Show me your wooden jacks

[Tony Wilkins]

I'm thinking of making myself a wooden jack plane. Show me any wooden jack planes you've made. I needs me some inspiration.

[Mike Henderson]

This may be more of a smoothing plane than a jack plane, but I'll post it anyway. I made this one about 2008. Red birch with a lignum vitae sole.

Mike

351784351785351786

[Matt Evans]

Here is mine.

[Steve Kang]

Hi Tony, I'm also planning on making a wooden jack. Have you decided on whether to go with a laminated krenov style? Or with traditional with abutments?

[Tony Wilkins]

Hi Tony, I'm also planning on making a wooden jack. Have you decided on whether to go with a laminated krenov style? Or with traditional with abutments?

Unsure which way I want to go. Or even the laminates with abutment that Paul Seller's demonstrated.

[Bob Glenn]

The first plane I made. Pulled a piece of cherry out of the firewood stack. The iron is A1 tool steel. I had access to a tempering kiln in the shop at work. The heat treating process last almost a week.

[Oskar Sedell]

Applewood Jack. 15''. 2'' E A Berg Iron

351795

[Derek Cohen]

My understanding of a Jack plane is one used to remove as much waste as quickly as possible. It uses a moderately cambered blade, somewhere between 8" - 12" radius. One does not take fine or full width shavings, as with a smoother. Deep rather than wide is the way.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaJackPlane_html_m6c5c80f9.jpg

A typical metal jack is the Stanley #5. Generally, Jacks run about 15" long in either metal or wood.

The camber on my wooden jack (10") ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaJackPlane_html_30cbd1d5.jpg

Razee design to keep the power low ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaJackPlane_html_ma7dc66e.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kees Heiden]

Two double iron jackplanes I made last winter, along the lines of the classic English planes.

351831

351832

One is 14" long with a 2" iron, the other is 16" with a 2 1/8" iron. Made in the traditional way from radial cut beech. The irons are vintage.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Kees

I am curious how you use a double iron in a jack plane, if the blade is cambered as I mentioned above?

The jack pictured above is one I built several years ago, before we began using double irons, and it continues to do duty. I also have a #605 set up as a jack, and here the chipbreaker is pulled back. In other words, it may as well be a single iron plane. So, unless the plane does double duty with a straight blade, why is it important to use a double iron specially in a jack plane?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stewie Simpson]

Two double iron jackplanes I made last winter, along the lines of the classic English planes.

351831

351832

One is 14" long with a 2" iron, the other is 16" with a 2 1/8" iron. Made in the traditional way from radial cut beech. The irons are vintage.

Hi Kees; the following is another example of a double iron Jack Plane. The amount of camber would likely vary between a single and a double iron Jack Plane.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/j%20pearce%20jack%20plane/J%20PEARCE%20JACK%20PLANE%2002_zps9gzo4lz3.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/j%20pearce%20jack%20plane/J%20PEARCE%20JACK%20PLANE%2002_zps9gzo4lz3.jpg.htm l)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/j%20pearce%20jack%20plane/J%20PEARCE%20JACK%20PLANE%2001_zpssup3ox5g.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/j%20pearce%20jack%20plane/J%20PEARCE%20JACK%20PLANE%2001_zpssup3ox5g.jpg.htm l)


100 Smoothing plane, single iron
101 Jack plane, single iron
102 Fore [try] plane, single iron
103 Jointer plane, single iron

108 Smoothing plane, double iron
109 Jack plane, double iron
110 Fore [try] plane, double iron
111 Jointer plane, double iron

[Tony Wilkins]

I know both will work but would rough fore/jack (which is what I'm thinking of making) be better off with a thick single?

[Matt Evans]

A personal observation. . .Double or single iron, the only time I really feel a double iron is needed is if there are a lot of chip jams. Typically, I only have an issue with chips not ejecting on thin shavings, so my personal thought is that single irons are fine for any plane that can use one, so long as you don't run into jamming issues.

The few planes I have made have all had single irons, be they fine or rough work planes.

Just my thought.

[Stewie Simpson]

Tony; that would depend on the type of grain your normally working with. If its straight grained timber, controlling depth of tear-out is not as big an issue.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Hi Kees

I am curious how you use a double iron in a jack plane, if the blade is cambered as I mentioned above?

The jack pictured above is one I built several years ago, before we began using double irons, and it continues to do duty. I also have a #605 set up as a jack, and here the chipbreaker is pulled back. In other words, it may as well be a single iron plane. So, unless the plane does double duty with a straight blade, why is it important to use a double iron specially in a jack plane?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I think it is a very interesting question why you see wooden jointers and jacks with double irons. The old timers did not do all that much without a good reason. All of my wooden bench planes (jointer, jack, coffin smoother) are double iron.

Do you think the double iron at least limits the tear out, even if not set closely enough to eliminate it altogether?

[Derek Cohen]

Nicholas, I do not see a need for a chipbreaker with a jack using a deep camber.

One does not plane with the grain when planing panels, so a suggestion of grain type for plane use is irrelevant. Planing here takes place diagonally or across the grain. If planing with the grain, I would use a fore plane, such as a #6, which has more camber than a smoother, but much less than a jack. A double iron would be useful here.

In the areas for a jack, a single iron suffices.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Wilkins]

Tony; that would depend on the type of grain your normally working with. If its straight grained timber, controlling depth of tear-out is not as big an issue.

The wonderful thing about North America is lots of straight grained hardwoods about perfect for handtools. I feel sorry for you Australians when I read about the sandstone columns y'all call trees; of course if I relied on trees native to Lubbock I'd be weaving grass baskets.

That said, don't worry too much about grain with a fore type plane as I traverse across the grain with it.

[Stewie Simpson]

All good Tony; sounds like you've covered the initial stage of using a jack/fore plane. When you work out why Jack Planes were historically also offered in double irons as well, you should be able to work out the next direction of planing.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Tony; you might find the following something to think about. Listen carefully to why its called a Jack Plane.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65sVCcvewB0

All the best with your wooden plane build. If you decide to go ahead with the traditional construction, you're in for a steep learning curve.

Stewie;

[Kees Heiden]

Hi Kees

I am curious how you use a double iron in a jack plane, if the blade is cambered as I mentioned above?

The jack pictured above is one I built several years ago, before we began using double irons, and it continues to do duty. I also have a #605 set up as a jack, and here the chipbreaker is pulled back. In other words, it may as well be a single iron plane. So, unless the plane does double duty with a straight blade, why is it important to use a double iron specially in a jack plane?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I thought this was just a show off thread, not a discuss the double iron thread :p

But to answer your question, I don't think the capiron does anything in these deply cambered planes to reduce tearout. But there is more to a double iron then just that. It is a springy part in the clamping arrangement and seems to tighten down the works considerably. When I adjust the plane it needs a solid wack with the hammer. It now behaves the same way under the hammer as my other wooden planes, which makes it somehow easier to go from one plane to the next.

BTW, I use the jack plane just as much or even more often with the grain then across. On anything not really wide, going across the grain makes things more difficult.

And I only need such a deeply cambered jack only when I really need it, when a lot needs to be removed. When only shallow cuts are neccessary I go straight to the tryplane.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Kees

Interesting idea about the spring in the chipbreaker. I see this with a Stanley, but the ones for the woodies I have are pretty stout/stiff. Consequently, I wouldn't have considered that spring played a role there. But it makes sense.

As a matter of interest, have you ever measured the radius on your jack blade? Any idea?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andy Nichols]

Derek:

is the brass mouth on your plane held in place with screws? Have a very old Jack that I would like to add something like that to it.....

Thanks,
Andy

-- mos maiorum

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Andy

With screws (filed flush) and epoxy ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaJackPlane_html_mc4a011.jpg

The plane was an interesting experimental build (8 years ago), using a combination of solid cheeks and side laminations ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaJackPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Nicholas, I do not see a need for a chipbreaker with a jack using a deep camber.

One does not plane with the grain when planing panels, so a suggestion of grain type for plane use is irrelevant. Planing here takes place diagonally or across the grain. If planing with the grain, I would use a fore plane, such as a #6, which has more camber than a smoother, but much less than a jack. A double iron would be useful here.

In the areas for a jack, a single iron suffices.

Regards from Perth

Derek

This one often planes with the grain when planing panels ;) and so I use a plane with a chip breaker.

I'm with Kees in that I work with the grain using a jack plane almost as much as I work across the grain, if not more.

[Derek Cohen]

The issue is, Brian, when using a jack with pronounced camber, the chipbreaker is pulled back out of the way. Is that correct?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

It's set to a spot where it's functional against the chip, noted by the chip exiting up and not curling or curling lightly. That setting is further back than it would be for a finish plane or a try plane, but certainly not so far back that it isn't working the chip.

[Kees Heiden]

Then I can certainly set the capiron a bit closer to the edge, it will overlap the corners then. I suppose it is one of those "skill" things again, being able to put it exactly where it helps, without putting it so close that you need to push way too hard.

Derek, I forgot where I ended up with the camber. I was not happy with the 6" - 8" when I made the planes, but I forgot what they are now. A bit more then 10" for the longer plane is my guess and a little tighter with smaller plane.

[Derek Cohen]

This is why I have asked about the radius of the camber you use on your jack(s). There is no point in moving the chipbreaker closer on my #5 as it could not get close enough to make a difference. The radius is 10".

I am not sure whether what I use as a jack, another will see as a scrub-like plane. And what you call a jack is closer to what I use as a fore plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

I'm using a jack, not a fore plane. David Weaver made the plane based on historical examples.

I dont measure the radius I just work the bevel until it does what I want it to do. It's significantly cambered.

[Stewie Simpson]

The thought process behind how much camber is needed on the iron is an interesting topic. In my case, the most important consideration is taking full advantage of the irons width, so deciding before hand what the maximum depth of cut is likely to be with that iron will determine the amount of camber. Its likely the case, based on the diverse range of uses for a Jack Plane, that either 2 sets of irons, or 2 Jack Planes are preferable to have at your disposal. That in itself seems to fall within some historical context, given the fact that wooden Jack Planes were offered in both single and double iron formats. Of the 2, I know which one I would personally choose to apply less camber too.

I am also not an advocate of encroaching the front edge of the cap iron into the cambered profile, but that determination is based on the thickness of the front edge, commonly found within earlier made cap irons.

Stewie;