the miniature resurgence in hand tool woodwork. As for a block plane, I have not seen one in adverts or flea markets.

On the secondhand market, the tools get snapped up by dealers and collectors. Given that the markets are limited, tool diversity can be limited. In many cases people ask 50-100USD for a beech coffin block plane with no blade, just a wedge. However, often one can buy tools cheap because people do not know what it even is. I have Disston D8 for a dollar and a old record No. 4.for 4 dollars etc.

In terms of wood. It is not cheap but accessible. I have access to iroko and old teak for speaeguns, kiaat is plentyful, black wood from Knysna region, yellowwood, ironwood, panga panga (wenge family), oak, pine. A lot of Oregon pine here. I have used some nice wild Olive too. Wood is expensive, so I scavange where I can. For simple project and practice I currently have 8 pine shipping crates:)

So slowly but surely, we get what we need.

I think I get by because I can learn and do a lot based on what I read on the forums. I have half a'ok pair of hands and engineering education. So I take what I read and make a plan. I strop with autobuffing compounds, use kudu leather and generally make do with what we have.

In my free time I salavate on sawmillcreek:)

[Phil Mueller]

Another thumbs up for "newer" Stanley block planes. Here's a G12-020 I picked up from a garage sale. The iron needed a bit of work, but the sole was flat and has become a favorite. I guess one disclaimer is that the gentleman I bought it from was a woodworker...so who knows what fettling he may have done.

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[Sergey Petrov]

That is the plane I was looking for but all stock is now sold and Stanley South Africa are not interested in restocking. The 12-020 is a 9-1/2 with the adjustable mouth and has been a better plane throughout. These planes are sourced from different factories and one model often has nothing to do with another.

[Patrick Chase]

The modern Stanley Block Planes seem to be getting a severe wrap on the knuckles on this forum of late over their quality control, so I thought it an opportune time to forward my own experience. The block plane I am using on a regular basis was purchased about 5 years ago. It the 050 model, made in the UK, and is the equivalent of the earlier USA # 60 model. Apart from maintaining a sharp cutting edge on the blade, I have never felt the need to check the sole for flatness. In other words its been near enough within tolerance by the manufacturer not to require further work.
Stewie;

I've had a similar experience. i bought a Stanley block plane a while back to serve as a lower-cost complement to my "good" block planes, and it was reasonably manufactured. The sole wasn't LV-flat, but as Stewie points out that isn't all that hard to fix. The adjuster is a bit clunky and rough-feeling, but gets the job done. Overall not as horrible as you'll often see described.

[Chris Hachet]

Block p-lanes in general are an amazingly useful too lfor very little investment....I have a vintage Stanley, a LN Rabbiting block plane, and a Veritas Apron plane that live on the top of my bench. Very useful indeed!

[Sergey Petrov]

So as planned, I obtained a DX60:) First impressions are very positive. The PM-V11 blade takes on a hairpopping edge easily and the plane takes the thinnest of shavings without any fettling. I tried the plane on some Panga Panga I had and the edge crumbled in 10 hard strokes. In soft wood it has been very resilient suggesting that the steel is a touch on the brittle side but very hard. Also, as this was the first sharpening, thiese maybe observations of the surface material. Though I don't anticipate much difference in the blade section.

I purchased the plane from axminster tools in UK and had nothing but great service. They shipped the plane quickly and for a very good price. VAT was also subtracted on the UK side to prevent double charges and was never charged on this side. So I got the plane for a sweet price too.

P.S. As Jim suggested, the low angle plane on endgrain is just another dimension:) I can take curly shavings on my wild Olive endgrain:)

[David Eisenhauer]

Who knows Sergey - sometimes you get to better steel after two or three sharpenings. Sounds like it eats end grain.