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Daniel Norman
01-13-2017, 1:18 PM
I have been following the forum and based on the information here I requested a quote from Ray Fine. I would appreciate any feedback regarding the import process and and machine configuration.
I have not decided on the final size yet, I like the ability to handle a 4' sheet.
I am unsure of a 100w or a 130w tube? I anticipate working primarily with wood and would like to be able to both engrave and cut.
I have asked if the power supply is capable of running a 130w tube in case I want to upgrade in the future.
I have asked about additional lenses and nozzles as I think it would be easiest to order them at the same time as the machine.
I do not know what additional costs to anticipate when the machine is landed in Vancouver.
I appreciate any feedback.
Dan


1.RF-1390-CO2-100W
2.RF-9060-CO2-100W

Machine mainly configuration as following:
EFR ZS-1450 100w laser tube with 10000 hours life time;
RD Controller with RDworks software;
D20mm/FCL63.5MM lens;
Auto Focus;
a powered Motorized in height adjustable working table +steel honeycomb table+aluminum knife table;
CW5200 water chiller;
red-dot pointer;
pass through doors;
a Ammeter ;
550W Centrifugal exhaust fan;
Air compressor

John Noell
01-13-2017, 2:50 PM
So far, I have found my 100 watt tube to be fine for engraving. (I went for 100 instead of 80 this time because I cut a lot of keytags and the wood I use is a bit tough to get thru when using an 80.) If you are engraving things like Flexibrass, a 130 watt might not dial down far enough. I've been told that it is best to use a power supply designed for a specific power, so it might not be ideal to try to use one power supply for both 130 and 100 watt tubes. I got quotes from various manufacturers but went with Longtai (largely because Yarde Feng is there.) I am quite pleased with my Longtai machine and the z-depth is fantastic. After using autofocus on my Epilog, I decided AF was not worth the hassles.

Erik Goetheer
01-13-2017, 2:56 PM
Hi Daniel, regarding the import process, I just wrote this: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?236189-Importing-laser-from-China-did-you-get-a-customs-broker&p=2645970#post2645970 I'm not aware of specific Canadian regulation, but it sure can't get much more difficult, IMO.

Additional costs in this way will be custom duties and VAT only (but custom duties is deductable for me and VAT will be refunded from the Dutch fiscal authorities as it is non-EU import).

BTW, I just bought a 80W RF-9060 from them recently, it's still on its way to me.

Additional stuff that you can get at not too high prices are:

- extra lens sizes, including corresponding nozzles with air fitting and lens tubes for easy lens change (cheap addition, thanks goes to Dave Somers for this good idea)
- spare lenses and mirrors of course
- maybe a rotary device. They have 3 types
- Air pressure regulator at the nozzle (I believe is standard, but always good to think of)
- spare red dot pointers
- spare stepper motor and motor drive
- spare XYZ belts

They have 3 colour schemes for their laser machines and because almost every Chinese laser seems to be blue/grey or red/grey, I opted for the third combination, ...

Edit: I just read the post from John, Longtai is sure also a good option. I went from 8 companies to these two and Blanca won ... but actually they were equally good, technically and pricewise, I just had a little preference for the looks of the Rayfine machine.

Brian Book
01-13-2017, 4:44 PM
Hi Daniel ... I have also ordered a Ray Fine Laser .... 600 x 400 80w ... I just don't have room for a bigger one :(

I paid $75.00 U.S. for a Broker to get my unit to Toronto and I pick it up there ....I believe it has already landed in Vancouver and then they are Trucking it to Toronto ... I pick it up January 27th according to Blanca I have to pay for Customs Inspection and duties which I'm lead to believe is about $200.00 Cnd

I spoke to Blanca about a Smaller Lens for engraving my pens and she suggested I try what I have now before I decide.

I did opt for the Rotary for Pens and such.

Hope this helps somewhat .... I can have more info when the process is all complete :)

Brian

John Lifer
01-13-2017, 8:32 PM
From my experience, yes limited, I would opt for no more than the 100 watt laser tube. My 80 doesn't fire well below 20% power and I engrave pictures onto wood at 20 to 25%. It will engrave pretty deep at 25 percent. Now I've only cut 5mm ply or less, and I go to 50 % at about 10mm/s to go thru that cleanly ( lot of hard glue in the stuff I have.).
You go to 100 watts,and the engraving a low levels will disappear.


I bought a set of belts, (cheap) and 38 and 63mm lens with a set of spare. And a set of spare mirrors. All were pretty cheap.
I did get a rotary, ray is cheaper than eBay on that and for that matter the chiller. I didn't buy a motor, or power supply as spare.
Btw, the autofocus is OK, but I don't use much, takes longer to access and allow it to work than manual.
Oh, my short one has a screw regulator, but the 63mm doesn't. I find it doesn't matter.
I'm changing out my Rd dot pointer as the factory is pretty crap setup.

Oh, I did get the 1390 with the passthrough. The machine is heavy! Both parts about the same weigh, 350 pounds or so. I did mine with little help, only me, my wife and daughter who only stabilized things and my tractor and a hoist. I would suggest at least a couple of three guys and you can get moved easily.

Good luck!
John

Daniel Norman
01-14-2017, 10:14 AM
Thanks John, it sounds like it can be a chance to get good engraving results with anything larger than a 100w tube and most people do no get much use from the auto focus.

Daniel Norman
01-14-2017, 10:25 AM
Hi Eric, I had considered the lenses but not thought about consumables. That starts an interesting question there are lots of discussions about tube life but very little about the life of mirrors lenses belts and motors and how easy is it to get replacement parts? My chop saw needs a new belt about every 2 years so I keep a spare but I only replaced the planner belt after 10 and it was a 2 day delivery. I still have more questions than answers?
Where can I find the colour options? I have found the website very limited.

Daniel Norman
01-14-2017, 10:42 AM
Hi Brian,
I am lucky that I do have space. I was considering the 900 x 600 but it is only about $700.00 Canadian to go up to the 1300 x 900.
I am very interested in your experience with shipping and customs and if there are Canadian Taxes and Fees. The email from Blanca clearly states:
"The shipping freight do not include CUSTOMS DUTIES,CUSTOMS INSPECTION FEE AND OTHER GOVERMENT CHARGES."
Did there shipping agent arrange transportation to Toronto? I am on Vancouver Island and would prefer to pay for delivery than pick up a machine this size.
I have asked about rotary options, the website does not show many options.
Please keep in touch when the machine arrives I am very interested in your experience.

Bill George
01-14-2017, 10:50 AM
Remember delivery is usually a lift gate to put your item on the ground. You need to consider how your going to move a very large box from the street to your shop. My suggestion if your getting something that big, rent a fork truck.

Daniel Norman
01-14-2017, 11:01 AM
Hi John, I am a bit nervous about the weight. A truck should be able to get it outside the shop but there will be about 10' of grass still to go. I am hopping that I can lay down some sheet stock and use a pallet jack to get it inside? Any thoughts?
It sounds like 100w is the max for decent engraving success and the cutting of thick material is best left to other tools.
I like the idea of having spare belts and mirrors what kind of life are you getting from yours?
Sounds like auto focus is not much benefit.

Daniel Norman
01-14-2017, 11:08 AM
Hi Bill, That is one of my big fears. A truck should be able to place it outside the door of my shop but that is grass. I am thinking that if I lay down sheet stock I will be able to use a pallet jack to get it inside?

Bill George
01-14-2017, 11:09 AM
Auto focus, had it and never used.

The delivery truck usually will stop at the street and its yours after he unloads. When I did get my huge crate with an off road vehicle toy inside he offered to use his pallet jack to put it in my driveway next to any garage or shop I wanted, but would not go inside. Your driver and trucking company may vary. Best way is to find out what trucking company its coming in on and then go down to the terminal and talk to the dispatcher and ask him how its going be delivered. At times I have just went down with my flat bed trailer and had them load on it. Then you can back your trailer into where its going and slide it off. Rollers made from pipe or furniture/ moving dollies from that point.

But my off road toy crate was so big, it would not have even fit on my trailer!! If its sounds like I buy a lot of heavy stuff.... yes I have a home machine shop and lots of other interests.

Erik Goetheer
01-14-2017, 11:59 AM
Belts are very cheap and there always can happen something with them. My advice is to have a spare set. And other spares also, for a few hundred bucks extra, about 10% of the machine value, you will have a good set of spares that can prevent your machine from a production stop because of a breakdown, and waiting for needed replacemant parts. Will cost you much more. I even included a spare tube power supply in my order, better safe than sorry.

choice of colors:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f307/ckong65/Laser%20Engraver/colors%20%20available_zpsgblxvgxd.jpg (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/ckong65/media/Laser%20Engraver/colors%20%20available_zpsgblxvgxd.jpg.html)

Bill George
01-14-2017, 12:42 PM
The problem with a spare tube and please look it up on here, is the gas inside the tube tends to slowly leak over a period of months or years and when you need it, not only is the warranty gone so is the gas and the tube is dead.

David Somers
01-14-2017, 2:37 PM
Bill...I think Erik was just referring to having ordered a spare power supply, not a spare tube. But your point is certainly an important one.

Daniel.....if you can do the larger sized bed it does make handling sheet stock easier, and it can help with resale later on if you want to get rid of the machine. In my case, I ordered the 900x600 simply because of my shop space. The larger machine was just more than I was willing to deal with in my garage/shop along with everything else I have in there. In terms of shop space I am glad I took this tack. In terms of material handling it would have been easier to have the larger size, but not a huge deal. In terms of resale, having watched prices for Chinese lasers of similar size being sold used the larger size does seem to sell for a higher price in this area. YMMV of course.

If you dont get the 1.5" lens now but decide to later, remember that you will not be using the same nose cone with it that you use on the longer lenses. It has such a short focal length that you need a short, squat cone to accommodate it. And even then, you have little clearance between the bottom of the cone and your materials. Like others have mentioned, I chose to have a dedicated lens tube/cone for each size lens I have. It was simple laziness. It was easier for me to swap a tube with the cone and lens already inside, clean and mounted, than to remove a tube, take it apart, swap the lens and perhaps the cone, and then put it back in. The cost to do this is minimal. I also have ordered a long lens tube for use with my 2" and larger lenses. But keep in mind that I probably do more small runs and one off work than most of us would consider doing. The idea is that rather than relying on a long focal length to get into deep spaces that I want to cut or engrave (like engraving or doing inlay on a deep bowl) I would use the longer lens tube so I could reach down into deep spaces without having to sacrifice the small dot size of my 2" lens.) Of course, you do need to make sure that your laser will not scoot back to its 0,0 position after completing the job. Bummer when it rams into your bowl sides. But that is a matter of some simple changes in RDWorks for that one job to avoid the issue. I have a little cheat sheet I use for that and just make sure I follow it when I work in a deep space. I am a woodturner so I probably do this more than most folks would with a laser. Most of us work on flat stock of some sort and this is not an issue.

Lastly, I have been very pleased with Ray Fine, their machines, and with Blanca as my sales person/technical helper. I cant speak directly about Longtai, but I have heard very good things about their work as well.

And take your time. Dig, ask questions, talk to customers, examine your needs and future proof for them if you can. And have fun!!! They are a fun tool.

John Lifer
01-14-2017, 4:11 PM
Daniel, If you don't tell Blanca Color, you get a baby blue/ivory in the 1390 :-) It looks ok, but would have preferred the red/ivory myself.
And yes, even if you don't think you will use the extra belts for a while, if one breaks, it shuts you down. Table belt and the top belts were only $80 cheap insurance.
The rotary, (she offers three types, the Chuck, the hot dog roller and a wheel roller, (I got the wheel roller similar to an Epilog type but cheaper)) are only $200 and well worth getting even if you don't think you'll use one.
I do use the 63mm lens more than the 40mm lens. But that's just me. I'd get at least those two. Cheaper now, there is no extra shipping costs.

My Shipping container was 58" x 48" x 46" high including the 4" in height of the metal base used in place of pallet. And it has shipping weight of 1100 pounds.
I have a 400 ft drive, and the trucker couldn't back into my drive as it has sharp turn at street. And he was pulling a 47' trailer. Make sure you tell shipping broker to deliver in local truck if your location is tight.
The driver didn't really want to, but I got him to roll the pallet down to my garage. used a small three wheel pallet jack. I then lifted and placed on four - four wheel furniture movers from Harbor Freight. Best thing since sliced bread for moving stuff.
On cement, I could push the box my hand with little effort. I then moved across about 150 feet of grass/dirt with my small tractor. Pushing mainly. Very hard ground at that time. Had difficulty the last 40 feet as was uneven and wet area. But got it moved. I did go and get three sheets of 3/8" cheap ply. You need 3/4" ply to successfully roll across. Both the small wheels of the furniture movers and for sure the 4 large wheels of the machine itself went right through the thin stuff. If I had only the distance you have, that's what I'd do. Three sheets, spans 12' side to side. Easy rolling with furniture movers. Or remove from the crate and roll on it's own wheels. either way!

The two parts of the 1390 are attached with 6ft (barely, more like 65") plastic cable housing. There is enough room to pick up top, move in through doorway and then turn and move the base through also. Both sections are about the same weight as I said earlier.
If you want some pictures of my machine, crate, and in pieces, I can send them to you, just PM me your email.
Keep asking questions, that's what we're here for!
John

Daniel Norman
01-16-2017, 9:30 AM
Hi Bill, Thanks for the feedback. My CNC is 4’x8’ and while most of what I do does not take advantage of the size but it make some this possible that I could not do otherwise. From the feedback I am hearing it sounds like I will include:, Multiple lenses and the corresponding nose cones, Spare Mirrors, spare belts. I think I will hold of on power suply and motors.

Daniel Norman
01-17-2017, 10:03 AM
Thank you to everyone for the responses. Blanca sent me the name of their shipping agent in Vancouver and I have reached out to them to confirm that there are no surprise costs and to receive a quote on delivery to my address. My current thinking is to add lenses with nozzles, spare mirrors, spare belts and any colour but blue. I am still nervous about ordering from overseas but the feedback here has made me more comfortable. I am not the first to do the.

Erik Goetheer
01-17-2017, 2:42 PM
Bill...I think Erik was just referring to having ordered a spare power supply, not a spare tube.

Indeed. :)

Daniel Norman
02-07-2017, 3:27 PM
Well China is back from the holiday and I am trying to work out the final details:
I have decides on the RF-1390
I am going to order 3 lenses and nozzles.
I am going to order spare belts
I am going to order a Rotary Attachment.
My outstanding questions remain:
100w Vs 130w My instinct is for MORE POWER but I understand that over 100w the engraving is compromised. Thoughts?
What Rotary Attachment to buy? I will search the forum some more but I do not know the advantages and disadvantages of each? I am leaning to the "Epiloge" style with two sets of wheels with adjustable hight. Looks like the greatest flexibility but I am not sure? I think I would like to do glassware and turned wood items like rolling pins or jewelry.
Canadian Duties? I learned I will pay %5 GST but I do not know what the Duty is?

Thank everyone for their responses. I would never feel comfortable with an offshore purchase without the information I have received from members of this forum.

Cheers,
Dan




I have been following the forum and based on the information here I requested a quote from Ray Fine. I would appreciate any feedback regarding the import process and and machine configuration.
I have not decided on the final size yet, I like the ability to handle a 4' sheet.
I am unsure of a 100w or a 130w tube? I anticipate working primarily with wood and would like to be able to both engrave and cut.
I have asked if the power supply is capable of running a 130w tube in case I want to upgrade in the future.
I have asked about additional lenses and nozzles as I think it would be easiest to order them at the same time as the machine.
I do not know what additional costs to anticipate when the machine is landed in Vancouver.
I appreciate any feedback.
Dan


1.RF-1390-CO2-100W
2.RF-9060-CO2-100W

Machine mainly configuration as following:
EFR ZS-1450 100w laser tube with 10000 hours life time;
RD Controller with RDworks software;
D20mm/FCL63.5MM lens;
Auto Focus;
a powered Motorized in height adjustable working table +steel honeycomb table+aluminum knife table;
CW5200 water chiller;
red-dot pointer;
pass through doors;
a Ammeter ;
550W Centrifugal exhaust fan;
Air compressor

David Somers
02-07-2017, 3:42 PM
Dan,

As a rule, 80watt is typically the sweet point between cutting and engraving. If you want to engrave but your prime work is cutting go to 100, maybe even 120 but expect less control over your engraving. The main issue being that you can't tone down the power enough on the higher wattage tubes to engrave on delicate materials that don't take much to get a good engraving. If you want to cut but your main focus is engraving stay with the 80. Blanca can confirm this for you. I would get a spare lens for each focal length you have coming. I would also add a spare mirror set to your order. Don't bother ordering a spare CO2 tube.

As for the rotary. For my needs I am better served with a chuck style rotary. You sound like the roller style might have more application. They are not expensive though, and ordering 1 of each will have no impact on your shipping costs, and minimal effect on your importing fees. So if you have doubts, perhaps one of each?

Gotta run.....hope that helps!! And hope you love the machine!!! Say hey to Blanca for me!

Dave



I am not sure I would fuss with auto focus at all. I haven't heard from anyone who thought much of it after using it. The process of focusing a laser is simple with a spacer. They will provide you with a spacer for the 2" lens you are getting. If you have other focal length lenses you will need to make your own spacer. Do a search in the forum on something called a ramp test. It will show you how to determine the focal point distance beneath your lens cone so you can cut your own spacer.

I am in Seattle so I am afraid I can't speak for Canadian Customs fees and duties. Some of our folks north of the border will need to speak up to help you. A number in Canada have recently bought Ray Fine machines.

John Lifer
02-07-2017, 4:54 PM
I didn't go back to my prior posts, I might have mentioned this before, but my 80w identical machine otherwise struggles to engrave at low power.
I've been working on trying to make an engraved photo on canvas. Just cutting thru the paint on top. So most settings should be 2-300mm/s and 10-20% power. 400mm/s doesn't work. Really would love to run at 8-10%, but laser just doesn't fire at below 10%, 11-12% is my minimum consistently firing.

If you are wanting to lightly engrave anything, 100w would be total max. 130w would probably not get down anywhere low enough. It really isn't 100% linear, but 10% of 80w should be about 8w. 10% of 130w is 13w over 50% more power. A lot of difference. Now if you are mainly cutting thick stuff, get the 130W.

I guess what I'm saying is more isn't always better with these lasers. You CAN run most things slower and it will cut the thicker items. But there is a lower threshold that you just can't get to with a higher power laser. YOU have to determine that balance. It might be you need two lasers! And I'm not kidding!

David Somers
02-07-2017, 6:00 PM
Daniel,

To carry John Lifer's thought further, you can ask Blanca about a 2 tube laser. Sometimes people do this with 2 identical tubes to speed work. Sometimes they have 2 different wattage tubes that each might focus more on one important aspect of your work. Fast cutting versus fine engraving. Compare this against the cost of 2 separate lasers. Either approach might give you a few more options to ponder.

Also....another bit of advice for you once you get any Chinese laser in.
When you get it, definitely make sure it is functioning so you can get any warrantee issues dealt with. Once you know it is working take some time to go over the machine carefully. Open everything, look and poke and ask questions of Blanca when you don't understand. She is good about helping. Just be patient with the day and time and holiday differences, as you already know.

Then, go over and really do a careful alignment. Start with the laser tube and work out through each mirror to the lens and be sure all is carefully aligned. There are documents here that can help you. Or there are videos on the web you can refer to.

Once that is done, work on the table. Remove the honeycomb. Put your 2" lens tube in once corner of the laser directly over the first aluminum slat. Adjust your focus using the focusing spacer so it is focused on the top of that slat. Then don't change the focus of the tube again. Move the lens tube to the next slat and use the spacer to see if it is in focus on that slat. If not, use the adjustment screw beneath the slat to bring it into focus. Do this for each slat, front and back. Then repeat this to be sure you are on the money. You are insuring your working surface is parallel to the plane of your gantry and you want it to be on the money. Once you are done, put the honeycomb back in place and check each corner with the spacer to be sure it is on the same plane as the gantry. It should be, but just be safe and check. If it isn't, go back and recheck your slats. If they are all OK look at the honeycomb and see if there is an issue with it. If yes, do what is needed to correct it. Spacers? Corrected a warp?, etc. It should be OK though. Check to be sure though.

Lastly, for me, with a woodworking background, I am a bit anal (OK....obsessive compulsive?? he he ho ho ha ha!) about things being well aligned and anything I do being easily replicated at a later time. With that in mind I first fixed my honeycomb in place so it cant wander around as it is raised and lowered, and I can replace it exactly where it came from when I remove it for cleaning or to use the slat table. I put it where I wanted it, used some tape and silly putty to hold it there temporarily, and then drilled through the honeycomb frame into the metal table of the slate table. Then I tapped the holes in the slate table frame so I could drop a bolt through the hole in the honeycomb, and then screw it down into the slate table frame. Once I had that done and my honeycomb was locked down and replaceable where it came from when removed, I used some in expensive SS rulers to create guide bars on the edges of the honeycomb that I used. Basically one side, and the back edge. First I put masking tape down where I wanted the edge of the guide to be and then ran the laser over that lightly to mark where the edge should be. It is obviously aligned with the gantry axis. Then I used double side tape to place the ruler with its working edge running along that mark. Once that was down I drilled through it at the ends and screwed it in place so it cant wander over time if the tape failed, which it would eventually. I did the same thing with the other edge I wanted a guide bar on. My anal retentive nature now being assuaged I now headed in and enjoyed a nice whiskey, neat. This works really well for me. Enough for me that a few times I have cut a bunch of things from some ply and mistakenly removed the ply before checking that I had actually cut all the way through on all pieces. When I found I hadn't I was able to put the ply back in place exactly where it came from, rerun the job and finish the cuts.

Hope that helps!

Dave

Doug Fisher
02-07-2017, 8:06 PM
>>I am leaning to the "Epiloge" style with two sets of wheels with adjustable hight.<<

I am just learning rotary, so take my opinion for what it is worth. Each style has its pluses and minuses, but if I were doing it over again I would first buy the type you are considering with the rubber trimmed wheels (not the long bare metal "hot dog roller" type) and then buy the chuck type later if I really had enough need for it. If you are going to buy a chuck type, the style and size of the pointer design that holds/supports the end opposite of the chuck is really important. The interchangeable system of various sized rubber cones and grips found on the more costly laser system really adds versatility.

Daniel Norman
02-08-2017, 9:35 AM
Hi Dave, I want to be sure I understand. I think it was at your recommendation I have included nozzles for each lens and you are suggesting I order 2 lenses and one nozzle for each focal length. This seems logical and cheep insurance.
I think you are correct about ordering two rotary attachments for $200.00 I will have options.
Auto focus was included in my original quote. I had not asked for it and I will have to check how much it adds to the price.
Thanks again, Dan

Dan,

I would get a spare lens for each focal length you have coming. I would also add a spare mirror set to your order. Don't bother ordering a spare CO2 tube.

As for the rotary. For my needs I am better served with a chuck style rotary. You sound like the roller style might have more application. They are not expensive though, and ordering 1 of each will have no impact on your shipping costs, and minimal effect on your importing fees. So if you have doubts, perhaps one of each?

Gotta run.....hope that helps!! And hope you love the machine!!! Say hey to Blanca for me!

I am not sure I would fuss with auto focus at all. I haven't heard from anyone who thought much of it after using it

Daniel Norman
02-08-2017, 9:46 AM
Hi John, I think laser power has been the hardest decision after deciding to import myself. I have the space so the bigger footprint was a easy choice. When I bought my CNC (shopBot) I was not sure how I would use it I just saw the potential. I know that the Laser will provide me great flexibility but what I will do most remains to be seen. I want the flexibility to both cut and engrave? I wonder if the 100w power supply is to much for the 80w tube if I desire to change later? I will email Blanca.
Thanks again,
Dan



I didn't go back to my prior posts, I might have mentioned this before, but my 80w identical machine otherwise struggles to engrave at low power.
I've been working on trying to make an engraved photo on canvas. Just cutting thru the paint on top. So most settings should be 2-300mm/s and 10-20% power. 400mm/s doesn't work. Really would love to run at 8-10%, but laser just doesn't fire at below 10%, 11-12% is my minimum consistently firing.

If you are wanting to lightly engrave anything, 100w would be total max. 130w would probably not get down anywhere low enough. It really isn't 100% linear, but 10% of 80w should be about 8w. 10% of 130w is 13w over 50% more power. A lot of difference. Now if you are mainly cutting thick stuff, get the 130W.

I guess what I'm saying is more isn't always better with these lasers. You CAN run most things slower and it will cut the thicker items. But there is a lower threshold that you just can't get to with a higher power laser. YOU have to determine that balance. It might be you need two lasers! And I'm not kidding!

Daniel Norman
02-08-2017, 10:00 AM
Hi Dave you raised several interesting points:
Two Tubes? Interesting I will have to consider this. I did not realize it was an option.
Warranty, It sounds like you have some experience. I have had trouble with Canadian Companies and warranty I assumed I would be on my own when dealing with China.
Set up is another great fear, not knowing what type of documentation will come.
I also come from a wood working and steel fabrication background so jigs are just part of how I work. The not needing to clamp as securely will take some getting use to.
Thanks again, Dan

Daniel,

To carry John Lifer's thought further, you can ask Blanca about a 2 tube laser. Sometimes people do this with 2 identical tubes to speed work. Sometimes they have 2 different wattage tubes that each might focus more on one important aspect of your work. Fast cutting versus fine engraving. Compare this against the cost of 2 separate lasers. Either approach might give you a few more options to ponder.

Also....another bit of advice for you once you get any Chinese laser in.
When you get it, definitely make sure it is functioning so you can get any warrantee issues dealt with. Once you know it is working take some time to go over the machine carefully. Open everything, look and poke and ask questions of Blanca when you don't understand. She is good about helping. Just be patient with the day and time and holiday differences, as you already know.

Then, go over and really do a careful alignment. Start with the laser tube and work out through each mirror to the lens and be sure all is carefully aligned. There are documents here that can help you. Or there are videos on the web you can refer to.

Once that is done, work on the table. Remove the honeycomb. Put your 2" lens tube in once corner of the laser directly over the first aluminum slat. Adjust your focus using the focusing spacer so it is focused on the top of that slat. Then don't change the focus of the tube again. Move the lens tube to the next slat and use the spacer to see if it is in focus on that slat. If not, use the adjustment screw beneath the slat to bring it into focus. Do this for each slat, front and back. Then repeat this to be sure you are on the money. You are insuring your working surface is parallel to the plane of your gantry and you want it to be on the money. Once you are done, put the honeycomb back in place and check each corner with the spacer to be sure it is on the same plane as the gantry. It should be, but just be safe and check. If it isn't, go back and recheck your slats. If they are all OK look at the honeycomb and see if there is an issue with it. If yes, do what is needed to correct it. Spacers? Corrected a warp?, etc. It should be OK though. Check to be sure though.

Lastly, for me, with a woodworking background, I am a bit anal (OK....obsessive compulsive?? he he ho ho ha ha!) about things being well aligned and anything I do being easily replicated at a later time. With that in mind I first fixed my honeycomb in place so it cant wander around as it is raised and lowered, and I can replace it exactly where it came from when I remove it for cleaning or to use the slat table. I put it where I wanted it, used some tape and silly putty to hold it there temporarily, and then drilled through the honeycomb frame into the metal table of the slate table. Then I tapped the holes in the slate table frame so I could drop a bolt through the hole in the honeycomb, and then screw it down into the slate table frame. Once I had that done and my honeycomb was locked down and replaceable where it came from when removed, I used some in expensive SS rulers to create guide bars on the edges of the honeycomb that I used. Basically one side, and the back edge. First I put masking tape down where I wanted the edge of the guide to be and then ran the laser over that lightly to mark where the edge should be. It is obviously aligned with the gantry axis. Then I used double side tape to place the ruler with its working edge running along that mark. Once that was down I drilled through it at the ends and screwed it in place so it cant wander over time if the tape failed, which it would eventually. I did the same thing with the other edge I wanted a guide bar on. My anal retentive nature now being assuaged I now headed in and enjoyed a nice whiskey, neat. This works really well for me. Enough for me that a few times I have cut a bunch of things from some ply and mistakenly removed the ply before checking that I had actually cut all the way through on all pieces. When I found I hadn't I was able to put the ply back in place exactly where it came from, rerun the job and finish the cuts.

Hope that helps!

Dave

Daniel Norman
02-08-2017, 10:05 AM
Hi Doug, Thanks for the thoughts. I think I am going to take Davids advice and buy two at the beginning when I am already paying shipping. I will have to investigate the options with the chucks
Dan

>>I am leaning to the "Epiloge" style with two sets of wheels with adjustable hight.<<

I am just learning rotary, so take my opinion for what it is worth. Each style has its pluses and minuses, but if I were doing it over again I would first buy the type you are considering with the rubber trimmed wheels (not the long bare metal "hot dog roller" type) and then buy the chuck type later if I really had enough need for it. If you are going to buy a chuck type, the style and size of the pointer design that holds/supports the end opposite of the chuck is really important. The interchangeable system of various sized rubber cones and grips found on the more costly laser system really adds versatility.

John Lifer
02-08-2017, 2:48 PM
I'm SO sorry, that I didn't mention the Rotary, If you go this route, it works fine. But I had Mucho Issue with figuring out the settings.
I tried finding info on the web, not a lot of folks use or at least have posted about this type (or rotaries for that matter).
I found BOSS uses a similar rotary. (and their own version of RDWORKS software)
And both a youtube video on setting it up and their manual states to put in a number in the circle pulse input which varied depending on the model of their rotary.
And to leave the diameter alone.
RDworks manual says take pulse of Y axis and multiply by ratio of the pulleys. Which is right? (neither)
Well, I figured out the circle pulse and the ratio and entered calculated # and then would put in the diameter of the item. Wrong! was actually close, but not right.
It is some sort of ratio between the circle pulse ratio and diameter. And I've engraved a 4" diameter item and a 1" diameter item and it goes 360 degrees around....
With a ratio of 113. Don't understand it, but it works..... I've got mine set up with 113 as circle pulse and 1 as diameter. Oh well.

I would like a rotary with the chuck, but I'll get one of those later. For most items this thing works well.

David Somers
02-08-2017, 4:29 PM
Hey Daniel!

I found Blanca and Ray Fine were easy to work with for warranty and general initial questions. My laser was fine, but I did have an issue with the CNC and they stuck with it until it was resolved. Just keep in mind the repair person from Liaocheng is NOT likely to show up at your door. Stuff is mostly dealt with by email or skype. I chose to work by email because I was not in a rush. At least with Ray Fine and Blanca you are not on your own. Just dealing with folks who are a longgggggg way away and for whom English is definitely a second language. Patience and understanding is key on both your parts.

Kev Williams
02-08-2017, 5:11 PM
Sorry I haven't had time to read thru all this (it's a lot!) but I just want to throw my 2 cents in here about ONE subject:

If the extra lenses you're going to buy cost more than $25, save that money and buy the $20-$25 lenses that are all over E-bay. I've bought three 2", two 3" and one 4" lens, at different times from different sellers, they're pretty much equal to the lenses that will come with the machine. And just last week I tested my well-used and scuffed up 3" lens in my 40w Synrad LS900, and the engraving results I got with it were much better than I expected. There's simply no reason to spend more than $25 for a Chinese lens.. :)

David Somers
02-08-2017, 6:46 PM
Hey Kev,

$25 is the most expensive lens I have ever gotten from Ray Fine. And that was part of a larger order and the addition of the lens didn't affect the shipping at all. Since I have done well with them I tend to order from them for smaller items just to continue patronizing them in recognition of their good service all this time. Silly perhaps. But I tend to do that with most companies I work with here and abroad so long as the cost is not too far off.