That dresser build...

[steven c newman]

Since the other post was getting a tad too long-winded, I thought I'd start a post on just that dresser build part of the Dungeon Shop Remodel.

Ok, I did get a little work done today, Mr. Gumption had dragged me to the shop. I had a glue up to do, on the side #1, first...
.351841
Each one of these plywood panels had to be popped out, a bead of Elmer's run around the edges in the rebates. Then each panel in it's turn ( I was doing one at a time)was popped back into it's place, and then nailed off. I also trimmed the tops of the corner posts to be flush with the top rail..
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Then cleared the bench..
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The bright shiny end on the right? I used a plane to flatten out the well beat up surface. Not everyday the bench is this cleaned off:eek:
So, one of the problems with side #1, was sizes of the rails varied just a little bit. And got trimmed a little too much. Decided to just do all 6 rails at once, so they will be the same size.
First off, they needed trimmed to the same length...
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I used the shortest one of the group, to mark the rest. Then I hauled each around to the 358 Mitre Box and cut the lines.
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Much better? Width and thickness was next...we have ways...
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I also had a combo square set up, to check the progress. Finally got all six to match...S4S
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Just an old Stanley No.5 smooth sole. So, the next time I am in the shop, I can start in with another type of Stanley plane..
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Also, the two corner posts were resawn today, after a major clean up of the bandsaw. Even had Pine Gunk build-up on one side of the saw blade:eek:
Crosscut to make two posts, then resaw until they are 1" thick, by 3" wide, with enough "extra" to plane the edge straight, and smooth. Second post wanted to bow a bit.....

[steven c newman]

Corner post troubles....clamped the two posts together..
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As one barely had any bow to it. I'll let these two sit for a for days..
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And see IF it is any better behaved. I can do the rails first, anyway.
Noticed a bit of squeeze out on the side #1, had to clean that up, AND the shop.

BTW: One of the Shop Cats caught a small Black Bat down in the shop this morning......had to do a "Catch & Release" after she had brought her "find' upstairs to show off. Of course, she lost it. Finally trapped the critter between a Broom and a dust pan, and let the critter loose out the back door of the house. Last seen flying west, as fast as it could go. :rolleyes: After all, most Dungeons do have a few bats, right?

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

Years ago the neighbors cats began to use my folks garden as a latrine. Dad took an extremely dim view of that, and told me that he intended to break them of the habit. To do that, he said you had to give them a "real bad experience." In his case it meant him setting out on the back porch with a BB gun. He told me that it was amazing how fast a cat could run when it as motivated.

At any rate, you may be rid of the bats. Being caught by a cat has to be considered a "real bad experience," I would think, even if the bat was let go.

Stew

[Chris Hachet]

Making progress...hope to see it in person Saturday if things work out.

[steven c newman]

Might have the other side about done, by then?

Ok, despite it being a Monday, decided to at least try to get something done. Had 6 rails to do..with a lot of this going on
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The apron was getting too many holes from the screws....went with this bit of scrap..
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Held flush to the top of the bench. It no longer mattered where the screws would go.
After each and every rail was finished with the 45, time to trim for the tenons. I had installed a loose piece of scrap on the Mitre Box's bed/deck. I added a screw to keep it in place. Made a gauge line to place each end of the rails to. Just a pencil line. Mitre would crosscut to a certain depth...
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And as long as the end just barely touched the gauge line..
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The length of the rail between the tenons would be the same. To remove the waste from the tenon? The other day it was by backsaw....too much set ups for that, Today it was a jig on the bandsaw..
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I'd set the rail up on it's side, with the waste between the jig and the blade. I'd saw back until I reached where the Mitre saw cut was. throw the waste away. I'd then clean the tenons up with the chisel.

Finally, after almost 2 hours in the shop, these six parts were about..done
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And, they are all within a 1/16" of each other, and the top rail of the other side's panel. That is what I set things to.
Molded 10 edges on these six rails, top and bottom rails only get molded on the plywood panel edge. Makes a LOT of shavings to be swept up...
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Igor had already swept the floor twice before this shot, and left me to sweep things up for the third time.

Maybe tomorrow, I can start on the two corner posts? Twas a good day in the shop...nothing was hurled against a wall..:eek:..stay tuned

[Chris Hachet]

Staying tuned....

[steven c newman]

Could have used a bit of help today....
Corner posts have been jointed and surfaced on the sawn side.
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Chopped some pockets (12 of these things)
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After a lot of transferring lines, cutting things to make feet..
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And a lot of fitting going on..
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Finally got to the point I could do a bit of assembly work. Worked my way down one post, checking for square as I glued and screw each rail in place.
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A cordless drill to make the pilot holes, but..
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One for the counter sink bit, and the Yankee for a Phillips #8 screw. Two screws per joint.

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Don't ya just LOVE them knots? NOT. Used a couple clamps to help out with the other post. I installed the scews in the bottom rail, and then pull the rest of the mess in to match, about 18-7/16"wide overall. had a couple that took a bit more clamping pressure.
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Decide against doing the plywood panels tonight, 4 hours IN the shop is quite enough for one day.
Stay tuned, have a little "extra" to post about...

[steven c newman]

Ok, some of the tools today....that old mallet got a workout, my little 6" combo square as well.
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And, it is kind of nice to sit down on the job, Bandsaw had a few jobs today.
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Backsaw came in handy, as for that chisel...
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Not only can I see myself in the back, but the bevel as well. Before each "pocket" was chopped, I used the pants leg of my jeans to "strop" the edge a bit....way too many knots today. Might have gotten it TOO sharp...
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Just barely grazed the finger....and made a mess,,,
As for those screws. Two per joint, with a bed of Elmer's..
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Wound up with a frame..
352041

Discovered i had one foot a hair too long. Trimmed that off, now they set nicely with the side 1 behind it.

Look at the second rail down?
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Yep, a bit of DNA Finish.
Plywood panel will be tomorrow, too tuckered out, tonight.
Stay tuned....

[steven c newman]

Also, I had to use the Stanley #45 as both posts needed the sash cutter run along an edge.......again, those knots got in the way. Unless I use the sash cutter for around the top's frame, I think I am done with it, for now. Need to reset it to make a rebate for the back. I also have a Wards ( Staneley) No.78 to try. I need to mill a rebate along the back edges of both side panels, to install a back for the case. Say, about 1/4" deep, by 3/4" wide. Then I can size the web-frames better.

I think I know a way to clamp the sides to the bench, to mill the rebates. Wil see in the morning, after getting the plywood panels installed in side #2.

[Chris Hachet]

Also, I had to use the Stanley #45 as both posts needed the sash cutter run along an edge.......again, those knots got in the way. Unless I use the sash cutter for around the top's frame, I think I am done with it, for now. Need to reset it to make a rebate for the back. I also have a Wards ( Staneley) No.78 to try. I need to mill a rebate along the back edges of both side panels, to install a back for the case. Say, about 1/4" deep, by 3/4" wide. Then I can size the web-frames better.

I think I know a way to clamp the sides to the bench, to mill the rebates. Wil see in the morning, after getting the plywood panels installed in side #2.


Keep the pics coming, hoping to see this Saturday.

[steven c newman]

well, IF I can get out of my chair this morning, I might wander back to the shop, for a few things...

Dealing with someone called Miya S. B. Draggin right now. Doubt IF I'll do another 4-5 hour stint in the shop, today.....might just "plane around" today..

[Chris Hachet]

Works for me!

[steven c newman]

Tested both the Stanley #45 and a Wards ( Stanley) #78 out this morning, to cut a rebate or two.
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The 78 didn't do too bad a job, but is a bit hard to hold AND push.
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Set up for a 1/4" deep by 9/16" wide rebate. Thumb on the left hand was getting sore. Not much of a place to stick the thumb in.

I had set the 45 just a tad narrower as it turned out
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About 1/2' wide. not a biggie.
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It was a bit easier to hold and push along, though. Thumb wasn't complaining. There are a couple of knots along the way on this rebate, and the cutter on the 45 chatter a bit going through them. Kind of a schrill "eeeep" .

I spent some time, cleaning the 78,sharpening it.s cutter. I also had to work on the cutter for the 45...a Number 17 cutter. I flattened both the bevel and the back. both needed that. Figured if both planes wer at their best, a better comparision could be made. The 78 weighs about half what the 45 did this morning, too. 78 was easier to adjust the depth of cut.
As for the rest of today's Shop Time?
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I have a few panels to cut out, and install.....might be able to at least get a start on web-frames....tomorrow?

[steven c newman]

Ok, I got the plywood panels cut to size, fitted to the location they go to, glued them in place and added a few small nails, for good measure..
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Had to fine tune a few edges. Used a "made for Sears" Millers Falls block plane.....like a Stanley #220. Got all the panels in place.
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But... I wasn't quite done with the side. Used it to layout some measurements to build the web-frames from..
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Once all the figures were in, I could set the Side #2 aside...
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And crosscut a bunch of parts..
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enough to make 6 web-frames. Still need to make a few "kickers". Mortise & tenon work to join these parts. Just a chisel and a mallet. Might have to make a jig to hold things square for a glue-up. Been a LONG day..
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nails were short enough, I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to start the nails. That is it, until tomorrow...stay tuned.

[steven c newman]

Ok, for those that are following along. Since both sides are now done, time to make a few web-frames for the drawers to slide on. They also help hold the sides together..

First, I needed a bunch of these cut, and fast ( don't have all day to fool around with them)
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The short rails get a small tenon on each end, so I made a "prototype" to set a few jigs up. The Stanley #358 Mitre Box had depth stops I can set..
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That little brass thingy, under the guide. Set the front and back one to just barely touch the tenon on the prototype. I also needed a "stop block" for repeatable cuts....going to be a LOT of them..
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So...24 tenons required 48 cuts made....whew, hard on an old elbow. Next I needed a way to cut the waste off of each tenon's cheeks..
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Re-saw guide on the bandsaw, came in rather handy. I'd saw until the waste fell over. So, now I have 48 of these little scraps all over the floor....just to get this far?
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The other end looks just the same. Next, had to go and dig out and old jig for chopping mortises. It did need a bit of an up-date, though. Old sides were a bit too tall, and the space between them was too loose... made a pair of new sides. and clamped a part and the sides into the vise..
352231
drill and countersink a few new holes. Then I could install the jig on the bench, right over a leg's top...
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The long rails get a mortise on each end. Kind of a funny looking mortise, as these will be open-ended ones.
Nearing the limit on photos. So, the next episode, in a bit, will deal with the mortise work, to build a few frames

[steven c newman]

Ok, that is weird. All seven photos are just listed as "attachments" Hmmm. I didn't do anything different on my end. Oh, carry on.
352233
Ok, with a pair of Visegrips Finger clamps to hold the part in place. I can saw just inside the lines,( the waste side), and trying not to over-cut too much. I use a mortise chisel to chop down on the far end, and then just pop the waste out..
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And use that wide chisel to trim for a nice fit on each tenon.
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Not too bad? The jig helps hold each frame, so I can check for square, if need be..
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I am fitting each and every part to it new home, and marking which end of which part goes where. I also had a few old sticks of pine..
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This is called a "Kicker". One goes on the underside of each frame. They are there to keep a drawer from tipping down when you pull the drawer out. The frame for the bottom of the case will have two kickers, also on the underside. I place those there to add a bit of strength at the bottom of the case. They also help attach a face frame at the bottom.
So far, after about 3-4 hours/
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Three frames are ready for glue & Nails, and a pair of screws to hold the kickers. halfway there, the other three should be a little quicker to do.
If I can, I may wander back down to the shop later.....we'll see. Stay tuned.

Now, about those "other' pictures? Ok, it seems to have fixed itself? Went to edit it, didn't have to...

[steven c newman]

Suppertime is done, debating on going back to the shop, or just put a movie in and kick back awhile getting to be a LONG week....

At least the harder stuff got done today, next time will be just a chop here and there. Clear the bench and nail the frames together. Maybe tomorrow, eh?

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

It looks like the "Dresser" storage cabinet is coming along well, and it looks like it is going to be pretty good sized for storage. Have to say: looks like a big improvement for storage over the drier.

Good job.

Stew

[steven c newman]

Should be a decent place to hide all the extra stuff out of sight.

Got all the frames ready for assembly
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Was running out of a place to stash them. Once the last bit of M&T work was done, I cleared off the bench...and started some assembly work
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Spread some glue, pull things together nice and tight, and square..
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Add two nails per joint....Drill a counter bore
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And drill a pilot hole, two per end. These are for the screws to attach the frames to the sides.
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Bottom frame ( #5) gets two of these kickers, adds a bit of strength to the case, the rest of the frames will look like this..
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The kicker here is on the underside of the frame, and keeps a drawer from tipping down. So far, I have the bottom frame and the next two frames above it done. Maybe after I return from a road trip later, I can get the other three frames assembled?

Maybe tomorrow, I can start to attach the frames to a side..or two? Might be a bit rough for just one pair of hands to do....

[steven c newman]

Brand new camera, and still a bit fuzzy? Oh well..

Got all the frames made tonight. Then I installed them on to one of the sides..
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These have been glued and screwed into place. I even had a framing square to keep things aligned..
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Will need some extra hands to help flip this over and on to the other side.....And, assemble THAT side.

[steven c newman]

no "work" today.....went on a road trip, instead. Went to the Columbus, OH area, and toured two very nice shops. Chris has even less room to walk around in his shop than I do, as it takes up an entire garage. Lots of stuff to look over. Had to help him and Andrew P. unload an older Delta Cabinet saw.....about 500 pounds of saw!....good thing we had torn the thing down a bit. Seller had a Cabinet saw/Guitar shop FULL of old arn.....and I forgot to take a camera along..drat.
We also did a shop tour of Andrew's shop...also very nice. Then we stopped at a place for a Mexican Supper.....Then one more time at Andrew's. Got a couple chisels done on his tormek. Then was driven back to my place by Chris


Highly enjoyed the day! Got to see other shops. Very nice hosts. Maybe doing it again in a month. I just MIGHT have this dresser done by then...maybe...
BTW: we did flip the dresser over, so I can attach the other side to the frames. I had the lumber to make a frame to hold the top's panel, just need to do a bit of resaw work, again. Stay tuned

[Stewie Simpson]

Steven; nothing personal, but the quality of the photo's you are posting with your new camera are not doing my eyesight any favours.

My apologies for being so forward.

regards Stewie;

[steven c newman]

On that note...I can stop taking pictures all together.....

Anyway. ( Use you'all's imagination) Got the second side attached to the frames. Had to do a bit of chisel work to get a decent enough fit. Mainly on the stiles, where the rails were a hair lower than the stiles. Chiseled out a spot for the rails to sit in. Kind of awkward, though, and had to forego any glue. Screws alone, for now. Once the back is on, and the rails for a face frame are installed, should be quite enough to keep things together.

Rails to make a "face frame" are just 1 x 2s. On each end will be a single dovetail. Hand chopped, at that. Working from the bottom up, I managed to install the first two rails.....and ran out of clamps. hate when that happens.
Glue in the sockets for the pins, and glue along the edge of the web-frame. Clamp it all in place. I used a pipe clamp to pull the side/stiles in tight. I used two "F" clamps to hold rials together until the glue set. had to use another one to adjust one web-frame into flush with the top edge of the front rail.

Lunch Break, and let the glue dry. Trying to figure out how to reach the other spots.

[steven c newman]

Best I can do, with what I have for a camera. IF someone wants better ones, they can bring thier OWN camera to my shop, and take what pictures that suit them.
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Where I had to dig a little extra out....
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Where I am working at. To take these, I had to shut off the overhead lights, and use a Mechanic's Trouble light to see.
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Web-frame clamped to the face rail. As for the dovetail
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A bit of sawdust to fill any gaps. Pipe clamp to help pull the sides tight

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As for lighting.....it is what it is, I need to be able to actually SEE what I am doing, and not worry about someone else's "picture quality" set up.

So, you all can either put up with MY camera, or.....show up and do your own. My cash is going towards the woodworking, not running a Photography Studio. Or, just put your glasses back on.......

[steven c newman]

Well, went out and bought a 1/4" x4' x 4' plywood panel, and a couple 2 x 2s. Half the panel will be for the back of the case, the left-over will be for the top.

Talked with the Boss, and bought a 20 meg upgrade grade to replace the "fired" vivitar......something called a Vivi cam XX14? will see how it does, later.

Top will be a frame. 1" thick, mitered ends. A plywood panel will get glued and nailed into a rebate so it fits flush with the top of the frame. LONG screws to attach the frame to the tops of the stiles. Screws will be under the panel, out of sight.

Have all the rails cut to length for the front edges of the webframes. Will give it a face frame look, or at least try to. Hoping the tripod holds onto the new camera a bit better....

[steven c newman]

Camera settings: This is a very bare-bones, point & shoot Vivitar. With a very hard to see screen to adjust any settings. No "F Stop" on the lens.
Tripod: Is a bit worn. The shaking issues were more to do with the PLASTIC area on the camera where the tripod threads in. Yep, threads in the camera were stripped out. Bought an "upgraded version last night of the vivi cam. At least the threads on it are brass.

Shop lights are directly overhead of my bench. I prefer to at least be able to see what I am working on. There is a pair of BRIGHT T-8s in the shop light. The rest of the very dark basement shop, is either LED or the energy saver coiled bulbs.

It is very CRAMPED down in the Dungeon Shop. Usually just enough room for my fat body to move around and not knock things onto the floor. Almost like working in the back of a mini-van.

May give the new camera a test run, with the lights on....sometime later today. The Boss has other errands she wants done first.....there also seems to be a rule against working in the shop on Mondays......

Bright work lights vs clean, white Pine......glare factor.

PS: the camera being complained about the last couple of days, is the same camera I bought several weeks ago, and everyone seemed to like how clear the pictures were. Strange.

[steven c newman]

Ok, this is only a test, in the event of a real camera being used, you would have been instructed to.....

Had to go back and re-size them a bit. Pictures were coming out a bit too RED, and had to tone things back a bit. Still having issues with glare off of white wood. Still learning when to use the Macro setting, and when NOT to..
352425
Welcome to my world
352426
this is where I do most of the work in the shop..
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Though, sometimes, I'll be back here. Plywood panel is for the back of the case, and should be enough for the top's panel. The 2x3 will be re-sawn down to make parts of the tops' frame.
352428
Still learning about that "Macro" thing....

You can almost read the scale on the square...

"This concludes the test, " as the voice on the radio was wont to say.....

[Pat Barry]

Ok, this is only a test, in the event of a real camera being used, you would have been instructed to.....

Had to go back and re-size them a bit. Pictures were coming out a bit too RED, and had to tone things back a bit. Still having issues with glare off of white wood. Still learning when to use the Macro setting, and when NOT to..
352425

352428
Still learning about that "Macro" thing....

The first picture is really nice! The 'macro' on my Canon requires me to be very close to the object - like an entire flower (rose) fills the frame. Once you are more than a few inches away the macro hurts more than it helps - never focuses properly - like your last picture. Why do they call it macro anyway? I would call it micro!

[steven c newman]

The "red" hue seems to be from the lights used in the basement...I do not have LEDs in the shop. Just florescents...Found asetting for THAT, and will try it out at a later date. I also was able to select a better size of pictures, instead of the 2.2 mega files it was taking. It still has problems with taking both a close-up ( the brace till) and anything in the background ( PlaneTill) will try to either "crop" the backrounds out, or try something else.

Camera is a Vivitar vivi cam XX14. Still learning.

[steven c newman]

Took the day off from any shop work, as the camera "issues" were being almost taken care of. Didn't leave any time to do wood working....may be getting withdrawals? And, normally, I try to avoid working in the shop on a Monday. maybe I can get a little something done tomorrow? Hopefully, it will be woodworking.:mad:

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

I think the picture of the plane and brace till are pretty good. The background seems pretty good in that picture to me. Not sure what you mean by the close up problem, the plane till, again, looks pretty good to me. The next two pictures are pretty good too, I think.

(However, I am not much of a photographer, so my opinion is probably not worth a lot.) Sounds like you are getting the photo thing figured out, though.

I am following this build with interest, as I hope to build a case something like it to store old coffee cans in: nails, screws, etc. so following an example of how to do the framing is of significant interest.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[steven c newman]

Ok, more rails have been installed today...They get a dovetail on each end..
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Then I could use this to mark out where each tail went..
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Leaving the lines, and chopping on the waste side
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Then a test fit. I worked my way up one side, getting all four rails to fit....then rotate the case around to where I could work my way back down the other side. Had the case sitting between the bench and the power tool bench. I could clamp it in place so I could hammer away on the chisels...The top rail used a slightly different "tail"
352488
Since the top rail is flush with the top of the corner posts. No need for a full sized socket...one side would just break off, anyway.

As I was working my way back down the other side, I could glue and clamp each rail in place. Some needed an extra clamp or two. Top edges of the rail needed to be flush with the web-frame's top edge, as that is where the drawer will slide. I also used a few pipe clamps, to pull the sides in..
352489
i think I had just enough clamps to do this job. Now it is a matter of letting the glue dry. Then maybe cut and fit a back to the case. Glued and screwed to the web-frames. Will have to make sure the case is square, too

In the meantime, I can do a bit of resawing to build a top.
352490
Frame will be 1" thick....so that slab had to be sawn off. Mitered corners, rebate for the plywood panel, and maybe a molded edge. Mitered corners may be a bit fancy, too

Stay tuned...

[steven c newman]

Ok, clamps are now off, and put away, for now. Needed one to hold the case still on the bench. Sooo, now the plywood panel for the back has been cut, and screwed in place. Case is now sitting on it's own four feet. have the parts for the top's frame rough cut. Will need to run a couple planes tomorrow, to remove the saw marks. Might even set up the Stanley #45, as I have a few more jobs for it to do....

Methinks that will be quite enough for one day, there is always tomorrow. Almost too tired to take the camera back down there....stay tuned

[steven c newman]

Well, on the theory of Pictures or it didn't happen..
:rolleyes:
352511
Standing on it's own four feet. The boards on top?
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The long rails of the top's frame, with a fancy Mitre joint started. The short ends?
352513
Have a "date" with a couple planes.....panel for the top needs trimmed to size..
352514
After all the rebates are done, that is. Stay tuned to this Batty Channel ( no, the bats have left the building, for now.:eek:.)

[David Eisenhauer]

Progress, top next, drawers to go. And the photos are definitely better than on some of your older projects. I see you are talking about dragging out your 45 again and believe you have an affection for that plane. I like mine too, but I broke my nicker and need to replace it because it does not do nearly as good a job without it. I scored a deep knife line for the shoulder line the last time I used it.

[steven c newman]

I keep a spare nicker in the 45's box. BTW, it is the same as the nicker on a Stanley #78...
Lunch is done, might see IF Mr. Gumption is ready, before I head towards the shop...have a couple jigs to make, to help with all the hand plane work...

[steven c newman]

Took awhile, but all the rails have been done..
had to plane the sawn sides down flat and smooth..
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Type 17 Jumbo jack did a lot of shavings, as did a cambered jack. Cambered worked on the saw marks and waves, Jumbe did the flat and smooth.
352559
Sash cutter installed. Unlike last time, this time around the cuts are on the face side, not the edges. Leaves a nice wide rebate...if you also use one of these..
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Used about all the toys in the picture. Finally got a flat rebate for the plywood to sit in..
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On the long, wider rails, the sash cutter left a wide lip. I used a jack plane to get it down close, then followed up with the 78.
Finally a few test fits....first one show I was a little out of square on the long rail's cuts....re-trim a bit, try again..
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I added a screw to the joint, for now. later this will get a dab of Elmer's and the screw. Cover the hole with a square "plug" when done.

Shoulders are sore,now......will take a nap. Next time, I intend to have the frame in place, and add the plywood panel. next week will start the drawer building....that should be a lot of fun...stay tuned..

[steven c newman]

Ok, that frame for the top:

As luck would have it, when I turned the frame over, the rebates set right down onto the case's sides. easier to assemble.
352606
I added a screw to keep things lined up, while I assemble the other end. Glue and a few screws, one per corner. Drill a small pilot hole. I did run into a small problem ( as usual) as the one long rail was too thick at one end....Stanley #5-1/2 took that away. Marked out and cut the brace, with a dovetail tail on each end, I then had to mark where the socket was on the long rails..
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Then clamp this rail into the end vise
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A backsaw to cut the angled lines, that chisel and mallet to remove the waste...test fits..
352609
Glued into place. Then lay the completed frame in place, drive ONE screw
352610
Combo square set to the spacings needed, then add more screws all the way around.
Laid a plywood panel on the frame, marked it for size, and cut it down....
352611
To check for fit. Pop it back out. I marked along the molded edges where every hole or screw was, along with the center linr of the brace. A nice big bead of Elmer's was then applied where needed, panel tapped down into place, and nailed off.
352612

On the molded edge, there was a lip that stood proud of the molding, and the plywood surface. I took that little plane around all the edges, removed the lip, and blended things into a slight round-over. Stood the case over where it will go when done..
352613
I think I can call the case done? Well, I do have to go back and counter sink a few nails, and add some pads for the feet...
Next up, when I can BUY the lumber, will be five drawers. Haven't decided on a finish, yet.
So, next time....I may be building a few drawers...stay tuned..

[steven c newman]

Trip to Home Despot, only because I was going through the area on the way home. Sticker Shock on both the pine 1xs and the 5mm x 4' x4' panel.....had to sort through a bunch bad boards, in order find two 1x8x8's and a single 1x6x8" worth the price they were asking.. Boards are now in my shop, should be enough to do three drawers tomorrow....depending on when I wander down there...

[steven c newman]

Have one 1 x 8 x 8' all crosscut down. Then, I snuck back down to the shop.....and dovetailed one corner of the drawer. I was just going to test out a "better" saw....one thing lead to another...just couldn't stop myself.

Decided one corner was enough for the night, and closed the shop. Will report back later this morning, maybe with a few pictures.....might have the bottom drawer done by ....Lunch?

[steven c newman]

Just a taste of what I have to do..
352713
One corner done.....

[steven c newman]

Ok, after 3 hours of making saw dust and shavings.....drawer is sitting in the clamps, waiting on the glue to cure...

Dovetails were chopped..
352731
And the Stanley 45 was used to plough some grooves, and..
352732
A couple dados to house the back of the drawer.
352733
had to set the spurs, and make some entry and exit saw cuts, to prevent blowouts. Got a plywood panel cut for the bottom...and then clamps and glue were used.
352734
Dovetails don't look too hateful..
352735
There was one last detail to do, while waiting on the glue..
352736
I always bevel the back corner at the drawer's bottom edge. Helps when you go to insert the drawer into the case. Couple whacks on a chisel to make the bevel.

Since the glue up takes up MOST of the bench's top, I'll have to wait until I can takes the clamps off, before I start on the next drawer....one down, four to go....stay tuned.

[steven c newman]

For those of you following along...
352747
Drawer has been fitted to the opening...one down, four to go.
I think that will be enough for one day.....maybe tomorrow, I might get something done?

[steven c newman]

Gaining on it..
352789
One drawer is complete, second one has been dry fitted, and inow sitting in the clamps...
352790
waiting on the glue to set up...

[steven c newman]

Two done, three more to do..
352823
And..look Ma, no metal slides..
352824
Need to start on the next one, on some other day than a Monday.....
352827
Normal Monday Bench top.
352829
Close up of the corners...might be getting close to load up time? I do not think a coat of paint will do for this.....maybe just BLO, and a coat or two of Poly?

[Pat Barry]

Drawers look to be coming along nicely! I was thinking that you would be apply a face board though, to cover up the exposed dovetails. More of a furniture feature though I suppose.

[steven c newman]

Just storage for the shop. :D

Drawer #3 is sitting in the clamps, right now
352887
Started this just after 3pm..
352888
When I crosscut a 1 x 6 x 8' Pine board...not too bad a day? Even for a Monday....:rolleyes:

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

The close up of the corners looks pretty good. You asked about finish, and mentioned paint, BLO, and poly. From that I take it that your now famous "Witches Brew" is out for this project?

I like a go around with Danish Oil followed by plenty of drying time, and end up with a coat or more normally two of poly U because it is so tough. The Danish oil always seem to give fir or pine lumber a nice warm appearance. Don't know how it would look on dovetailed joints though, but I THINK it would be fine.

Keep us up to speed on the finish you decide on.

Stew

[Chris Hachet]

Enjoying the progress...Keep at it!

[steven c newman]

Made a trip to pick up the last of the lumber for this build. Need to build two more drawers. Been hiding from Mr. Gumption all day.....waiting on a bowl of Chili & Rice to settle....then maybe a trip down to take a few pictures?

I had to buy the boards as 1x6s, as the last two drawers are too high to use a 1x4 on. They will require a rip to width cut, and a jointer..plane...

Hide the exposed dovetails? Why? All that work, and someone wants them hidden? I'll just celebrate mine.....shows off what I can do in the shop.

[steven c newman]

Ok, here we go. I had to move the case out of my way today..
352978

This thing is getting heavy.....

Cross cut the next plank, resawed it for height and jointed the sawn edges.
352979
But the ends were a bit wavy...soo, an old jig came out to play..
352981
To get rid of the non-square ends..
352982
Yeah, I switched to a little larger plane to "Chute" with, a #6c

Did the usual dovetail things..
352983
After that, I ran the Stanley 45 around awhile. Then resized the back piece to fit. Then cut the plywood bottom to fit.

Grabbed the brand new bottle of glue, and a bunch of pipe clamps, and put drawer #4 into glue-up mode..
352985
Diagonal clamp is to pull it into square. Screws were added to hold the back better. Along with a few through the bottom panel and into the back.
Four drawers done, one more to go.

Not sure IF I'll apply a finish down in the shop, or haul the thing upstairs and apply it there. All this moving the case around (not a whole lot of room down here) and one of the nailed on foot pads came off.....yep, shoe found it. Good thing my shoe has a thick sole. maybe tomorrow, I can add the knobs and start on #5? Maybe this weekend, I can get the old Dryer OUT of the shop, and start loading this dresser up. Might even add a rack on one side, to hold the pipe clamps...stay tuned, almost done

[steven c newman]

Uuummmm, Morning, is it? I gotta stop them late night trips to the Dungeon.....

IF and when I manage to get moving around today, I may get #4 out of the clamps. Might even add the knobs.

Debating on adding a slim piece of wood, to help "center" the drawers....or maybe just learn to slide them in straight......

[steven c newman]

Well, drawer #4 now has the knobs installed, and is fitted to the case.

The Infamous Witch's Brew was dragged out, a pint of SMELLY BLO added to "refresh it" up a bit. Top has a coat of it, along with the front and one side of the case. And the four installed drawers. Letting things dry today, even the camera is taking the day off.

Design parameters:

LOW Budget ( as in almost no budegt)
Pine: Someone else wants fancy wood? Go out and buy some.....waste of good wood with this project
Skill set: Trying to keep what little skills I do have, in working order
Shop Storage: This will get abused, beat up, slid around. Never meant for "Upstairs" use. This will reside in a basement.

If someone is taking notes on how this is being built, fine. Go out to your shop, and put the notes to good use. Try them out, if you do like them, that's fine too.

This is being built to take abuse in the shop, never was meant to be "Fine Furniture"

Maybe, someday, I'll make another one out of Brazil Wood......first I have to get a bunch to work with.

[Chris Hachet]

Be glad to see it complete and interested to see what yous tart next.

You get more done in a hand tool shop than many power tool guys get done...

[steven c newman]

Well, I went to the shop, to take a few pictures of some fancy looking pine....
353018
Has this right down the center of the 1 x 6 I was going to use for the top drawer....trying to decide how to show it off...

Sneak peek...
353019
Getting closer to the finish-line. First coat of Witch's Brew.....it will be sitting her until the smelly stuff dries..
353020
Almost done..

[steven c newman]

OK, how long does it take for a BLO finish to dry enough that I can get back to work on the last drawer?

[steven c newman]

About 24 hours, it seems....

Ok, was a hit and miss sort of day today, work awhile, errands for a while, then back to the shop.
Got tired of the Cordless circular saw's wavy cuts, decided to try something else..
353083
IF you look closely you will see two saws in use, here. I used the Disston D-8 to crosscut the pine plank, and refined the cut a bit on the Stanley #358 in the background. The square?
353084
Is a rather LARGE Stanley one. There are numbers I can read on the blade, the number closest to the arm is a number 8, as in 8". I also had to joint a sawn edge, as i had to shrink the width down to 4-1/2". Then the usual suspects showed up..
353085
The backsaw? Came from an old Eclipse Nest of saws...Along with a few chisels tonight, to get to this..
353086
Then I ran the stanley 45 around a bit, grooves for the bottom panel, and a dado for the back to sit in.
Then I could resaw the back to fit. Then it was time to cut the plywood for the bottom, and then the glue and clamps..
353087
I did use a clamp across the back, just long enough for me to add 3 screws to each side/end. There are a few more screws to hold the bottom in place, as well.
Maybe tomorrow, I came get the last of these drawers out of the clamps..
353088
Install the last of these knobs. Fit the drawer to it's opening. And then add the finish.....stay tuned, might be almost ready to post as a "Project"?

[steven c newman]

Ok, about to call this project done. It began because this mess had to go..
353119
Nasty place, needs a bit to make this fit into a workshop..
353120
I think this does look a little better?

353121
Details, details. Was lucky enough to find five pairs of knobs that matched each other....
353122
Hard to believe that top is just a 1/4" thick, plywood panel, sitting in a frame.
That little box on top? It houses the main tool I used to build this dresser. A Stanley No. 45, type 20 SW from Roxton Pond, QUE. Canada.

I think I can call this a completed Project?

[Chris Hachet]

Call it complete indeed! Looks really good, hope it provides years of good service!

[Stew Denton]

Hey Steven,

Looks pretty good! Your famous Witches Brew looks pretty good on it too, brings out the dovetails pretty well.

Now you will have to fill it up. I am now certain it will be better storage than the washing machine.

Good Job!

Stew

[steven c newman]

Thanks to all that visited this little thread. Project is done, now. Will take a bit of time to re-set the shop. Then maybe a little time off, to plan the next project.....whatever it may be. I am sure I can cobble something up.....

[Don Orr]

I just read through this whole thread and what a great post you put together as well as a darned nice piece of shop furniture. Congrats and I hope this chest serves you well.

[steven c newman]

Read through the entire post? WOW! Thank you very much, as well!

last one of these dressers I made was......2010 or so.....

So far, it is filling up fast, yet the drawers still work just fine.

IF anyone wants to try to build one of these, I'll be around to answer any questions about the build they may have.

[steven c newman]

If need be, and the first dresser fills up too fast....I suppose I could build another one? Maybe a slightly slimmer width? Maybe a "LowBoy" style for under the bench?