Should a buy a Delta Bandsaw model # 28-203 for $300

[Rick Pinzon]

I am planning on buying my first bandsaw and someone is selling a 20yr old original owner Delta 28-203 bandsaw for $300. It looks like is in good shape and has new tires , cool blocks, fence and 2-3 extra Olson blades. The label states made in the USA. The plate on the motor states 3/4 HP made by Marathon electric made in the USA. Is it worth it?

[John Lanciani]

Based on your description that is a very fair price for a quality American made bandsaw. Buy it...

[Van Huskey]

Good price for a solid saw, especially if it has the fence. The only thing I would point out is with that motor (which you could change later) you will not want to do a lot of resawing.

[Rich Riddle]

It seems like a decent price for a saw which has a fantastic parts availability should you ever need them.

[Rick Pinzon]

If it is 20yrs old, is this considered a year that their tools were better quality. It may sound like a dumb question but even made in America labels are very deceptive these days. Just wondering when delta went down hill?

[Art Mann]

It seems like a decent price for a saw which has a fantastic parts availability should you ever need them.

Not from Delta! That situation has changed much for the worse.

[Van Huskey]

If it is 20yrs old, is this considered a year that their tools were better quality. It may souls like a dumb question but even made in America labels are very deceptive these days. Just wondering when delta went down hill?

It is not a dumb question BUT with the cast 14" bandsaw it is not a simple point where the quality went off a cliff. The 14" cast saw when you take into account every thing from the quality of the castings to the feature set actually went up and down and sidewise depending on the year and model over the near 80 years they made them. My favorites are the very early 890s from the 1930s and the very last US made ones in the X5 series (28-475X). The 28-203 is as good or better than any of the Asian 14" cast saws made today but it will not have some of the features people like (like quick release tension and bearing guides) but many of those "features" I actually consider inferior to what they replaced. The 28-203 actually varied in quality over its production life but they are all solid saws. The only drawback to this one is the 3/4hp motor which is fine for contour cutting but weak if you want to do much resawing. Delta no longer makes a cast iron 14" saw
so you can't compare them to a current Delta model but the 28-203 is a very good specimen of the venerable 14" cast saw. There are literally tons of aftermarket parts and "upgrades" for these saws. Bottom line if you want a 14" cast iron saw this is a solid one and if it is in good condition you can buy with confidence.

[Van Huskey]

Not from Delta! That situation has changed much for the worse.

We all know Delta's parts woes but there is practically nothing on this saw that can't be easily replaced or upgraded through a number of parts source. You might have trouble if you need a major casting and the OEM fences are rather rare but outside of that they have the greatest aftermarket parts availability of any non current production saw.

[Mike Kees]

Yup!!!! I have this saw. It is a real good price ,run don't walk,Buy it.

[Pete Staehling]

Yup!!!! I have this saw. It is a real good price ,run don't walk,Buy it.
I have a similar Delta (model 28-245). I think paid $390 about two years ago. It came with a bigger motor (1-1/2 hp), aftermarket tension springs, a fence, a miter gauge, and a riser block. I cracked the table trunnions when moving it. After a little confusion over the part number, I bought new ones from Delta. The guy at Delta Power Equipment parts suggested that I use some heavier duty trunnions. They had the stock ones and some heavier duty ones (I think he said they were for a drill press but would fit).

The only other problem was the tracking arm on the upper wheel support assembly that I destroyed trying to get enough tension on a 3/4" wide blade. I found a replacement for that from The Saw Center. I forget which saw currently has a compatible part, but I think it was Rikon. Anyway the part is readily available.

Bottom line... I think it is a very nice saw and the parts you are likely to need are easy enough to find. I consider it a good deal for $300 and would happily pay that if I were in the market for one. I would stick with narrower blades than 3/4" ones even for re-sawing. I figure it is wise to stick with 1/2" or less (5/8" at the most). I had been using a Timberwolf 3/4" (0.022" thick) that is supposed to run well on it, but have decided to stick with narrower in the future after I wrecked the tracking adjustment arm. Despite supposedly being a low tension blade proper tension for the 3/4" was a bit much for the saw. I find the 1/2" blades to work just fine.

If you plan to do much re-sawing the 1/2 hp motor is likely to be a bit under-powered and you will likely to want to replace it at some point. If you do I recommend going 1-1/2 hp or larger.

[Rick Pinzon]

Thank you all. We have agreed on $225 so I will be picking up today.

[Van Huskey]

Thank you all. We have agreed on $225 so I will be picking up today.


Now it will be time for blades:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149862-Lets-talk-bandsaw-blades!

[Rick Pinzon]

Thank you Van

[Rick Pinzon]

Wow. I just clicked the link. It looks like a small novel. I'm sure it has plenty of good details that will be useful. Thanks again

[Art Mann]

Congratulations! That is a good price from what I have seen.

[Art Mann]

We all know Delta's parts woes but there is practically nothing on this saw that can't be easily replaced or upgraded through a number of parts source. You might have trouble if you need a major casting and the OEM fences are rather rare but outside of that they have the greatest aftermarket parts availability of any non current production saw.

Not everyone knows about Delta's new owners and their business decisions. I think it is important for anyone who is contemplating buying used (or new!) Delta equipment to realize that the company doesn't support their older equipment. I have seen an example where a relatively new Delta drum sander is gathering dust rather than making it due to the lack of availability of a poorly designed part. It is worth making the effort to identify alternative sources of repair parts before buying.

[Van Huskey]

Not everyone knows about Delta's new owners and their business decisions. I think it is important for anyone who is contemplating buying used (or new!) Delta equipment to realize that the company doesn't support their older equipment. I have seen an example where a relatively new Delta drum sander is gathering dust rather than making it due to the lack of availability of a poorly designed part. It is worth making the effort to identify alternative sources of repair parts before buying.

I don't disagree that people need to know this, I certainly overstated the knowledge of the issue. The reality is not a lot of manufacturers maintain parts for 20 year old machines at least ones they don't continue to build today. The key is with Delta 14" saws and the clones there isn't a lot you can replace on them very simply. There are a lot of Delta machines I would not buy based on parts availability including anything from them new, this bandsaw doesn't fall into that category.

[Art Mann]

Yes. I have seen a lot of very old saws of this type that have never needed anything but an occasional tire replacement. Also, the Grizzly G0555 is pretty much a copy of the Delta and I understand some of the parts are interchangeable. I can't say I am sure because I haven't tried it.

[Van Huskey]

Yes. I have seen a lot of very old saws of this type that have never needed anything but an occasional tire replacement. Also, the Grizzly G0555 is pretty much a copy of the Delta and I understand some of the parts are interchangeable. I can't say I am sure because I haven't tried it.


A few parts interchange between Delta and the imports but far fewer than one would think just looking at them. The imports however have a wider number that interchange but it is still far from universal.

[Rick Pinzon]

I now have the bandsaw and I've been learning to tune it. I notice there is a little vibration with it and I have been online looking for tips to eliminate this. One tip I have seen is to change to a link belt. How does reduce vibration? Are there any other changes that I can make?

[Van Huskey]

I now have the bandsaw and I've been learning to tune it. I notice there is a little vibration with it and I have been online looking for tips to eliminate this. One tip I have seen is to change to a link belt. How does reduce vibration? Are there any other changes that I can make?

What you need to do is narrow down the cause of the vibration. Start by removing the blade and if it runs with no vibration you have eliminated the band and upper wheel assembly. Try that and report and we can go from there. However, my gut tells me it is likely one of three things, a poorly welded band or either the belt or tires have taken a set from not being used for a while both of which may resolve themselves after a little running.

[Rick Pinzon]

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Here is a photo of the saw.

[Rick Pinzon]

I will remove the blade and try that first but what do you mean by the "band"? I assume you mean the blade?

[Rick Pinzon]

by the way, as you can see in the photo, its a closed base and also came with a rolling base.

[Van Huskey]

I will remove the blade and try that first but what do you mean by the "band"? I assume you mean the blade?


Yes sorry, band = blade.

You did well, looks to be in great condition and included the fence which a lot of the do not.

[Rick Pinzon]

I removed the belt and I don't believe it made much difference. After examining it closer I don't think it made a difference but maybe the vibration is normal for a power tool and I am being paranoid or expecting too much. Too further desribe, it barely fails the nickel test. The nickel will fall when I start the machine but can balance it while it is on but only after using my surgically steady hands. Also I placed a metal ruler edge against the top side edge of the upper door. My guess is the vibration or wobble is about 1/16 of an inch. Also I notice when the belt is on and running, the blade moves from front to back about 1/32 -1/16 of an inch. That is also visually apparent watching the blade track on the wheels

[Rick Pinzon]

I removed the belt and I don't believe it made much difference. After examining it closer I don't think it made a difference but maybe the vibration is normal for a power tool and I am being paranoid or expecting too much. Too further desribe, it barely fails the nickel test. The nickel will fall when I start the machine but can balance it while it is on but only after using my surgically steady hands. Also I placed a metal ruler edge against the top side edge of the upper door. My guess is the vibration or wobble is about 1/16 of an inch. Also I notice when the belt is on and running, the blade moves from front to back about 1/32 -1/16 of an inch. That is also visually apparent watching the blade track on the wheels

[Bill Adamsen]

Rick ... you got a great deal. That's a complete, and great little machine with many of the bells and whistles that I wish I had on my unit.

[Rick Pinzon]

Thanks. Just trying to get the blade to stop moving front and back

[Van Huskey]

Is this a new blade or one that came with the saw and is it the only blade you have now? That sort of motion is often connected to a blade that has a weld that isn't perfectly straight. Inspect the weld and you may want to think about trying another blade since you probably want to get some different types of blades soon anyway. How wide is the current blade?

[Rick Pinzon]

When I got the saw, it had an old 1/4 in belt. I replaced it with a new 1/4 in belt that he included with the sale as well as a couple more used belts. I will take a close look at the weld and see if I notice anything

[Van Huskey]

You want to see if the back of the blade is flat across the weld. Plus, you can try some of the other blades to see if the movement decreases or stays the same.

[Rick Pinzon]

The blade looks good but now I have another issue. It looks like the supposed "new" tires are not so new. I found a broken piece and when I picked it up, it crumbled. What type of tires should I buy and from where?


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[Charles Taylor]

The blade looks good but now I have another issue. It looks like the supposed "new" tires are not so new. I found a broken piece and when I picked it up, it crumbled. What type of tires should I buy and from where?

Not long ago, I replaced the tires on my bandsaw (a different make and model) with Carter Ultra Blue urethane tires. Several sources carry them, but I got mine from Highland Woodworking.

[John Lanciani]

If you want easy go with urethane form Sulphur Grove; https://sgtool.com/

If you want long lasting go with rubber from Woodworkers Tool works; https://www.woodworkerstoolworks.com/

There are pros and cons to both, but I've come to prefer glued on rubber over urethane. (I've restored and re-sold over a dozen 14" Deltas in recent years)

[Van Huskey]

That may well be most if not all of your problem and they certainly were new at some point. From the sellers perspective they may have been new 10+ years ago and he hasn't used it in that time so they are still new.

On larger saws I prefer rubber but honestly I don't find the expense and trouble worth the effort on a 14" saw unless you want it to look age correct. I have urethane with over 10 years on them and they are still fine, can't say how long they will last beyond that though. I also prefer the Sulpher Grove tires to Carter mainly due to the fact they are cheaper and you are getting essentially the same thing just orange instead of blue.

[michael langman]

Rick, I just bought a Rockwell 14" saw like yours but not as many accessories, and I checked the 2 wheels for alignment and the top wheel was not lined up with the bottom wheel.
I removed the top wheel and added 2 washers for 3/8 inch bolts behind the wheel, and put the wheel back on.
I drilled out the inside holes on the washers big enough to fit over the shaft that runs through the wheel.
Coplanar wheels will help the blade track better.

[Rick Pinzon]

Thank you Michael. I need to fix my tire first. Take a look at the photo. The tire crumbled in my hand a you can see in the photo. :) I just ordered a set of urethane tires as recommened by Van, Charles and John.
I ordered 14in x1in tires for $30 on Amazon sold by Peachtree
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[Rick Pinzon]

Thanks Van. I ordered a set of Urethane Tires from Amazon/Peachtree

[Van Huskey]

Thank you Michael. I need to fix my tire first. Take a look at the photo. The tire crumbled in my hand a you can see in the photo. :) I just ordered a set of urethane tires as recommened by Van, Charles and John.
I ordered 14in x1in tires for $30 on Amazon sold by Peachtree


Good deal, don't let this demoralize you tires are wear items so it is not unusual to have to replace them on a used saw, especially one that may have set for long periods in non-climate controlled conditions and unused. The good thing now is you will likely be set on tires for over a decade!

[Rick Pinzon]

Yeah, I realize it's a wear item. Still feeling good about the purchase. In 2 days I will get the tires and see if I still have the blade wobble. I will keep you posted. Thanks for your help Van.

[Art Mann]

Let us know when you try the new tires.

[Rick Pinzon]

Let us know when you try the new tires.

I will definitely let you know.

[Van Huskey]

I want to extend a sincere thank you to you Rick. I appreciate when someone (especially people new to the forum) actually monitor and participate in your own thread. So often people post a question and many people spend lots of time trying to answer but never hear back from the OP. I know it seems like a silly little thing but we all like to know what people actually bought and how they like what they did buy.

[Myk Rian]

Not everyone knows about Delta's new owners and their business decisions. I think it is important for anyone who is contemplating buying used (or new!) Delta equipment to realize that the company doesn't support their older equipment.

Does Delta support anything?
There will always be parts available for the old iron. Enjoy your saw.

[Rick Pinzon]

It's my pleasure. It's awesome that people actually respond to the questions. I bought the saw because I want to make some curved trim on the bottom of a dresser that I am making for my daughter (Photo attached). It the end, it will be white and and of course have all the faces in the front. I am learning as I go courtesy of all the online content available out there. The bandsaw will be used for other projects but I have to start somewhere. My first cabinet build was a utility sink for my garage(photo below). I wanted something tall so I would not have to lean over to use the sink like a traditional plastic home depot utility sink. The sink is plenty large to handle messy clean up like paint or grill grates. I also made a custom concrete counter top. It turned out very functional and I think it looks pretty good too...lol
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[Bill ThompsonNM]

Nice cabinet and countertop!

[Rick Pinzon]

Thank you!

[Rick Pinzon]

update: new Urethane wheels have been installed. I have a new 1/4 in blade and the front am back movement has been Reduced to maybe only 1/64 of an inch. I then installed a new 3/8 blade and the forward and back movement is even less then 1/64 of an inch. I guess this is as good as it can get considering it's a 20 yr old delta. I have no prior experience with bandsaws so I really have nothing to compare it to. To the naked eye I really to do not see the front and back movement at all with either blade now. I notice it only because I am putting a straight edge to the back of the blade and letting it be pushed back as I manually rotate the wheel. I then took a measurement.

[Van Huskey]

First, nice projects BTW, second you are good with the blade now. If you don't see pulsing by eye when running you are good to go.

[Rick Pinzon]

First, nice projects BTW, second you are good with the blade now. If you don't see pulsing by eye when running you are good to go.

Thank you for you help Van!